Advice on size ration for a trilogy ring

[Roselina]

I favour 1:2:1 up to about 1.3:2:1.3
This is based on what sells and not what an individual prefers.
For example a 2 ct center with 0.5 ct each side is a solitaire with shoulder diamonds that would best be set slightly lower and possibly with more tilt - axis radiating to the center of the ring.
The side stones should be set a little lower.
A classic 3 stone has the girdles almost touching and the axis of the diamonds usually points to the bottom of the band.

That is exactly how mine is set. I always thought of it as classical three stone ring. But makes sense!

 

[mrs-b]

Hi @Wkmg - I'm Mrs-B, and I'm the resident 3 stone queen! Well, there are probably a few of us here who fit that description, so maybe 'addict' is a better description! I've had upwards of a dozen different 3 stone rings - all commissions - all different proportions and all different diamond suppliers and jewelers.

Firstly, let me say,1.25 - 1.5ct for the center is a lovely size. She'll get some terrific finger coverage with that. Can I ask what size her finger is? That will possibly help us advise you.

Just as a starting point, let's assume middle of the road finger size - size 6. With a size 6 finger and a 1.25-1.5ct center, she could carry sides of any size, so that's not going to be an issue. The Tiffany 3 stone works on the 1 / 2 / 1 ratio, but personally, even for a 3 stone with substantial sides, I find that swallows the center a tad.

So if you want substantial sides ,but you still want an elegant circle around the finger, I'd suggest a ratio of .4 / 1 / .4. For ease of math skills, let's assume a 1.3ct center. That would mean .52ct / 1.3ct / .52ct. Here's a photo of one of the most beautiful 3-stones I've ever seen, which uses those proportions. It's made by a very good jeweler called Leon Mege. The diamond sizes are .46ct / 1.2ct / .46ct.





For these rings to look natural and fluid on the finger, you need to work with your jeweler to ensure a couple of things. Firstly, that the stones are set close together. Gaps between the stones break up the flow.

Secondly, that the prong work is delicate and well formed. The stones need to be secure, but it can still be light. To that end, I'd recommend dealing with a recommended PriceScope vendor - someone we know for a fact can do this sort of work. There's a range of vendors here who do good prong work, so that's an easy ask.

And thirdly (and this is where I see most 3 stone rings fall down), the side stones have to be angled so they follow the curve of the finger. If they're not angled sharply enough, it ends up looking like...for want of a better expression!...a stick laying across the top of the wearer's finger. A very pretty stick made from diamonds, granted, but a fairly unnatural looking hard line that doesn't flatter the finger. Jewelry needs to look like it was made for the wearer and is tailored to their hand. That's the sort of jewelry that always looks best. And - believe me! - it sounds obvious, but it's actually very rare.

To that end, specifically for this job, I'd recommend Victor Canera. He does beautiful prong work, can work with you on whatever ratio you choose, and will angle those side-stone babies like nobody's business, giving you a breathtakingly elegant look! He's an upmarket jeweler, but his prices are excellent for the product you receive. He's hugely personable and very quick and has an excellent aesthetic.

My second last piece of advice would be - don't skimp on quality here. A 3 stone will give you good finger coverage at almost any size, so if you need to drop down a little for whiter, more well cut stones and to afford a better jeweler to make it - then do it. Make it as beautiful and special as you can, and she will be proud of it and love it forever. You really are talking about one of the all time beloved, classic ring designs here; whatever effort you put into it will be returned to you in your fiancee's pleasure.

Lastly - use great diamonds. Personally, I'd go through WhiteFlash and buy 3 of their A Cut Above diamonds in the colorless / VS range (and if you look at my ring in my avatar, that's exactly what I did do). If that's outside the budget, G color would be a safe choice, but if you're setting in platinum, colorless (D-F color) would be gobsmacking and quite the show-stopper. I'd tell them your size parameters and your budget and let them pick them. On a 3 stone, you can't afford for one to be 'not quite like the others' - it will bug you and your fiancee for the rest of all time.

I wish you well with your choices and am sure this will be a much loved jewel. Good luck!