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CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-Ring

becauseyes

Rough_Rock
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Hello!
I've posted a few times on PS and the help I've received has been invaluable. When I finally took the plunge and decided to go custom for my dream e-ring, I knew I was making everything more complicated and that I'm a bit out of my depth.
When I began searching for my engagement ring about 6 months ago, I ran across my dream ring right off the bat. My boyfriend and I hemmed and hawed - we just started our search, maybe there was something better out there, I mean, who loves the first ring they find? While we hesitated - the ring sold. Of course, it was an antique ring, one of a kind. And of course, it is actually THE ring. I've searched for the past 6 months for something similar - and I've found a few here and there that are great, but they're either out of my budget or a cheap imitation.
So after 6 months, I've decided to go custom. On a whim, I decided to go into a little family-owned jeweler across the street from my work. The jeweler was very knowledgeable, approachable, and most importantly, has lots of experience with custom designs AND vintage aesthetics. The CADs are in, and I need PS's help!
INSPIRATION:
vr160614-03i.jpg
vr160614-03g.jpg
vr160614-03d.jpg

CADs:
111_7.jpg
222_5.jpg
333_1.jpg
444.jpg
 

MissGotRocks

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

The stone pictured in the CAD is not and OEC but a modern round brilliant. That changes the look a bit but certainly not in a bad way!

What are your concerns with the new ring - or are you happy with it?
 

becauseyes

Rough_Rock
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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

@MissGotRocks
While the CAD shows a MRB, the center stone will be an OEC. We haven't committed to a center stone yet, but I'm eyeing a 1.8 VS2 I OEC.

I think I like it? Our plan is to cut a notch in the basket to fit a wedding band so that there's no gap, but I don't think I've ever seen a ring with that feature before? It's also not included in the CAD, but he may add the notch after casting. I also feel like the outer "square-ish" prongs don't match the original ring, and should be a lot less prominent... but I also realize that CADs tend to be "chunkier" than real life, so I'm not sure...
Ahh! It's such a big decison! I feel very overwhelmed.
 

rubybeth

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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

Personally I think the CADs look okay (I'm no expert, though), however, planning to cut a notch into this ring... yikes! I would either design it for a band to work better, get a curved band that fits around it, or plan to wear a band on your opposite hand.
 

sarahb

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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

This is out of my league as well, but I noticed this: the base of the prongs holding the melee differ between your inspiration ring & the actual cad. Perhaps this difference leads to a different looking, chunkier execution of the prong structure in the CAD?
 

LLJsmom

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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

My experience is that notches don't work that well. The rings still shift, but maybe less. I had a notch and expected no shifting but it seemed to seldom stay in place. Maybe if the rings were super tight on your finger the notch might hold the ering better. Just my 2c.
 

LLJsmom

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

Th original has sharp eagle claws. CAN your jeweler do eagle claws? Not too many can execute beautiful eagle claws. That is the biggest difference I see between the original and your CAD.
 

Sagefemme

Shiny_Rock
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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

For a first iteration I think the CADs look great. Can't find much to quibble with. The prongs are very "squared-off" especially where they meet the base in the CADs, but I presume they will be finished after casting to a more rounded profile. But that's something to confirm with the jeweler.
 

rubybeth

Ideal_Rock
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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

Just looked at this again and the base part of the ring under the stone isn't like the original. The original is more concave, and there's more metal. In the CAD, it's rounded outward (convex), and there's less metal.
 

Sagefemme

Shiny_Rock
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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

Also (you may already know this) your dream ring is not exactly one of a kind. It is a popular vintage style, and can be made, or is ready to buy, at certain jewelers who specialize in vintage. The pictures below are a ring called "Talia" which is an exact replica of a vintage ring. It's made by SingleStone in LA, the one pictured is $7,300:

taliatopss.jpg

sstalia.jpg
 

distracts

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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

becauseyes|1481996365|4107968 said:
@MissGotRocks
While the CAD shows a MRB, the center stone will be an OEC. We haven't committed to a center stone yet, but I'm eyeing a 1.8 VS2 I OEC.

I think I like it? Our plan is to cut a notch in the basket to fit a wedding band so that there's no gap, but I don't think I've ever seen a ring with that feature before? It's also not included in the CAD, but he may add the notch after casting. I also feel like the outer "square-ish" prongs don't match the original ring, and should be a lot less prominent... but I also realize that CADs tend to be "chunkier" than real life, so I'm not sure...
Ahh! It's such a big decison! I feel very overwhelmed.
Given that you'll be wearing the engagement ring without a wedding band for a while, and it's probably significantly more expensive, I think the better course of action is to have a wedding band that doesn't go all the way around, like has a big gap in the middle, and just fits snugly on either side of the basket. Then you can wear that with your engagement ring and have a second regular wedding band to wear when you're not wearing your engagement ring.

Someone recently had one like this - for the life of me I can't find it, but it was yellow gold with sapphire and maybe made by David Klass? They might have sold it recently? Does anyone know what I'm talking about and have a picture or link?

eta: found it:
https://loupetroop.com/listings/bands/further-reduced-4-quick-sale-18k-yellow-gold-sapphire-french-cut-band-by-dk;11845
See how the band is design to sit around the ring rather than mangling the ring so that a band can fit?
 

becauseyes

Rough_Rock
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Messages
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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

Thanks for all the responses!

@Ruby
How would you design it so a band could fit underneath? When I asked the jeweler about this, he said it was impossible without a notch. I personally don't like curved wedding bands, so that's out for me.
Also, thanks for the note on the convex vs. concave! I'll speak with the jeweler about changing that.

@Sarah
I agree! I just can't really put my finger on what's different, and though maybe it just comes down to the CAD feeling chunkier and less dainty. Any specifics you notice? I'd love to be able to go back to the jeweler with some specific changes.

@LLJsMom
Yeah, this is my fear! I'm not sure what my band is going to be yet, and I'm also worried about scratching from the two rings rubbing together. Do you think this ring could be designed to have a band flush with the e-ring? I personally don't like the look of curved bands, so I can't go that route...
The jeweler assured me that he could do claw prongs. Are these different from your standard claw?

@Sagefemme
Thanks for the insight! I will definitely check with the jeweler that the prongs will be more rounded. He did warn me that the CADs come off "chunkier" and then he will hand shape the prongs to be more delicate.
Thanks for the info on the other ring! While that ring is gorgeous and clearly the same style, it definitely feels very different from my inspiration ring to me, and not really what I'm going for. I'm actually worried that's what my design will look like!

@Distracts
Thanks for the link and the idea! I've never seen a wedding band like that. I would have to see what it would look like with my e-ring.
 

rubybeth

Ideal_Rock
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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

becauseyes|1482039501|4108103 said:
Thanks for all the responses!

@Ruby
How would you design it so a band could fit underneath? When I asked the jeweler about this, he said it was impossible without a notch. I personally don't like curved wedding bands, so that's out for me.
Also, thanks for the note on the convex vs. concave! I'll speak with the jeweler about changing that.
Well, I'm not jewelry designer, but I think you're not going to be happy having a huge chunk cut out of your ring just to wear a band. It could throw off the structure of the ring if it isn't designed with a notch to begin with. So maybe have your designer show you what the notch will look like in the CAD program. Personally, I think it won't look good, will mess with the aesthetics, and might even ruin the ring. I seem to recall asking you about wearing a band with this ring, and you said it wouldn't be a problem, but now, I think it is a problem and you need to adjust your expectations of wearing a band, the design of the ring, or plan to wear a band on an alternate hand. I'm sorry, but I would hate to see you get the ring and then have it ruined by having a notch put into it. :errrr:

If your goal is to wear a straight band with this, I'd re-design the basket entirely to have far less metal at the base, raise the base a bit, and maybe a little doughnut underneath, which would give you space to wear a band.

A few examples of how this could work with a big halo:

Tacori Full Bloom: http://www.since1910.com/tacori-552cu-full-bloom-diamond-halo-engagement-ring
Another Tacori: http://www.since1910.com/tacori-592rd-6-prong-halo-diamond-engagement-ring
Lotus ring at Brilliant Earth: http://www.brilliantearth.com/Lotus-Flower-Diamond-Ring-(1/3-ct.-tw..)-White-Gold-BE1BD12R2-1152417/
Bella ring at Brilliant Earth: http://www.brilliantearth.com/Bella-Diamond-Ring-White-Gold-BE1AHD22R22-1152964/
Steven Kirsch halo: http://stevenkirsch.com/gallery/ring-may-emerald-halo-diamonds-platinum/
Ostara ring at Brilliant Earth: http://www.brilliantearth.com/Ostara-Diamond-Ring-(1/4-ct.-tw..)-White-Gold-BE1A18R2BD25-1152939/
And this is one that doesn't have a halo but does have a bezel and the height of the basket allows for a band: http://www.maytalhannah.com/folio/cushion-in-rose-gold-petal-basket-ring/
 

Niel

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

I'd just get over it and wear the ring with a gap. But that's just me. Gaps are beautiful. Gaps make the ring look like two rings not one ring that has a thinker band on one side. You seem very concerned about making this one ring just right, and I think a huge chunk and a flush fit ring ruins it more than a gap does

I think the melee prongs have the stones set too high. The profile view the tiny peongs holding the halo stones appear a tad long to me. Yes that is how the original is, but if you're remaking it, why not improve it
 

Niel

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

Also the halo peongs are flat on the outside. The inspiration has then rounded on the outside. The rounding gives them more dimension. Probably a function of it being hand made.
 

LLJsmom

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

becauseyes|1482039501|4108103 said:
Thanks for all the responses!

@LLJsMom
Yeah, this is my fear! I'm not sure what my band is going to be yet, and I'm also worried about scratching from the two rings rubbing together. Do you think this ring could be designed to have a band flush with the e-ring? I personally don't like the look of curved bands, so I can't go that route...
The jeweler assured me that he could do claw prongs. Are these different from your standard claw?
This is my feeling about any jeweler. If I cannot see an example of his/her work that is exactly what I want, I will not trust that the jeweler can do it. So if I were you, I would ask to see a real life example of his/her claw prong work, or at the very very least a clear high definition picture of it. If that work is what you would be happy with, go for it. If not, I would not have the jeweler do it at all. That is just me. I'm anal and hard to convince. I need to see proof.
 

distracts

Ideal_Rock
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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

becauseyes|1482039501|4108103 said:
I'm also worried about scratching from the two rings rubbing together. Do you think this ring could be designed to have a band flush with the e-ring? I personally don't like the look of curved bands, so I can't go that route...
Your only options for a band that sits flush are a curved band, a band with a gap in it like the one I linked, or to notch your engagement ring (which I definitely, definitely wouldn't do - what if you want to wear it alone? or pass it down to a future child? or have to sell it for some reason? I don't think it will look good at all - please think about the physical structure of the basket and how BIG the "notch" will have to be to get a band to sit flush - you'll have to take out nearly half on one side below the prongs). You need to be ok with whatever the solution is before you proceed with your ring. This is why I recommended a ring with a gap - it's much more subtle than a curved band, can be made to exactly fit your ring so it looks like the band has slid under without having to alter the engagement ring, and you can easily have something that goes all the way around but otherwise looks just like it to wear if you want to wear the wedding band alone (although rings with little gaps are very trendy right now especially in stacks).
 

Niel

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

If you took a notch out to sit flush it would compromise the structure of the current ring. The prongs of the halo need a base under them.
 

distracts

Ideal_Rock
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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

Yeah I think the kind of thing her jeweler is talking about would be like this:

444_0.jpg

It's still structurally sound but aesthetically... not. In my opinion.
 

Niel

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

distracts|1482102556|4108233 said:
Yeah I think the kind of thing her jeweler is talking about would be like this:

444_0.jpg

It's still structurally sound but aesthetically... not. In my opinion.
I'd still feel that prong directly over the gap wouldn't have enough support under it.

And i guess then on an aesthetic point, why do that? It would hair look like a lopsided larger band. I dunno.
 

rubybeth

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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

distracts|1482102556|4108233 said:
Yeah I think the kind of thing her jeweler is talking about would be like this:

444_0.jpg

It's still structurally sound but aesthetically... not. In my opinion.
:-o :errrr: :confused: I really don't like that at all. What will happen to that side of the ring if you knock it against something?

I'd rather do a band with a notch out of it like distracts posted (have it designed by the jeweler making the ring so it fits perfectly), or get used to a band with a gap. Something designed to have a little notch or indent in it, like the Tiffany Harmony, could also look cool:

http://www.tiffany.com/explore/wedding-gift-guide-wedding-bands/tiffany-harmony-wedding-band-GRP05873/tiffany-harmony-wedding-band-28671652
 

distracts

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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

I think it would be perfectly structurally sound as long as a diamond band wasn't worn with it (unless it was channel set or brightcut pave). But you couldn't wear a regular diamond band with that without exposed diamond girdles gouging out the metal and causing issues. You'd have to solder them together.
 

Niel

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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

distracts|1482165167|4108351 said:
I think it would be perfectly structurally sound as long as a diamond band wasn't worn with it (unless it was channel set or brightcut pave). But you couldn't wear a regular diamond band with that without exposed diamond girdles gouging out the metal and causing issues. You'd have to solder them together.

you dont think that a gouge like that out of both sides, interrupting the head of the ring, would make it structurally unsound? there would be the end portion of that halo connected to the center only by halo prongs. , get that stuck on something or hit it seems like it would get all bent out of shape
 

chrono

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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

Will the accent stones in the halo also be old cut to match the center stone? I don't feel comfortable about the placement of the notch as I think that part of the ring might be weaker.
 

becauseyes

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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

After hearing everyone's responses, I think I'm going to avoid the notch idea. I think this means I need to alter the design to be able to fit a band flush. I'd love some inspo photos of halo rings with the ability to fit a wedding band flush! Thanks everyone, I'll update when the jeweler sends another round of CADs.
 

distracts

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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

becauseyes|1482265826|4108612 said:
After hearing everyone's responses, I think I'm going to avoid the notch idea. I think this means I need to alter the design to be able to fit a band flush. I'd love some inspo photos of halo rings with the ability to fit a wedding band flush! Thanks everyone, I'll update when the jeweler sends another round of CADs.
The list Rubybeth posted above is pretty good. Basically the basket area needs to either taper down to the same width as the band or be set above where a band would go. It will significantly alter the look.
 

rubybeth

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Re: CAD Critique Request - Antique Inspired Diamond Halo E-R

distracts|1482270842|4108638 said:
becauseyes|1482265826|4108612 said:
After hearing everyone's responses, I think I'm going to avoid the notch idea. I think this means I need to alter the design to be able to fit a band flush. I'd love some inspo photos of halo rings with the ability to fit a wedding band flush! Thanks everyone, I'll update when the jeweler sends another round of CADs.
The list Rubybeth posted above is pretty good. Basically the basket area needs to either taper down to the same width as the band or be set above where a band would go. It will significantly alter the look.
I agree that my list above is pretty good (sorry about the Brilliant Earth links--if you copy the full things, they are correct). :lol:

I'll also add this thread I began years ago on halos with plain shanks: [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/show-me-halos-with-plain-shanks.157864/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/show-me-halos-with-plain-shanks.157864/[/URL] Many of the styles in that thread would also allow for a straight band to be worn flush.
 
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