Purchased H&A Cushion through BGD, now onto setting with DK

[tr0janman]

Hey PS fam,

Thought I'd provide you with an update in my search for a nice diamond and ring for my wonderful SO. Through the help of Emily from BGD and of course the great folks here over at PS (I've learned so much over the past few weeks just ODing on this addictive information), I found this one, a 1.348 G-VS2 H&A cushion diamond:

https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/.../1.348-g-vs2-cushion-diamond-ags-104101952009

I feel like my girlfriend is really going to love it because of how it blends the shape of the cushion with the brilliance of a round. She really wants a cushion btw, and definitely doesn't like crushed ice and also many modern cushions. This one though, it checks off a lot of the boxes. I guess it could be bigger but this rabbit hole is never-ending I really feel like I got a great deal for it compared to something like:

https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/.../1.253-g-vs1-cushion-diamond-ags-104066027011
https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/.../1.518-h-si1-cushion-diamond-ags-104095878003

So I followed in the footsteps of @sledge and also decided to go for a DK setting. I was initially thinking a kind of a paved floral basket type of setting because I felt like I wasn't spending enough on the diamond. Something like this:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BXQqb0qAnRY/

DK has been gracious and has sent over 3 CADs already based on my notes and revisions:

CAD #1


I thought this looked a bit squatty and wanted this to have a cathedral; therefore this one below:

CAD #2


this one, i wasn't a fan of the the cathedral going directly into the middle triangle bar, so I asked what it would be like if we went without the pave and cathedral again and having a more exaggerated floral setting with a donut underneath the diamond.

CAD #3


Ah and here is the inspiration for the prongs from the face-up view. It's another one of DK's Jewelry and has the prongs itself kind of look like leaves which I thought was a very nice subtle touch.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BinWXRBF7zD/

I like this last one, but I still kind of want the "petal prongs" to reach all the way to the top kind of like the first CAD. I'd love to hear your thoughts PS!

 

[rockysalamander]

I think that with her wanting that cushion outline, it may be lost in a 4-prong setting if you go with prongs. I think a subtle under-halo like the Dantela from Tacori would be a lovely overall look, but also really reinforce the cushion shape.

I'd have a open-pave halo with our recommended 20 degrees downward tilt and blend that with your cathedral setting with the open paves, you have a winner. The shank could be like the James Allen Falling edge pave, the head is the Dantela but with a single pave halo.

 

[tr0janman]

I think that with her wanting that cushion outline, it may be lost in a 4-prong setting if you go with prongs. I think a subtle under-halo like the Dantela from Tacori would be a lovely overall look, but also really reinforce the cushion shape.

I'd have a open-pave halo with our recommended 20 degrees downward tilt and blend that with your cathedral setting with the open paves, you have a winner. The shank could be like the James Allen Falling edge pave, the head is the Dantela but with a single pave halo.

Ah interesting, you think the cushion outline of the cushion diamond would get lost in a 4-prong setting? @foxinsox recommended this to me the other day in a different thread

What is a downward tilt? What are we tilting here?

So I was thinking of not doing the pave anymore because my gf has expressed her love of a more classic look. She does think pave is very pretty but if I know her well enough, I believe she's really hinting towards a non pave

 

[rockysalamander]

Ah interesting, you think the cushion outline of the cushion diamond would get lost in a 4-prong setting? @foxinsox recommended this to me the other day in a different thread

What is a downward tilt? What are we tilting here?

So I was thinking of not doing the pave anymore because my gf has expressed her love of a more classic look. She does think pave is very pretty but if I know her well enough, I believe she's really hinting towards a non pave

The tilt is to tilt the halo stones -20 degree from level. This makes the halo much prettier from the side (which is what you will see). You can eliminate the pave on the shank and still have a halo.

IMHO I think H&A cushion tend to look more like a round unless there is something to emphasize the cushion shape. If the halo does not do it for you, you could use a bezel or 4-rounded tabby prongs.

You can also us an underhalo since from the top the metal rim will emphasize the shape if placed carefully. Terrible example.
https://www.diamondmansion.com/unde...6ppj9Q7crD-rPgaljVktxA_314l7AaiQaAqAVEALw_wcB

Another option is using a mild split shank to make the shape of cushion more explicit tool (top view here).
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/avc-reset-with-david-klass.245994/

 

[mrs-b]

Hi @tr0janman -

I think you'll need to go with your own taste on this, predominantly because I think there's a zillion ways of styling a setting and there's at least that many opinions on each one! My own feeling is that the style in the CADs you've posted (ie corner prongs) is the best possible way of emphasizing the cushion shape, and it's one of my favorite settings, due to its elegance and understated nature.

So I'm with @foxinsox on this. I'm also not a fan of under-halos. To me, they add 'bitsy' detail around the center stone, blurring the outline, and if your girl is hinting towards no pave and a cushion shape, then it seems to me she wants a stripped back look with modern-classic lines.

I think your stone is lovely and i think your ring will be awesome! Good luck!

 

[tr0janman]

@mrs-b @rockysalamander Yeah I'm kind of going for something similar to this:



I love how subtle this flower basket setting is and adds just enough flair while still looking completely classic from the face up view. But instead of the face up view looking like this with the double claws:



More leaf shaped like this DK setting:



but alas, I don't know. I'm not sure what would accentuate the cushion shape better. I've seen lots of examples with antique cushions and double claws. I have yet to see any cushions with this leaf-like prong setting.

 

[sledge]

Wow, so cool to see another journey similar to mine @tr0janman!

I really had a great and enjoyable experience working with both BGD and DK. I expect you will too as both are excellent companies. Oddly enough, Amy happened to shared that David and Brian were actually childhood friends so they have a very good working relationship with each other as well.

There is one thing in the process I would have changed. I elected to not look at the diamond until it was set and shipped to me as a whole unit from DK. If I got a re-do I'd have BGD ship it to me so I could inspect and ask for a return envelope so I could mail back for safe keeping until DK needed it. I'm guessing this would cause an extra shipping charge.

On the CAD's, here's my 2 cents:

1. I don't like the head on CAD #3 at all. Something about the way it has the base tulip and the prongs that look like they were an after thought and added doesn't sit well. It needs more continuous flow IMO.

2. Slight and very gradual taper so the band gets more skinny as it approaches the diamond. It will make the stone look larger.




3. Merge the band with donut from CAD #3 with the head from CAD #2. You will need to squish/lower the head down to the 5.80 (maybe lower) as the 7+ height looks like a skyscraper. Nix the melee since you/she doesn't want it.




4. After the prongs join, have them split again so the top view appears as 2 prongs. Kind of a merge between a split prong & what she drew in CAD #2. Key is that split has to be wide enough to accentuate the cushion shape. Hard for me to draw & explain but I think Amy will understand and once in the CAD program will need a little liberty to make it pretty. Probably the prongs I tried drawing on the right is closer to how I have it envisioned in my head.

 

[rockysalamander]

I love the last picture for the prong tips. That is more like pointy tab prong, which was my next idea. @sledge suggests the opposite where the doubles are retained to create the width than narrowed. I'm partial to the wider pointy tab prongs, but you make that call. Either way, you want the widest portion of the prongs to follows the cushion outline on the outside perimeter. So, on @sledges
last markup, I'd want the outside of the prongs more rounded and parallel with the cushion perimeter. Below is another example of my idea.

With single prongs, just eliminate the double prongs and take that tall petal (V-is facing up) and make it the pong. I don't think the double prongs flow well from the design you posted from LM). His work is very elegant usually, I just don't think that is my fav. There is a setting where the prongs are a bit more woven from the sides, but I can't find that right now. (I'm supposed to be working...).

 

[rockysalamander]

Ok. Found what I wanted. This is the CVB Inspired Design Dahlia. What if the prongs were like this, but half of them were kept below the girdle (red are the lower ones)? This gives you a lovely shape from the top but retains the floral elements you liked. Look at that top view!

 

[kal2021]

@mrs-b @rockysalamander Yeah I'm kind of going for something similar to this:



I love how subtle this flower basket setting is and adds just enough flair while still looking completely classic from the face up view. But instead of the face up view looking like this with the double claws:



More leaf shaped like this DK setting:



but alas, I don't know. I'm not sure what would accentuate the cushion shape better. I've seen lots of examples with antique cushions and double claws. I have yet to see any cushions with this leaf-like prong setting.

I LOVE that setting (first two photos)! I actually think it’s perfect and it sounds like your intended would prefer to not have the pave, which I agree with - the stone pops against the pure platinum band! I even love the double claw prongs on it which normally I wouldn’t. Is that setting by DK?

 

[tr0janman]

Wow, so cool to see another journey similar to mine @tr0janman!

I really had a great and enjoyable experience working with both BGD and DK. I expect you will too as both are excellent companies. Oddly enough, Amy happened to shared that David and Brian were actually childhood friends so they have a very good working relationship with each other as well.

There is one thing in the process I would have changed. I elected to not look at the diamond until it was set and shipped to me as a whole unit from DK. If I got a re-do I'd have BGD ship it to me so I could inspect and ask for a return envelope so I could mail back for safe keeping until DK needed it. I'm guessing this would cause an extra shipping charge.

On the CAD's, here's my 2 cents:

1. I don't like the head on CAD #3 at all. Something about the way it has the base tulip and the prongs that look like they were an after thought and added doesn't sit well. It needs more continuous flow IMO.

2. Slight and very gradual taper so the band gets more skinny as it approaches the diamond. It will make the stone look larger.




3. Merge the band with donut from CAD #3 with the head from CAD #2. You will need to squish/lower the head down to the 5.80 (maybe lower) as the 7+ height looks like a skyscraper. Nix the melee since you/she doesn't want it.




4. After the prongs join, have them split again so the top view appears as 2 prongs. Kind of a merge between a split prong & what she drew in CAD #2. Key is that split has to be wide enough to accentuate the cushion shape. Hard for me to draw & explain but I think Amy will understand and once in the CAD program will need a little liberty to make it pretty. Probably the prongs I tried drawing on the right is closer to how I have it envisioned in my head.

Wow, awesome feedback @sledge! I agree about the continuous flow. Here were my follow up notes:



But sometimes, I don't know..when I look at this image I kind of love how it sits under the girdle. But I want it slightly higher. Like have it just reach the girdle.



Regarding your point 4, it sounds a bit like you're recommending a V prong? I think the original 2 CADs intention for the prongs was to have the leaf style pointy tab prong I provided above. This is why it looks like two tubes are converging onto the tip of the prong

I also thought about a tapered look but instead asked David for 1.8mm band instead of a 2.0 that I would've had if I had the pave. The cushion diamond has a 6.42mm width and height.

 

[tr0janman]

I love the last picture for the prong tips. That is more like pointy tab prong, which was my next idea. @sledge suggests the opposite where the doubles are retained to create the width than narrowed. I'm partial to the wider pointy tab prongs, but you make that call. Either way, you want the widest portion of the prongs to follows the cushion outline on the outside perimeter. So, on @sledges
last markup, I'd want the outside of the prongs more rounded and parallel with the cushion perimeter. Below is another example of my idea.

Right?! I love the leaf style prongs also, they're very unique and a nice touch to an already flower based basket setting.

With single prongs, just eliminate the double prongs and take that tall petal (V-is facing up) and make it the pong. I don't think the double prongs flow well from the design you posted from LM). His work is very elegant usually, I just don't think that is my fav. There is a setting where the prongs are a bit more woven from the sides, but I can't find that right now. (I'm supposed to be working...).

Mm, are we on the same mindset here? I'm also supposed to be working... I posted my notes to DK above. Yeah I myself am not too fond of it turning into double claw prongs either, it feels exactly like what it is: a claw is coming out of a flower, which is..odd? frightening? I'm thinking perhaps just make the petal go just up to the girdle and turn into the leaf prong.

 

[tr0janman]

Ok. Found what I wanted. This is the CVB Inspired Design Dahlia. What if the prongs were like this, but half of them were kept below the girdle (red are the lower ones)? This gives you a lovely shape from the top but retains the floral elements you liked. Look at that top view!

Whoa this is amazing. I need to think about this..

 

[tr0janman]

I LOVE that setting (first two photos)! I actually think it’s perfect and it sounds like your intended would prefer to not have the pave, which I agree with - the stone pops against the pure platinum band! I even love the double claw prongs on it which normally I wouldn’t. Is that setting by DK?

Ah so this photo is from LM! I agree it certainly is beautiful and is very clean. Here's a video in case anyone is curious:

 

[rockysalamander]

This is another version similar to the CVB with a less floral twisted gallery - Torchiere by Mark Morrell. This is a less vintage looking version that ends in single prongs.




This is a version with double prongs that seem to emerge smother from the twisty bits.

 

[SimoneDi]

The LM setting inspiration is stunning

I have had one of BGD’s cushions and I will vote a double prong for the setting. I personally like the pave version. I had my cushion in a simple solitaire and started longing for “something more” after a while, but if your girlfriend prefers a solitaire, then that would be the right choice.

 

[kal2021]

Ah so this photo is from LM! I agree it certainly is beautiful and is very clean. Here's a video in case anyone is curious:

Wow! Gorgeous. Doesn’t hurt that it’s featuring a 3.5 carat diamond!

 

[tr0janman]

The LM setting inspiration is stunning

I have had one of BGD’s cushions and I will vote a double prong for the setting. I personally like the pave version. I had my cushion in a simple solitaire and started longing for “something more” after a while, but if your girlfriend prefers a solitaire, then that would be the right choice.

Yes I remember reading in one of your previous posts that you had the BGD cushions somewhere and you felt it was a bit roundish anyways!

So I went from the setting inspiration from enchanted diamonds called Mulberry:




and deciding that in fact I think I don't want it to have too high of a cathedral after seeing the LM setting. It changed my perspective on what I wanted, especially with my gf really hinting about her love of classics. We went to NYC Diamond District together for fun and tried on rings together.

If I can have my way, I'd make sure she gets an amazing antique cushion with an awesomely engraved setting from DK, but she seems to really like h&a cushions.

She said pave is so pretty and there's just something about the classic. As a guy, I know I'm stupid sometimes because it's so tough for us to pick up on subtle hints that our awesome girlfriends give out to us. So, if I know my girlfriend well enough, I can hear it in her voice that she prefers classic over pave...hopefully

 

[tr0janman]

An update from DK! So excited.



I think this is really close to what I had in mind and a nice twist on the LM. I asked for even more of a blend of petal to prong so we'll see what he says. I appreciate everyone's input and inspirational shots of such beautiful and creative settings. He has the width of the ring at 1.9mm which will polish itself down to 1.8mm which I think is pretty dainty already as is so I'm not sure a taper itself will be necessary for the ring.

 

[tr0janman]

This is another version similar to the CVB with a less floral twisted gallery - Torchiere by Mark Morrell. This is a less vintage looking version that ends in single prongs.




This is a version with double prongs that seem to emerge smother from the twisty bits.

This is really awesome. It's so detailed and so creative. I personally love how the double claws feel so natural coming out of each triangle. It's like one continuous pipe of metal that has been twisted just right. I'm hoping this is what DK can do with our setting as well.

 

[tr0janman]

Wow! Gorgeous. Doesn’t hurt that it’s featuring a 3.5 carat diamond!

Haha not at all. It would be a shame certainly if a 3.5 ct diamond had a..not gorgeous setting.

 

[kal2021]

Haha not at all. It would be a shame certainly if a 3.5 ct diamond had a..not gorgeous setting.

Haha so true!!

 

[kal2021]

Compromise - classic e-ring setting (no pave) with a pave wedding band! I may be partial based on my own set. I wear my classic solitaire with a pave band or a 7 stone band.

Yes I remember reading in one of your previous posts that you had the BGD cushions somewhere and you felt it was a bit roundish anyways!

So I went from the setting inspiration from enchanted diamonds called Mulberry:




and deciding that in fact I think I don't want it to have too high of a cathedral after seeing the LM setting. It changed my perspective on what I wanted, especially with my gf really hinting about her love of classics. We went to NYC Diamond District together for fun and tried on rings together.

If I can have my way, I'd make sure she gets an amazing antique cushion with an awesomely engraved setting from DK, but she seems to really like h&a cushions.

She said pave is so pretty and there's just something about the classic. As a guy, I know I'm stupid sometimes because it's so tough for us to pick up on subtle hints that our awesome girlfriends give out to us. So, if I know my girlfriend well enough, I can hear it in her voice that she prefers classic over pave...hopefully

 

[tr0janman]

Compromise - classic e-ring setting (no pave) with a pave wedding band! I may be partial based on my own set. I wear my classic solitaire with a pave band or a 7 stone band.

Yes I believe this is what my girlfriend is thinking! I imagine she will wear her wedding band more often than her wedding ring. From my POV, hopefully both all the time, but I understand. She likes to savor things she likes the most if that makes sense. For example, she only busts out the chanel bag for fancy dinners/events that we go to.

Therefore, I imagine she will want more of a fun and pretty wedding band kind of like yours! Is that an eternity prong wedding band? Your setup is basically exactly what my gf would love! Classic with a party band right next to it

 

[kal2021]

Yes I believe this is what my girlfriend is thinking! I imagine she will wear her wedding band more often than her wedding ring. From my POV, hopefully both all the time, but I understand. She likes to savor things she likes the most if that makes sense. For example, she only busts out the chanel bag for fancy dinners/events that we go to.

Therefore, I imagine she will want more of a fun and pretty wedding band kind of like yours! Is that an eternity prong wedding band? Your setup is basically exactly what my gf would love! Classic with a party band right next to it

Classic with a party band - I like that!

No my pave band is not eternity it’s considered 80%. It’s actually from BGD! The Novela. I am too afraid to do eternity bands (even though I love the idea of them) for resizing purposes. You never know how your finger is going to be years down the road or post kids. Knowing I can resize gives me comfort!

https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/...ity-bands/novela-matching-band-platinum-5480p

 

[tr0janman]

Classic with a party band - I like that!

No my pave band is not eternity it’s considered 80%. It’s actually from BGD! The Novela. I am too afraid to do eternity bands (even though I love the idea of them) for resizing purposes. You never know how your finger is going to be years down the road or post kids. Knowing I can resize gives me comfort!

https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/...ity-bands/novela-matching-band-platinum-5480p

Yes a full eternity I hear is a bit tricky. Wait are both of those images the novela? It seems one of the wedding bands has larger stones? Or are my eyes playing tricks on me?

 

[tr0janman]

Yes I believe this is what my girlfriend is thinking! I imagine she will wear her wedding band more often than her wedding ring. From my POV, hopefully both all the time, but I understand. She likes to savor things she likes the most if that makes sense. For example, she only busts out the chanel bag for fancy dinners/events that we go to.

Therefore, I imagine she will want more of a fun and pretty wedding band kind of like yours! Is that an eternity prong wedding band? Your setup is basically exactly what my gf would love! Classic with a party band right next to it

Oops, I meant that she will wear her wedding band more often than her ering.

 

[SimoneDi]

Yes I remember reading in one of your previous posts that you had the BGD cushions somewhere and you felt it was a bit roundish anyways!

So I went from the setting inspiration from enchanted diamonds called Mulberry:




and deciding that in fact I think I don't want it to have too high of a cathedral after seeing the LM setting. It changed my perspective on what I wanted, especially with my gf really hinting about her love of classics. We went to NYC Diamond District together for fun and tried on rings together.

If I can have my way, I'd make sure she gets an amazing antique cushion with an awesomely engraved setting from DK, but she seems to really like h&a cushions.

She said pave is so pretty and there's just something about the classic. As a guy, I know I'm stupid sometimes because it's so tough for us to pick up on subtle hints that our awesome girlfriends give out to us. So, if I know my girlfriend well enough, I can hear it in her voice that she prefers classic over pave...hopefully

I have posted many opinions about my H&A cushion but overall I loved my cushion. For the direction in which I wanted to go, a round made more sense. The H&A cushion is a hybrid cut and it is bound to look round-ish to some viewers/in some situations, which is why I voted double claw prongs for the ring that you are creating in order to accentuate the square shape.

I remember your earlier posts now and I am glad you were able to start over with new vendors.

If you think that she will prefer a solitaire, then definitely go for that. As others have said, she can add one (or multiple) pave bands to dress up her ring later on.

If a solitaite, I really like LMs version - modern thin shank, no taper, no cathedral basket.

 

[mrs-b]

Hi @tr0janman

I love the ring you chose. I think it's elegant and will accentuate the shape of the center stone nicely. I also like the Mulberry setting - both excellent for a cushion. And I *really* like the new DKJ CADs. These are all winners and will look wonderful with your beautiful diamond.

I like a non-tapered band - but I'd be looking to keep it in the 1.9mm width, so there was a good size differential from band to head.

...and now I've just read @SimoneDi's post directly above mine and, as per usual, I agree with her totally. Her aesthetic is excellent.

The 'plain engagement ring band combined with sparkly wedding ring' is a classic combo enjoyed by a LOT of women here on PS. Given what you've said of your girlfriend's taste, this sounds perfect for her.

And if you like the new DKJ CAD, go with it. Trust your gut on this and try not to overthink it; if you like the look of it and it's what you wanted....then it probably is. This is an elegant, straightforward design; overtweaking it will just move you further away from what you originally wanted, and give you a headache! (Do not ask me how I know this.)

Good luck!

 

[sledge]

This is a version with double prongs that seem to emerge smother from the twisty bits.

You are so awesome!

When I did my post earlier I envisioned this basket/prong setup but couldn't draw it properly on the computer. I was going to sketch it out by hand and post a picture of my sketch but got tied up.

Anyhow love how you get essentially the same look as the LM and double claws but how the transition smoothly flows together. IMO this is one of those fine details that makes it look well thought out and like good craftsmanship.

Love the taper here too but also agree a thin well done band is nice too. Apparently I overlooked the 1.90 dimension, lol.

Think the DK/LM shank with this basket and prong setup will look great!