Diamonds white v. translucent/clear

[kimf79]

Hello, need some help and opinions.

I am in the process searching for and having an eternity band made. the jeweler I've worked with knows im nervous and has basically agreed to make this custom band for me and will allow me not to purchase if it isn't just what I am expecting. this jeweler is highly recommended, great reviews and has been pleasant to work with, plus pricing is in my range as opposed to others I went to that were 15-30% higher.

the pic below called new band is an example the jeweler gave me of size and quality stones that we are going with - F/G color, ex cut, SI1-S12++ clarity. he will hand select best stones and make sure there will be no inclusions visible to the eye. and ive heard with eternity bands the quality doesn't have to be top top in all categories for it to still look great.

well the pic new band, the diamonds kind of have a white opaque appearance. I don't know if this is a lighting thing. here is another band ive tried on where the diamonds look translucent and clear. I really prefer this clear look and im worried the band being made for me will have the white look. do you think this is a lighting thing, or what else would you say? both bands are f-g color, the clarity on the clearer band may be higher at VS2 or so. the lighting of clearer band was in a retail jewelry location where light is made to reflect super well on diamonds Im sure. the pic with whiter diamond was taken in a jewelers office with no special lighting. please let me know your thoughts. I am really only able to make this purchase once so I need to make sure I am getting truly what I want - and what I want is for the diamonds to have that clear translucent look and sparkle, vs. a white look and sparkle. I think with specs ive gone with it should be attainable, but I don't know if some diamonds just appear more white or clear.

 

[Kaycee2018]

I think the difference you are seeing is due to lighting. Diamonds look very different under different lighting.

 

[kimf79]

I think the difference you are seeing is due to lighting. Diamonds look very different under different lighting.

Yes I hope that's the case. I'm all in if will have that clear translucent sparkle I am looking for.

Yet when I was in jewelers office the sample band he showed me did appear white in the lighting and even bringing it over to the window. but also those are not the stones we are going with, just a similar quality.

 

[sledge]

I have a few concerns.

First, on the clarity, it could be lighting but it could also be the fact the stones are SI1/SI2 clarity and the TYPE and LOCATION of the inclusions are creating a cloudy/hazy appearance. You get a cloudy stone and it CAN impact light performance.

This isn't to say that all SI1 and SI2 stones are unacceptable, but IMO, the stones need to be carefully vetted to ensure the clarity of each stone is truly acceptable.

Also, I am concerned about cut quality. GIA has a pretty broad net that allows many stones to graded "excellent", yet are not even close to excellent. Here are a set of proportions that can help you ensure you get a stone that performs ideally:

• 54-57 table
• 60-62.4 depth (prefer < 62)
• 34-35 crown (maybe 35.5 if paired w/ 40.6 pavilion)
• 40.6-40.9 pavilion (maybe 41, if paired with 34 crown)
• 75-80 LGF
• You want to the crown & pavilion to have an inverse relationship, meaning steep crown/shallow pavilion or the vice versa. Some popular combos that work well together (not an extensive list) are: 35/40.6, 34.5/40.8, 34.5/40.7, 34/40.9
• Run the stones through the HCA calculator to ensure you get a score between 0-2

If you are working with a trusted vendor this site recognizes, then simply telling them "PS quality stones" might suffice. However, most local B&M jewelers won't be familiar with that term.

 

[Kaycee2018]

@sledge, I'd be surprised if these diamonds are certified since the diamonds appear to be .20-.30 each and stones that small are not usually certified (though sometimes they are). I assume the grading described is based on the jewelers opinion.

 

[sledge]

@sledge, I'd be surprised if these diamonds are certified since the diamonds appear to be .20-.30 each and stones that small are not usually certified (though sometimes they are). I assume the grading described is based on the jewelers opinion.

I know BGD stocks quite a few 0.20+ carat stones. All H&A quality with certs. About $300-400 each, depending what you select.

https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/diamond/search-for-diamonds/round

If doing individual stones proves to be too expensive, I'd have a conversations with WF, HPD or even VC about using H&A quality melee stones to make the eternity ring.

IDJ could help source "PS quality" stones that are uncertified as well, and have a knack of hitting tough budgets and ideal cut stones.

Just saying there are options.

 

[kimf79]

@sledge, I'd be surprised if these diamonds are certified since the diamonds appear to be .20-.30 each and stones that small are not usually certified (though sometimes they are). I assume the grading described is based on the jewelers opinion.

yes, the grading is on the jewelers opinion. maybe he is not as stringent as GIA, but he says close. I think if I did gia certified stones for this band, it might raise the price another thousand or two.

 

[kimf79]

I know BGD stocks quite a few 0.20+ carat stones. All H&A quality with certs. About $300-400 each, depending what you select.

https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/diamond/search-for-diamonds/round

If doing individual stones proves to be too expensive, I'd have a conversations with WF, HPD or even VC about using H&A quality melee stones to make the eternity ring.

IDJ could help source "PS quality" stones that are uncertified as well, and have a knack of hitting tough budgets and ideal cut stones.

Just saying there are options.

I had spoken with IDJ in the past and they definitely seem great and were an option for me, but I worried having the work done in NY, as I am in LA. I would like to see things and be a part of the process. plus once IDJ makes the band they would not let me return it if it wasn't all I expected. this jeweler has offered to custom make this basically at his risk that I might not like it. it does however put me in kind of a tough spot, after the work has been done to have to say no if im not in love. or worse say yes, when it is not just right either.

 

[lovedogs]

I don't think you need certified stones in this size. But I do worry about clarity/quality. I would recommend working with ID jewelry for this kind of project. They will do a great job.

 

[kimf79]

I have a few concerns.

First, on the clarity, it could be lighting but it could also be the fact the stones are SI1/SI2 clarity and the TYPE and LOCATION of the inclusions are creating a cloudy/hazy appearance. You get a cloudy stone and it CAN impact light performance.

This isn't to say that all SI1 and SI2 stones are unacceptable, but IMO, the stones need to be carefully vetted to ensure the clarity of each stone is truly acceptable.

Also, I am concerned about cut quality. GIA has a pretty broad net that allows many stones to graded "excellent", yet are not even close to excellent. Here are a set of proportions that can help you ensure you get a stone that performs ideally:

• 54-57 table
• 60-62.4 depth (prefer < 62)
• 34-35 crown (maybe 35.5 if paired w/ 40.6 pavilion)
• 40.6-40.9 pavilion (maybe 41, if paired with 34 crown)
• 75-80 LGF
• You want to the crown & pavilion to have an inverse relationship, meaning steep crown/shallow pavilion or the vice versa. Some popular combos that work well together (not an extensive list) are: 35/40.6, 34.5/40.8, 34.5/40.7, 34/40.9
• Run the stones through the HCA calculator to ensure you get a score between 0-2

If you are working with a trusted vendor this site recognizes, then simply telling them "PS quality stones" might suffice. However, most local B&M jewelers won't be familiar with that term.

yes you could be right. but this is a trusted jeweler in LA, who really isn't trying to put his reputation on the line in my opinion. I think he was choosing eye clean stones and hand picking etc. I did look at the stones we chose and they don't appear cloudy, they just appear somewhat white as opposed to translucent. I don't know im really confused here, and don't want to make a mistake.

I will have to get my courage up to say no I cant purchase it, if it isn't just what im looking for.

 

[sledge]

We all have different risk tolerance, so I can understand the appeal of working with a local jeweler. Being in LA, have you discovered David Klass (DK) yet?

He designed & built my wife's e-ring & matching band.

The center stone is a BGD. The melee stones he hand selected, but upgraded so quality wise they were a match to the BGD stone.

FWIW, I bought the stone from BGD in Houston. Custom designed & made the setting with DK in Los Angeles, who also set the center stone. And then had it shipped across the country to me. First time doing any of it. LOL, like I said, different risk tolerances, etc.

Just know if you decide to do something similar, there are good folks here to help guide you along the way. Not pushing you, just letting you know.

But DK may be a great answer for you considering he is local. If you drop by, tell Amy I said hi.

 

[kimf79]

I don't think you need certified stones in this size. But I do worry about clarity/quality. I would recommend working with ID jewelry for this kind of project. They will do a great job.

yes I agree that I don't need gia stones, but I do need to make sure quality and clarity is up to par. its really hard for me to tell. I worried about working with ID because im really specific about a few factors and would be hard for me not to see things in person.

also at this point I am already in process of having this band made, yet I do have the option not to purchase which will make me feel bad to do. but I must make the right decision for me as I cant do this twice.

 

[kmoro]

yes I agree that I don't need gia stones, but I do need to make sure quality and clarity is up to par. its really hard for me to tell. I worried about working with ID because im really specific about a few factors and would be hard for me not to see things in person.

also at this point I am already in process of having this band made, yet I do have the option not to purchase which will make me feel bad to do. but I must make the right decision for me as I cant do this twice.

If I may chime in here ... I have no experience with DK, but I know that he’s done a lot of work for many people on these forums. As @sledge mentioned, DK completed his ring long-distance, and it is beautiful. The point that I’m trying to make is that DK has experience dealing with clients long-distance, and you’d definitely not be the first newbie that he guided through the process; it may not be as formidable as you think, and you may be able to have just as much input into the design and completion as you do in person. Having said this, I do understand your reservations about not being able to see things in person.

Also - diamonds will tend to go “dark” in really bright spot lighting ... you could try even shining your phone flashlight on the diamonds to see if they look clear (“dark” with flashy sparkles) or if they still look white ... direct sunlight (not indirect like under cloud cover) would be even better, I think. Can you go outside with the rings?

 

[headlight]

I have a few concerns.

First, on the clarity, it could be lighting but it could also be the fact the stones are SI1/SI2 clarity and the TYPE and LOCATION of the inclusions are creating a cloudy/hazy appearance. You get a cloudy stone and it CAN impact light performance.

This isn't to say that all SI1 and SI2 stones are unacceptable, but IMO, the stones need to be carefully vetted to ensure the clarity of each stone is truly acceptable.

Also, I am concerned about cut quality. GIA has a pretty broad net that allows many stones to graded "excellent", yet are not even close to excellent. Here are a set of proportions that can help you ensure you get a stone that performs ideally:

• 54-57 table
• 60-62.4 depth (prefer < 62)
• 34-35 crown (maybe 35.5 if paired w/ 40.6 pavilion)
• 40.6-40.9 pavilion (maybe 41, if paired with 34 crown)
• 75-80 LGF
• You want to the crown & pavilion to have an inverse relationship, meaning steep crown/shallow pavilion or the vice versa. Some popular combos that work well together (not an extensive list) are: 35/40.6, 34.5/40.8, 34.5/40.7, 34/40.9
• Run the stones through the HCA calculator to ensure you get a score between 0-2

If you are working with a trusted vendor this site recognizes, then simply telling them "PS quality stones" might suffice. However, most local B&M jewelers won't be familiar with that term.

I wasn't aware that for the size stones used in an eternity band such as this style that each small stone would go through the same selection process as with a center diamond??? I do know that there now exists H & A (or comparable) melee which is pretty cool!
Of course for a ring of this style you would want the stones in the color (or range) of one's preference or to be a good pairing with the E-ring, and for whatever color that would be you would want all the stones in the band to be a close match, do not want heavily included stones, but also really important for a ring of this type is you want the optical table sizes to match... doesn't have to be on paper the same measurement of table size just so that the reflection has a uniformity.

 

[headlight]

yes I agree that I don't need gia stones, but I do need to make sure quality and clarity is up to par. its really hard for me to tell. I worried about working with ID because im really specific about a few factors and would be hard for me not to see things in person.

also at this point I am already in process of having this band made, yet I do have the option not to purchase which will make me feel bad to do. but I must make the right decision for me as I cant do this twice.

The jeweler is giving you the option to not buy it so you do not have to feel bad if you choose not to (but I understand and you are very thoughtful!). He either feels fairly confident that you will like it and/or that he knows he will be able to sell to someone else (if there is a sizing bar and/or you are a popular ring size), or he is just a great jeweler and wants to make a lifelong customer.

 

[kimf79]

The jeweler is giving you the option to not buy it so you do not have to feel bad if you choose not to (but I understand and you are very thoughtful!). He either feels fairly confident that you will like it and/or that he knows he will be able to sell to someone else (if there is a sizing bar and/or you are a popular ring size), or he is just a great jeweler and wants to make a lifelong customer.

Thank you. im having a real issue feeling a lot of pressure that he is making it with that risk, but I have to be true to what I want and not get caught up in the moment. I think he thinks I will like it and/or he is a great jeweler trying to make a lifelong customer. my size is pretty small so likely not due to that reason.

 

[kimf79]

If I may chime in here ... I have no experience with DK, but I know that he’s done a lot of work for many people on these forums. As @sledge mentioned, DK completed his ring long-distance, and it is beautiful. The point that I’m trying to make is that DK has experience dealing with clients long-distance, and you’d definitely not be the first newbie that he guided through the process; it may not be as formidable as you think, and you may be able to have just as much input into the design and completion as you do in person. Having said this, I do understand your reservations about not being able to see things in person.

Also - diamonds will tend to go “dark” in really bright spot lighting ... you could try even shining your phone flashlight on the diamonds to see if they look clear (“dark” with flashy sparkles) or if they still look white ... direct sunlight (not indirect like under cloud cover) would be even better, I think. Can you go outside with the rings?

yes I have heard of DK. Its an option. I had actually had a great experience speaking with IDJ, so that would probably be my first choice if this doesn't work out as well as I wish. I know I have reservations about working long distance but they do send you videos of everything etc.

that is my 2nd option. now I just feel a little bit caught in my current situation worried it wont turn out as I wish. and having to figure this out first. and thank u about figuring out how it looks in different lighting I will have to do that.

 

[Karl_K]

He is working hard to earn your business give him a chance to wow you.
If it dont then move on.

 

[OoohShiny]

If the workmanship is good but the stones are... okay... would you have the budget / would the jeweller be open to use the BGD stones mentioned earlier?

 

[Sabrina31]

Soo. This is a pretty basic design, and maybe its just me, but I dont see the need to go custom. Why not spend a little time and find what you're looking for in a ready made ring from white flash or BGD? It would significantly reduce the risk that you wont like it or its quality wont be what you're hoping for as you will already know what you are buying.
I think custom is great when you want a design that's hard to achieve or different than whats out there but you arent getting that value in this instance. Custom doesn't necessarily mean better.