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Selecting diamond under .7 carat - tips for best value

DanerBananer

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 21, 2019
Messages
34
I’ve been lurking and researching, wanting to upgrade my center diamond. I do love my overall ring, my husband bought it from Kays a few years back.


Center diamond came with the ring, most likely just under .5 carat. Not eye clean, the table is visibly rough and overall not the sparkly fire I’m wanting.

Per the Kays website the setting can hold a diamond up to .68 carat. I do have small hands (4.75).

I’ve mostly been looking through Brian Gavin and Blue Nile. Max budget probably around 3.5k, not hung up on color and of eye clean inclusions don’t bother me either.


I’m liking this one, but would I be able to find one that had equal appeal with the name for a better price? Thanks all!

7DC2627D-6E21-4D01-B484-BF7F7A5203F8.jpeg 7CE2FAD5-AF8E-45B9-A191-62E62030A275.jpeg
 

sledge

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 23, 2018
Messages
5,791
We all have different ideas of value. I am in the camp that a super ideal stone like the BGD you found, or possibly another super ideal from a vendor like WF or HPD offers superb cut quality so you never have to worry about it having enough fire.

But more than that, they make the process very easy. They have all the data on their websites to make a good educated decision. If you've been searching BN then you realize they normally give you a cert and pic/video, but that's about it. And not all them will have pics/videos. More importantly, the super ideal vendors provide you with an ASET and hearts & arrow (H&A) images to help you confirm the light performance and symmetrical precision of their stones.

That said, it's quite possible to source a stone doing it this way. You can request the ASET and H&A images but they are likely going to tell you none are available.

Also, while it may or may not be important to you, the upgrade policy with BN is the least favorable of the vendors I've mentioned.
  • WF = Get 100% of original price by spending just $1 more and no other restrictions
  • HPD = Get 100% of original price by spending just $1 more and no other restrictions
  • BGD = Get 100% of original price by spending just $1 more and upgrading 2 of the following 3 C's: color, clarity or carat weight
  • BN = Get 100% of original price if you spend 2x the original amount
In many ways, buying from a super ideal vendor is like pushing an "easy button". You know you will get an ideal cut, they will take good care of you and they all offer good upgrade programs, even if there is some variance amongst them. Also, in this case, you can send in your existing setting and they will set the stone for you.

To purchase a stone from BN or another internet vendor, you can save a few bucks but you need to follow these guidelines:
  • Look for stones within these proportions:
    • 54-57 table
    • 60-62.4 depth (prefer <62)
    • 34-35 crown (maybe 35.5, if paired with a 40.6 pavilion)
    • 40.6-40.9 pavilion (maybe 41, if paired with a 34 crown)
    • 75-80 lower girdle facets (aka LGF)
    • Ensure the crown & pavilion angles have an inverse relationship (steep crown/shallow pavilion or vice versa)
  • Run an HCA score on each stone. Stones with a 0-2 are worth considering. Possibly some stones in the 2.5 range may be worth it, depending on cut quality and symmetrical precision. For e-rings, consider 1-2 more favorably.
  • Request an ASET or idealscope (IS) image to confirm light performance.
  • Request a H&A image to confirm symmetrical precision.
  • If no advanced imagery is available, determine if proportions and HCA give you the warm fuzzies to order and evaluate with your own eyes (and possibly your own scopes).
  • If it checks out, great, you are done.
  • If it doesn't check out, then return, get a refund and start over.
 

sledge

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 23, 2018
Messages
5,791
For comparison against the BGD stone, here is a stone from BN that is of similar size, color and clarity.

0.65ct D VS2 @ $2,704

This stone has very promising proportions: 56 table, 61.3 depth, 34.5 crown, 40.8 pavilion & 80 LGF

Additionally the stone has a nice 1.1 HCA score. I'd just remind you that because of rounding & averaging, we can't rely 100% on proportions. Worst yet, the HCA makes assumptions about potential light performance based on the certs, so while it's a really good guess, it's still just an estimate.

But that said, it's passed two of the steps. I'd ask for the advanced images, which again, they will probably say no to but it's free to ask. If you don't get them, you would have to make a gut call about rather it's worthwhile to purchase and then analyze in your home. If you do this I'd get an ASET scope at the least so you could confirm light performance. If you splurged and got a H&A scope as well, it'd cost you about $100 or so in scopes.

Most likely this stone will be a decent performer, even if it's not perfect. That angle combo is really good and not too often do you have leakage, etc. However, that is just spit balling. Until we see an actual image and/or the stone with our eyes we are just making assumptions. But overall, it may be a stone worth consideration.

Capture99.PNG
 

ringo865

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Feb 14, 2014
Messages
2,897
I can’t tell from your picture what the prongs holding the center diamond look like. A qualified jeweler may be able to set a stone larger than Kay’s website says. I also couldn’t see any specs on the side stones in that Neil lane setting. They’re probably I1 or I2.

That said, if you get a stone from Whiteflash or Brian Gavin, it may make your existing setting appear dull/dingy in comparison to your sparklebomb new diamond.
 

KKJohnson

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 15, 2017
Messages
1,834
You need to ask what the mm size of stone the setting can hold as this does differ from stone to stone. With your budget you can definitely get a super ideal diamond.
 

tyty333

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 17, 2008
Messages
27,237
My recommendation, since you are not hung up on color, go lower in color and save yourself some money. I think anything down to a G
(which is supposedly the most common color people buy) would be a good option. In a super ideal stone it will still be super white. Of course
you should go look at well cut GIA or AGS graded stones in your area to find out your color tolerance. Dont look at colors side-by-side. Look at them
individually and decide if its white enough for you.

Also if you think you might upgrade in the future and you go with BGD it will make it hard to upgrade 2 things if you go high on color and clarity now.*
Perhaps something like this

I would go find a good local bench and ask them how big your setting will hold. If they can put a new peghead in you might be able to go larger.
I know it is limited by the scallops around the head but it would be good to know.

Before you actually put any money out on a stone make sure you talk to whoever you plan on buying the stone from to make sure they can/will modify
your current setting.



*A lot of people, at the time, dont think they will be upgrading but come 3-5-10 years down the road what do you know?
 

DanerBananer

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 21, 2019
Messages
34
Thanks for all the tips! I've been lurking since posting. I went to a locally owned jewelry store and they confirmed with ordering a new peghead I could go up to .6 carat without the diamond looking ridiculous. I decided to upgrade my diamond to a nicer cut but keep a small size. I then have a right hand ring in the works to choose a larger diamond.

Anywho, my whiteflash diamond came today for the setting pictured here. Don't mind my jacked up nails I love it, and it's slightly smaller than my current diamond but spread wise will appear the same. I think HCA score was .9. Thank you everyone
 

DanerBananer

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 21, 2019
Messages
34
Ill try to add video later. I need to read the tips on photographing diamonds! Category: A CUT ABOVE®
Carat: 0.404
Color: I
Clarity: VS1
Shape: Round 20210304_141048.jpg

 
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