Asscher Engagement Ring Size/Setting- Help

[Missmacaron]

Hello, I am hoping to get some advice and insight on an Asscher ring setting. Ever since I can remember, I have adored the Harry Winston double claw prongs, set with either baguettes, traps, or trillions. So when BF and I began ring shopping, I quickly realized that the 5c HW ring I was drooling over was a tad bit over budget. So I started looking at alternative sizes and settings- solitaire, bezels, even vintage 3 stones. I've narrowed it down and decided that we can probably find a stone in the 2c-3c range. Depending on the size/measurements of the stone, I may decide to set it as a solitaire if it is on the larger side.

So here is one I really liked. It's 2.21 F VS1, Excellent Cut and Symmetry, thick girdle, and 69.8% depth with table at 66%. The stone measures 7x7x4.89. Sorry, photo is a bit off, I took it with my iphone, and its not 100% clear. It was a beautiful stone but I had hoped for something larger in width/length and perhaps would be willing to go down a grade in color. I've been reading all the wonderful suggestions and posts here regarding Asschers and suggested settings and have learned so much. What would you guys do with this stone? Do you think it would look better just a bit bigger?

 

[Asscherhalo_lover]

With the thick girdle and only measuring 7x7 for a stone over 2cts this is facing up small for it's size. I see it's already set in a mounting, who is the seller? One of the most frequently recommended vendors on here for an asscher is good old gold. They hand pick theirs and if they don't have what you want currently available you can give them your parameters and they can call stones in for evaluation.

 

[Missmacaron]

Interesting how much variation in measurements there are. Even when the carat weights are similar. I suppose you really can't go by carat weight on these cuts at all! I actually stuck the stone on top of a setting. It's not set in and I had to balance it just to take a photo. Thanks for the suggestion on Good Old Gold, it looks like they're on the East Coast, and I'm not within the same region. Do you have any experience buying a stone without actually seeing it/comparing to others? I'd imagine it would be easier to go in store to see.

 

[Asscherhalo_lover]

Most buyers on the forum buy online from other states. I have done it myself many times. One of the reasons I would recommend good old gold to someone shopping online is that they will do comparison videos and a lot of leg work for you. You can also purchase a stone check it out yourself and return it if you're not satisfied. Check out some of the videos on their website. If you're shopping for a fancy online they are the best.

 

[Gypsy]

I don't think it's facing up unreasonably small. 7.3 would be nice, But the majority of comparable stones are facing up similarly.

I just looked at a bunch of comps to compare and most are at 7x7
http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/2.19-carat-f-color-vs1-clarity-sku-182737
http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/2.23-carat-e-color-vs2-clarity-sku-224018

GOG has some contenders:http://www.goodoldgold.com/diamondResults.php?shape=8192&ctMin=2.0&resultsColumns=268435471 But nothing that jumps out at me as "MUST BUY"!

I am assuming your budget is around 25-27K, is that right?


Personally I'd shoot for H VS. White, but lets you maximize size, and with asschers size is at a premium.

I like this one: http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/2.42-carat-h-color-vs2-clarity-sku-238047
And this one is facing up nicely: http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/2.59-carat-h-color-vs2-clarity-sku-249510

I know they both get a VG for symmetry, but it isn't affecting the optics, so I think it's fine on both of them, but you can ask the gemolgist to tell you why the symmetry is VG on the stones.

You can put them on hold with no obligation, and ask for an ASET image of them (it takes three days). JA has a 60 day no questions return policy, they pay shipping both ways. It's the best return policy in the industry, as far as I can tell. And if you want, you can get a diamond from them, take it in and compare it to the F you are considering and see what you think for yourself.


I also own an asscher and mine is an F VS1. If I knew then what I know now, I would have gone for more size and an H color myself. Alas... hindsight is 20/20.


With asschers just a .3 mm makes a huge difference.

As for settings... I looked for settings for my asscher for 4 years. If it exists, I've seen it, priced it, and considered it. Tell what you want, what you like... and I can post some options and recommend some

 

[Missmacaron]

I think I'm on the same page that the measurements/size of the face really does make a difference.I'm going to have to explore the G/H colors. Do you think there's a noticeable difference from VS1 to VVS2? I had planned on staying at VVS2 or above. Budget is $25-30...BF hopes its on the bottom side of that of course

As for what setting I'd like, here's a blurry shot of the HW I initially fell in love with. It was about 5c, forgot the exact specs, but it was visibly yellow, and had a 6 figure price tag. If possible, I would like to achieve the same look, either with the trillions here, or tapered baguettes. The 2.21 stone I looked at, measuring at 7x7, would not have the same proportions if I set it like this. Oh, and I'm a size 5.5 ring, that would help put the photo's in perspective I suppose. Alternately, I would like a solitaire, they just seem so simple and elegant. But I'm on the fence on micropave. Its pretty, but I've heard stories about stones falling out, not wearing comfortably, etc. Gypsy- What did you end up going with?

 

[Gypsy]

I would say that VVS is a waste of money. Except we are talking about fancy's. And you can't pick and chose fancies like you can rounds. You have to buy on faceting and performance. So you have to keep ranges open.

It's almost impossible to say you want ONLY a H VS2 and except to get the best looking stone out there for your budget. What you need to do is keep ranges open. No, I KNOW there is no difference when it comes to safety and naked eye appearance between VS1 and IF--- nevermind VVS. So you are fine there. And same with an eyeclean VS2. Only thing you need to be aware of is that because of the nature of step cuts, you pretty much have to stay at VS and above and can't (except in rare instances) go down to SI like you can with any brilliant cut stone. Also there will be the ocassional VS2 that may not be eyeclean, and all you need to do with that is: If you are shopping in person, look at the inclusions under the loupe and see if you can see them with your naked eyes (probably not, but it does happen ocassionally). Or if you are shopping online, sticking with vendors (like JA) that have trained gemologists that can pull the thing and tell you if it is eyeclean (make sure your definition of eyeclean matches the vendor's).

Both those H VS stones from JA for example are clean, you can see that in the 40 mag pictures, but you can ask the gemologist to look them over as well.

Also remember... you MAY see a BARELY noticeable tint if you compare a G to a D or an E to an H. That just means your eyes work. Doesn't meant it's bad and it doesn't mean you will notice it at all when you are wearing it by yourself.

Also, do not wear a yellow, orange, or beige shirt when shopping. Try to stick to white, blue, bright greens (not pea greens)... diamonds reflect. I cannot tell you how many times we see people come on here and say... I think someone swapped my diamond it looks yellow-- only to discover they are wearing beige or are in a room with beige walls.

 

[Gypsy]

As for what I went with.

I fell in love with a 2 carat with straight baguettes, but our budget only went as far as a little over a carat.

I eventually went with a plain shank with a delicate halo. I didn't want pave because of the durability, but... the boost in size the halo gives was undeniable. I also had my pave done by one of the best, Steven Kirsch, so that took care of the durability entirely. Here's a pic of mine.


I like it because it gives me a lot of flexibility with different bands.




This is a 7.6mm asscher with tapered baguettes. This will give you an idea of proportion: http://images.betteridge.com/images/products/standard/asscher-cut-diamond-2.46-carats-engagement-ring.jpg

This is a 7.2mm asscher (about) with shields (I really like shields): http://www.zivajewels.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/400x/89d99a8319c92659e3cd9623723adcc5/2/8/2857e.png


This one is my favorite from PS (only thing I'd change is the prongs a bit):

Center is about 2 carats (I do not know the measurements though):



That setting is from Singlestone.

 

[Acinom]

I love your ring Gypsy!!! Especially stacked with 2 bands.

This is another of my Pricescope fabourites: Asscher Girls beautiful ring by Sebastien Barier. I think het center stone is 2.5 ct, but I am not sure.

 

[Asscherhalo_lover]

I also wanted to add for a side stone option, step cut traps. My fav 3 stone with an asscher is step cut traps.

 

[Niel]

http://jewelsbyericagrace.smugmug.com/Jewelry/Modern-and-Estate-Pieces/217ctw-Emerald-Cut-3-stone/31889098_pf2nw7

CTW is a little smaller but the price is low enough you could buy the most amazing wedding BANDS and look like a million dollars.

 

[Missmacaron]

Gypsy, your stone is beautiful! Thanks for sharing. I'm still torn between getting a smaller size E/F vs a larger G/H stone. I think I may have to do sidestones, they really bring out the facets(?) and steps it seems.

Niel, that's the perfect ring! If only it were more square...and a bit larger. But I may actually decide on traps for the sides.

So I've been poking around the PS forums and it seems many people have had good experiences with GOG, but I absolutely saw Leon Mege's settings and I love how delicate they all appear. If only I could figure out what i'd like for the main stone...settings next I suppose!

 

[Gypsy]

Larger G/H hands down.

Trust me.

 

[Missmacaron]

Larger G/H hands down.

Trust me.

Haha! The grass is always greener on the other side isn't it, I was thinking of how nice a perfect stark white stone would be, but within the budget, in order to achieve the look I've always thought I wanted from my engagement ring, I'll probably go with a G/H color. Maybe I'll warm up to it at some point. I notice some asschers look lighter in color, and some have dark/black stripes...is there a standard on this? Depth looking into the stone is a good thing right?

 

[Gypsy]

It sounds like a simple question... about the banding. But it's not.

You want a set pattern and bright facets that turn on and off.
You want symmetry and... let me see, somewhere I might have an old post that might help.

Here... this is a "tutorial" that might help. [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/1st-time-buyer-looking-at-asscher.174506/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/1st-time-buyer-looking-at-asscher.174506/[/URL] SHOOT a lot of them are "sample images"... no longer available.

Well, the ones that don't say that, might help. I don't have time to re-do the links. I will maybe have time later this week though.

 

[gregchang35]

You have gypsy helping out so you are in good hands.

I only wish i found the 'tutorial' on the asscher before i got my asscher. I still love my asscher, dont get me wrong. I would have probably searched harder for mine.

 

[Missmacaron]

You have gypsy helping out so you are in good hands.

I only wish i found the 'tutorial' on the asscher before i got my asscher. I still love my asscher, dont get me wrong. I would have probably searched harder for mine.

it seems there are so many variations on patterns, cuts, even color, i was almost tempted to go royal asscher and deal with a smaller size just so i could avoid all this. so i went to see some RAs in person but it just didn't appeal to me. it was beautiful and there was tons of sparkle/fire but something about the narrow steps, i guess i was used to seeing wider steps on a standard "asscher" or whatever my expectations associate with this cut. that plus the price premium on them...so nixed that idea and am hoping to find one the hard way.

thanks for all the feedback and education so far, gypsy has given some good suggestions. hopefully i can understand this banding thing next!

 

[Missmacaron]

Can someone advise if this is a good choice? To me it's a pretty pattern, and it looks like there is some depth in here.
http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/2.51-carat-h-color-vs1-clarity-sku-256012