Platinum Setting = Higher Quality?

[FlashyFlamingo]

I’m just getting back into jewelry after a few year hiatus. I’ve really been drawn to antique and vintage pieces lately, but I must admit I’m no expert when it comes to picking out good older pieces. A local antique jewelry dealer in Florida suggested that I stick to buying jewelry set in 18k gold or higher and especially looking for platinum set pieces. She claimed that only costume and lesser quality pieces were set in 14k and lower. I’m not sure if she told me this to direct me towards the more expensive pieces in her collection or because there’s a nugget of truth in there. So I’m bringing it to the experts on this board. Does platinum set automatically equal a more solid, better quality piece when it comes to buying antique?

 

[JPie]

Your jeweler is mistaken. I would strongly suggest reading through Lang Antique’s Jewelry University, an extensive free resource on antique jewelry. Here’s the entry on platinum: https://www.langantiques.com/university/platinum-2/

Essentially, while platinum has been found in ancient Egyptian jewelry, it was not widely used until the late 1800s. If you’re collecting Georgian or Victorian jewelry, diamonds are generally set in sterling silver because it was thought at the time that they looked best in the tarnished metal.

Gold content in jewelry varied by where and when it was made. I’ve seen a lot of antique English pieces in 15K whereas the French seemed to use 18K more often. It certainly doesn’t mean that English jewelry must be inferior quality.

All of this can be learned by perusing the site I referenced above.

 

[Bron357]

As JPie says, older antique jewellery, in particular Georgian and earlier, was silver and gold.
Platinium came into more common use around 1910..
Total nonsense about 14k gold or lower assay being “costume jeweller or lesser quality”. Antique jewellery in Rose gold is more commonly only 9ct.
It worth pointing out that a large proportion of Platinium jewellery containing “sapphires and rubies” made in the 1920 / 1930s actually contain synthetic corundum. This was because it was easier to get a perfect colour match and at the time, man made gems were somewhat a “marvel” and “cutting edge” and expensive to buy.
Platinium is a more difficult metal to work, but it does “hold” better than gold. You are more likely to see intricate filigree work in Platinium than 18ct gold simply because high carat gold is more malleable. It bends easier.
14kt gold is seen by many as the “sweet spot”, still over 50% gold yet less malleable.
But don’t be fooled by a Platinium stamp that the gemstones are quality and natural. Paste (glass) has been found set into Platinium, especially if a gem had gone missing and coloured gems have to be considered synthetic unless tested as otherwise.

 

[FlashyFlamingo]

Your jeweler is mistaken. I would strongly suggest reading through Lang Antique’s Jewelry University, an extensive free resource on antique jewelry. Here’s the entry on platinum: https://www.langantiques.com/university/platinum-2/

Essentially, while platinum has been found in ancient Egyptian jewelry, it was not widely used until the late 1800s. If you’re collecting Georgian or Victorian jewelry, diamonds are generally set in sterling silver because it was thought at the time that they looked best in the tarnished metal.

Gold content in jewelry varied by where and when it was made. I’ve seen a lot of antique English pieces in 15K whereas the French seemed to use 18K more often. It certainly doesn’t mean that English jewelry must be inferior quality.

All of this can be learned by perusing the site I referenced above.

Thank you so much! I purchased a ring from Lang a few years ago but I had no idea that they had this treasure trove of information on their site. I’ve always been drawn to deco pieces which do seem to be set in platinum frequently but her blanket statement about anything under 18k being costume jewelry sounded a little fishy to me. Off to do some reading!

 

[JPie]

Thank you so much! I purchased a ring from Lang a few years ago but I had no idea that they had this treasure trove of information on their site. I’ve always been drawn to deco pieces which do seem to be set in platinum frequently but her blanket statement about anything under 18k being costume jewelry sounded a little fishy to me. Off to do some reading!

Happy to help! What the jeweler said about gold is just plain silly.

 

[FlashyFlamingo]

As JPie says, older antique jewellery, in particular Georgian and earlier, was silver and gold.
Platinium came into more common use around 1910..
Total nonsense about 14k gold or lower assay being “costume jeweller or lesser quality”. Antique jewellery in Rose gold is more commonly only 9ct.
It worth pointing out that a large proportion of Platinium jewellery containing “sapphires and rubies” made in the 1920 / 1930s actually contain synthetic corundum. This was because it was easier to get a perfect colour match and at the time, man made gems were somewhat a “marvel” and “cutting edge” and expensive to buy.
Platinium is a more difficult metal to work, but it does “hold” better than gold. You are more likely to see intricate filigree work in Platinium than 18ct gold simply because high carat gold is more malleable. It bends easier.
14kt gold is seen by many as the “sweet spot”, still over 50% gold yet less malleable.
But don’t be fooled by a Platinium stamp that the gemstones are quality and natural. Paste (glass) has been found set into Platinium, especially if a gem had gone missing and coloured gems have to be considered synthetic unless tested as otherwise.

Thank you so much for your reply! Something about her story seemed a little off to me. I have a feeling she was trying to steer me towards the more expensive pieces in her little shop. I’m going to have to educate myself a bit more before I start making any big antique jewelry purchases.

 

[LittleRed]

What a great link to Lang Antiques University! Thank you for posting it.