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custom process - CAD

honor

Rough_Rock
Joined
Apr 3, 2014
Messages
65
Hi,
What is a typical process for creating a custom setting?
I am going with CAD and want a HW inspired baguette side setting for my cushion.
What should I be conveying to the jeweler-ERD? What should I expect from them? Do they always do a sketch before the first CAD?
Thank you for your help!
 
I think pictures speak most clearly about what you are trying to create. I sent inspiration pictures with the specific details I wanted circled, and I also sent some sketches I had done. I did not get any sketches back before the CADs. Chris and I emailed a few times about timeline, how many rounds of CADs were included, and how long to expect before the first set of CADs were completed.

I would make sure to explain the overall look you are going for - modern, vintage, antique repro, etc., if you plan to wear a band with it, what details are most important to you, how high you want the diamond to be set, how you want the claws finished (if any). ERD does great work but it's better to be more specific so there's less room for interpretation.
 
liaerfbv|1401800917|3685503 said:
I think pictures speak most clearly about what you are trying to create. I sent inspiration pictures with the specific details I wanted circled, and I also sent some sketches I had done. I did not get any sketches back before the CADs. Chris and I emailed a few times about timeline, how many rounds of CADs were included, and how long to expect before the first set of CADs were completed.

I would make sure to explain the overall look you are going for - modern, vintage, antique repro, etc., if you plan to wear a band with it, what details are most important to you, how high you want the diamond to be set, how you want the claws finished (if any). ERD does great work but it's better to be more specific so there's less room for interpretation.


My CAD experience with ERD was similar. No sketches. You need to stay organized and make sure your communications are clear (they aren't mind readers). I drew on the CAD images they sent me to indicate changes and referenced the drawings in a numbered list. Overall it's been a great experience.
 
Speaking from another industry, not jewelry: The sketching *is* done with CAD (computer aided drafting, computer aided design) because it's easy to save copies, make changes, save iterations of the design tweaks. You might do a pencil and paper sketch and send to the jeweler to kick off the process, but a designer isn't going to sketch in pencil and paper, as a general rule.
 
You can start with your sketches or several example pictures of what you want, pointing out in your email what you like and don't like about each design. ERD will create a CAD and both of you will review the design. Sometimes it is perfect right off the bat but it often times take several revisions, particularly if the design is more complex. The CAD is your "sketch"; changes are easily made on computer and it is drawn to scale. I use MS Paint to circle areas that I would like tweaked and I also type in a brief descriptive text to explain why it needs to be tweaked. The wax mould will be created based on the CAD and your ring will be made from the wax.
 
Chrono|1401813107|3685635 said:
You can start with your sketches or several example pictures of what you want, pointing out in your email what you like and don't like about each design. ERD will create a CAD and both of you will review the design. Sometimes it is perfect right off the bat but it often times take several revisions, particularly if the design is more complex. The CAD is your "sketch"; changes are easily made on computer and it is drawn to scale. I use MS Paint to circle areas that I would like tweaked and I also type in a brief descriptive text to explain why it needs to be tweaked. The wax mould will be created based on the CAD and your ring will be made from the wax.


thank you for your reply,
do they send a wax mold to you before they cast it?
 
Re: custom process - CAD - HW baguette seeting

thank you for all your thoughtful replies, very helpful!

The design is basic or so I think, I want a HW inspired tapered baguette side setting. My center stone is a slightly tall 2 ct chunky cushion.
Any thoughts about key words I should use?
Also as far as height is 8mm consider middle road/flattering height?
 
I do not know if ERD will send you the wax; they just went through the CAD until I approved the design. I find looking at wax moulds useless because everything is the same shade of yellowish green and is blobby/chunky without much detail. :oops: For me, the height would be dependent on the height of the diamond. If set too high, your stone is more likely to get knocked about and damaged, and get caught in clothing, scratch others, etc.
 
I've seen here that others have had their wax molds sent - I didn't ask for pics of the molds and it was never sent to me. I felt really confident in the proportions of my design though and there were no lingering issues or anxiety on my part.
 
Re: custom process - CAD - HW baguette seeting

honor|1401816218|3685682 said:
thank you for all your thoughtful replies, very helpful!

The design is basic or so I think, I want a HW inspired tapered baguette side setting. My center stone is a slightly tall 2 ct chunky cushion.
Any thoughts about key words I should use?
Also as far as height is 8mm consider middle road/flattering height?

Do you know what proportion baguettes you want? That would be helpful to include. Do you want claw prongs? If you look in the SMTB you can probably find a few great examples of rings you like and can send to ERD as examples.
 
Re: custom process - CAD - HW baguette seeting

liaerfbv|1401816789|3685686 said:
honor|1401816218|3685682 said:
thank you for all your thoughtful replies, very helpful!

The design is basic or so I think, I want a HW inspired tapered baguette side setting. My center stone is a slightly tall 2 ct chunky cushion.
Any thoughts about key words I should use?
Also as far as height is 8mm consider middle road/flattering height?

Do you know what proportion baguettes you want? That would be helpful to include. Do you want claw prongs? If you look in the SMTB you can probably find a few great examples of rings you like and can send to ERD as examples.


I like how the Henry Winston baguettes are a little fatter. I def want claw but not sure if I want double or split claw since that might overwhelm the stone. I am assuming, based on other threads, that ERD will send me images of my stone with a few different side stones and give me a choice between a few.
 
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