Sourcing antique diamond replacement and prong repair

[EAA]

Recently posted this in the Antique forum, but was told I might get more responses over here in RockyTalky, so apologies if you've already seen this post, but I'd love more feedback if anyone has some.

Hello! I have a antique sapphire cluster ring that needs repair. I've been told it dates to c. 1900. It has a large (5+ carat) pale blue sapphire surrounded by rose and old mine cut diamonds. The stones are set in white gold and the band is yellow gold.

The ring is very special and sentimental to me and I was recently horrified to see that one of the diamonds had fallen out. Tragically, the stone is lost and will need to be replaced. I'm working on getting over that trauma; everyone in my family assures me it will be fine, but I know I won't feel that way until it has been fixed. Honestly, I probably should have found a jeweler sooner to look at the condition of the prongs, but I checked the setting regularly myself and everything seemed secure.

I'd love to get some general advice on repairs. Can anyone recommend a good bench jeweler in the NYC or NY area that is familiar working with antiques? I know a lot about these materials and I work in art conservation, so I know exactly what needs to be done, but am having trouble finding a reputable jeweler with this type of experience. And after reading many horror stories about repairs gone awry, I am hesitant to entrust this piece to just anyone. That being said, I know there must be many talented artisans out there who could do this type of repair.

If anyone has any advice on what questions to ask potential jewelers, those are also welcome. I'm assuming I need someone who has access to a laser for this type of repair as I'm concerned that retipping the prongs with traditional solder will not hold up well for this piece. Thoughts?

Also, I'd like to avoid rhodium plating the prongs if at all possible, but what are your thoughts on rhodium plating antiques? I'm leaning toward more of a repair than a full restoration. The prongs are really worn, so I think that fixing the prongs will already change the aesthetic of the piece a little, but I'd like the ring to be wearable on a regular basis, so I think a large percentage of the prongs will need to be improved a little.

Also, any tips on sourcing a replacement rose cut diamond?

Many thanks in advance!

 

[rockysalamander]

I would start with your approach just as you've done here, find a good jeweler. Have them inspect the ring and condition of the prongs and metal. Unfortunately, gold can become brittle over time as it is worn and exposed to chlorine and salt. Once the plating wore off, the gold was directly in contact with the world. So, the setting repair may be more extensive if what occurred is caused by metal brittleness rather than a simply a worn prong. You also want them to inspect the sapphire and other stones for repair need (although you seem on top of this). If the stones need to be unset, it would be a good time to get them repolished (if needed). I recently had a sapphire sent to Dan Stair for repair (I'll post it over on CS board soon) --we lost a bit of weight, retained face-up size, but its lovely now.

I have a white gold ring from the 1920s that I (and all former owners) wore near daily. The plating has long-ago worn off. But, the underlying white gold is palladium white gold and not nickel based. So, I'm fine with the slightly warmer color against the diamonds. If it had nickel, I would keep it plated. My grandmother who wore the ring was a germaphobe and I know the channels have become brittle and worn. So, this ring will be off for a rebuild soon.

In terms of the rose cut, they are having a renaissance so there should be some available. I'd start with the jeweler you select as they may have some or can acquire them for you. Until you know the color and facet pattern of the stones in the ring, it's hard to know what to look for.

A good distance from NYC, but I've had good luck with Vermont Gem Lab.
http://vermontgemlab.com/repairs-restoration/jewelry-restoration/

 

[EAA]

Thanks rockysalamander! I appreciate the advice. I'll look into Vermont Gem Lab.

Old World Diamonds has been recommended to me. Has anyone had any repairs done there?

 

[rockysalamander]

You could also call and ask Erica at LoveAffairDiamonds and Grace at Jewels by Grace if they have any recommendations for old ring repair jewellers.

Any PSers know if GoodOldGold does vintage ring repair/restoration?

 

[MollyMalone]

I wouldn't hesitate to confer with Adam at Old World Diamonds! He has a very good reputation here on PS; is highly regarded in the trade; and is a super nice, informative, helpful man. Although Adam doesn't do his own bench work, he is in Manhattan & has been in the trade for years, so "knows his way around." I've personally seen spiffed-up antique and vintage settings he's had at hand: the repair/restoration work was well executed. And yep, i too would want the re-tipping done with a laser, so you don't have to think about pulling the sapphire out.

You do need to call him first; he's in a high security building in the Diamond District, so you can't just walk into the lobby & hop on the elevator. And I highly recommend calling; even thought it's 2017, Adam isn't really "into" email, especially for the initial contact ; - )
http://www.oldworlddiamonds.com/contact.php

Do clarify with him whether his/the bench's insurance policy will cover your ring while it's being repaired; many jewelers/benches will not cover damage/loss to "outside" stones or pieces, and colored stones are even more likely to not be covered. If he'd be asking you to waive liability & you're uncomfortable with that, my next recommendation would be Steven Kahan at 5th Ave. & E. 61st Street:
http://www.stephenkahanjewelry.com/pages/repair.php

You could also call and ask Erica at LoveAffairDiamonds and Grace at Jewels by Grace if they have any recommendations for old ring repair jewellers.
Any PSers know if GoodOldGold does vintage ring repair/restoration?

I honestly think that those of us who live/work in NYC or the immediate metro area don't have to ship our vinatage-antique pieces cross-country to Grace in LA or Erica in the state of Washington for a repair or restoration to be done by whatever outside benches they use. Antique-vintage ring repair isn't a service GOG advertises, so I suspect they would farm out the job even if they accepted the ring (plus, GOG would most likely ask Adam to supply the replacement stone anyway).

 

[EAA]

Thanks MollyMalone! I really appreciate all of the great info!

And thanks for the tip about checking their insurance. I do have coverage, but will confirm what mine covers so I know if I need added insurance from them during the repair.

I'd much prefer to get the repair done locally, if I can. (I've had bad experiences shipping antique objects that I was much less attached to than this ring!) And I'm hoping since I live in the NYC area that there are specialists here that can do this work.

Someone else offline just recommended Gray and Davis. Has anyone worked with their bench jeweler?

 

[MollyMalone]

I'm doubting Gray & Davis has an in-house bench at their new, much swankier quarters in the West Village; their current web site says they "facilitate" repairs:
http://www.grayanddavis.com/repairs/

Don't know if G&D is still using the same bench as several years ago, but FWIW they did not do a great job of setting an emerald into one of their vintage semi-mounts; think the problem was actually that the emerald could not be seated properly into the head of the vintage semi-mount they sold this PSer because that original head was not well-suited to her stone (a job different than what you'd be asking them to handle, but still disappointing imo that they pitched it to her):
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...etting-frustration.195128/page-2#post-3575824
That thread is the only bench-related G&D account I know of.

I was going to also suggest Doyle & Doyle, but it turns out they are now doing repairs only on their own merchandise:
https://www.doyledoyle.com/faq

One more possibility: Greenwich St. Jewelers downtown. They don't specialize in antique jewelry, but their bench is in-house, the head bench jeweler (assuming it's the same) has been with them for years; I know they do laser welding (they resized a tourmaline ring for me, which was pre-loved but not antique); nice people to do business with.
https://www.greenwichjewelers.com/repairs-restoration/

 

[EAA]

Good to know! It's so hard to find anyone who has a reputable in-house bench jeweler. Everyone seems to outsource.

Another friend recommended Doyle & Doyle as they shopped there. Can anyone speak about experiences having repairs done there? I'll pass along any advice to my friend if they ever need their purchases repaired.

I really appreciate all of the advice. I'm new to the forum, but it seems like such a great resource and everyone is so nice about sharing their experiences!