Hello! I have a antique sapphire cluster ring that needs repair. I've been told it dates to c. 1900. It has a large (5+ carat) pale blue sapphire surrounded by rose and old mine cut diamonds. The stones are set in white gold and the band is yellow gold.
The ring is very special and sentimental to me and I was recently horrified to see that one of the diamonds had fallen out. Tragically, the stone is lost and will need to be replaced. I'm working on getting over that trauma; everyone in my family assures me it will be fine, but I know I won't feel that way until it has been fixed. Honestly, I probably should have found a jeweler sooner to look at the condition of the prongs, but I checked the setting regularly myself and everything seemed secure.
I'd love to get some general advice on repairs. Can anyone recommend a good bench jeweler in the NYC or NY area that is familiar working with antiques? I know a lot about these materials and I work in art conservation, so I know exactly what needs to be done, but am having trouble finding a reputable jeweler with this type of experience. And after reading many horror stories about repairs gone awry, I am hesitant to entrust this piece to just anyone. That being said, I know there must be many talented artisans out there who could do this type of repair.
If anyone has any advice on what questions to ask potential jewelers, those are also welcome. I'm assuming I need someone who has access to a laser for this type of repair as I'm concerned that retipping the prongs with traditional solder will not hold up well for this piece. Thoughts?
Also, I'd like to avoid rhodium plating the prongs if at all possible, but what are your thoughts on rhodium plating antiques? I'm leaning toward more of a repair than a full restoration. The prongs are really worn, so I think that fixing the prongs will already change the aesthetic of the piece a little, but I'd like the ring to be wearable on a regular basis, so I think a large percentage of the prongs will need to be improved a little.
Also, any tips on sourcing a replacement rose cut diamond?
Many thanks in advance!
The ring is very special and sentimental to me and I was recently horrified to see that one of the diamonds had fallen out. Tragically, the stone is lost and will need to be replaced. I'm working on getting over that trauma; everyone in my family assures me it will be fine, but I know I won't feel that way until it has been fixed. Honestly, I probably should have found a jeweler sooner to look at the condition of the prongs, but I checked the setting regularly myself and everything seemed secure.
I'd love to get some general advice on repairs. Can anyone recommend a good bench jeweler in the NYC or NY area that is familiar working with antiques? I know a lot about these materials and I work in art conservation, so I know exactly what needs to be done, but am having trouble finding a reputable jeweler with this type of experience. And after reading many horror stories about repairs gone awry, I am hesitant to entrust this piece to just anyone. That being said, I know there must be many talented artisans out there who could do this type of repair.
If anyone has any advice on what questions to ask potential jewelers, those are also welcome. I'm assuming I need someone who has access to a laser for this type of repair as I'm concerned that retipping the prongs with traditional solder will not hold up well for this piece. Thoughts?
Also, I'd like to avoid rhodium plating the prongs if at all possible, but what are your thoughts on rhodium plating antiques? I'm leaning toward more of a repair than a full restoration. The prongs are really worn, so I think that fixing the prongs will already change the aesthetic of the piece a little, but I'd like the ring to be wearable on a regular basis, so I think a large percentage of the prongs will need to be improved a little.
Also, any tips on sourcing a replacement rose cut diamond?
Many thanks in advance!
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