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4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed please!

CalmerPalmer

Rough_Rock
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Oct 1, 2014
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67
Hi hi,

So I was hoping to get an upgrade through BE earlier, but I was informed that there was nothing available worth getting in my budget and that 4.5 ct cushion listed on their website was just sold. Bummer! I therefore diverted my attention elsewhere and spotted this baby on Jogani Beverly Hills' instagram through Grace's feeds.

As luck would have it, Grace had the stone in-house when I inquired about it but hadn't listed it yet at the time. Being based overseas and difficult to see it in person, plus it is not graded at the moment (I'll come back to this), I then asked Neil Beaty to help take a look. I'm happy with the result of his assessment and decided to go ahead with the purchase. Here it is the link that was later put up:

http://www.jewelsbygrace.com/loose-diamonds/3-01-ct-and-up/4-58ct-fancy-brown-vintage-emerald-cut-diamond#.V4NG4fl95D8

The plan is to send it off to GIA (Grace has guaranteed that it would come back at least Fancy Light Brown and Si1), and then to a setter. I've been admiring this setting forever (and I think recently someone posted about it as well) and had it in mind when I saw the stone. Now on to my questions (I understand that these are subjective in nature but wanted to see what you all think):

http://stevenkirsch.com/gallery/ring-trio-asscher-trapezoids-three-stone-platinum-gold/

1. Should I set the whole thing in rose gold, or just the head?
2. Should I request that the side stones be icy white or a little warm?
3. Should I request the side stones be step cut traps (I think that's what they are called?) or french cuts?

Any thoughts would be very much appreciated!

jogani_bh.png

img_12260.jpg
 

Gypsy

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

F/G sidestones. Rose gold head only. Platinum for the rest. Step Cut traps only.
 

Acinom

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

What a beautiful stone!!! Congrats.
I would personally use white step cut sides for contrast. I would set it in RG to emphasize the beautiful warmth of the stone.
 

Niel

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

Gypsy|1468222814|4054232 said:
F/G sidestones. Rose gold head only. Platinum for the rest. Step Cut traps only.
Same
 

bright ice

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

Gypsy|1468222814|4054232 said:
F/G sidestones. Rose gold head only. Platinum for the rest. Step Cut traps only.
Agree
 

Snowdrop13

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

Have you seen the Giselle solitaire on CvB's Instagram? It's gorgeous but I think the sides are French cuts. Lovely engraving too.

Your stone is amazing, btw!
 

acaw2015

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

I just wanted to say what an absolutely AMAZING stone and setting, I think it will be absolutely stunning! I agree, white side stones and traps... :love: :appl: :wavey:
 

Biba

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

Hi, I think you should go for icy white step cut sides set in platinum and have the central diamond set in a thin rose gold bezel.
 

Niel

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

definitely play with the color, as to me, it might even look best with yellow gold prongs
 

chrono

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

Gypsy|1468222814|4054232 said:
F/G sidestones. Rose gold head only. Platinum for the rest. Step Cut traps only.
Another vote for the above.
 

diamondseeker2006

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

Gypsy|1468222814|4054232 said:
F/G sidestones. Rose gold head only. Platinum for the rest. Step Cut traps only.
What she said. I have no problem with french cut traps, though. A friend just did that and it is gorgeous.
 

motownmama

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

I vote 100% rose gold - I think it would be smashing!!
 

diamondseeker2006

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

I was just looking at the ring by SK which I love. You need to ask Grace and/or Neil if this diamond has a yellow undertone. Because if it does, I would only go with yellow gold for the head, just like the SK ring. I only like a brown diamonds in rose gold if there is no yellow undertone or if there is pinkish/peach undertone. That hand pic above looks like it has yellow to me, but I don't know about the lighting. Also, definitely step cut traps for that SK setting. I was thinking of bezeled french cuts before I looked at the setting you are making.
 

acebruin

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Feb 21, 2008
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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

1. Yellow gold head only, rest in plat.
2. Icy white! E/F maybe if it's a Fancy Brown.
3. I would go with step cut traps, but this is a personal preference.
 

Niel

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

diamondseeker2006|1468275269|4054516 said:
I was just looking at the ring by SK which I love. You need to ask Grace and/or Neil if this diamond has a yellow undertone. Because if it does, I would only go with yellow gold for the head, just like the SK ring. I only like a brown diamonds in rose gold if there is no yellow undertone or if there is pinkish/peach undertone. That hand pic above looks like it has yellow to me, but I don't know about the lighting. Also, definitely step cut traps for that SK setting. I was thinking of bezeled french cuts before I looked at the setting you are making.
Haha I came back with the same thought. It look caramel to me. If that's the case it probably has a yellowish brown tone and thus really would do nest in yellow
 

diamondseeker2006

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

Niel|1468280491|4054540 said:
diamondseeker2006|1468275269|4054516 said:
I was just looking at the ring by SK which I love. You need to ask Grace and/or Neil if this diamond has a yellow undertone. Because if it does, I would only go with yellow gold for the head, just like the SK ring. I only like a brown diamonds in rose gold if there is no yellow undertone or if there is pinkish/peach undertone. That hand pic above looks like it has yellow to me, but I don't know about the lighting. Also, definitely step cut traps for that SK setting. I was thinking of bezeled french cuts before I looked at the setting you are making.
Haha I came back with the same thought. It look caramel to me. If that's the case it probably has a yellowish brown tone and thus really would do nest in yellow
:wavey: great minds.... :))
 

bright ice

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

Grace describes the color as deep brown to light brown with peach and pink undertones so I think rose gold if that truly is the case.
 

lovedogs

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

Sorry, I am no help when it comes to the setting, but think you've gotten excellent advice from others. Just felt compelled to come and say how incredible I think your stone is. Seriously drooling over it! So happy for you and excited to see what you create for it!
 

marcy

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

Your EC is gorgeous and I so agree with RG and white side stones.
 

CalmerPalmer

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

Hi guys!

Thank you SO much for your kind inputs - very helpful indeed!

Great point about seeing if there is yellow undertone - in Neil's assessment, he graded the stone "fancy light slightly orangy brown", so maybe I should ask SK to consider both yellow and rose gold for the head and make his recommendation?

I'm also starting to be a little bit concerned about the proportions of the side stones (haven't thought about it until now) - as my finger size is 4.75, and the stone is measured 10 x 8.88, so there's not much width left for the traps I imagine.. Thoughts? Skinnier traps or smaller traps overall? I guess the clipped corners would be a consideration as well (bigger differences between the lengths on the sides and the length of the stone)?
 

Niel

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

CalmerPalmer|1468315816|4054647 said:
Hi guys!

Thank you SO much for your kind inputs - very helpful indeed!

Great point about seeing if there is yellow undertone - in Neil's assessment, he graded the stone "fancy light slightly orangy brown", so maybe I should ask SK to consider both yellow and rose gold for the head and make his recommendation?

I'm also starting to be a little bit concerned about the proportions of the side stones (haven't thought about it until now) - as my finger size is 4.75, and the stone is measured 10 x 8.88, so there's not much width left for the traps I imagine.. Thoughts? Skinnier traps or smaller traps overall? I guess the clipped corners would be a consideration as well (bigger differences between the lengths on the sides and the length of the stone)?

Absolutely if he thought it was orangish then id consider doing yellow prongs .

If it where me I would just what skinnier traps of needed rather than smaller traps overall sk knows what he is doing I'm sure the can get he right proportions
 

Gypsy

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

Let Steven chose both the metal and the size of the sidestones. He can send you pictures of your stone next to the proposed sides for your evaluation. He will likely angle the sidestones for your ring to allow for a good fit. Don't worry, he'll make it perfect for you.
 

diamondseeker2006

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

Yes, with orange, yg is probably going to be better, but I agree to let Steven give you his opinion. As to size of traps, one of my favorite settings ever for an EC had very small bezeled traps with little bullets.

2014-06-07_47.jpg
 

Gypsy

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

diamondseeker2006|1468371516|4054950 said:
Yes, with orange, yg is probably going to be better, but I agree to let Steven give you his opinion. As to size of traps, one of my favorite settings ever for an EC had very small bezeled traps with little bullets.

AGREE. Those proportions are very Deco, which is a fabulous look.
 

Sunstorm

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

I will just comment from a professional point of view. I own a fancy orangy brown, I love the stone to pieces. The stone has peachy pink undertones as many orangy browns do. Pictures will bring out yellow but in most cases that is not the case IRL. My stone photographs a bit yellowish too but it is not at all IRL. If you look at the photos Grace took the stone is more peachy/pinkish than yellow, only the hand shot shows yellow. What color you choose for the center depends on what you want to emphasize. To me it was obvious that I wanted to emphasize the peachy/pink undertones. I set it in a higher profile rose gold which brought out the color amazingly beautiful. Rest is white metal with white pave. The outcome in my opinion with the contrasts and the emphasis on the undertones is great. This is all I can tell you unfortunately but I am sure you will have a great ring made out of this stone.
 

diamondseeker2006

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

Sunstorm|1468430021|4055153 said:
I will just comment from a professional point of view. I own a fancy orangy brown, I love the stone to pieces. The stone has peachy pink undertones as many orangy browns do. Pictures will bring out yellow but in most cases that is not the case IRL. My stone photographs a bit yellowish too but it is not at all IRL. If you look at the photos Grace took the stone is more peachy/pinkish than yellow, only the hand shot shows yellow. What color you choose for the center depends on what you want to emphasize. To me it was obvious that I wanted to emphasize the peachy/pink undertones. I set it in a higher profile rose gold which brought out the color amazingly beautiful. Rest is white metal with white pave. The outcome in my opinion with the contrasts and the emphasis on the undertones is great. This is all I can tell you unfortunately but I am sure you will have a great ring made out of this stone.
Those pictures of this stone appear to be taken by someone with a pink shirt on or pink reflecting from the environment. So I think it is impossible to tell the true color unless some are taken with a white background with no environmental reflections. I am sure Steven can assess that, fortunately.

I wish we could see your ring!
 

Sunstorm

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

I agree Diamondseeker. I also agree that if a brown has yellow undertones, YG is a better match and RG is best used on browns with some pink but it is impossible for me to judge the true color based on the pix, I was going by the comments that Grace made. Browns are really like chameleons, they also change more depending on lighting than most other fancies. In the case of my stone, the pink was apparent to several people upon first glance at the stone. It is one of those cases where the pink is either under the threshold to be on the report or that the report is not quite accurate but there was definitely pink there, which is good for the buyer. I have seen this to be a relatively common occurrence that pink is not noted in cases of brown stones when it is obviously there. When you have such a stone, of course you want to emphasize the pink tone with the RG. I even wear nail polish with some pink in it to reflect into the stone.:))) I also think that RG is a better match for the lighter browns which I personally and subjectively prefer to dark and more saturated browns. I think this is a very interesting project and will be great to see the outcome.
 

artdecolover71

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

LOVE the setting diamondseeker posted-ooh cannot wait to see this stone set, whatever you choose!!
 

CalmerPalmer

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

Thank you all again for your input and interest in this project! I'm very excited (and a bit nervous TBH) about it too - and just got an update from Steven on the quote (he agrees that it would be best for him to advise on the metal color and size of traps once he sees the stone in person).

I would like to get your thoughts - I'm not sure if I can disclose the quote here (if so i can give a range) just to make sure that it is in-line with general expectations for such a piece, or if that's frowned upon?

Thanks!
 

Gypsy

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Re: 4.58ct Brown emerald cut setting - opinions needed pleas

Is the quote for the setting only, not including side stones? Because the cost of the stones could vary quite a bit. You can share it if you want. There is no prohibition. I promise, Some people don;t like to share, others get cute with vague pronouncements that just confuse. I;m direct: either I share or I don't.
 
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