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Crowd sourcing: CAD assistance please?

ringo865

Ideal_Rock
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Hi PSers, I have started a pendant project with DK to recreate an antique piece for my tourmaline. (That DH got me for my birthday... last August!)

Here is the inspiration piece with a 13 carat citrine in two-tone gold with yellow prongs. I believe the diamonds are single cuts.
7DA178AC-33EC-4C4C-A283-EB0F9CDE070F.png B299C870-C3A0-4AC7-83F4-E103C20B57FF.png 1DAA93A8-3317-40E5-965C-1F628C72E8E4.png DA9A7DF1-F382-47EC-B0B4-0FB8DEE7765F.png upload_2019-6-10_7-50-33.png

My tourmaline is much smaller at 2.83 carats, so we have to scale the pendant down quite a bit. I initially liked the two-tone, but seeing my stone with white really makes it pop, so I asked for 14k palladium white gold. I also asked for single cut diamonds. My horrible mockups here.
01776CE1-112D-44CA-9453-F1BE491A71B3.png EEF48BCE-F4CC-422C-B4DC-F0DA9FAF630E.jpeg

He sent me a first set of CADs, which I attach here.

I told him i’d scrutinize the CAD and get back to him, but mentioned that would like to see the what the Greek key design (meander) (the top and bottom square curl thing) would look like in the side gallery where the circle triangle thing is now.
upload_2019-6-10_7-52-43.jpeg

He sent me these CADs showing that element in the side gallery.

He did say that diamonds will be added to the bail and that all the millllegrain will be added by hand when finishing.
 

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ringo865

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Continued cuz of photo limit.’

So, right off the bat, I know this: The bail is too gigantic. Although it is only 2 mm across, it seems really large compared yo the size of the pendant. Here is a line up of his CAD and the inspiration side by side lined up with grids.
5AAD6575-53A9-46B0-8A2A-0F0CAFA21811.jpeg

I also want the ring connecting the bail is NOT fixed to the pendant or to the bail, so that the pendant freely swings. I cannot tell from the CAD whether that is fixed or not.

Because my stone has clipped corners, he added triangle tab prongs in the corner. While I think that looks aesthetically pleasing, I notice that he did not add the little side prongs, like the inspiration piece. I don’t know whether they’d be necessary now that the stone would be held in place at the corners. I’m wondering whether that is something i really liked about the original, or if is more geometric without the side prongs.

The Greek key design looks kind of random/out of place just pasted in there like one, two, three. I looked on google to get an image of a line of them in a row. Connected. I don’t know if he can do it or if it would look better as he shows in his first rendition. Her are samples


Expert analysis requested! Thanks!!!
 

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ringo865

Ideal_Rock
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Bumping:wavey:
 

ringo865

Ideal_Rock
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Anyone?
 

Octo2005

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Not an expert, but I love this design and can't wait to see the finished piece.

I am not that savvy about reading CAD's but it would appear that the wings (the part extending past the stone edge on both the top and lower portion) seem to large compared to the inspiration piece. They also seem to slope down away from the stone in the original, almost like they are hugging it. Where as in the CAD they seem to stick out.

Overall, I think that I agree with you that the scale is off. The inspiration has a more delicate feel.
 

ringo865

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Thank you. And I now realize that I didn’t put all of the CAD in my original post.

This is CAD1
B463E9D6-E369-43FF-BB00-DEAFA22AA9E4.jpeg

And CAD2 with the Greek key in the side gallery.
D30CADAA-B3C3-488C-8FB5-18DFE064B7E9.jpeg

And the samples of Greek key design in a line that didn’t post earlier. 7E259043-CCF8-4D95-AC62-958FEDA8E375.jpeg 468FDC89-FEA7-4EE8-9828-D7D2B12ACA97.jpeg 5756D35E-75EB-4581-9067-44994AE51522.jpeg 613EDBA9-D528-4E27-B020-68216F6FA49F.jpeg
 

marymm

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I definitely prefer the Greek key design in that side panel - looks more cohesive as it repeats the key design on the front of the pendant.

I also agree the DK design is rather thicker than the original inspiration - in the original pendant you can see how low profile the setting is, such that the girdle of the center stone is exposed above the setting. That is probably why the original pendant needs those YG side prongs (which seem intrusive and blobby to me, as opposed to the architectural fineness of the pendant setting).

I do prefer the DK profile as it is more protective of the Tourmaline yet does not overwhelm it (IMHO), and will be a bit more secure and long-wearing. IRL it will be far more delicate and should be gorgeous.
 
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Rfisher

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You_Doodle_2019-06-15T16_52_14Z.jpg

This could be a trick of the eye.
The patterns look different, to me.
I find the red circled one more pleasing to the eye.

Edit. The more I look at it - the more I can't figure it out - lol!
 

MollyMalone

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* * * So, right off the bat, I know this: The bail is too gigantic. Although it is only 2 mm across, it seems really large compared yo the size of the pendant.
I'd ask about a smaller bail, but keep in mind that bail of your pendant is going to be inevitably larger (proportionally speaking) than the inspiration piece because your stone is so much smaller, yet a chain still needs to be able to pass through gracefully, without being "choked up."
I also want the ring connecting the bail is NOT fixed to the pendant or to the bail, so that the pendant freely swings. I cannot tell from the CAD whether that is fixed or not.
Based on the complete set of CADs you just posted, looks as if the ring is fixed to the pendant, but the bail is "free." Isn't that the same MO of the inspiration ring; the ring of that pendant doesn't look "floppy" to me.
Because my stone has clipped corners, he added triangle tab prongs in the corner. While I think that looks aesthetically pleasing, I notice that he did not add the little side prongs, like the inspiration piece. I don’t know whether they’d be necessary now that the stone would be held in place at the corners. I’m wondering whether that is something i really liked about the original, or if is more geometric without the side prongs.

The Greek key design looks kind of random/out of place just pasted in there like one, two, three. I looked on google to get an image of a line of them in a row. Connected. I don’t know if he can do it or if it would look better as he shows in his first rendition. Her are samples
Well, the samples are not all the same type of Greek key design. Is your preference for the one on the YG ring in the upper left-hand corner where the elements all flow into each other?

Expert analysis requested! Thanks!!!
 

Octo2005

Brilliant_Rock
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IMHO, I like the profile CAD with the circles as opposed to the Greek key design. It looks more fluid, sturdier to stand up to damage or bending and not likely to snag or catch on things. I could see knit sweaters and such potentially getting caught up in the key pattern and snagging.
 

diamondseeker2006

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Bail isn't too big in width. 2mm is thin and that's at it's widest point. I wouldn't change that part. But I think the opening is too rounded. You don't need 3.7mm for a 1-1.5mm chain. I'd want it flattened a bit.
 

ringo865

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And it’s 7 mm long, whereas the scaled down bail is like 5mm.
 

tyty333

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@ringo865 Not that this is a big deal but I think I would like the greek symbols turned so that the unattached outside loop is coming from the
bottom of the setting. This seems like it would be more consistent with the ring designs you have posted as well with the top greek key in
your inspiration piece.

Also...another NOT a biggie but a difference from the original you're working with, the top greek key design (in DK version) is coming up from the
bottom of the square opening (correctly) and the other key design (under the stone) is coming down from the top but on the wrong side (it needs to be
flip E/W I believe) (if you care...its so minor you may not).
 

ringo865

Ideal_Rock
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CC393905-3062-4201-A60E-0CA6F0252DFF.jpeg Newest CAD with my actual stone dimensions and the (giant) bail with stones/detail. Looks like the side gallery is lifted slightly so the pavilion of the stone won’t poke out the back. Also appears that the edges of he setting slope slightly downward/outward which I prefer.

I’m still trying to figure out connecting the Greek key in the side gallery and maybe swapping E/W the bottom one.

I notice he has .9mm stones in the four vertical middle stones and .8mm stones everywhere else (except the bail).

On the inspiration piece, my eye sees the four middle vertical stones as being the same size as the top/bottom horizontal rows. And the single stones on the “wings” and on the angled edges of the top/bottom (beside the Greek keys) seem smaller. Is this an optical illusion?

It never occurred to me, but I also don’t think I want the bail stones larger than the pendant stones.

Feedback please?
 
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