Beginner looking for some help - cushion cut

[southbamajag]

Hi All,

I am about to propose to my gf and have been looking for an engagement ring. This is the first time i've bought a diamond and i've been trying to do some research but it is all so overwhelming. This is one of the biggest purchases that i have ever made so I'm a little worried and would really appreciate any help from the experts on here.

The style of ring that my gf has her heart set on is this Harry Winston:

http://www.harrywinston.com/store/engagement/diamond-rings-2/products/cushion-cut-micropave

I do not have that big of a budget and obviously cannot afford this particular Harry Winston. My budget is around 10 - 12k and from doing some research, i feel that I could probably get a 1.5ct. center diamond within that range with a decent cut, color and clarity. My gf has a family friend who works in the jewellery business and he offered to replicate the exact ring in the picture above. These are the specifics that he provided:

Center Diamond
1.5ct., F color, SI1 clarity and very good cut

Side & halo diamonds (Platinum band)
0.5ct. F color, SI1 clarity.

Depth is 68.4%
Table is 60%

The estimated price he quoted to custom make the ring was about $12.5k

The price is a little higher than my budget but if the ring is exactly the style she wants then I might be able to squeeze some funding from other sources. I understand the 4 C's, but i have no clue about the depth % and table %. Hopefully the experts can help with that, are those %'s normal for this type of cushion cut ring? Also what other information should i try to get from the jeweller or what else should I be concerned about in this type of purchase.

Thank you very much again for taking the time to read this. I would appreciate any help/feedback (positive or negative).

 

[slg47]

hi and welcome! have you seen the diamond in person? do you have any images? with cushions you really can't go by the numbers...you need images to evaluate since the appearances can vary widely even within the same depth/table ranges.

also, I would encourage you to see examples of this jeweler's pave work before going with him to make such a delicate pave setting.

 

[AnneinGA]

From all I've read about "family friends" in the jewelry business on this forum, I would run away from having him make your GF's engagement ring. I cannot think of one. single. case. where it worked out, the buyer got a stone that was worth it, and the work was done right.

That is unless she's related to Jon at Good Gold Gold, Brian at Brian Gavin, Leon, Victor, etc. etc.

 

[southbamajag]

Hi Thank you for your comments.

I have not seen the diamond and he has told her that the ring will look exactly like the Harry Winston as he has made it before. I'm not sure if it will be exactly like the Harry Winston but if it is close we would be fine with that, but I'm having a hard time putting some money down and then if it does not turn out to be what they said it would be, she might not be happy with it.

Would you recommend custom building a ring that we like or maybe just going directly to the jewller and find one that she likes which is ready made?

In terms of pricing, do you think the $12.5k is appropriate for the features of the ring that he mentioned? It looked slightly less than similar rings on bluenile.

 

[slg47]

Hi Thank you for your comments.

I have not seen the diamond and he has told her that the ring will look exactly like the Harry Winston as he has made it before. I'm not sure if it will be exactly like the Harry Winston but if it is close we would be fine with that, but I'm having a hard time putting some money down and then if it does not turn out to be what they said it would be, she might not be happy with it.

Would you recommend custom building a ring that we like or maybe just going directly to the jewller and find one that she likes which is ready made?

In terms of pricing, do you think the $12.5k is appropriate for the features of the ring that he mentioned? It looked slightly less than similar rings on bluenile.

I had my engagement ring custom made and that worked for me...however I would want to see lots of examples of this jeweler's work, especially for pave. (he might be very competent, but that is a very intricate and delicate setting, and there are several examples of HW halo replicas that look 'clunky'...which you don't want!)

there are WAY too many unknowns with the pricing...lots of variables that go into the diamond...is it graded by GIA? what about the setting...what method is used to make it? what is the warranty?

since you are looking for a cushion I highly recommend this video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1O7H8E_MYRM

 

[southbamajag]

Hi Thank you for your comments.

I have not seen the diamond and he has told her that the ring will look exactly like the Harry Winston as he has made it before. I'm not sure if it will be exactly like the Harry Winston but if it is close we would be fine with that, but I'm having a hard time putting some money down and then if it does not turn out to be what they said it would be, she might not be happy with it.

Would you recommend custom building a ring that we like or maybe just going directly to the jewller and find one that she likes which is ready made?

In terms of pricing, do you think the $12.5k is appropriate for the features of the ring that he mentioned? It looked slightly less than similar rings on bluenile.

I had my engagement ring custom made and that worked for me...however I would want to see lots of examples of this jeweler's work, especially for pave. (he might be very competent, but that is a very intricate and delicate setting, and there are several examples of HW halo replicas that look 'clunky'...which you don't want!)

there are WAY too many unknowns with the pricing...lots of variables that go into the diamond...is it graded by GIA? what about the setting...what method is used to make it? what is the warranty?

since you are looking for a cushion I highly recommend this video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1O7H8E_MYRM

Thanks a lot for the video, i will check it out tonight. The diamond will be graded by GIA, I will find out about the method used to make the setting... what is the norm benchmark here?

 

[slg47]

Hi Thank you for your comments.

I have not seen the diamond and he has told her that the ring will look exactly like the Harry Winston as he has made it before. I'm not sure if it will be exactly like the Harry Winston but if it is close we would be fine with that, but I'm having a hard time putting some money down and then if it does not turn out to be what they said it would be, she might not be happy with it.

Would you recommend custom building a ring that we like or maybe just going directly to the jewller and find one that she likes which is ready made?

In terms of pricing, do you think the $12.5k is appropriate for the features of the ring that he mentioned? It looked slightly less than similar rings on bluenile.

I had my engagement ring custom made and that worked for me...however I would want to see lots of examples of this jeweler's work, especially for pave. (he might be very competent, but that is a very intricate and delicate setting, and there are several examples of HW halo replicas that look 'clunky'...which you don't want!)

there are WAY too many unknowns with the pricing...lots of variables that go into the diamond...is it graded by GIA? what about the setting...what method is used to make it? what is the warranty?

since you are looking for a cushion I highly recommend this video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1O7H8E_MYRM

Thanks a lot for the video, i will check it out tonight. The diamond will be graded by GIA, I will find out about the method used to make the setting... what is the norm benchmark here?

there is no norm benchmark but the way in which the setting is made will affect the pricing...and that is something you would want to know before you make a purchase!!

 

[cookies]

$12,500 is a lot of money for a setting. Without knowing who this "family friend" jeweler is, I suggest you ask a few other jewelers for quotes. Their quote might surprise you, in a good way.

A few names come to my mind: Leon Mege, Victor Canera, Steve Kirsch, etc. They all do excellent pave work, and have fabricated rings similar to the HW ring you posted. They should be able to source the center diamond for you too.

ETA:

I re-read the post, and realized the $12,500 quote might include all the diamonds needed.. If that's the case, please ignore what I said above. However, you should still check the quality of that jeweler's past work.

 

[Rockdiamond]

hi South!

A few things come to mind reading your post.
First of all, the ring.
There's such a wide variety of quality available today on that type of ring.
Prices can range from $1000 up to $5000+ for the ring itself.
I'm not suggesting that by paying a lot you're guaranteed a great ring- but the opposite is kind of true.
A cheaper ring will lack certain things a high quality ring has.
The best rings are going to be handmade- with things like ultra clean micro pave work, as well as shaped prongs on the center diamond.

In a case like this it's essential to make sure that the seller has other rings like this they can show you- so you can know what to expect.

In terms of the stone- as you know, make sure to get a stone that has a GIA report.
By all means watch a lot of videos on the web to get ideas- be aware that different sellers prefer different types of diamonds- and this can be reflected in their representation- and videos.

The link you posted looks to be a "crushed ice" type of cushion.
That means a bottomless pit of small sparkles in a well cut stone.

Other types have "chunky" facets.
Simpler designs that will allow you to see the different facets.
Remember, neither is "better" it's all about preference.

 

[southbamajag]

Thanks for everybody's feedback. I have some updates.

So i went to a few other jeweller's in the area and got quotes from them and it looked like they are all in the same $12.5 - $13k price range for custom making this ring. Based on the similarity of prices, my gf feels more comfortable going with someone that she knows and he has also told her that he has done this exact ring a few times for different clients.

So I got the certificate of the stone that he will be using, below is the pic of the certificate and the zoomed pics of the stone with the clouds. I see quite a few clouds on this picture, however he has mentioned that none of them are visible with the naked eye and they are close to the edge so it should not be a problem. I don't mind a diamond with some clouds if they are not visible with the naked eye, however is it normal for a diamond to have this many clouds/crystals and none of them being visible to the naked eye? I will try to take a look at the actual stone and see if that is in fact the case but just wanted to see if the experts on here had any other feedback based on the GIA cert of this stone.

Thanks again for your help.

 

[tyty333]

Based on the similarity of prices, my gf feels more comfortable going with someone that she knows and he has also told her that he has done this exact ring a few times for different clients.

Ask to see pictures/CADS/whatever he has of these rings that he has made for other clients. Also ask to see whatever rings
he has made that are currently in his shop.

We really need to see pictures/aset images of the cushion to be able to tell you much. Cushions come in all different
flavors and faceting patterns. You cant tell if a stone is eye-clean just by looking at its plot. You need someone you
trust that can view it in person under different lighting conditions to tell if its eye-clean. Also, let them know what
your definition of eye-clean is...cant see any inclusion at any range, cant see anything from 6 inches, 9 inches...etc.

 

[StoopidMonkey]

One diplomatic solution could be to purchase the diamond elsewhere, such as an August Vintage Cushion from Good Old Gold, and have the family friend jeweler set the diamond in his custom made ring. When it comes to diamonds of that price, without knowing more about the jeweler I have my doubts as to whether they can get their hands of the "good stuff" or even knows what the "good stuff" is based on relative experience, especially when it comes to fancy shapes. Go to YouTube and look up videos for August Vintage Cusions to know what they can do, and use that for mental comparison when you see what the jeweler has to offer.

 

[Rockdiamond]

South- it's very important to remember that anyone can quote any price for a custom made ring- especially if they don't have a sample to show- so you'll have no idea what they are selling.
IN terms of the plot, clouds and eye cleanliness, as tyty333 mentioned, we can't determine if the stone is eye clean from the plot.
BUT- it's very important that you are able to see this stone in person. This way you can make your own determination.