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Asscher assistance

DJ_Roch

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 27, 2020
Messages
10
Hey guys, I'm looking to purchase a 1.75-1.85 carat Asscher soon for my favorite girl and was aiming for E/VS type level. After an initial visit to assess criteria (1.5 carat indeed too small on this shape), I'm returning to take a look at the following diamonds this Friday at a reputable LA diamond district dealer (IOTR) - any clues for which is cut best?

1. 1.81-carats, F-color, VVS1-clarity, 62% table, 65.3% depth; 6.92mm x 6.89mm x 4.50mm

2. 1.80-carats, E-color, VS2-clarity, 60% table, 66.8% depth; 6.72mm x 6.71mm x 4.48mm

3. 1.83-carats, F-color, VS1-clarity, 61% table, 66.6% depth; 6.74mm x 6.73mm x 4.48mm

4. 1.85-carats, E-color, VS1-clarity, 62% table, 68.1% depth; 6.84mm x 6.83mm x 4.65mm

(priced $18k to $15k)

I realize I don't have GIA certificates (yet) or online videos either, but much appreciate any help! I will ask the associate for assistance with windmills and steps on Friday too.

DJ
 

carebear999

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 23, 2020
Messages
8
Hi! Sorry I can't help with the specific diamond specs, but I recently purchased a pretty square emerald cut from a jewelry store in Los Angeles. You might want to check them out too. Platt Jewelry, they have an instagram page too
 

monipod

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 25, 2019
Messages
466
I can only share with you that Asschers are very hard to judge by numbers. There are no perfect depth or table percentages. I've been wowed by stones that had huge tables (comparatively) and fairly shallow depth. It comes down to how well they've been cut.

I don't know if you need to pay the extra $ for F/VSS1 (VS1 should be clean enough for Asschers) but if the first stone is well cut and looks good, I'd pay the money for that. I'd be cautious about the VS2 but if the stone is largely clean and no inclusion is obviously reflecting all over the place AND it's gorgeous, I'd be open to it too.

Sorry to not be much help but Asschers are the one cut that really needs videos.
 

Karl_K

Super_Ideal_Rock
Trade
Joined
Aug 4, 2008
Messages
10,425
View them in as many lighting conditions as possible.
Pay attention to the under table area that is what usualy makes a great asscher or a blah one. Most of them will look good outside the table area.
Nice patterns static with blow your socks off play of light(scintillation) is what your looking for in them.
 

Big Fat Facets

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 7, 2019
Messages
1,193
View them in as many lighting conditions as possible.
Pay attention to the under table area that is what usualy makes a great asscher or a blah one. Most of them will look good outside the table area.
Nice patterns static with blow your socks off play of light(scintillation) is what your looking for in them.
@Karl_K

Great Advice Karl!!! Thank YOU!!!!
 

DJ_Roch

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 27, 2020
Messages
10
Ok, I will be cautious about the VS2 range. This dealer had 20 or so diamonds in this size/criteria of which I picked these 4 but frustratingly only has the 1, E/VS1 which is at the lower end of the price spectrum. I'll be curious why that is.

Thanks @Karl_K!
 

Karl_K

Super_Ideal_Rock
Trade
Joined
Aug 4, 2008
Messages
10,425
Ok, I will be cautious about the VS2 range. This dealer had 20 or so diamonds in this size/criteria of which I picked these 4 but frustratingly only has the 1, E/VS1 which is at the lower end of the price spectrum. I'll be curious why that is.

Thanks @Karl_K!
At one time and even today chosen carefully vs2 stones are just fine.
How it gets a bad name is there are some huge eye visible inclusion vs2 step cuts that have been floating on the lists for years.
I would not dismiss a vs2 and even a rare clean si1/si2 now and again pops up especially if shopping in person
I like to use the jewelers microscope to find the inclusion then see if I can see it out in the real world, rotating and under different lighting.
They will often be visible when viewing the totality sideways but they are usually covered by the most settings.
 

DJ_Roch

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 27, 2020
Messages
10
Update after my visit to Icing on the Ring - really glad I got to see them in person! specs really don't tell you much until you see them in the flesh. honestly, it's very hard for me to judge cut on asschers in person as a non-expert, especially without a loupe, so professional help was worth it.

the first diamond, highest price of the 4, was really dark for an F. the E/VS2 had a flaw that to my eye (under a loupe) was too close to the center and the associate agreed and said it was an objectionable VS2. the final two were quite close, despite a 2k difference in price, so we had the master jeweler take a look at cut and sure enough that's why the more expensive one to my eye radiated more. it had more even facets, compared to thicker ones towards the table edge on the cheaper one (i think that's the lingo). both were quite nice, but that's an easy call and the difference in color wasn't eye significant.

i probably should have asked to see the D/VVS2 just for kicks, but it was significantly out of my budget.

the only thing I see on the GIA certificate on the F/VS1 I chose is a slightly larger culet - is that a big issue?
 
Last edited:

OoohShiny

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 25, 2014
Messages
7,973
Culet size is a totally personal thing. Yoram at Gemconcepts (pictures on instagram and his website) cuts large cults in a vintage style - and they act to create an additional 'mirror' in the stone for light to bounce off at certain angles.

Any leakage from a cult will be lost in the sparkle from the stone, and/or just be part of its character, IMO :)
 

gregchang35

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Sep 11, 2012
Messages
2,987
Culets are a personal preference.
Glad that you got to see the stones in person.
It sounds as if you found the stone.

the only comment I will make is- make sure that this is they style of cut your significant other appreciates....

So much fun!!!
 

monipod

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 25, 2019
Messages
466
Great! I'm glad you got to see them. I thought most modern Asscher cuts have a pointed culet? I know some antique Asschers have culets and Alex Park is working on getting some lab stones cut as step-cuts and his cutter favours having culets. As others have said, it's personal taste. I lean towards pointed.
 

DJ_Roch

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 27, 2020
Messages
10
Thank you so much on the culet comments - my associate said similar things about really just being a preference. i probably lean pointed as well, but its not a deal breaker.

As far as why I chose this cut, she's a math teacher and likes a vintage feel on some things - and even has requested rose gold for wedding bands. I thought this would be a little different from the normal round and fit her personality. I also looked at oval and emerald cuts, but felt the Asscher made more sense.

as an fyi - prices are around 10% higher than the common online retailers. some say there is a 30%-40% difference but that was not the case here. there are some store policies that are good as well including 100% trade-up, annual reconditioning, etc.
 

MarionC

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 9, 2013
Messages
6,246
For me, the culet adds personality and feels less generic. Are you going to surprise her with the ring? Or could she decide if she is a fan of culet vs. pointed?
 

monipod

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 25, 2019
Messages
466
Interesting! Here are the modern (lab) stones by Parks Fine (Alex) that were cut with culets:

http://instagr.am/p/CEN2mI0FBQI/
I like the vintage look of culets but my personal preference is for pointed.

I would very much like to see your stone! If you go ahead with it, please post some photos/vids!
 

DJ_Roch

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 27, 2020
Messages
10
that's a really interesting culet - it seems quite a bit larger than the diamond I'm looking at, but hard to compare without side by side videos
 

DJ_Roch

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 27, 2020
Messages
10
There was one last asscher from my dealer's list that was still bugging me, so I asked for a GIA certificate - funny enough, here is the exact stone:


Ultimately I passed as the small inclusion is right near the center. It's $1k more at BN than here locally- go figure.

So...now have option #3 being set in a rose gold solitaire :) Thank you guys for the help!
 

DJ_Roch

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 27, 2020
Messages
10
well, got lucky that the wildfire smoke cleared last weekend so we could get engaged at Lacy Park in Pasadena - and she said yes! the Asscher was a perfect stone for her afterall and the size is quite nice on the finger. she loves the hall of mirrors effect. here are some photos:

IMG-4850.JPG IMG-4849.JPG IMG-4836.JPG
 

Big Fat Facets

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 7, 2019
Messages
1,193
it just beautiful!!!

congratulations on a successful proposal!! it really looks so perfect on her hand!!

well done and bravo to you!!

may you embark on a wonderful life journey, together, as an engaged couple and eventually, as man and wife!!!

blessings and best wishes to you and your fiancee!!
 

Slick1

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
2,611
Gorgeous ring!! Congratulations to you both!!
 
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