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Bespoke Edwardian-Inspired Russian Demantoid Pendant

tara3056

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Messages
329
This is cross-posted from the Colored Stones forum. I hope that's ok and that I'm not over-inundating PS with pics.

---
Hi all! It’s been ages since I was regularly posting here. After having my 2nd kid, I was short on time and money for jewelry, and my husband also became a lapidary himself as a hobby (has never sold his stones), so we were spending a fair bit of money on gem rough. I would sporadically check in on the forum from time to time, but now that I finally have a project to share (and it’s a doozy, if I do say so myself!), I wanted to come back and show it here because most people I know IRL just wouldn’t get it.

Background: Several years ago, I began collecting Russian Demantoid garnets with the idea of one day having them made into a very special pendant. I posted about this on a previous thread but continued to collect even more demantoids after that!


Here is a line-up of *some* of the stones:
Demantoid Lineup 1.JPG

Demantoid Layout8.JPG

All in, I ended up with 13 Demantoids (+ 2 Topazolites) -- too much for any one project, but I kept collecting them so that I'd have enough to get a perfectly matched suite + probably some leftovers if I ever wanted to make earrings later. I could have set all the stones just as pictured, in 3 linear drops, but I wanted something more unique and I wear pendants MUCH more often than I wear earrings (my ears are sensitive to all earrings, regardless of metal, and I can't keep earrings in for more than a few hours without issues.)


Demantoid Suite.JPG

I had long been an admirer of Scott Schreiber’s work on facebook, but I wasn’t sure if his aesthetic was right for this project, because I hadn’t seen him do that many vintage-looking pieces. However, he’s a huge fan of the early 20th century style of jewelry, considers the house of Cartier from 1900-1930 to be his favorite muse, and he’d been itching to work with Russian Demantoids but assumed he’d never get to because of the rarity factor. So I decided that he was just the right person for the job. The project took quite a while, but I daresay it’s been worth the wait. I am *thrilled* with the end result.

I gave Scott nearly carte blanche to design what he wanted. I told him I wanted it to be done in platinum, Edwardian-inspired, hand-fabricated, very traditional. I like drop shapes, air gaps, milgrain, and nature-inspired designs like leaves and flowers. Edwardian is my very favorite, but I like a fair bit of Art Nouveau and Art Deco as well. I sent him a folder of inspiration pics just to show the various styles of jewelry I like.

I sent him all of the demantoids, and he cherry-picked the very best 6 from the suite. They are very well matched in tone and saturation. They all have the coveted horsetail inclusions. They positively GLOW. They bewitch me in a way that no other colored stone does. (My other favorites are Mahenge/Jedi spinels, Emeralds, and Paraibas… but these Demantoids are my personal ne plus ultra of colored stones.)

This was the hand-rendering he came up with. He sent it with clarification that the rendering only captures the essence of the design, as many details are omitted in the rendering step ... the rendering makes it look like the pendant will have large swaths of bare platinum, because it omits all the bead/pave setting details, brightcutting, milgrain, etc. I was reassured that the actual pendant would not look so modern.

Scott's Demantoid Pendant Design.jpg

I also requested to add (where the sloppy yellow dots are) 4 additional diamond melee to fill out the field a bit more.

Dem Add Melee.jpg

To be continued...
 

tara3056

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Messages
329
Scott sent me progress pics along the way, and was always generous in explaining what I was looking at. He is a lovely person in addition to being a brilliant artist, and I count him as a friend now. He hand-fabricated the entire pendant (no casting). He even alloyed the platinum that went into it, made his own platinum solder, and used a few tools of his own making during its creation. He used the traditional techniques from the era I most admire, even cutting beautiful ajours on the reverse side. (I think the underside is nearly as beautiful to look at as the top side.) He made a late design decision to engrave some fern fronds on 3 of the plates, which I *love*.

The final stats are 1.42 carats of demantoids + 0.57 carats of diamonds. The pendant is 33.2mm high x 12.67mm wide x 4.38mm deep. It has quite a presence! It is slightly domed so as to sparkle more from various viewing angles.

This is sure to be my most treasured piece, and a definite family heirloom. I am pinching myself to own something so exquisite. Almost all the photo credits go to Scott Schreiber; the last handful are my own. I have a TON of pictures showing the progress from freshly-alloyed platinum to the very end.

Dem 1.jpg
Dem 2.jpg
Dem 3.jpg
Dem 4.jpg
Dem 5.jpg
Dem 6.jpg
Dem 7.jpg
Dem 8.jpg
Dem 9.jpg
Dem 10.jpg
Dem 11.jpg
Dem 12.jpg
Dem 13.jpg
Dem 14.jpg
Dem 15.jpg

To be continued...
 

tara3056

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Messages
329
Dem 16.jpg

Onward to stone-setting (all bead/pave set), brightcutting, milgrain, etc... The pendant was embedded in shellac for much of this process to keep it supported.

Dem 17.jpg
Dem 18.jpg
Dem 19.jpg
Dem 20.jpg
Dem 21.jpg

The top is slightly domed

Dem 22.jpg
Dem 23.jpg
Dem 24.jpg
Dem 25.jpg
Dem 26.jpg
Dem 27.JPG

And a couple pics on my hand for scale:

Dem 28.JPG
Dem 29.JPG

That's all for now! I have not taken any neck shots of myself wearing it, as I'm in my Covid-uniform today of yoga pants, no makeup, and messy hair. This pendant deserves better :lol-2: So I have it sitting on my neck form where I can freely admire it all day. I'm in love!
 

GliderPoss

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Sep 25, 2008
Messages
2,489
This is absolutely beautiful, I love the design and think it really showcases the garnets beauty. :kiss2: What a special piece to have, congrats. :dance:
 

Spring Day

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 21, 2020
Messages
139
Beautiful! A family heirloom for sure! And I love the story behind it along with the step by step process! Thank you for sharing!
 

Lykame

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 1, 2018
Messages
1,394
What a fabulous story, really enjoyed the read!

I feel like you should make a book out of those progress pictures, they are so cool! What a piece of ART.

Thoroughly enjoy wearing it, but we really do need to see neck shots regardless of yoga attire! :lol:
 

acaw2015

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jun 30, 2015
Messages
771
Wow! Beautiful. Loving the vivid green. Amazing to be able to see it being built. The craftmanship..!
 

Alex T

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Oct 24, 2012
Messages
5,288
This is just amazing. Fabulously unique & the colour of those stones, the craftsmanship & the end result is show stopping!
 

bespokecarmel

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jan 30, 2015
Messages
105
Love, love seeing the process start to finish! Thank you so much for sharing; the piece is amazing from color to design.
 

kgizo

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 14, 2009
Messages
1,706
Absolutely stunning! I love everything about your pendant!
 

Catmom

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
10,262
Wow, the green of those Demantoids is just fabulous!
 

lissyflo

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
1,029
What a stunning green your demantoids are, and they’re shown off beautifully by the pendant! It’s lovely!
 

ac117

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 28, 2014
Messages
3,770
Dem 16.jpg

Onward to stone-setting (all bead/pave set), brightcutting, milgrain, etc... The pendant was embedded in shellac for much of this process to keep it supported.

Dem 17.jpg
Dem 18.jpg
Dem 19.jpg
Dem 20.jpg
Dem 21.jpg

The top is slightly domed

Dem 22.jpg
Dem 23.jpg
Dem 24.jpg
Dem 25.jpg
Dem 26.jpg
Dem 27.JPG

And a couple pics on my hand for scale:

Dem 28.JPG
Dem 29.JPG

That's all for now! I have not taken any neck shots of myself wearing it, as I'm in my Covid-uniform today of yoga pants, no makeup, and messy hair. This pendant deserves better :lol-2: So I have it sitting on my neck form where I can freely admire it all day. I'm in love!
This is suchhhh an exquisite piece!! The color on those garnets are amazing!!!! :kiss2:
 

tara3056

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Messages
329
Thank you all so much for your lovely comments and for letting me share my excitement with you! <3
 
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