shape
carat
color
clarity

Help us with the perfect setting for our 2.14 CBI..! (CADs in)

RainbowSeekingGoat

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 9, 2019
Messages
13
After a long search for the perfect engagement stone, we end up purchasing a 2.14 G/VS2 CBI from HPD with great joy. We had been looking all around for months and reading PS >100+ hrs (possibly more). After requesting some stones to be sent to a rep close to us, seeing it, we were convinced we found the one.

Having worked with HPD for the past month, we are more than certain that we are in great hands and nothing can go wrong. We had so many questions and were answered with great patience, which really helped since this is our very first custom. Fully converted from an everything-looked-so-sparkly shopper to a fan of PS, this journey just simply won't feel complete without a thread. :dance:

The diamond is 8.33mm and I am a 4.75. Would only consider 6 prongs and we both love the classic baguette sidestones design. I have been looking for a reference ring with a crown head + baguettes but it has not been the easiest setting to find! 99% of the baguette sidestones settings out there is with 4 prongs. I did find some similar vintage Tiffanys but they were all set very low. So I photoshopped my dream set below (except that I'd like claw prongs), with simple yellow gold comfort fit 2.5/3mm band:

Screen Shot 2019-03-06 at 11.52.59 PM.png

We went through some minor changes on the CADs, and below is the third version:


Empress_frontsl.jpg Empress_profile.jpg Screen Shot 2019-03-06 at 11.11.11 PM.png

Here is the comparison between the second and the third CAD (I have asked for a lowered head and shoulders), shank is at 2.6mm at the top and close to 3mm at the bottom:

Screen Shot 2019-03-06 at 11.12.38 PM.png

(It surprised me that a mere 0.5mm height difference could change the silhouette and feel quite a bit already.)

Do you think a crown head with baguettes is odd? What do you think between the second and the third CAD? Any rooms of improvement? Anything that I didn't pay attention to? I would love to hear your wise words and comments!

:read:
 
Last edited:

SimoneDi

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 19, 2014
Messages
3,811
Congrats on your soon-to-be e-ring!

If I can be honest, I am not crazy about the crown head for the center stone with side baguettes. I love the two styles separately, but to my eyes, it seems that they clash.

If six prongs for the center stone is what you are really after, I would recommend a basket similar to the below, which in my view provides a much better transition with the shoulders and looks more modern.
B756626D-9A31-4648-A247-073D23809B3B.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • 816E7DE0-A00F-42E7-8FED-F792B73F18DD.jpeg
    816E7DE0-A00F-42E7-8FED-F792B73F18DD.jpeg
    29.1 KB · Views: 108

headlight

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Nov 2, 2003
Messages
3,302
I actually like the 3rd CAD. Very interesting! Never seen that. Very well executed. Is it 6 prong for safety?... because if so, you can do 4 prongs but as doubles so you get 8!
 

Lykame

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 1, 2018
Messages
1,433
What a lovely story!

Would also love to see the stone!

I think that style six prong is beautiful. Are you aware that with the doughnut at the bottom you're not going to have your wedding ring flush like in your inspiration picture?

Are you happy proportionately between the width of the baguettes compared to your central stone from the top down view? The inspiration picture you did has quite broad baguettes comparatively whereas the CAD has quite slim baguettes. Personally I very much prefer the slimmer baguettes because you have a big stone and that will help show it off.

The only thing I personally think is a bit unusual is the transition between the baguette sides and the shank. That shoulder section does look better shorter in the third CAD but it also looks quite jutty to me. I personally would be inclined to have the shank come off the baguettes in a smooth transition rather than with that curvy shoulder. I guess that style of shoulder might help the ring not spin, however. I hope you understand what I mean.

Perhaps I'll take liberty and see if either @rockysalamander or @sledge are around, they're good with settings. :geek2:
 

rockysalamander

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 20, 2016
Messages
5,105
Thanks for the ping Lykame!

I think the design is very nice, but agree that a few tweaks would improve things.

From the side, I find this specific 6-prong head out of synch with the setting. What if you use straight prongs off the shank (or donought if you relaly love them, I'm not a fan unless they are necessary).

This is a giant 15 carat stone, but can you see how the prongs are straight off the shank? Its still 6 prongs. Also, the cross-bar on the basket aligns with the baguettes.
upload_2019-3-7_5-54-40.png

Another example from Mark Bromand. Straight prongs and the crossbar aligns with the baguette at the shoulder (thought I find the baguettes too angled up and the whole ring too high here).
upload_2019-3-7_5-56-44.png

If you go with a donut, I' like when the underside has cleaning access like this. But, I'd personally go with a solid shank under the stone like the example @SimoneDi posted.
upload_2019-3-7_5-57-45.png

For the side stones, I think that your mock-up does show quite substantial sides and the CAD are quite slim. To my eyes, I think I'd prefer them a bit wider than the CAD, but not as substantial as your mock-up. Also, I keep thinking that a step-cut bullet would also be brillant for this ring. It retians all the classic style of a baguette, but adds that point at the end. These would flow with the prongs on the CAD (w-style) or a striaght prong. If you love the W-style prongs (crown head), then these will really make that work better with that setting.

Its the lower of the two stone in this ring.
upload_2019-3-7_6-11-4.png upload_2019-3-7_6-10-14.png


I like the shank as it helps avoid the tail-prong of the baguette from being pokey and Leon Mege has made one similar so you have a visual. https://www.leonmege.com/portfolio/...ne-ring-old-european-tapered-baguettes-detail
 

Attachments

  • upload_2019-3-7_5-53-46.png
    upload_2019-3-7_5-53-46.png
    329.6 KB · Views: 101
  • upload_2019-3-7_6-4-18.png
    upload_2019-3-7_6-4-18.png
    461.8 KB · Views: 121

mrs-b

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
11,661
I think this is going to be a stellar ring! I have to say, for balance sake, I'd be looking for shorter baguettes than the ones depicted in the CADs. The current ones just make it a bit 'side heavy' and aren't in *quite* the right proportions to the center stone.
 

tyty333

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 17, 2008
Messages
27,254
I prefer the baguettes to connect to the basket holding the stone (and not left sort of hanging in the air). Yours do look like they connect
to two of the prongs (so not left hanging). I do perfer a basket for this type of setting though.

FYI - I used to have a baguette setting like this for my pear. It is difficult to find a wedding band to go with it that looks nice. I ended up resetting
my pear and am much happier with it. Do you already have a wedding band picked out for it? If not, you should go try on a baguette type setting
and some wedding bands to see if you like the look.

Congrats on your new stone!!! Looking forward to pics when you get it!
 

RainbowSeekingGoat

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 9, 2019
Messages
13
105BF1C7-90B1-4149-8701-ED933CFD751C.jpeg Woah, thank you all so much for your input, so grateful for them! I have to wait until I get to my computer later tonight to reply more in length. But I do have a picture in my phone that I saved a while back and which has sparkled the idea of this setting. (Excuse the resolution.) Sometime ago, we went to Harry Winston to try on their three stones baguettes and liked the very elegant curve of the shoulders of their ring (and clearly not the price-tag). Thus, we requested it in the custom.

Instead of a three stone, I think what I have in mind is more maybe like an enhanced solitaire? I originally asked for the NY classic from HPD but after more thinking, both of us want a unique ring which can also stand the test of time. (My mom, my aunt and my sister all got a 6 prongs Tiffany style solitaire....all beautifully matched in their own sets!) I am 99% sure I just want a plain yellow gold band and matching that with a solitaire looked a little boring after I tried the set out in a B&M. 6-prongs only because I have heard stories of losing a stone from a 4-prongs ring.. and even though I don’t plan to wear my ering everyday, based on the history of cuts I got on the hands every year, I figured my nerves would just be healthier wearing a 6 :loopy:
 

sledge

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 23, 2018
Messages
5,791
Thanks for the tag. Here are a few thoughts I had:

1. I don't like the hard "vertical" lines that makes the shank look separate from the baguettes. Using grey I filled those in to match to illustrate how that transition being smooth/flush would look.

2. I think part of the reason the baguettes look small have to do with geometry. The straight blue line shows the bottom alignment of the donut. You should notice that if you extend that line over how the baguette sits just barely above it, and there is that little "lip" of metal that creates the base for the baguette.

When you look at the side view of the ring, it catches it again, but here the baguette looks too small. I think this is because of the angle the baguette is currently set. Using the red lines, you can see about 40% of the baguette gets "hidden" under the diamond & prongs, leaving only 60% or so visible which is what I tried to highlight in the green.

InkedEmpress_frontsl_LI.jpg

3. You will see I also provided a bar in one of the views at approximately the girdle of the diamond.

4. Becausae of the problem in #2, I think you need to raise the angle of the baguette. I tried to illustrate this below. Grey for ring and blue for the baguette. I know it's rough, but I'm not a photoshop guy. I'd like to see that line up close to the bar I added near the girdle so they have continuity where they meet and smoothness. My drawing isn't exactly perfect in that regard, but that was the intent.

InkedEmpress_frontsl_L2.jpg

5. When doing the changes in #4 above, it becomes apparent the head looks too high to me still. If any room is left to lower it, I would bring it down as much as possible. Alternatively, you can do as others suggest and use more straight prongs as the angle from those is part of what is creating the problem (IMO).

6. Assuming you stick with the changes in #4 & #5 above, you end up with a larger gap between the baguette shoulder and actual ring. I'd thicken the shank in that area for one but I also added some twirly decorations in there to close the gap visually.

7. I haven't drawn it yet, but I think the curve/edge where the baguette and main shank needs massaged a little so it is a little smoother.
 

sledge

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 23, 2018
Messages
5,791
8. If you decide to change the angle of the prongs, you could make the gap at the bottom near the donut a little wider and change the geometry a little. This is very rough, but the red lines illustrate what I mean.

If you like some of those ideas, I'd ask HPD to save your Rev #3 of the CAD's. Then create a Rev #4 doing the mods above. I think it will still need a little more tweaking but because so many things are changing I think seeing a Rev #4 would be necessary to do a final sweep.


InkedInkedEmpress_frontsl_L2_LI.jpg
 

RainbowSeekingGoat

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 9, 2019
Messages
13
105BF1C7-90B1-4149-8701-ED933CFD751C.jpeg Woah, thank you all so much for your input, so grateful for them! I have to wait until I get to my computer later tonight to reply more in length. But I do have a picture in my phone that I saved a while back and which has sparkled the idea of this setting. (Excuse the resolution.) Sometime ago, we went to Harry Winston to try on their three stones baguettes and liked the very elegant curve of the shoulders of their ring (and clearly not the price-tag). Thus, we requested it in the custom.

Instead of a three stone, I think what I have in mind is more maybe like an enhanced solitaire? I originally asked for the NY classic from HPD but after more thinking, both of us want a unique ring which can also stand the test of time. (My mom, my aunt and my sister all got a 6 prongs Tiffany style solitaire....all beautifully matched in their own sets!) I am 99% sure I just want a plain yellow gold band and matching that with a solitaire looked a little boring after I tried the set out in a B&M. 6-prongs only because I have heard stories of losing a stone from a 4-prongs ring.. and even though I don’t plan to wear my ering everyday, based on the history of cuts I got on the hands every year, I figured my nerves would just be healthier wearing a 6 :loopy:

@mrs-b Here is a picture of the CS with the baguettes from HPD's bench:

IMG_5486.jpg

The pairs are at 6.05 x 2.41 x 1.44 x 1.52 and 6.01 x 2.41 x 1.38 x 1.52. This is the pair the bench picked best suited for the ring. I guess they didn't pick a bigger pair of baguettes because of two things I have asked for [1] that the ring would be between 2.5mm to 3mm to match the wedding band's width (and currently it is from 2.6mm at the top to 3mm at the bottom) and [2] that I want as little as the shank seen when viewed straight on--and they seemed to have made that happen with the below:

Screen Shot 2019-03-07 at 5.01.36 PM.png

Should they be larger based on the inspiration picture of this ring I found? And how much in mm you would say they should be larger?

@Lykame Thanks for tagging the pros for me! Ironically we didn't take a photo of the stone when we were seeing it in person because at first I assumed that it would be out of out budget. Only later back home that we decided to go with it and we only had photos of the other stones :doh:But I promise more pics would come as soon as it arrives!

@rockysalamander I have asked HPD about opening the galleries too but they highly suggest that I don't for structural security with the weight above the shank. I originally asked for the cross bars but when the CAD comes back, the baguettes actually can be hold semi bezel by two carved out corners from the prongs so that no bars nor prongs are needed -- and I love that diamond-to-diamond transition when viewed from the sides! I do realize that this combination of 6 prongs crown head + baguettes is not the most popular from the beginning but I am not a fan of the basket either.. (mostly because we both don't like the horizontal bars that hide the body of the stone more) It seems like everyone on this thread so far like it more, so I am feeling mixed. We thought it would be quite unique but now I am nervous it is more of an odd kid than unique :wall:

@sledge Thank you for all the pointers and long notes, so nice of you to take the time to help me out! I should have mentioned earlier that we both prefer the ring to high set (just not as high as the second CAD), I know there are more PSers who love a low set than a high set but we are again like the odds :doh:Do you think we will need to switch in another set of longer baguettes if we change the angle of them to the blue line? By making the shank flush when it touches the baguettes, do you mean the purple line below and removing the "lip"?

Screen Shot 2019-03-07 at 5.25.28 PM.png

Just want to clarify in general that when we say "straight prongs," would that be just prongs not coming out from a donut? Or when they are at an angle that are more straight up?

Since this is our very first custom, I am have very little idea how many rounds of CAD are generally acceptable. The first one I received was a very rough one, the second one was close to what I was imagining and we made some changes to it ending with with the third one. Should the next CAD be my final one given where we are at? Usually how many rounds do you guys go through for a ring at this level of detail?

@lydial How is your CAD going? Would love to follow yours!
I am heading out for an event but I will pop back right in here once I get home! :read:
 
L

lydial

Guest
@mrs-b Here is a picture of the CS with the baguettes from HPD's bench:

IMG_5486.jpg

The pairs are at 6.05 x 2.41 x 1.44 x 1.52 and 6.01 x 2.41 x 1.38 x 1.52. This is the pair the bench picked best suited for the ring. I guess they didn't pick a bigger pair of baguettes because of two things I have asked for [1] that the ring would be between 2.5mm to 3mm to match the wedding band's width (and currently it is from 2.6mm at the top to 3mm at the bottom) and [2] that I want as little as the shank seen when viewed straight on--and they seemed to have made that happen with the below:

Screen Shot 2019-03-07 at 5.01.36 PM.png

Should they be larger based on the inspiration picture of this ring I found? And how much in mm you would say they should be larger?

@Lykame Thanks for tagging the pros for me! Ironically we didn't take a photo of the stone when we were seeing it in person because at first I assumed that it would be out of out budget. Only later back home that we decided to go with it and we only had photos of the other stones :doh:But I promise more pics would come as soon as it arrives!

@rockysalamander I have asked HPD about opening the galleries too but they highly suggest that I don't for structural security with the weight above the shank. I originally asked for the cross bars but when the CAD comes back, the baguettes actually can be hold semi bezel by two carved out corners from the prongs so that no bars nor prongs are needed -- and I love that diamond-to-diamond transition when viewed from the sides! I do realize that this combination of 6 prongs crown head + baguettes is not the most popular from the beginning but I am not a fan of the basket either.. (mostly because we both don't like the horizontal bars that hide the body of the stone more) It seems like everyone on this thread so far like it more, so I am feeling mixed. We thought it would be quite unique but now I am nervous it is more of an odd kid than unique :wall:

@sledge Thank you for all the pointers and long notes, so nice of you to take the time to help me out! I should have mentioned earlier that we both prefer the ring to high set (just not as high as the second CAD), I know there are more PSers who love a low set than a high set but we are again like the odds :doh:Do you think we will need to switch in another set of longer baguettes if we change the angle of them to the blue line? By making the shank flush when it touches the baguettes, do you mean the purple line below and removing the "lip"?

Screen Shot 2019-03-07 at 5.25.28 PM.png

Just want to clarify in general that when we say "straight prongs," would that be just prongs not coming out from a donut? Or when they are at an angle that are more straight up?

Since this is our very first custom, I am have very little idea how many rounds of CAD are generally acceptable. The first one I received was a very rough one, the second one was close to what I was imagining and we made some changes to it ending with with the third one. Should the next CAD be my final one given where we are at? Usually how many rounds do you guys go through for a ring at this level of detail?

@lydial How is your CAD going? Would love to follow yours!
I am heading out for an event but I will pop back right in here once I get home! :read:

Hi! I will ask Layla to forward you the CAD to your email. We are done designing. I gave up social media for Lent!o_O
 

Niel

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jul 23, 2012
Messages
20,046
I am in agreement with everyone else that type of basket doesn’t make any since/ have any flow with the baguettes.
 

sledge

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 23, 2018
Messages
5,791

I was only suggesting to lower the head because I thought it looked funny when I suggested changing the angle of the prongs. It forced a larger gap where I put that little twirly design. Lowering the head would effectively narrow that gap and make it look a little better IMO.

I actually think your pink line makes the ring look better. But it needs a lip near the baguette. I drew a blue line on the opposite side to show what I mean, although that curve is a little exaggerated. Just hard to draw with a mouse, LOL.

InkedInkedScreen Shot 2019-03-07 at 5.25.28 PM_LI.jpg

Also, see that line that I circled in red? That shadow that is being created is because the main shank is slightly higher than the metal shooting up that holds the baguette and also the metal continuing onto the donut. Effectively there is a "step" where that line is shown. I'm saying get rid of that step altogether so it's flush.

As far as the prongs, I am trying to keep your original design aspect, but modify it by spreading out the gap at the bottom so that the prongs can naturally rise from the donut area at a steeper angle.

Lastly, I don't think there is any "standard" number of CAD revisions that is the correct answer. It really depends on the complexity of the ring you are designing, how well the communication goes between you and the designer, etc.

I had quite a few revisions and a small book here on this forum when I went through the process to design my fiancee's ring for her.

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/dk-bgd-custom-setting-the-home-stretch.240843/

dkjpv_0629_wr-1-jpg.635134


dkjpv_0629_wr-5-jpg.635135
[/user]
 
L

lydial

Guest
I am supposed to be off social media but I will say I like the CAD, I think the OP should stick to her ideas, it is actually a classic design, I see this setting come up often in auction houses. Smoothing out the transition to the baguettes IMO will make the sides bland. I like the subtle step. As far as the setting goes: It rings a little disco for me, for some reason, and that is fun. It has a 60’s/ 70’s vibe. I am on my 3rd tapered baguette RB ring, they are beautiful and timeless. Wear what YOU like.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

rainydaze

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 1, 2007
Messages
3,361
Knox Jewelers makes a nice six prong with baguettes setting. I like how the basket is integrated, but it has a pinched shank that might not suit your tastes. I'm not sure they will set outside stones though, so this would be for inspiration.

3447_4_image.jpg

3447_3_image.jpg

3447_2_image.jpg


I also found this vintage Tiffany that has a six prong head like yours with baguettes. The shank doesn't curve up at the end of the baguette, it continues fluidly like some are suggesting. It also seems set very low like @sledge is suggesting. I think it has a very nice, integrated look. This is a 1.31 ct stone for reference.

tiffany-co-3653897060435_1024x1024.jpg


tiffany-co-3653897027667_1024x1024.jpg
 

RainbowSeekingGoat

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 9, 2019
Messages
13
Knox Jewelers makes a nice six prong with baguettes setting. I like how the basket is integrated, but it has a pinched shank that might not suit your tastes. I'm not sure they will set outside stones though, so this would be for inspiration.

3447_4_image.jpg

3447_3_image.jpg

3447_2_image.jpg


I also found this vintage Tiffany that has a six prong head like yours with baguettes. The shank doesn't curve up at the end of the baguette, it continues fluidly like some are suggesting. It also seems set very low like @sledge is suggesting. I think it has a very nice, integrated look. This is a 1.31 ct stone for reference.

tiffany-co-3653897060435_1024x1024.jpg


tiffany-co-3653897027667_1024x1024.jpg

That is the vintage Tiffany I found before! What a beautiful ring and I love the crown there. I did tried on some low set baguette sidestones styles but I guess I am just not a low set girl. Thanks for sharing these, definitely make me rethink some details!
 

RainbowSeekingGoat

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 9, 2019
Messages
13
I was only suggesting to lower the head because I thought it looked funny when I suggested changing the angle of the prongs. It forced a larger gap where I put that little twirly design. Lowering the head would effectively narrow that gap and make it look a little better IMO.

I actually think your pink line makes the ring look better. But it needs a lip near the baguette. I drew a blue line on the opposite side to show what I mean, although that curve is a little exaggerated. Just hard to draw with a mouse, LOL.

InkedInkedScreen Shot 2019-03-07 at 5.25.28 PM_LI.jpg

Also, see that line that I circled in red? That shadow that is being created is because the main shank is slightly higher than the metal shooting up that holds the baguette and also the metal continuing onto the donut. Effectively there is a "step" where that line is shown. I'm saying get rid of that step altogether so it's flush.

As far as the prongs, I am trying to keep your original design aspect, but modify it by spreading out the gap at the bottom so that the prongs can naturally rise from the donut area at a steeper angle.

Lastly, I don't think there is any "standard" number of CAD revisions that is the correct answer. It really depends on the complexity of the ring you are designing, how well the communication goes between you and the designer, etc.

I had quite a few revisions and a small book here on this forum when I went through the process to design my fiancee's ring for her.

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/dk-bgd-custom-setting-the-home-stretch.240843/

dkjpv_0629_wr-1-jpg.635134


dkjpv_0629_wr-5-jpg.635135
[/user]

Woah, what a ring! I am mind blown :appl:And those lovely claws.

Thank you for the blue line! I am going to regroup with my fiancé, send some edits and post our next CAD here. Thanks everyone for your comments :))
 

RainbowSeekingGoat

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 9, 2019
Messages
13
I am supposed to be off social media but I will say I like the CAD, I think the OP should stick to her ideas, it is actually a classic design, I see this setting come up often in auction houses. Smoothing out the transition to the baguettes IMO will make the sides bland. I like the subtle step. As far as the setting goes: It rings a little disco for me, for some reason, and that is fun. It has a 60’s/ 70’s vibe. I am on my 3rd tapered baguette RB ring, they are beautiful and timeless. Wear what YOU like.

Thank you for making me feel better and 100% yes to the disco vibe 8) I feel the same way secretly too hehe, I am glad I found you here! I saw your CAD, you are going to have such a GORGEOUS ring. Please share pics with us when you receive it :love:
 
Be a part of the community Get 3 HCA Results
Top