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Bespoke Edwardian-Inspired Russian Demantoid Pendant

tara3056

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Messages
329
Hi all! It’s been ages since I was regularly posting here. After having my 2nd kid, I was short on time and money for jewelry, and my husband also became a lapidary himself as a hobby (has never sold his stones), so we were spending a fair bit of money on gem rough. I would sporadically check in on the forum from time to time, but now that I finally have a project to share (and it’s a doozy, if I do say so myself!), I wanted to come back and show it here because most people I know IRL just wouldn’t get it.

Background: Several years ago, I began collecting Russian Demantoid garnets with the idea of one day having them made into a very special pendant. I posted about this on a previous thread but continued to collect even more demantoids after that!


Here is a line-up of *some* of the stones:

Demantoid Lineup 1.JPG

Demantoid Layout8.JPG

All in, I ended up with 13 Demantoids (+ 2 Topazolites) -- too much for any one project, but I kept collecting them so that I'd have enough to get a perfectly matched suite + probably some leftovers if I ever wanted to make earrings later. I could have set all the stones just as pictured, in 3 linear drops, but I wanted something more unique and I wear pendants MUCH more often than I wear earrings (my ears are sensitive to all earrings, regardless of metal, and I can't keep earrings in for more than a few hours without issues.)

Demantoid Suite.JPG


I had long been an admirer of Scott Schreiber’s work on facebook, but I wasn’t sure if his aesthetic was right for this project, because I hadn’t seen him do that many vintage-looking pieces. However, he’s a huge fan of the early 20th century style of jewelry, considers the house of Cartier from 1900-1930 to be his favorite muse, and he’d been itching to work with Russian Demantoids but assumed he’d never get to because of the rarity factor. So I decided that he was just the right person for the job. The project took quite a while, but I daresay it’s been worth the wait. I am *thrilled* with the end result.

I gave Scott nearly carte blanche to design what he wanted. I told him I wanted it to be done in platinum, Edwardian-inspired, hand-fabricated, very traditional. I like drop shapes, air gaps, milgrain, and nature-inspired designs like leaves and flowers. Edwardian is my very favorite, but I like a fair bit of Art Nouveau and Art Deco as well. I sent him a folder of inspiration pics just to show the various styles of jewelry I like.

I sent him all of the demantoids, and he cherry-picked the very best 6 from the suite. They are very well matched in tone and saturation. They all have the coveted horsetail inclusions. They positively GLOW. They bewitch me in a way that no other colored stone does. (My other favorites are Mahenge/Jedi spinels, Emeralds, and Paraibas… but these Demantoids are my personal ne plus ultra of colored stones.)

This was the hand-rendering he came up with. He sent it with clarification that the rendering only captures the essence of the design, as many details are omitted in the rendering step ... the rendering makes it look like the pendant will have large swaths of bare platinum, because it omits all the bead/pave setting details, brightcutting, milgrain, etc. I was reassured that the actual pendant would not look so modern.

Scott's Demantoid Pendant Design.jpg


I also requested to add (where the sloppy yellow dots are) 4 additional diamond melee to fill out the field a bit more.

Dem Add Melee.jpg


To be continued....
 

tara3056

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Messages
329
Scott sent me progress pics along the way, and was always generous in explaining what I was looking at. He is a lovely person in addition to being a brilliant artist, and I count him as a friend now. He hand-fabricated the entire pendant (no casting). He even alloyed the platinum that went into it, made his own platinum solder, and used a few tools of his own making during its creation. He used the traditional techniques from the era I most admire, even cutting beautiful ajours on the reverse side. (I think the underside is nearly as beautiful to look at as the top side.) He made a late design decision to engrave some fern fronds on 3 of the plates, which I *love*.

The final stats are 1.42 carats of demantoids + 0.57 carats of diamonds. The pendant is 33.2mm high x 12.67mm wide x 4.38mm deep. It has quite a presence! It is slightly domed so as to sparkle more from various viewing angles.

This is sure to be my most treasured piece, and a definite family heirloom. I am pinching myself to own something so exquisite. Almost all the photo credits go to Scott Schreiber; the last handful are my own. I have a TON of pictures showing the progress from freshly-alloyed platinum to the very end.

Dem 1.jpg
Dem 2.jpg
Dem 3.jpg
Dem 4.jpg
Dem 6.jpg
Dem 7.jpg
Dem 8.jpg
Dem 9.jpg
Dem 10.jpg
Dem 11.jpg
Dem 12.jpg
Dem 13.jpg
Dem 14.jpg
Dem 15.jpg
Dem 16.jpg

To be continued with stone-setting...
 

tara3056

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Messages
329
Onward to stone-setting (all bead/pave set), brightcutting, milgrain, etc... The pendant was embedded in shellac for much of this process to keep it supported.

Dem 17.jpg
Dem 18.jpg
Dem 19.jpg
Dem 20.jpg
Dem 21.jpg
Slight doming of the top:
Dem 22.jpg
Dem 23.jpg
Dem 24.jpg
Dem 25.jpg

Dem 26.jpg
Dem 27.JPG

On my hand for a sense of scale:
Dem 28.JPG
Dem 29.JPG

That's all for now! I have not taken any neck shots of myself wearing it, as I'm in my Covid-uniform today of yoga pants, no makeup, and messy hair. This pendant deserves better :lol-2: So I have it sitting on my neck form where I can freely admire it all day. I'm in love!
 

Cockatiel

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 28, 2017
Messages
678
OMG! That is beyond gorgeous. I'm speechless! Congratulations!!!
 

Rfisher

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Oct 19, 2013
Messages
2,542
Absolutely stunningly gorgeous!
Thank you for letting us see the documented journey of this fantastic piece. What workmanship. :love:
Unreal.
Enjoy this beauty!

I hope he gets more chances to do this period of design. His other stuff is beautiful - but he really excels at this.
 

lovedogs

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jul 31, 2014
Messages
11,312
It is seriously breathtaking. I cant imagine how long it took him to do all of the handwork! A true heirloom piece!
 

Arcadian

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Sep 17, 2008
Messages
7,290
Wow! Thats GORGEOUS!!! :kiss2:
 

JackTrick

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jul 23, 2019
Messages
190
Those demantoids are absolutely divine. What a lovely way of setting them!
 

2Neezers

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 8, 2014
Messages
1,260
Your pendant is gorgeous! The stones are the most beautiful green :love:. Congratulations!
 

minousbijoux

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 5, 2010
Messages
12,381
Now that was an agonizing read! I just wanted to jump the end of the story to see it, but reined myself in and enjoyed the build up (plus I would've missed the part where you and he become good friends)!

It is a gorgeous, gorgeous, exquisite piece of art treasure. I cannot wait for neck shots - it is so beautiful and so regal! Now back up to look again...
 

voce

Ideal_Rock
Joined
May 13, 2018
Messages
3,775
:kiss2::kiss2:
This is the best kind of eye candy. Thank you for sharing the pictures and the story, too.
 

kenny

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 30, 2005
Messages
28,727
Wow!
That's really really gorgeous! :clap:
 

paragon1234

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Mar 8, 2020
Messages
104
I loved looking at the photos of the various stages of construction. It's a work of art.
 

dk168

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jul 7, 2013
Messages
6,289
It is gorgeous and original, thanks for sharing.

DK :kiss2: :kiss2: :kiss2:
 

partgypsy

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Nov 7, 2004
Messages
6,437
Wow that's mind blowingly beautiful. I thought from original post where you say it is hard to find demantoids in larger sizes, I thought the whole pendant would be smaller. Those are sizeable demantoids!
 

budmanbudman10

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jan 15, 2019
Messages
36
Amazing piece and stones! Thanks so much for including all the concept and progress photos! Made for a wonderful reading experience :)
 

Niffler75

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 3, 2020
Messages
1,087
@tara3056 Thanks so much for sharing this design process. Fascinating and holy mackrel, what an outcome. Stunning! :kiss2:
 

ItsMainelyYou

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 27, 2014
Messages
619
The detail on this is unreal. :-o And those demantoids are some of the nicest I've ever seen.
It's master level work. Just next level jaw dropping!
:lickout:
 

arkieb1

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 11, 2012
Messages
9,593
Wow what an outstandingly beautiful heirloom piece you have created!!!
 

MrsKMB

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 16, 2017
Messages
593
Holy sheeeeet, it's gorgeous! I was drooling at the stones, and was totally soaked by the time I finished looking at your pictures! Fabulous! Just fabulous!

I also found the progression very interesting. I had no idea that's how pieces are made.
 

leslie1956

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jun 26, 2017
Messages
821
I was amazed just by the quality and size of your demantoids, so the end result with the incredible pendant design totally blew my mind! Enjoy your stunning piece of heirloom jewelry :)
 
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