shape
carat
color
clarity

Opinion on Emerald

OoohShiny

Ideal_Rock
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Joined
Apr 25, 2014
Messages
8,228
Is 'Affinity Cut' just Adiamor's in-house name for what they think are the best available?

FWIW, I don't like it. The central band of facets seems to be 'all-off' at the same time - you can see how the main, long facets across the middle all go dark with obstruction from the camera at the same time. This means it is likely to do that in real life, and therefore likely to look dark at some angles.

Ideally, ECs will have a facet pattern that allows the 'steps' to switch on and off across the stone as you move it, rather than all the steps being 'on' or 'off' at the same time. This means it is more visually interesting and should not look dark at any angle, AIUI.

Is US$6k your budget?

Do you desire/require high colour (D-F) and high clarity (VVS+) for cultural reasons or 'mind clean' reasons?


Throwing some options out there:

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.20-carat-f-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-5643541
Perhaps lacking some brightness/contrast in the centre face-on but seems to perform well at all other angles, with only a smidge of windowing.

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.08-carat-e-color-vs1-clarity-sku-5813239
I can't decide if I like this one or not - possible low-contrast in the centre head-on as well.

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.09-carat-g-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-4928964
Some nicely spread-out contrast/obstruction patterning but may need assessment in real life to ascertain if the central band looks grey or bright head-on.

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.05-carat-e-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-5981568
May deliver more 'virtual facet reflections' than direct white-light reflections?

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.09-carat-d-color-vs1-clarity-sku-4743457
May be a bit dominated by the central band, but quite visually interesting.
 

OoohShiny

Ideal_Rock
Premium
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8,228
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.05-carat-e-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-5334684
Those crown facets really seem to be 'pulling up' the pavilion facets, I think. Perhaps majoring on virtual facet reflections rather than direct white light reflects towards the very centre, but interesting contrast patterning and only a smidge of windowing to my eyes.

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.05-carat-e-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-5981568
Similar to the one above in many ways, but perhaps less contrast-y head-on.

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.09-carat-g-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-5860638
A bit window-y at tilt angles (at the bottom of the triangles formed by the facets at the skinny ends, the same as previous stones with some windowing) and maybe lacking brightness/contrast head-on, but looks like it might have that hard-to-find Hall Of Mirrors effect head-on?

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.05-carat-f-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-5579181
I find this one quite visually interesting, although I don't think it's perfect (to my eyes/taste) - perhaps one of my favourites out of the ones listed here?

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.22-carat-f-color-vs1-clarity-sku-5954260
Chunkier facets, strong contrast patterns, minimal windowing - an interesting mix of direct reflections on the main facets and virtual facet reflections on the windmills (I think?).

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.06-carat-f-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-5501132
Similar to the previous one, although the contrast patterns might be a bit more dominant.
 

Matthews1127

Ideal_Rock
Premium
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Apr 7, 2017
Messages
5,207
Hi all,
I have read with emeralds there are no cut proportion to follow or guide you so guessing this is why there is no GIA cut grading on the report

Can I get an opinion on the below diamond please and why is it an Affinity cut ?

https://www.adiamor.com/Diamonds/1.20-ct-F-VVS2-Affinity-Cut-Emerald-Diamond/D42148442

Thanks

I believe, and PLEASE, someone correct me, if I’m wrong, that “Affinity Cut” is a brand that Adiamor uses. It’s a beautiful EC, but it looks dark, face-on. It may be reflection off of the camera.
Have you looked and compared others?
 

Matthews1127

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 7, 2017
Messages
5,207
Is 'Affinity Cut' just Adiamor's in-house name for what they think are the best available?

FWIW, I don't like it. The central band of facets seems to be 'all-off' at the same time - you can see how the main, long facets across the middle all go dark with obstruction from the camera at the same time. This means it is likely to do that in real life, and therefore likely to look dark at some angles.

Ideally, ECs will have a facet pattern that allows the 'steps' to switch on and off across the stone as you move it, rather than all the steps being 'on' or 'off' at the same time. This means it is more visually interesting and should not look dark at any angle, AIUI.

Is US$6k your budget?

Do you desire/require high colour (D-F) and high clarity (VVS+) for cultural reasons or 'mind clean' reasons?


Throwing some options out there:

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.20-carat-f-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-5643541
Perhaps lacking some brightness/contrast in the centre face-on but seems to perform well at all other angles, with only a smidge of windowing.

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.08-carat-e-color-vs1-clarity-sku-5813239
I can't decide if I like this one or not - possible low-contrast in the centre head-on as well.

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.09-carat-g-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-4928964
Some nicely spread-out contrast/obstruction patterning but may need assessment in real life to ascertain if the central band looks grey or bright head-on.

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.05-carat-e-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-5981568
May deliver more 'virtual facet reflections' than direct white-light reflections?

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.09-carat-d-color-vs1-clarity-sku-4743457
May be a bit dominated by the central band, but quite visually interesting.

Of these, I like:
1.20FVVS2
1.08EVS1
1.09DVS1
 

Matthews1127

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 7, 2017
Messages
5,207
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.05-carat-e-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-5334684
Those crown facets really seem to be 'pulling up' the pavilion facets, I think. Perhaps majoring on virtual facet reflections rather than direct white light reflects towards the very centre, but interesting contrast patterning and only a smidge of windowing to my eyes.

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.05-carat-e-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-5981568
Similar to the one above in many ways, but perhaps less contrast-y head-on.

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.09-carat-g-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-5860638
A bit window-y at tilt angles (at the bottom of the triangles formed by the facets at the skinny ends, the same as previous stones with some windowing) and maybe lacking brightness/contrast head-on, but looks like it might have that hard-to-find Hall Of Mirrors effect head-on?

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.05-carat-f-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-5579181
I find this one quite visually interesting, although I don't think it's perfect (to my eyes/taste) - perhaps one of my favourites out of the ones listed here?

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.22-carat-f-color-vs1-clarity-sku-5954260
Chunkier facets, strong contrast patterns, minimal windowing - an interesting mix of direct reflections on the main facets and virtual facet reflections on the windmills (I think?).

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.06-carat-f-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-5501132
Similar to the previous one, although the contrast patterns might be a bit more dominant.

Of these, my favorite is:
1.05FVVS1
 

NickPana

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 31, 2017
Messages
15
Thank you for the great feedback as I have no idea what to look for in an EC. This helps !

Ideally would like 1.20ct and up with the length at least 7.40. It's being set on a platinum so G colour would be fine. Not too fussed with clarity but I have read with EC you need to go at least VS1 to ensure eye clean.

Budget is 6-7k

Thanks
 

tyty333

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 17, 2008
Messages
27,238
Short list of what I* look for...

- stone should "light up" all the way down into the center. A lot of stones dont do anything down in the center. You want to eliminate these stones.
Here is a stone where the center is not doing anything.
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/0.70-carat-d-color-vs2-clarity-sku-5072285

- not too many steps "on" or "off" at the same time...it looks like the stone you posted has a lot of steps "off", as in not reflecting light, at the same
time making the stone look dark...you want to have a combination of some steps reflecting light while others may be "off" to give contrast. As the
stone moves the "off" steps should light up and the "on" steps may go dark.
This stone has too many steps off at the same time
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/0.75-carat-g-color-vs1-clarity-sku-5631742

Good example of nice emerald...steps about the same size, lighting up all the way into the center and not too many on or off at the same time.
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/0.71-carat-g-color-vs2-clarity-sku-5274059

Sometimes you can find stones that sort of step you down into the center in step order and then walk your eye back out.
 

NickPana

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 31, 2017
Messages
15
I can see the difference...Thank you !

Am I right in saying there is no "affinity" or "ideal" cut for EC and the table and depth combo doesn't really tell you much unless you see the stone.
 

Matthews1127

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 7, 2017
Messages
5,207
I can see the difference...Thank you !

Am I right in saying there is no "affinity" or "ideal" cut for EC and the table and depth combo doesn't really tell you much unless you see the stone.

The only IDEAL cut EC’s available, at the present moment are Brian Gavin’s. You’ll pay a premium for them, so I don’t know if you’ll reach your desired length, and carat weight in a BGD Ideal Cut EC. It wouldn’t hurt to check them out, or reach out to him.

https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/diamond/search-for-diamonds/emerald

You CANNOT judge an EC by its certificate. Preference plays a huge role in selecting the right EC for YOU.
Fancy cut diamonds have very different personalities, and, although they appear similar, they are all quite different; no two are alike.
There are perfectly eye clean SI graded EC’s out there. They just aren’t easy to find. Mine is a 1.07GSI2, and it actually has better clarity than the D VS EC’s I’ve compared it to....with the naked eye, and, again, under 10x & 30x magnification.
Never judge a book by its cover. Use as many visual aids as possible to see what sings to you. Video & ASET will be helpful, especially if you don’t have the privilege of viewing the diamond in person.

The thread to my “Unicorn”:
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/meet-uisce.231677/
 

OoohShiny

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 25, 2014
Messages
8,228
I am not that familiar with the adiamor lighting setup for their videos - it doesn't seem as bright as James Allen's setup, so it's hard to compare the two.

Of those two diamonds, they look like they have interesting obstruction/contrast patterns but it's hard to tell how bright they are.
 

lambskin

Ideal_Rock
Premium
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Aug 22, 2012
Messages
3,054
No, nope, nada, no way. Not a fan of the cut at all.
 

Matthews1127

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 7, 2017
Messages
5,207
Thank you and will ask the crown %

I have been reviewing everyone's posts and I hope the below are an improvement on my first diamond pick.

Can you let me know the good and the bad with these diamond please.

https://www.adiamor.com/Diamonds/1....1&b=6.554&utm_source=rarecarat&utm_medium=cpc

https://www.adiamor.com/Diamonds/1....1&b=6.265&utm_source=rarecarat&utm_medium=cpc

Thanks

Of the two, I’d consider 1.30GVS1
An ASET report will be helpful to know how well it performs, face-up. If you are interested, Place it on hold & request an ASET, ASAP.
 

Ella

Brilliant_Rock
Staff member
Premium
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Jan 18, 2010
Messages
1,624
A reminder that trade members may NOT comment on diamonds under consideration, whether positive or negative.
 

NickPana

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 31, 2017
Messages
15
Ok thanks will chase up the ASET image and post.

I am a newbie with EC and finding it difficult to filter the good from the bad...if you come across a EC that has my criteria please post

1.20ct +
G +
VS2 +
Length 1.50
Ratio 1.40

Much appreciated
 

Matthews1127

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 7, 2017
Messages
5,207
Ok thanks will chase up the ASET image and post.

I am a newbie with EC and finding it difficult to filter the good from the bad...if you come across a EC that has my criteria please post

1.20ct +
G +
VS2 +
Length 1.50
Ratio 1.40

Much appreciated

Keep in mind, once you decide on a vendor, or more than one (options are nice), you can reach out to request that they source EC’s meeting your criterion. You may have limited choices, online, based upon your particular preferences, but that doesn’t mean a vendor can’t try to find you something else that may be closer to what you’re looking for.
I will continue to keep my eye out for you. I’ll post any that may be of interest.
 

NickPana

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 31, 2017
Messages
15
Thank you !

Truth is, all the EC ive viewed look amazing but im sure there are the good and bad which with my novice eyes can't quite spot.

I do appreciate all the help everyone has given.

Thanks again
 

OoohShiny

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 25, 2014
Messages
8,228
Thank you !

Truth is, all the EC ive viewed look amazing but im sure there are the good and bad which with my novice eyes can't quite spot.

I do appreciate all the help everyone has given.

Thanks again
Don't forget that stores spend good money on carefully designed lighting that makes even the worst-cut stones look nice ;-)

Make sure to ask to see stones in natural 'flat' daylight, near the window or even outside, and do the 'under the table' test to see what they look like in darker lighting conditions! (Just tell them before you do the latter ;-) lol)
 
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