Art deco diamond bracelet - material? To buy?

[hunde]

I came across this very interesting, stunning bracelet in my local antique shop. Collection of old european, rose, single and carre (?) cut diamonds. It appears barely ever worn, it's heavy at 55g, the center stone measures 6.5mm.

The problem I have with this is that it's not hallmarked and the seller is not an expert with antique jewellery / jewellery in general (sells more antique furniture) but happened to acquire this from an elderly client together with furniture. This client said the bracelet is from South Africa. The shop owner is saying it's most likely 14k white gold but typically this era didn't use white gold did it? It looks beautifully finished, I love the milgrain but the back looks a bit more simple. It doesn't look silver to me but could it be or is it most likely platinum?

I put it on hold now till the end of the week.

Any thoughts / ideas / concerns?

 

[kgizo]

Is there a return policy so you could purchase and get an appraisal?

 

[hunde]

Is there a return policy so you could purchase and get an appraisal?

Unfortunately there isn’t. The price is quite good though as the diamonds look nice and there must be at least 6-7 carats worth of them. The center is about 1ct and the ones above and below are about 0.5ct each.

 

[YadaYadaYada]

I can understand no returns because that is typical with antique and pawn shops. However, I would want some proof of metal content, it’s not unreasonable to want proof that it is as sold. How did they determine its 14k? Perhaps that could be repeated in front of you? If they aren’t willing to do that then I would absolutely ask for a return policy in the event it isn’t as described. Get whatever agreement in writing.

If they aren’t willing to prove their claims then it becomes a matter of how much of a gamble are you willing to take? FWIW if the metal content can be verified and the price is fair for metal weight and diamond weight, I might take a chance. Maybe see if you can get 20% off, offers are typically welcome, even if they won’t give you 20, maybe 15.

It is a beautiful bracelet and the milgrain looks pretty pristine. 14k wouldn’t necessarily raise an alarm because I have a Traub Orange Blossom ring that should be 18k or platinum, but it’s 14k, and I know it’s not a repro.

 

[hunde]

I can understand no returns because that is typical with antique and pawn shops. However, I would want some proof of metal content, it’s not unreasonable to want proof that it is as sold. How did they determine its 14k? Perhaps that could be repeated in front of you? If they aren’t willing to do that then I would absolutely ask for a return policy in the event it isn’t as described. Get whatever agreement in writing.

If they aren’t willing to prove their claims then it becomes a matter of how much of a gamble are you willing to take? FWIW if the metal content can be verified and the price is fair for metal weight and diamond weight, I might take a chance. Maybe see if you can get 20% off, offers are typically welcome, even if they won’t give you 20, maybe 15.

It is a beautiful bracelet and the milgrain looks pretty pristine. 14k wouldn’t necessarily raise an alarm because I have a Traub Orange Blossom ring that should be 18k or platinum, but it’s 14k, and I know it’s not a repro.

Thank you for your input! Reassuring to know about your original 14k piece.

He did an acid test on it and said it’s at least 14k. But I wasn’t convinced, he doesn’t seem to know his jewelry.

I think he would be ok to put his claim that it’s gold in writing. I also thought I’ll have a look myself if I could buy a gold test kit to bring with me on Friday when I go back.

He isn’t budging on the price, it is really fair, maybe even in the too good to be true category if the metal checks out.

 

[glitterata]

That won't be silver. No tarnish, and they weren't setting diamonds in silver any more by the time they made that. If it's a precious metal, it's white gold or platinum, and it looks way too finely made to be a base metal. It looks beautiful and right to me, just going by the photos. What part of the world are you in, and how strong are your consumer protection laws if it's not what he says it is? Really, though, the most likely possibility is that it's what he says it is or better (platinum).

 

[hunde]

That won't be silver. No tarnish, and they weren't setting diamonds in silver any more by the time they made that. If it's a precious metal, it's white gold or platinum, and it looks way too finely made to be a base metal. It looks beautiful and right to me, just going by the photos. What part of the world are you in, and how strong are your consumer protection laws if it's not what he says it is? Really, though, the most likely possibility is that it's what he says it is or better (platinum).

Thank you! I'm in Europe so especially if I get things in writing, I should be well enough protected to get my money back. He's selling it for about 3000 USD so maybe I should just risk it and bring it home with me tomorrow.

 

[Pinkmartini87]

Ok I’ll be brave and be the lone Debbie Downer lol. If I may chime in, and PLEASE take what I say with a grain of salt (just a hobbyist and a random person on the internet going by a few photos!): something about this doesn’t ring true for a real Art Deco piece to me. It’s beautifully made but the milgrain is too pristine for a piece over 100 years old, and the borders are a touch thick and jump out too much to me. And the overall look is a bit skeletal aka more empty space, joints and metal heavy to the ratio of “stuff” (diamonds, engravings, etc). Also the quality/cut/shape of diamonds as best I can tell really runs a wide range whereas for an upscale true deco piece they would try to match them a bit closer to each other. Lastly, it’s super underpriced if it’s a true deco piece. Anyone now days with a computer even someone not “great” at jewelry would be able to do a simple internet search and find comparable Deco pieces for vastly more. This price of $3k is more commensurate with an Art Deco style piece. I just don’t buy the “ignorant at jewels” excuse from sellers anymore. But then again I’m a pessimist and may be missing out on hidden deals/steals. To me $3k is too high an amount to risk based on all the above reasons.

Here’s a very reputable vendor and their examples of presumed true Art Deco pieces:

Search results for: 'Art deco bracelet'

www.langantiques.com

Again, one person’s subjective call! And I openly admit it’s so hard now days to distinguish between true antique jewelry vs antique inspired.

Also, some folks may choose purposely to purchase a Deco inspired piece—and this is quite beautiful!- and save some $$$ (why pay the premium of a true Deco piece unless that is truly important to the buyer)

 

[Pinkmartini87]

Also, how is the clasp? If it’s tight and smooth like a new door hinge, likely newer and can help to date piece. With wear, clasp should be not tight, maybe a touch clunky. Unless the clasp was replaced.

 

[LilAlex]

The shop owner is saying it's most likely 14k white gold

Who in the world sells precious metal jewelry and does not know if it is base-metal, silver, gold, or platinum? Biggest red flag in the whole world, imo. Might as well buy off eBay...

 

[Ionysis]

This definitely looks like a repro piece to me, not antique. But that’s fine as long as you’re not paying antique premium.

 

[hunde]

This definitely looks like a repro piece to me, not antique. But that’s fine as long as you’re not paying antique premium.

Who in the world sells precious metal jewelry and does not know if it is base-metal, silver, gold, or platinum? Biggest red flag in the whole world, imo. Might as well buy off eBay...

Ok I’ll be brave and be the lone Debbie Downer lol. If I may chime in, and PLEASE take what I say with a grain of salt (just a hobbyist and a random person on the internet going by a few photos!): something about this doesn’t ring true for a real Art Deco piece to me. It’s beautifully made but the milgrain is too pristine for a piece over 100 years old, and the borders are a touch thick and jump out too much to me. And the overall look is a bit skeletal aka more empty space, joints and metal heavy to the ratio of “stuff” (diamonds, engravings, etc). Also the quality/cut/shape of diamonds as best I can tell really runs a wide range whereas for an upscale true deco piece they would try to match them a bit closer to each other. Lastly, it’s super underpriced if it’s a true deco piece. Anyone now days with a computer even someone not “great” at jewelry would be able to do a simple internet search and find comparable Deco pieces for vastly more. This price of $3k is more commensurate with an Art Deco style piece. I just don’t buy the “ignorant at jewels” excuse from sellers anymore. But then again I’m a pessimist and may be missing out on hidden deals/steals. To me $3k is too high an amount to risk based on all the above reasons.

Here’s a very reputable vendor and their examples of presumed true Art Deco pieces:

Search results for: 'Art deco bracelet'

www.langantiques.com

Again, one person’s subjective call! And I openly admit it’s so hard now days to distinguish between true antique jewelry vs antique inspired.

Also, some folks may choose purposely to purchase a Deco inspired piece—and this is quite beautiful!- and save some $$$ (why pay the premium of a true Deco piece unless that is truly important to the buyer)

Thank you so much for your input! Really appreciate it.

I went back and forth this weekend with the seller and ended up not purchasing it. I took my own diamond tester with me and louped the stones too, they were real at least and quite nice but not great. Especially the middle stone was poorly cut old European. Some of the rose cuts were really nice though.

The stones would’ve been worth the price alone but the seller gave no guarantees as to the material. Overall it just looked so pristine and brand new.

The clasp was also very smooth.

Maybe I missed a great bargain here but I never really loved it, just liked it, especially because it was so affordable.

 

[kgizo]

Sounds like you made the right decision. Something will come along that you love and it would be unfortunate if you couldn’t get it because funds were tied up in this bracelet. Happy shopping!