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Advice Needed - OECs with Antique Setting

General_Files

Rough_Rock
Joined
Apr 2, 2020
Messages
4
Hi PriceScope -

I am a noob boyfriend in search of advice. My girlfriend has settled on an OEC, preferably in a true antique gold setting. My research shows there are not many vendors carrying a lot of true antique OEC rings.

All my initial research was done on round brilliant cuts from James Allen/Blue Nile, and I understand OECs are different in that there are no cut grades, lower color grades are more acceptable because the stone was cut to emphasize color rather than brilliance and that OECs are harder to judge from paper or photos. That being said because of COVID, I would still like to get the ball rolling on my education even though I cant see stones in person right now.

Here are two rings that I know are right up my girlfriends alley. I would appreciate any advice on what I should be looking for with these stones based on the available pics and videos and any OEC judging/value advice generally. I'm also curious how best to read the certificates for OECs with proportions and what the bottom end for color is (is M/N pushing it??). I've read up on some other threads and because I am focused on an antique setting, am probably not looking to buy a loose OEC stone.



Video: https://www.instagram.com/stories/highlights/17980538308290702/
GIA: https://www.gia.edu/report-check?reportno=5202858182




GIA: https://www.gia.edu/report-check?reportno=5191251343

Thanks all for your help!
 
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LightBright

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Mar 11, 2013
Messages
710
Both are nicely cut, likely antique OEC diamonds. The first is slightly lighter in color grade (i cant see the cert) and I like the cut of the first diamond slightly better (higher crown, smaller table, lighter color maybe even a different body tint). I also like the tapered setting better. IMO the settings are not authentic. Victor Barbone has nice rings, but I think both settings are reproductions. It’s just a hunch I have because most OECs of that style and size were usually set in iridium platinum. It is VERY unlikely for you to find a diamond of those sizes in an antique gold OR platinum setting.

So if authenticity is important you might want to look more at antique jewelry dealers that sell whole pieces. However, I think the first ring is really delicate and pretty, the diamond is well cut and nice and its a solid choice. There was a thread about a month ago on Victor Barbone’s pricing and it was discussed that their prices are reasonable for diamond plus setting, eg not a huge deal but not overly expensive either.
 
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General_Files

Rough_Rock
Joined
Apr 2, 2020
Messages
4
Both are nicely cut, likely antique OEC diamonds. The first is slightly lighter in color grade (i cant see the cert) and I like the cut of the first diamond slightly better (higher crown, smaller table, lighter color maybe even a different body tint). I also like the tapered setting better. IMO the settings are not authentic. Victor Barbone has nice rings, but I think both settings are reproductions. It’s just a hunch I have because most OECs of that style and size were set in iridium platinum. It is VERY unlikely for you to find a diamond of those sizes in an antique gold OR platinum setting.

So if authenticity is important you might want to look more at antique jewelry dealers that sell whole pieces. However, I think the first ring is really delicate and pretty, the diamond is well cut and nice and its a solid choice. There was a thread about a month ago on Victor Barbone’s pricing and it was discussed that their prices are reasonable for diamond plus setting, eg not a huge deal but not overly expensive either.
Thanks very much! You are correct that the first ring is lighter. It is M and the second is N.

The Victor Barbone site states that these are authentic antique settings and not new VB vintage-inspired new settings. Is there reason to believe that may not be true? Here are additional pics of the settings that I think show they may in fact be antique. Curious for your thoughts? Agree it seems to be difficult to find true patina'd antique settings and many of the rings on that site are new vintage-inspired settings.

At 2.68 ct / M / VS2, is $18.5k within reason? The second ring is 1.64 ct / N / VS2 at $11.5k. I feel the more expensive ring is actually the better value. Interestingly, I thought the second less expensive diamond had better optics but it sounds like you prefer the first.




 

1ofakind

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Aug 22, 2012
Messages
500
It is true that antique OEC’s often have a lower color grade But not all. Has you fiancé seen an M or N color diamond?
The second thing I’d suggest double checking is the culet size she prefers.
 

General_Files

Rough_Rock
Joined
Apr 2, 2020
Messages
4
It is true that antique OEC’s often have a lower color grade But not all. Has you fiancé seen an M or N color diamond?
The second thing I’d suggest double checking is the culet size she prefers.
We have not looked at diamonds in person so she has not seen an M or N (or compared at all to higher colors). I know that the top priority is size and true antique "charm", so I expect warmth in color consistent with standards for diamonds from this era (early 20th century?) will be fine.

With respect to cutlet size, do you think that showing her cutlets in photos and asking about size will be sufficient? It seems only when its really noticeably too big and draws attention could it be problematic?
 

Queenie60

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Sep 15, 2014
Messages
4,266
I would suggest you and your fiance look at many OEC's to determine what she likes. There are different patterns to OEC's and the warmer colors look beautiful with the chunky faucets. Wishing you luck in finding the right stone.
 

headlight

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Nov 2, 2003
Messages
2,246
I think you also need to consider prongs... the 2 rings have very different prongs. Would be good to her profile view of each.
 

1ofakind

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Aug 22, 2012
Messages
500
It’s all very subjective. I would be hesitant to purchase an M or N if you haven’t seen them. Some people find they are very color sensitive even when it comes to antique diamonds.
Same with culet...I love them, even off center and wonky as you wil often see in antique diamonds. But there is a point when they just get too big for me...others say the bigger the better.
Both are difficult to gauge unless you can see them in person, see how the color plays in different lighting.
 

Lessics

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jan 6, 2019
Messages
331
Most people here will tell you that you and your gf need to look at several diamonds in different colors to decide what she really wants. Yes on the one hand that’s true on the other hand most people here are almost obsessive (me too) about diamonds and jewellery. So if your girlfriend isn’t jewellery obsessed and just wants an antique ring with an oec then you DON’T have to spend time looking at several rings and diamonds.
The only thing I would check on is if she’s okay with a slight yellow tinge. But if she wants to maximize size then she will have to accept that she won’t get a DEFGHI Colored Diamond.

If she is interested in jewellery I would go out and look at different rings as it could be fun and every antique ring is so different (not like a standard round brilliant Tiffany ring).
If I hadn’t started being super interested in jewellery I would have ended up with a beautiful N colored 2.56 OEC. But because I love researching I went on pricescope and even though everybody said the diamond was nice I also heard a lot of „be sure about the color“ etc.. So in the end one year later I’m still looking for the perfect OEC - even though the first beautiful one would have been just fine - but now I want to get the best diamond In the size I want and I’ve become obsessed about the small details.

So If you had the engagement talk and you both know down the road you will become engaged - then I would sit her down (make it special like a inside date over a nice Dinner) and ask her how much say she wants in the ring - if she would like to look at rings together and decide on what color she want etc. (when quarantine stops - or maybe online through videos) or if she prefers not to be included (with the risk that she can’t discuss diamond color and setting preferences and diamond pattern (OECs can have a flowery pattern or a more checkerboard pattern)).

If she doesn’t want to be included it’s easy get the M colored diamond if you can afford it as it’s bigger and whiter and I personally like the setting more (just kidding).
 

Moonie

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Mar 10, 2020
Messages
101
I ended up choosing an M colored OEC from Mark Broumand and he's doing a custom setting for me as well. I agree that seeing them in person is super helpful because it confirmed that I'm not very color-sensitive at all. I'm sure if I saw it right next to a D-E-F I may have noticed some differences, but consider that when GIA grades stones they're not looking at it face up, and when I compared the M that I chose with an I and a J, I really couldn't tell.

I've also met Victor Barbone in person (fun fact - she is a woman and Victor is her grandfather's name!) and she's absolutely lovely. Now that I've done so much research on Pricescope and beyond I realize that you can find a better deal but she has some lovely true antiques, including the Riley.
 

LightBright

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Mar 11, 2013
Messages
710
Hi, to answer your question, I don’t believe the ring settings you posted are true antiques. I have been looking at antique rings for many years. Most OECs of that period were put into iridium platinum. These VB settings are not platinum, they seem patinated in an odd way to me, the color of the gold seems too coppery, and they seem less finished inside than most old settings. They feel like modern replicas to me. Another way to tell is to look at the quality of the side stones. Those look like I1 side stones. That isn’t typical either. I could be wrong, but i strongly feel these are repro.
 
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LightBright

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Mar 11, 2013
Messages
710
Honestly, if you are your loved one are interested in antique stones and rings, I’d decide what is it you want. To be VERY frank, most antique diamond settings from the Art Deco and Edwardian time are big and clunky. That is what a true antique setting for one of these old diamonds will likely look like. It seems you like simple Solitaire settings, and that’s great. I personally feel like you should identify the apx. SIZE, COLOR and CUT you want in an antique diamond. And look for a diamond with those qualities. Then look for a setting. Sometimes you can actually buy empty antique settings which you can put your stone in. The other option is to have a recommended jeweler just do a simple solitaire setting for your diamond to your taste. This way you get the diamond you want and the setting you want. True antique diamonds in their original settings are VERY OFTEN sub two carat gems. If you want larger, you likely will have to find a loose antique diamond.
 

LightBright

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Mar 11, 2013
Messages
710
Parks Fine Group on Instagram has some very well priced antique and antique style diamonds (note he has both, i think) in his inventory. I would personally stay L color and above, but there may be some Ns that have a clean tint (not overly orange or green) and which can look nice. This seller has large and small diamonds, all kinds of cuts and colors. Many are worth looking at and learning from. He also has some examples of antique style diamond rings he’s helped couples create. I adore his in house well designed settings. He can be tricky to interact with, and that’s another story, but for inventory, he’s got a nice selection that up until this COVID19 crisis refreshed a lot. For a newbie and someone who is price sensitive, Parks Fine Group would be a good start to just look at diamonds and setting styles in the type of style you seem to have selected so far. Just my opinion, take with a grain of salt. The other amazing vendor I’ve recently been impressed with is Sin City FInds, but she’s got fewer large solitaire style diamonds. She MAY be able to find you something, though and her own settings are really lovely. I also think most of her stuff is authentic and she’s got a phenomenal eye. Again, IMO. Take with a grain of salt. Victor Barbone is also a nice site, but maybe SLIGHTLY higher priced and I’m definitely confused about their “authentic” settings.
 

oldworlddiamonds

Rough_Rock
Trade
Joined
Jan 14, 2009
Messages
20
Lower colors in genuine antique stones face up beautiful and actually nicer in most cases over higher colored stones (more colorless). The tiny bit of warmth brings out the beautiful pattern and rainbow colors. My personal favorites are J-P :)
 
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