If you went custom on an engagement ring, why (or why not)?

[Ilovecarbon]

I am just stupendously curious as to why some individuals chose custom versus "off the rack" - there are obviously no rights and wrongs, just reasons.

 

[whitewave]

To me, there is a ring and then there is a RING.

I had my asscher set in a solitaire with plain shank and after 4 years, I decided I wanted a RING. so I went custom, and now my RING is very me.

 

[whitewave]

Oh, also, there were shortcomings and things that bothered me about my stone in the solitaire. Mostly that it lacked presence and didn’t show off that chunky depth of the asscher.

I felt with a custom setting, I could address these issues and sure enough, a custom setting fixed everything that was bothering me.

 

[icy_jade]

I wanted to go custom but ran out of time and got an off the rack design instead. Totally a timing issue... so is due to bad planning I guess

 

[diamondseeker2006]

It all depends on whether there is a stock setting you love. Some people look at rings by Caysie of CVB Inspired Design or Victor Canera, etc. and find the style rings they love and choose custom. It's as simple as that!

 

[Blingalingaling]

There are several reasons for wanting a custom setting.

One is for finer detailing or better quality of workmanship: Custom work costs more, but generally speaking, the results are a more beautifully made setting with attention to detail that fits your stone.

You want a unique type of setting: Let's say you want to have a setting that's different from any settings you've seen or you want to combine aspects of more than one setting you've admired. In that case, having a custom setting made where you can "tweak" the details and come up with something to your specific liking will be the way to go.

If you want a halo setting: To create a ring where there are no gaps between the stone and the halo or bezel, you will most probably need to go custom. This is true for almost any shape that you would put into a halo unless, of course, the ring is designed to have the space (an airline). It would be even more important for a pear shaped stone, for example, or a marquise, where each stone has been cut to unique proportions and shape.

If your stone is too large, too deep or just wouldn't fit into a stock setting: Although there are many stock settings available, they do not fit every stone. So there will be times when only a custom setting will work with your stone.

I hope this helps you! What are you thinking about doing with your stone and what shape is it?

 

[whitewave]

^^^. Very true,

My unset sapphire can likely only go in a custom setting.

 

[Acinom]

For me, the diamond, stone or pearl is mostly the basis and I like settings that are designed around those.

I love rings with a story and for a special occassion and I love ‘something special’.

My OEC diamond is 5+ carats and I thought it deserved a tailor made approach. Via PS I discovered french cuts which automatically led to custom as the frenchies are cut to fit the dimensions of the center stone

 

[tyty333]

I tried to go custom but got tired of waiting on the CAD process and found an off-the-shelf that I liked just as much.

I was not disappointed at all with going off-the-shelf.

 

[bludiva]

Would have rather purchased off the shelf but couldn't find anything I liked enough

 

[LJsapphire]

I didn’t have a custom but I got a rare/unique ring, with quite fine detailing and at an excellent price because he bought an antique piece from an antique shop as opposed to a jeweller. Other people say it is very “me” I would like to think he did a good job!

The only thing I would do differently if I went fully custom would be to have a purple sapphire as the centre stone. I still love my blue one I’m hoping to get a purple stone in future for a RHR instead.

 

[sledge]

I had pulled all my hair out looking for a setting for my girl. Then I'm pretty sure all my wonderful helpers here on PS had nearly pulled out all their hair. While I'm sure they would all look gloriously beautiful and totally rock the bald look, I figured it'd only be right to let them keep a few strands of hair so their husbands didn't kill me.



Seriously -- my girl nearly drove all us insane looking for "the" setting. It happened in a Jared's of all places and I couldn't bring myself to buy a crap setting to stick my, ummmm...her, gorgeous BGD super ideal diamond in. Plus it needed modifications, etc and Jared's wouldn't play ball without hefty charges and stupid long wait times. Not to mention I didn't trust them to begin with, so letting them modify something with their rep pretty much terrified me.

Soooo...I went with David Klass. Best decision I made. Took inspiration, refined it and breathed in perfection in ways I didn't even know was going to happen. I'd never designed/built a ring before, but with this awesome community they pulled me through.

If you want more details....

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/dk-bgd-custom-setting-the-home-stretch.240843/

 

[david b]

I am just stupendously curious as to why some individuals chose custom versus "off the rack" - there are obviously no rights and wrongs, just reasons.

Here are some thoughts
There is a plethora of online jewellery companies offering a huge variety of engagement rings. You have the choice of all kinds of settings and different types of diamondsto choose from. However difficulties may arise when it comes to settling on a ring that is exactly right for you. After all, too much variety is not necessarily a good thing.
Designing your own ring can solve this problem easily as you are in control of the ring itself from the very beginning. You do not need to be a jewellery expert to do this. All you need to know are the basic rules of diamonds, including cut, clarity, color and carat, you need to be sure about your budget and, most importantly you need to know what kind of ring will suit your hand. The process can be enjoyable because it gives you a large extent of participation in the making of the most exciting and special piece of jewellery you will ever own. Furthermore, the engagement ringis not only a reflection of the love you share with your partner, it is also a true expression of your individuality and style as a woman. So who better to deign it than you?
The fantastic thing about designing your own ringis that you can blend different types of settings with the diamond of your choice. You may prefer the simplicity and elegance of a solitaire engagement ringor you might wish for something a little more unique like yellow diamond ring. Whatever you choose, the diamond is meant to highlight the special occasion for which it is being worn so make sure it demonstrates how you feel about your big day.
Once you know what kind of diamond shape is best for you, build the ring together, as a couple. It may or may not be the first investment you make together, but it is truly an exciting investment. So make it your own from the very beginning.

Enjoy creating

David Braverman

 

[Dancing Fire]

I like simple settings. I'd rather spent the extra money on the stone. The ladies here change their settings as often as I change my underwear. by saving the money on custom settings every 6 months I can buy me another nice stone in two yrs..

 

[Gussie]

I has an off the rack for many years and never knew what i was missing. Upgrade time came, found ps, and now I wouldn't trade my custom cvb ring for any other one.

I adore a beautiful stone but a fabulous setting is the icing on the cake to me!

 

[JPie]

The jewelry store selling the setting I wanted went out of business, and after doing some research we found that the company that made the setting also went under. That's why my husband went the custom route; unfortunately, the jeweler did a poor job. I had it reset again before the wedding, but that custom job wasn't any better.

Years later, I found a designer I really liked so I had him customize one of his signature designs for my stone. I'm finally done!

 

[sledge]

The jewelry store selling the setting I wanted went out of business, and after doing some research we found that the company that made the setting also went under. That's why my husband went the custom route; unfortunately, the jeweler did a poor job. I had it reset again before the wedding, but that custom job wasn't any better.

Years later, I found a designer I really liked so I had him customize one of his signature designs for my stone. I'm finally done!

Sad story with a happy ending.

And we all like happy endings.

 

[MarionC]

After trying the custom route a couple of times, I was happier with stock settings tweeked a little by a good bench.
Custom is a hassle and you don't always get exactly what you want without much ado. There are more elements to a truly visually balanced ring than is obvious. The more you know, the more complex it gets trying to have your vision facilitated.
I don’t have the fortitude to go custom again after two expensive custom projects that took forever and did not thrill.

 

[Dancing Fire]

My wife's 14K WG ring have turned yellow color and I'm too cheap to spend $1900 on a Vatche 6 prong PT setting. I like this one.

https://www.whiteflash.com/engageme...n-solitaire-engagement-ring-by-vatche-627.htm

 

[whitewave]

My wife's 14K WG ring have turned yellow color and I'm too cheap to spend $1900 on a Vatche 6 prong PT setting. I like this one.

https://www.whiteflash.com/engageme...n-solitaire-engagement-ring-by-vatche-627.htm

My new favorite thing is unplated white gold

 

[LLJsmom]

I am super picky. Either I settle for a ring that is “whatever” or I go all out and get exactly what I want. I’m too old to settle, so I went all out.

 

[sledge]

My wife's 14K WG ring have turned yellow color and I'm too cheap to spend $1900 on a Vatche 6 prong PT setting. I like this one.

https://www.whiteflash.com/engageme...n-solitaire-engagement-ring-by-vatche-627.htm

Have you talked to DK? You've seen my girl's e-ring and the complexity and stones involved. I didn't pay much more for all that. I'd think DK could easily replicate that Vatche design for considerably less money, and in either platinum or their unplated WG/palladium alloy. While I went with the WG/palladium alloy, it was only $200 cheaper to do so.

I was a little confused why it wasn't much cheaper. It was explained they DK does not use the traditional cheap yellow gold with rhodium plating to form "white gold". Instead they mix with palladium and it's unplated so you get the shiny and never have to replate. Structurally, this is the metal DK recommended for my girls ring. But it's a good option too if your girl likes shiny but you don't want to deal with body chemicals eating away at the rhodium plating and the expense and time involved to have the ring re-plated.

My point is I bet DK could replicate in platinum or their special WG/palladium mix for much cheaper than ordering through Vatche.

My new favorite thing is unplated white gold

You referring to the special WG/palladium alloy I discussed above? Who else uses besides DK?

 

[yssie]

I've had several custom pieces made. With most of my custom projects... I went that route because I wanted specific elements that stock designs didn't feature - I started those projects with a reasonably clear vision of what I wanted. WF's Butterflies was actually my first custom project

Then there's my RDG. My most treasured piece. I went into it with quite literally no concept of what I wanted - a thoroughly disconcerting feeling for me! - and gave the designer photos of flatware, furniture, and flowers, and asked him to make me something "asymmetric, unpredictable, and whimsical", and the first sketch he sent - devoid though it was of nearly any detail - took my breath away He brought to life something more beautiful than I could ever have come up with. Here's that initial sketch... though I suspect its magic is completely lost in translation



And the finished piece with different leaf and curl patterns on each face. Fully hand-forged.








My current stone is in an off-the-shelf setting that suits her perfectly.

I will never, ever recommend custom if the design you want is available off-the-shelf in the quality you're looking for:
1. The original designer deserves credit and monetary compensation for the time and effort he put into the original design. I have no patience whatsoever for vendors who steal other designers' intellectual property.
2. Custom work is more risky in pretty much every way, and usually more pricey - no need to take on unnecessary risk and expense!

 

[baby monster]

I found a company that had the semi-bezel setting I liked and they made the setting to fit my stone. It was slightly modified because they usually don't make it for stones over 2ctw. If i wanted a very ornate/intricate design, I would get a custom setting.

 

[yssie]

You referring to the special WG/palladium alloy I discussed above? Who else uses besides DK?

There are a great many alloys of WG, all of which can be left unplated by any designer. The only restriction is when you by a pre-finished mount off-the-shelf. Unplated WG isn't a "new" thing by any means

Palladium WG is an excellent option for consumers who want the scratch-resistance of gold and the whiteness of platinum without the plating regimen; other consumers like me appreciate the variants of light yellow that different non-palladium alloys showcase... the setting I posed above is "tri-coloured" in shades of yellow, and uses two different alloys of unplated 18k WG (and one alloy of 18k YG).

I've posted this pic elsewhere on PS - these are some bands and rings I've had made by various jewellers over the years. The middle five are all 18k WG (unplated, various alloys), bookended by platinum on the left and 14k YG on the right.


Alloy composition: https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/diamond-color-and-metal-options.191295/

 

[HappyNewLife]

I took an "off the rack" setting and had them customize it slightly to make it my dream ring

 

[whitewave]

Have you talked to DK? You've seen my girl's e-ring and the complexity and stones involved. I didn't pay much more for all that. I'd think DK could easily replicate that Vatche design for considerably less money, and in either platinum or their unplated WG/palladium alloy. While I went with the WG/palladium alloy, it was only $200 cheaper to do so.

I was a little confused why it wasn't much cheaper. It was explained they DK does not use the traditional cheap yellow gold with rhodium plating to form "white gold". Instead they mix with palladium and it's unplated so you get the shiny and never have to replate. Structurally, this is the metal DK recommended for my girls ring. But it's a good option too if your girl likes shiny but you don't want to deal with body chemicals eating away at the rhodium plating and the expense and time involved to have the ring re-plated.

My point is I bet DK could replicate in platinum or their special WG/palladium mix for much cheaper than ordering through Vatche.




You referring to the special WG/palladium alloy I discussed above? Who else uses besides DK?

Caysie Van Bebber just did one in unplated white gold and it is yery slightly yellow gold and I love it,

I had been wondering about a light yellow gold since I like platinum and my daughter (who has my husband’s coloring) likes rose or yellow gold. This light yellow would be a nice compromise.

 

[sledge]

I've had several custom pieces made. With most of my custom projects... I went that route because I wanted specific elements that stock designs didn't feature - I started those projects with a reasonably clear vision of what I wanted. WF's Butterflies was actually my first custom project

Then there's my RDG. My most treasured piece. I went into it with quite literally no concept of what I wanted - a thoroughly disconcerting feeling for me! - and gave the designer photos of flatware, furniture, and flowers, and asked him to make me something "asymmetric, unpredictable, and whimsical", and the first sketch he sent - devoid though it was of nearly any detail - took my breath away He brought to life something more beautiful than I could ever have come up with. Here's that initial sketch... though I suspect its magic is completely lost in translation



And the finished piece with different leaf and curl patterns on each face. Fully hand-forged.








My current stone is in an off-the-shelf setting that suits her perfectly.

I will never, ever recommend custom if the design you want is available off-the-shelf in the quality you're looking for:
1. The original designer deserves credit and monetary compensation for the time and effort he put into the original design. I have no patience whatsoever for vendors who steal other designers' intellectual property.
2. Custom work is more risky in pretty much every way, and usually more pricey - no need to take on unnecessary risk and expense!

Wow @yssie, that is just absolutely freakin' gorgeous! Love the unique design and amount of detail.

I noticed you threw out some initials I am not familiar with, do you care to share more details about the designers you utilized, or maybe still utilize?

There are a great many alloys of WG, all of which can be left unplated by any designer. The only restriction is when you by a pre-finished mount off-the-shelf. Unplated WG isn't a "new" thing by any means

Palladium WG is an excellent option for consumers who want the scratch-resistance of gold and the whiteness of platinum without the plating regimen; other consumers like me appreciate the variants of light yellow that different non-palladium alloys showcase... the setting I posed above is "tri-coloured" in shades of yellow, and uses two different alloys of unplated 18k WG (and one alloy of 18k YG).

I've posted this pic elsewhere on PS - these are some bands and rings I've had made by various jewellers over the years. The middle five are all 18k WG (unplated, various alloys), bookended by platinum on the left and 14k YG on the right.


Alloy composition: https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/diamond-color-and-metal-options.191295/

Interesting. Thank you for sharing and educating me.

I personally like white metals. Being a guy I don't own lots of jewelry but have never cared for the yellow gold stuff much. I think the most yellow I've ever owned was a Jeep Wrangler at one point, and it was bright canary yellow (when it wasn't covered in mud or some other grime).

 

[Babyblue033]

I've had several custom pieces made. With most of my custom projects... I went that route because I wanted specific elements that stock designs didn't feature - I started those projects with a reasonably clear vision of what I wanted. WF's Butterflies was actually my first custom project

Then there's my RDG. My most treasured piece. I went into it with quite literally no concept of what I wanted - a thoroughly disconcerting feeling for me! - and gave the designer photos of flatware, furniture, and flowers, and asked him to make me something "asymmetric, unpredictable, and whimsical", and the first sketch he sent - devoid though it was of nearly any detail - took my breath away He brought to life something more beautiful than I could ever have come up with. Here's that initial sketch... though I suspect its magic is completely lost in translation



And the finished piece with different leaf and curl patterns on each face. Fully hand-forged.








My current stone is in an off-the-shelf setting that suits her perfectly.

I will never, ever recommend custom if the design you want is available off-the-shelf in the quality you're looking for:
1. The original designer deserves credit and monetary compensation for the time and effort he put into the original design. I have no patience whatsoever for vendors who steal other designers' intellectual property.
2. Custom work is more risky in pretty much every way, and usually more pricey - no need to take on unnecessary risk and expense!

Wow, just wow. Now THAT is why you go custom, that is one of the most impressive ring I have ever seen, it's absolutely beautiful and so unique!

 

[yssie]

Thanks Babyblue, Sledge!

Sledge - you're probably asking about "RDG"? Robinson Designer Goldsmith was a father/sons operation in NZ - they moved onto bigger and better things a few years ago. A handful of PSers were lucky to have pieces made by them whilst they were working with private customers - I feel very privileged to own one of their creations

Just thinking about it on the spot here... I know I've worked on custom/"non-stock" pieces with Whiteflash, Erika Winters, Diamonds by Lauren, Caysie van Bebber, Victor Canera, Leon Mege, Hunt Country, Green Lake, Brian Gavin, and a few local outfits... and those vendors are often referred to on PS by initialisms... which definitely becomes alphabet soup quickly...

https://www.whiteflash.com/
https://erikawinters.com/
http://www.diamondsbylauren.com/
https://www.cvbinspireddesign.com/
https://www.victorcanera.com/
https://www.leonmege.com/
https://huntcountry.com/
https://www.greenlakejewelry.com/
https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/