Trying to buy a diamond to have set

[Ennervated_scientist]

So I’m trying to buy a center diamond for a ring for my girlfriend. We’re already engaged and wanted to get the ring afterward, so we could both be involved. What we’re trying for is a tri-stone center piece with a halo/cloud of 1mm diamonds around it like this http://www.stuller.com/products/122277/?groupId=120793. Ideally we’d like to have a little bit of filigree or diamonds going partway down the band, but that’s a point that we totally don’t mind wiggling on.

Our budget *goal* is 3K, but we understand that compromises both on budget and ideals will have to be made, so it’s not set in “stone” (get it?). We’d like it to be 14K white gold, as well.

We’ve been working with a local jeweler in town, and I really like them. They are very honest in working with us to discuss the pros and cons of different things, and obvious limitations of certain ideas. They suggested to set the two side stones with white sapphire instead of diamond, in order to reduce the cost but still be able to have that central diamond.

We also would like our diamond to be from Russia, rather than just through the Kimberly process. The diamonds they had on hand were certified by EGL, which I’ve read is basically a fraud. They were very honest in the disparity between EGL/GIA/AGS, and these were just the Russian diamonds they had on hand when I was in. The prices were higher than I’d seen elsewhere, and I don’t want to go with these diamonds, so I thought I would look elsewhere to get the diamond myself and have them set it.

The diamonds they showed me today were as follows (all Russian and EGL):

0.51 Carat, H, SI1, $1450
0.47 Carat, F, SI1, $1600
0.4 Carat, H, VS1, $1350

The 0.4 Carat diamond was noticeably yellow, especially next to the other diamonds.

What do you recommend? Where is the best to compromise on diamond characteristics?

Would something like a GIA certified diamond with a VS2/H/0.4-0.5 carat/very good cut rating be a good idea? I’m obviously naïve about this, but I know enough to be anxious and worried.

Thanks!

 

[Gypsy]

NO.
Read this:
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/been-wondering-when-this-would-happen-lawsuit-over-grading.204318/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/been-wondering-when-this-would-happen-lawsuit-over-grading.204318/[/URL]
and this
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/egl-certification-are-any-of-them-ok.142863/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/egl-certification-are-any-of-them-ok.142863/[/URL]

Any vendor can get you a Stuller setting.
The entire purpose of faceting a diamond is to reflect light.
How well or how poorly a diamond does this determines how beautiful it is.
How well a diamond performs is determined by the angles and cutting. This is why we say cut is king.
No other factor: not color, not clarity has as much of an impact on the appearance of a diamond as its cut. An ideal H will out white a poorly cut F. And GIA Ex is not enough. And you must stick to GIA and AGS only. EGL is a bad option: [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/egl-certification-are-any-of-them-ok.142863/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/egl-certification-are-any-of-them-ok.142863/[/URL]
So how to we ensure that we have the right angles and cutting to get the light performance we want?
https://www.pricescope.com/wiki/diamonds/diamond-cut
Well one method is to start with a GIA Ex, and then apply the HCA to it. YOU DO NOT USE HCA for AGS0 stones.
https://www.pricescope.com/wiki/diamonds/holloway-cut-advisor
The HCA is a rejection tool. Not a selection tool. It uses 4 data points to make a rudimentary call on how the diamond may perform.
If the diamond passes then you know that you are in the right zone in terms of angles for light performance. Under 2 is a pass. Under 2.5-2.1 is a maybe. 2.6 and over is a no. No score 2 and under is better than any other.
Is that enough? Not really.
So what you need is a way to check actual light performance of your actual stone.
That's what an idealscope image does. https://www.pricescope.com/wiki/diamonds/firescope-idealscope
It shows you how and wear your diamond is reflecting light, how well it is going at it, and where you are losing light return. That is why you won't see us recommending Blue Nile, as they do not provide idealscope images for their diamonds. BGD, James Allen, GOG, HPD, ERD and WF do.

The Idealscope is the 'selection tool'. Not the HCA.
So yes, with a GIA stone you need the idealscope images. Or you can buy an idealscope yourself and take it in to the jeweler you are working with to check the stones yourself. Or if you have a good return policy (full refund minimum 7 days) then you can buy the idealscope, buy the stone, and do it at home.


Now if you want to skip all that... stick to AGS0 stones and then all you have to do is pick color and clarity and you know you have a great performing diamond. Because AGS has already done the checking for you. That's why they trade at a premium.

 

[Ennervated_scientist]

Thanks so much!!! This is very very helpful!!!

 

[EvangelineG]

They suggested to set the two side stones with white sapphire instead of diamond, in order to reduce the cost but still be able to have that central diamond.

Just a note of caution on this- white sapphire does not look or behave like diamond and they may look very disappointing flanking a well cut diamond.

I bought a pre-loved pair of natural white sapphire studs, so that I could wear them as kind of a test to determine if I would like diamond studs, and in what size. The sapphires on their own are kind of cool; they have a pleasant, low key kind of gleam. They have to be kept scrupulously clean or they lose their lustre fast, but they are nice looking...until you compare them to a diamond... Next to a diamond they are very lifeless, and mine have a bit of a greyish cast that you don't see until holding them up to a diamond (I have a G and an H here that I am comparing with). Sapphires just don't sparkle the way that diamonds do, so as a diamond substitute in a three stone ring they may detract from the overall effect, and just look like really cruddy diamonds.

Coloured sapphires are a whole different story, because the lovely gleaming colour is the draw, and they look fantastic with diamonds.

So please make sure you see the actual white sapphires being proposed for the three stone in a variety of lighting conditions before going ahead with that one.