Any recommendations for a repair on vintage sapphire band?

[meesmom]

Hello all!
My first impulse is to ask Caysie of CVB, but i dont even know if she does repairs.
I bought this ring a couple months ago, but it is a bit too tight, and has a repair that id like to have redone. 2 stones have been replaced, so the channel has been cut to accommodate. The new stones are glued in with epoxy (its that amber colored material i see from time to time). The repair is actually very well done and almost invisible, but since the ring is too small anyway, i wonder if removing the 2 stones and adding a platinum bar would be a good idea, to add a 1/4 size or so. Then it would be a 3/4 eternity. My other thought was rebuilding the entire ring, but this ring is really lovely and so well made, it would be a shame. Any ideas who could do this old girl justice. TIA!!

 

[Polyhex]

cjd_sako on Instagram specializes in antique jewelry repairs, many of which are posted on his IG. He's rebuilding a Belle Epoque setting for me right now.

 

[meesmom]

cjd_sako on Instagram specializes in antique jewelry repairs, many of which are posted on his IG. He's rebuilding a Belle Epoque setting for me right now.

Can you post a link to what you are having done? Id love to see if you have any images!! May I ask if his work is expensive? Im kinda on a budget. Thanks for the recommendation!!

 

[Polyhex]

Can you post a link to what you are having done? Id love to see if you have any images!! May I ask if his work is expensive? Im kinda on a budget. Thanks for the recommendation!!

Private progress pic from him after the bezels were rebuilt but before the melee is set. No official pics from him since it's not done yet.



I would say so far based on a previous project that his work is moderately expensive. He is cheaper than working with a brick and mortar store where you are paying a middle man on top of a bench jeweler (he IS the bench jeweler.) But he's more expensive than other bench jewelers you could work with if you had access to them (ex: if you could physically go to 47th street and find the bench kiosks that take cash-only work from the public) because he specializes in antique restoration. He's responsive on Instagram so I'm sure he'd give you a quote before taking the work.

Where are you located?

 

[Rfisher]

@meesmom
Very pretty rings!

I bought a Victorian cluster ring from someone who bought it from CVB. I contacted Caysie to ask about restoration (changed my mind about originally using it for parts ) She advised me I’d be better off going directly to Sako, just as @Polyhex suggests. As she’d just add on more charges to me as a middlemam.
Sako did do a wonderful job on mine.
If you want to resto your ring - and are in a budget - my advice is to really think about what your budget is vs finding a similar ring that will fit you and selling this one. I’m not sure he’ll be able to pinpoint a quote to you without seeing it in hand, tho?
He did stay under my top dollar I was willing to spend - so that’s a discussion you’ll need to initiate if you have a strict budget, and possibly reiterate it to be sure?
Sako does do beautiful work.

Crap picture but you can see the repolish and prong work
He does have his own strong ideas on how things should be done /look. That’s not necessarily a bad thing - just not the same as other vendors who execute your exact vision without question or input.

 

[Polyhex]

@meesmom

Sako does do beautiful work.

Gorgeous ring, not remotely crap photos! I'm so glad you decided to restore it rather than scrap it for the stones, it's an amazing work of art!!

 

[meesmom]

Private progress pic from him after the bezels were rebuilt but before the melee is set. No official pics from him since it's not done yet.



I would say so far based on a previous project that his work is moderately expensive. He is cheaper than working with a brick and mortar store where you are paying a middle man on top of a bench jeweler (he IS the bench jeweler.) But he's more expensive than other bench jewelers you could work with if you had access to them (ex: if you could physically go to 47th street and find the bench kiosks that take cash-only work from the public) because he specializes in antique restoration. He's responsive on Instagram so I'm sure he'd give you a quote before taking the work.

Where are you located?

Wow that ring is gorgeous!! when the melee is set, it will be spectacular!
I am in northern NJ. Really, i just dont want to spend thousands on restoring a ring that i plan to wear less than once or twice a week, if that. Id like to spend only a few hundred. But i do want good quality work...am i asking too much?

 

[meesmom]

@meesmom
Very pretty rings!

I bought a Victorian cluster ring from someone who bought it from CVB. I contacted Caysie to ask about restoration (changed my mind about originally using it for parts ) She advised me I’d be better off going directly to Sako, just as @Polyhex suggests. As she’d just add on more charges to me as a middlemam.
Sako did do a wonderful job on mine.
If you want to resto your ring - and are in a budget - my advice is to really think about what your budget is vs finding a similar ring that will fit you and selling this one. I’m not sure he’ll be able to pinpoint a quote to you without seeing it in hand, tho?
He did stay under my top dollar I was willing to spend - so that’s a discussion you’ll need to initiate if you have a strict budget, and possibly reiterate it to be sure?
Sako does do beautiful work.

Crap picture but you can see the repolish and prong work
He does have his own strong ideas on how things should be done /look. That’s not necessarily a bad thing - just not the same as other vendors who execute your exact vision without question or input.

Wow that is such a lovely ring! I love the prong work!!!

I actually like jewelers who have stong opinions, i feel lots of times i find out what i thought i wanted would not have worked in reality, haha.

I did consider selling it, and trying to finx another, but its really hard to find french cut sapphires, and this band is so exactly what i wanted. It would be hard to let go.

 

[Rfisher]

Wow that is such a lovely ring! I love the prong work!!!

I actually like jewelers who have stong opinions, i feel lots of times i find out what i thought i wanted would not have worked in reality, haha.

I did consider selling it, and trying to finx another, but its really hard to find french cut sapphires, and this band is so exactly what i wanted. It would be hard to let go.

Thank you! I wanted more tab like prongs like the original had, but the claws he did are quite lovely!

I get totally what you mean, about your ring being a hard find and wouldnt be easy to let go.

My worry (if me) would be someone trying to do ‘just enough’ to size up a ring like yours to keep the labor cost low, and not put time/labor into rebuild/rework the entire thing to ensure it’s stability. It could become a nightmare with loose stones?
It’s a hard call!

I forgot to add earlier - I know others have had DK restore items beautifully for them before. On a case like my cluster and all those prongs - he said it would be cheaper to build a new ring.
Sako’s final price was quite pleasant compared to a quote for a new ring.

I’d love to see more photos if your ring and the two stones you speak of? How much larger sized do you want it?

 

[Polyhex]

Wow that ring is gorgeous!! when the melee is set, it will be spectacular!
I am in northern NJ. Really, i just dont want to spend thousands on restoring a ring that i plan to wear less than once or twice a week, if that. Id like to spend only a few hundred. But i do want good quality work...am i asking too much?

I don't think you are looking at thousands. If I were you I would give the bench jewelers you are considering your budget and ask if it can be done for that.

Do you go into NYC regularly? If you do, and you are looking to get the absolutely lowest price, I could get the contact info of a bench jeweler in one of the big 47th street buildings who does extraordinary work for very little money. The tradeoff is he only deals in person and in cash. (Very sadly for me since I no longer live in NYC. My family has been my courier a few times.)

 

[Rfisher]

Gorgeous ring, not remotely crap photos! I'm so glad you decided to restore it rather than scrap it for the stones, it's an amazing work of art!!

Thank you!
I’m kinda ashamed of myself, that I was thinking that way in the beginning.....

 

[meesmom]

Im a sucker for claws!!
You nailed my biggest fear...i do want to find someone who could tell me honestly if its doable or not. I would consider just getting it remade, but its such a nice vintage piece, and i hate to destroy it. I would like to try to make it better..
Heres some pics. The 1st shows the epoxy on the inside of the band. The others show the adjustments that were made to the metal.

Please excuse my nails..i broke one today and just cut them all short , lol

 

[meesmom]

I don't think you are looking at thousands. If I were you I would give the bench jewelers you are considering your budget and ask if it can be done for that.

Do you go into NYC regularly? If you do, and you are looking to get the absolutely lowest price, I could get the contact info of a bench jeweler in one of the big 47th street buildings who does extraordinary work for very little money. The tradeoff is he only deals in person and in cash. (Very sadly for me since I no longer live in NYC. My family has been my courier a few times.)

Ugh i wish!! I hardly ever go to NYC (and i live less than 45 min away). My husband cant stand it but I love it. but I'm not originally from the area, so i dont think i'd venture it all by myself. Im too much of a country mouse!
But thank you for the offer! I know of a similar jeweler in boston, my mom got so much custom made jewelry and it always appraised at least double what she paid.

 

[Polyhex]

But thank you for the offer! I know of a similar jeweler in boston, my mom got so much custom made jewelry and it always appraised at least double what she paid.

It's so annoying that kind of bench jeweler only seems to be in the largest cities!

 

[lala646]

@Polyhex, if you're willing, I would love the name of that bench jeweler. I work (during normal circumstances) in Midtown, and would love to have someone I could trust to take some of my projects to. Here's a LT listing of mine:

Art Deco two tone 14k gold OEC Diamond Circle Brooch | Loupe Troop

loupetroop.com

 

[meesmom]

It's so annoying that kind of bench jeweler only seems to be in the largest cities!

I know!! It was all bought during a 5 year period where my dad worked in boston. So....she went to his office every chance she got!!

 

[Polyhex]

@Polyhex, if you're willing, I would love the name of that bench jeweler. I work (during normal circumstances) in Midtown, and would love to have someone I could trust to take some of my projects to. Here's a LT listing of mine:

Art Deco two tone 14k gold OEC Diamond Circle Brooch | Loupe Troop

loupetroop.com

Absolutely!! He's incredible, I will email you today!

 

[meesmom]

I just emailed Sako, i will keep you posted!

 

[meesmom]

Ok so its been awhile, but i need to make a decision on this band, and i need so advice!
So I emailed Sako and he really thought it would be able to be fixed, but never sent me a price. So a few months passed, and I reached out to him again. We decided that i should send the ring in. I did, and come to find out the ring is not repairable. He told me the metal is too thin to be repaired.
The cost to rebuild is way out of reach for me at this point, and I really dont think it would be worth it in the long run. (I would have over $2000 invested in this band if i did the remake). Sako just emailed me an alternative...he could make 2 1mm plates and attach them to the sides of the band (where the engraving is in the above photos). He says this will protect the integrity of the band and it will last a long time. Has anyone had this done? Id love to get some advice and hopefully before and after photos. My main issue is 2 1mm plates will add 2mm to a band that is almost 3mm to begin with...not sure if i will like that.

 

[elizat]

I have not had that type of repair done, but if he is saying that it cannot be repaired safely other than that method, I would trust him.

He does restoration for tons of dealers.

I don't know if it would be aesthetically pleasing, or comfortable, but perhaps you can ask him to draw a photo or do some sort of illustration for you?

 

[meesmom]

I have not had that type of repair done, but if he is saying that it cannot be repaired safely other than that method, I would trust him.

He does restoration for tons of dealers.

I don't know if it would be aesthetically pleasing, or comfortable, but perhaps you can ask him to draw a photo or do some sort of illustration for you?

Oh i absolutely trust what he says. The metal is very thin, and it is very old. I was just wondering if anyone had any feedback on how this type of repair looks, and/or was it worth it it them. Or should i just sell the ring (as Sako has confirmed the sapphires are natural Ceylon) as is and start fresh with a new band?
I will ask him if he has any photos, thanks!

 

[elizat]

Oh i absolutely trust what he says. The metal is very thin, and it is very old. I was just wondering if anyone had any feedback on how this type of repair looks, and/or was it worth it it them. Or should i just sell the ring (as Sako has confirmed the sapphires are natural Ceylon) as is and start fresh with a new band?
I will ask him if he has any photos, thanks!

I think the problem with selling it is that you know it's got structural integrity issues now. I don't know what you paid for it, but I would feel like you would need to disclose that for sure.

Maybe save the stones for later and have the band rebuilt?

He is my go-to guy, but there are vendors that could make a band for you at a lower cost than him.

 

[meesmom]

I think the problem with selling it is that you know it's got structural integrity issues now. I don't know what you paid for it, but I would feel like you would need to disclose that for sure.

Maybe save the stones for later and have the band rebuilt?

He is my go-to guy, but there are vendors that could make a band for you at a lower cost than him.

Oh yes thats what i meant! I would totally disclose that it is carefully wearable in its current state, but not repairable. The sapphires are real and french cut, so i thought it might be worth something to someone....
Yes the price i was quoted for rebuild was quite a lot, and understandably so. Im not really into a rebuild esp. since weve had some unexpected extra costs regarding an addition we are putting on our house. So im kinda up to: 1) keep the ring as is 2) sell or 3) do the repair and hope i like it.

 

[Rfisher]

Would you put the quoted money into completely rebuilding, ever, down the road?
If so
Is there a temporary fix with glue/epoxy (with obviously no guarantee from Sako or whomever did it) that you would consider?

The shoring up of the sides is intriguing but I’d sure like to see an example first.

 

[meesmom]

Would you put the quoted money into completely rebuilding, ever, down the road?
If so
Is there a temporary fix with glue/epoxy (with obviously no guarantee from Sako or whomever did it) that you would consider?

The shoring up of the sides is intriguing but I’d sure like to see an example first.

The ring has been temporarily fixed by its previous owner. It has epoxy holding 2 stones in and it bugs me, bc they cut the channel to epoxy them in. Every time i wear the ring ( which hasnt been often) that chewed part is facing up and i can see it.


I would say a rebuild is possible, but i feel like at that price point, i could get a whole new band from CVB.

 

[yssie]

The ring has been temporarily fixed by its previous owner. It has epoxy holding 2 stones in and it bugs me, bc they cut the channel to epoxy them in. Every time i wear the ring ( which hasnt been often) that chewed part is facing up and i can see it.


I would say a rebuild is possible, but i feel like at that price point, i could get a whole new band from CVB.

OMG. Who “fixes” a gemstone band with glue!? My heart hurts for this poor mutilated little band

My biggest concern with these plates is... If it’s visible then I know that I personally would always focus on it. Every time I put the band on, that’s what I’d see, and I’d be too annoyed by that to ever want to put the band on. So for me - the fix would be a waste of good money. But everyone’s different! If you assume that the fixed area will be visibly different from the rest of the band - would you be able to enjoy the band or would it bother you?

 

[CSpan]

I realize your ring is already with Sako but you might reach out to Otten and Vallot Ovidiamonds.com. You may want to call and just get a second opinion. They do repair and reconstruction for insurance and service a number of jewelry stores. Randy was able to straighten out the channel in my ER halo and re did the milgrain to the point I can’t tell which side was repaired. They are much older gentlemen and may have ideas or techniques for restoration. Just a thought.

 

[meesmom]

OMG. Who “fixes” a gemstone band with glue!? My heart hurts for this poor mutilated little band

My biggest concern with these plates is... If it’s visible then I know that I personally would always focus on it. Every time I put the band on, that’s what I’d see, and I’d be too annoyed by that to ever want to put the band on. So for me - the fix would be a waste of good money. But everyone’s different! If you assume that the fixed area will be visibly different from the rest of the band - would you be able to enjoy the band or would it bother you?

I think the previous owner, not wanting to invest too much into the ring, took it to a local jeweler, and they repaired it this way. From the top view, its not that bad, but it bugs me. I bought it under the assumption that i could fix it. I guess not, tho!
From the way it was described to me, the fix would be a plate that went all around the outside of both sides. Picture the washer that goes inside your kitchen faucet. And yes and thats exactly what concerns me, that i will not like it esthetically, that it will be way too thick for my finger, and therefore unstackable. This fix is not exactly cheap and im concerned bc i dont want to put more money into a sinking ship.....ugh.

 

[meesmom]

I realize your ring is already with Sako but you might reach out to Otten and Vallot Ovidiamonds.com. You may want to call and just get a second opinion. They do repair and reconstruction for insurance and service a number of jewelry stores. Randy was able to straighten out the channel in my ER halo and re did the milgrain to the point I can’t tell which side was repaired. They are much older gentlemen and may have ideas or techniques for restoration. Just a thought.

Thanks for the recommendation!
The only ovi diamonds i can find was this website: http://www.vendio.com/stores/ovidiamonds/
Is this them?

 

[yssie]

TBH if you have doubts and Sako doesn't have any photos of prior fixes on hand for you to check - I'd cut my losses. Sapphire french cut bands aren't common but they also aren't rare - there's another out there that's ready to wear, if you're comfortable waiting for it to show up.

I'd save the stones from this rather than resell - you'd have to disclose the damage and that both dramatically narrows your prospective audience and demands a dramatic price drop. You could turn these stones into another band, bar earrings, a bracelet, sidestones... One day, no rush...