Calling EC experts - opinions please!

[HOUMedGal]

Hello all!! I am returning after a long time away from the site and a lot of life happening in between! Since I first joined and started looking for my e-ring, I was married for 9 years, but about a year ago we divorced. Now I am with a wonderful new man and happier than ever and we are working together to build a new engagement ring (planning to wear this one FOREVER!!!)

I've decided I want an emerald cut this time, and I've spent time reading all the good threads here (thanks for all the wonderful info, Gypsy!) So I have a good idea of what I want - of course, cut is king and I want a great performer. Definitely eye clean, but color doesn't bug me - the ring I am selling via consignment with Jewels by Grace is a 1.58 K VS2 OEC, and I loved the warmth of the stone (incidentally, if anyone is looking for a beauuuuuutiful OEC set in a platinum Sophie solitaire, I'd be happy to direct you that way!!! ) . I know that EC's show their warmth more than other cuts, but again, I think the fire thrown off by slightly warmer stones is beautiful. So I'm happy with a stone in the J-K range if all the other things add up.

I've been scouring enchanted diamonds and james allen websites, as well as good old gold, since these sites seem to have the best pics/videos and some ASETS, and found a few contenders... but last night I came across this guy that totally caught my eye:

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.71-carat-k-color-vs2-clarity-sku-1781985

The GIA cert calls it a "cut-cornered rectangular step cut" instead of an emerald cut due to the corners....and I happen to loooooooove the cut corners that give it more of an octagonal feel. The table is smallish, but that gives it a nice higher crown angle, which I also love. And the LxW dimensions are almost in the typical 2ct face up range, I guess because the weight that would be in the corners is redistributed? I requested an ASET, but the stone cannot be called in for ASET as it is overseas. So if I want to see more, we're gonna have to buy it and see. I have placed it on hold for 48 hrs while we think...so, based on the video, what do you guys think?? I see a little leakage or obstruction face on, but doesn't look too bad. I'm thinking it might be a good performer...opinions??

 

[HOUMedGal]

Planning on setting it in here:

https://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/tension/14k-white-gold-bezel-solitaire-engagement-ring-emerald-center-item-3260

 

[HOUMedGal]

And, if anyone wants to play the "find me a diamond" game I'm aiming to keep the price of the stone below $6K.

 

[ponder]

Did you buy it? It says "sold" now. I have had my eye on that one for a while. It makes my heart go pitter patter. I have looked at a fair share of larger EC's in the last few years, and it has what my eye is drawn to (small table/high crown). I hope you find one you love. I would also love to see Gypsy comment on the one you linked even if it is just an academic discussion due to it's slightly unusual shape.

 

[AprilBaby]

Long time no see! Sounds like life is good. That's a pretty emerald but I'm not an expert. Good luck!

 

[HOUMedGal]

Ponder - I have it on hold, but I'm 99% sure we're gonna pull the trigger on it....I love love love the cut cornered shape, the small table and high crown, the slight warmth....and I'm pretty sure it's gonna be a good performer. I too am curious to see what the EC connoisseurs like Gypsy think about it...bring on the academic discussion!!!

Hi AprilBaby!! Yes, life is wonderful these days - it has taken some rather unexpected turns, but they're all for the good. I'm truly happier than I've ever been!

 

[LawmaLlama]

Here's another K/IF under your price point that looks very promising. Although, I would caution against a bezel for an EC because of the impact on performance. Also, it may make the warmer colors appear even darker. I have had both a G an currently an I color EC, and can see the tint in both.

https://www.jamesallen.com/mobile/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.53-carat-k-color-if-clarity-sku-2042542

 

[HOUMedGal]

Yes, that one is very pretty - it's on my favorites list already

Are you suuuuuuuuuuure I shouldn't bezel it???? Because I am so in love with simple bezel settings....I definitely want something simple, fairly contemporary, clean, and I also love the fact that you can see the pavilion in that setting...plus I was thinking that a bezel would highlight the unique shape of that stone even more....but I'm open to other setting suggestions...

 

[HOUMedGal]

Re: the warmth - I am totally fine with the warmth being apparent. I was even toying with the idea of using yellow gold or rose gold....

 

[ponder]

If I wasn't in the midst of a massive home remodel I would have pulled the trigger on that one months ago. That is also the exact setting i was looking at except I was definitely going to do yellow gold. Personally I think that any stone except an ideal cut round will suffer some performance issues in a bezel. How much? Well that it a compromise you will have to figure out if you are ok with. Are you getting an aset on it? No matter what I think I would still bezel it.

 

[ponder]

Metal color and the K is a personal choice. My marquis (L/M) was originally set in yellow gold 18 years ago. When I switched to the white gold bezel 8 years ago it made a huge difference in the perceived color of the stone. The contrast with the white gold made the stone appear much more yellow than the original yellow gold setting.

 

[HOUMedGal]

That's good to know, Ponder, re: your marquise in yellow gold vs white gold....I've always worn either white gold or platinum in my fine jewelry, but yellow is making a comeback, and that stone suuuure would look purty in yellow gold....

I did ask for an ASET, but was told that they can only do ASETs on stones that are in the NY area, and this one is overseas, so no ASET avilable. But...I think I trust my eyes enough to at least purchase so I can see it in person. Then I have 30 days to either decide I love it without an ASET or go get one.

 

[LawmaLlama]

That's a bummer about no ASET. A few months back I was considering a larger EC from JA, and when they said no ASET, I told them no go. Because of the unique shape of the one you've chosen, and because you really seem to love it, then trust your eyes and be prepared to return it if it is a dud. Definitely check out the symmetry too - I noticed the G/G rating.

I totally understand why you would want to emphasize the uniqueness of the shape of this one and east-west set it. I also like the idea of the yellow gold for the color - there is a really pretty 2.01 J color EC in a yellow gold 3 stone setting in the JA Inspiration gallery that will give you an idea of what it would look like. The bezel right next to the 2.01 J is a 1.31 E/VVS2. That stone doesn't look nearly as great as the J because of the bezel. If you filter to just tension settings you'll see a ton of dud bezels. Take a look and you'll see what I mean about light loss and the effect a bezel can have on an EC.

If you bezel it, definitely check it out in hideous lighting conditions and be sure to smudge it with your fingers to see how much sparkle you lose when it is dirty.

Hope this helps!

 

[madelise]

I have a EC that's K colored, I love it.

 

[HOUMedGal]

Sooooo we went ahead and pulled the trigger on the 1.71 cut-cornered rectangular step cut! Can't wait to see it in person....I have a feeling I'm going to fall in love with it. Now to decide what to do about setting....I totally had my heart set on the bezel...but I'm going to entertain other possibilities. And also consider yellow or rose gold...I wonder what the K would look like in rose gold? Clearly it would look beautiful in yellow gold, but I wonder about rose...

 

[ponder]

Sooooo we went ahead and pulled the trigger on the 1.71 cut-cornered rectangular step cut! Can't wait to see it in person....I have a feeling I'm going to fall in love with it. Now to decide what to do about setting....I totally had my heart set on the bezel...but I'm going to entertain other possibilities. And also consider yellow or rose gold...I wonder what the K would look like in rose gold? Clearly it would look beautiful in yellow gold, but I wonder about rose...

Do you have any rose gold jewelry? How is it with your skin tone?

 

[HOUMedGal]

I don't have any rose gold, but I think it's really pretty and it would work with my skin tone (I'm quite fair with cool undertones to my skin, freckles, prematurely gray hair, blue eyes, and I always use cool tones in my makeup...definitely a "winter", lol)....

 

[HOUMedGal]

Llama, I'm having a hard time finding the JA Inspiration gallery you referred to...where is it?

 

[HOUMedGal]

Ahhhh never mind, I found it! I was looking on PS but realized it's on the JA website

 

[HOUMedGal]

I'm looking at the JA Inspiration gallery...found a 2.01ct K VS2 set in the bezel setting I like in platinum...only difference is it's set north south instead of east west...and it looks preeeeeetty fabulous despite the bezel. I wish I could link it here but if you filter for EC, tension settings, and then sort from high to low carat weight, it's the second one (it says 2.05 J VS2 on the main page, but then when you click on it for a closer look it's actually a 2.01 K VS2). But that being said, I definitely see what you mean with some of the other ones in that setting, Llama....I'm going to be an optimist and say that I think the duds were mostly duds to begin with based on what I can tell from the little thumbnails they show of the loose stones. And maybe the better cut stones aren't so "dudly" in the bezel?

Edited to add: also, looking at the ring I referenced above, the K set in platinum isn't bothering me at all....maybe I will go platinum. The ring I've got for sale on consignment with Jewels by Grace is a K set in platinum and I loved that ring. Granted it's an OEC, and the emerald K will likely show its warmth a little more.

 

[ponder]

Before you jump on rose gold go try some on. Sometimes it matches too well with skin and it just blends in (not in a good way). If it were my ering, I would probably do platinum too. But, I wasn't looking at it as something to get married with. I'm 15 years married in a 20 year relationship and I don't truly have a wedding ring or ering in the traditional sense. My original engagement ring and wedding band were destroyed in an accident, but I was able to salvage the stone and reset it. Daily I wear whatever my flavor of the day (plan yellow gold wide band, baguette eternity, antique tranny, reset original), all of which I have bought myself so I have no emotional attachment to any of it.

 

[HOUMedGal]

Yeah, I was wondering about whether rose gold might blend in too well...I do remember trying my friend's rose gold ring on once and deciding it looks better on her than on me (she has darker skin kind of olivey skin...the rose gold was amazing on her)...the more I look at the inspiration pics on JA, the more I'm thinking platinum....for some reason the warmth next to white gold on the gallery rings is bugging me a little but warmth next to platinum I'm kind of loving. Just the subtle difference between the platinum and the white gold, I suppose!

 

[Gypsy]

Ask for an ASET of the stone.

Here are some to consider. Remember, compare spread, not carat weight.

https://enchanteddiamonds.com/diamonds/view/E130-452707072

https://enchanteddiamonds.com/diamonds/view/E182-2Z20Z38Z5 Ask for ASET.

Big: https://enchanteddiamonds.com/diamonds/view/E130- (spread not weight). Ask for an ASET.

 

[HOUMedGal]

Thanks Gypsy! Those top two you posted are on my faves list already! I think the link got cut short on the 3rd one though so I can't see it...I did request an ASET on the JA stone, but was told that they couldn't get one since the stone was overseas. So I decided I was interested enough based on the video to give it a shot and then return if it's no good. I'm hoping to have it by the end of the week. What are your thoughts on it, based on the video and the stats?

 

[HOUMedGal]

Thinking more about setting options...what do y'all think about step cut tapered bullets or step cut traps? And making the side of the bullet or trap that abuts the center stone the same height as that side facet to still emphasize the deeply cut corners? Still with emerald set east-west.

Like this:

https://leonmege.com/portfolio/custom-work/three-stone/east-west-emerald-cut-platinum-three-stone-ring-detail

Or this:

https://www.leonmege.com/portfolio/custom-work/three-stone/east-west-emerald-cut-three-stone-engagement-ring-detail

 

[HOUMedGal]

And if I do end up needing to go custom on the setting, who would y'all recommend for something like that? I know who was good back in the day (2005 or so) when I was thinking about my first engagement ring, but I know things change and new folks come onto the scene...

 

[Gypsy]

I'd go with CVB or David Klass.

 

[LawmaLlama]

The choice of traps vs bullets may be better made once you pick your EC. For example, the first one Gypsy posted has 1.4 ratio. The stone will appear longer and more rectangular which I think is prettier for an east west setting. I'd pick tapered bullets for it assuming you have the finger width for it. For the second option, it has a 1.3 ratio and is a squattier (is that a word?) more square EC. I'd probably go with traps for it. I presently have a 1.3 ratio EC and would not set it east-west because the rectangle is just not that obvious. It would look like I had set my EC wrong. My old EC was a 1.42 ratio and would have looked great east-west. Just my 2 cents.

 

[HOUMedGal]

Thanks for the input, Gypsy and Llama. The stone I purchased is due to arrive tomorrow morning by 10:30 (yay!) so I'll know soon if it's a keeper!

I'm assuming if I do decide to go with sidestones, it would be best to let the ring designer source sidestones for me (vs trying to find them myself)?

 

[HOUMedGal]

Just crunched numbers...the stone I bought has a 1.37 ratio...will have to see if I have the finger width for bullets. Stone is 8.15 in length and I wear a 5.25....