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Stone or ring first?

SouthernGent

Shiny_Rock
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Dec 5, 2018
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I'm a newbie to gemstones and am looking to get a men's ring made with either a blue zircon or blue topaz stone in it. My wishes are for the ring to be a fairly unobtrusive "signet style" with the stone sitting transversely (east-west).
What I need to know is do I search for a stone that I like first and then take it to a jeweler in hopes that they can find a setting that I like and will accommodate the stone? Or do I need to find a suitable setting first and then a stone to fit it?
I have attached a picture (hopefully) of a couple of rings that are similar to what I am looking to design.
Any feedback and guidance is greatly appreciated.
il_570xN_1267019116_jc72.jpg thumbnail.jpg
 

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qubitasaurus

Brilliant_Rock
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You need to locate the stone first, then the setting. It is much easier to commision a setting to be tailored to your stone's measurements than it is to cut the stone to fit the existing setting.

Just a point of consideration -- both topaz and zircon will chip and abrade moderately easily. Do you plan to be gentle on this ring?
 

SouthernGent

Shiny_Rock
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Just a point of consideration -- both topaz and zircon will chip and abrade moderately easily. Do you plan to be gentle on this ring?
Uh oh - no, actually I don't plan to be particularly gentle as I hope to wear it pretty much every day and only remove it when I'm doing construction work or mechanic work. Are there other vibrant blue stones that I should consider?
And thanks for your response and guidance.
 
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AV_

Ideal_Rock
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What you have in mind is very much my style. I have worn such a ring with a cabochon for a long time 24/7 until both gold and sapphire got a distinct patina - good fun up to a point... Then, the ring could be polished without removing the stone. (ring since lost).

A sapphire cabochon could be very nice. Lapis is the other classic deep blue.
The price difference is silly between the two.
 

SouthernGent

Shiny_Rock
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SouthernGent

Shiny_Rock
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if you're considering using a stock setting as opposed to 100% custom, i'd still look for the stone first but figure out which "calibrated sizes" will work for you and use that to narrow your search. your jeweler should be able to help you figure that out but here's an example:
https://www.gemselect.com/english/calibrated-size/calibrated-size-chart.php
That's very helpful.
If I end up going custom...or HAVING to go custom....what is a ballpark figure on how much something similar to what I've posted pictures of would cost to design?
 

AV_

Ideal_Rock
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Half-joking:

WWW

WWW

Little change ... & for good reason.

Nevermind the prices there. A few shops would make such a simple ring for their stones, sometimes without advertising such service.
 

bludiva

Ideal_Rock
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That's very helpful.
If I end up going custom...or HAVING to go custom....what is a ballpark figure on how much something similar to what I've posted pictures of would cost to design?

it's going to vary a lot by jeweler and type of metal...i'd maybe get a couple of quotes while you start looking around. my guesstimate would be over 1k for 14k gold but i really don't know!
 

MakingTheGrade

Super_Ideal_Rock
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A lot of the cost will be in gold weight which will depending on how thick and wide the band will be and what your finger size is.

I’d imagine in the 1k area as well at least assuming it’s in 14k gold.

I recently commissioned a bezel style setting for a 2ct size stone in 18k and the estimate was 900$. I imagine yours would be more due to increased gold weight.

Did you have a specific budget in mind?
 

lambskin

Ideal_Rock
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Either an oval or a EC will look good for a E-W gent's ring. So find the right stone in either shape. I did this for my ER as I could not decided between these two cuts. Eventually an oval stone spoke to me and I do not regret the decision.
 

SouthernGent

Shiny_Rock
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Dec 5, 2018
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Well, fortunately I found a ring setting that I really like. It looks like it would provide lots of light to highlight the stone while still providing adequate protection for the stone for everyday wear . What do y'all think? custom_46.jpg
 

Arcadian

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Well, fortunately I found a ring setting that I really like. It looks like it would provide lots of light to highlight the stone while still providing adequate protection for the stone for everyday wear . What do y'all think? custom_46.jpg

Gorgeous! love the ring. sometimes though the stones you love don't come in a calibrated size (have the tshirt and the ring settings...lol)
 

SouthernGent

Shiny_Rock
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Here's the latest.
received_327379837856360.jpeg OK, I talked to a jeweler friend of mine today and he found me this stock setting that I think I can live with. If I don't go with a stock setting, we will have to do a CAD design plus a casting fee, which would be a total of $450 before we even started talking about the price of gold.
He said this setting would need a 10x8 emerald cut stone, so the search is now on!
 
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