Round Brilliant Help - GIA - Need Expert Review

[wizardman123]

Hey Guys,

I haven't posted in a while but a long time lurker. I bought my e-ring with your help from Diamonds by Lauren - a beautiful fancy intense yellow cushion in a hand crafted halo setting. But now it is my time to help my brother find his dream e-ring for his beautiful soon to be fiancee!

He would like to spend around $ 10,000 CDN funds for the ring and setting. A round brilliant in a split shank halo in yellow gold. He was hoping for 1.25ct to 1.5ct. I took a trip across the border for my stone and we are not averse to doing that again - but he would like it in roughly 2 weeks time (also need to consider the currency conversion which makes our 10k cdn about 8k usd). I read a lot when I was buying my own but mainly focused on fancy coloured stones so I am relying on your help to point us in the right direction. He does not have any colour preference or clarity requirement - just so long as it is pricescope quality with the GIA cert.

He did find one locally with a long time jeweler friend of our fathers who quoted him about $ 11,800 for the following stone and cast setting. It ranks higher than 2.0 on the HCA but need your advice if it is a good stone or if we can find better with a different Canadian supplier or from a US supplier.

GIA: https://www.gia.edu/report-check?reportno=6232490012



Thank you for your help!

 

[rockysalamander]

No for me to that diamond. Its not within ideal number nor is it a good 60/60.

Looking at diamonds now, but does he really want to put that much into a setting? On JamesAllen, that setting is $2370 usd. So, $8000-2370=$5630. That is a huge chunk of his budget. I'll start looking assume yes, but you might want to check. I've listed below some alternative settings. But, I don't want to lead him off his path otherwise?

Will the setting be rose gold like the inspiration?

Split Shank-Halo
https://www.jamesallen.com/engageme...e-halo-split-shank-engagement-ring-item-55430

Single Shank Halo
https://www.jamesallen.com/engageme...-edge-pave-diamond-engagement-ring-item-49492

Solitiares
https://www.jamesallen.com/engageme...dern-tulip-diamond-engagement-ring-item-50671

https://www.jamesallen.com/engageme...e-flower-solitaire-engagement-ring-item-50125

 

[wizardman123]

Thanks for such a quick reply! He is set on the style and it will be yellow gold. He knows it will be a lot to invest in the setting, however, its what she loves

 

[ChrisMan]

Brother here. Mr Wizard handles this fanciness for me, is there an emoji for "this goes over my head easily"?

All her jewlery is Yellow Gold - would like the setting to be the same.
She is also quite set on that setting. Have a bit of wiggle room on the $10000 but in and around is best.
The jeweler today said the forks would be white though.

Price for cast setting was $1500. Stone was 10300.

Thank you all.
Chris

 

[rockysalamander]

No on the vendor diamond. Its angles are not good enough for you lady. For time sake, lets find a diamond and see if the same vendor can get you a setting...

I'm only going to post stones that the vendor likely has in-house as you don't have time to get a stone from India and get it set. That adds a bit to the cost per carat. These both look good. I would choose #2. Put any you like on hold while I and others look for more options.

JA - Does not have any store-front, so factor in the conversion/taxes on budget. I suck at that being in the US!
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...j-color-si1-clarity-excellent-cut-sku-2519532, 6.77 mm (good light return, bigger spread, stricter on color, looser on cut)

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...rat-j-color-si1-clarity-ideal-cut-sku-2291616, 6.69 mm** (Best light return, AGS000 which is stricter for cut, little looser on color)

Give me some thoughts on these two stones. If you want bigger, we have to up the budget. Your call, but I'll give you a few more to look at while you ponder.

 

[ChrisMan]

You do work quickly - wow!
I would like to have above 1.25 - I can work a bit more into the budget.
In the picture you can see what I was shown today - a 1.41 and 1.2 and the 1.2 looks mighty smaller!
But I appreciate your keen eye on the details - I have a picky lady who would appreciate that too

Thank you -
Chris

 

[rockysalamander]

What size is her finger? One thing to keep in mind is that the setting she choose will be very very hard to resize, so make sure her ring size is exact with a "wide sizer". If you have any doubt, get that sorted asap.

Assuming we add $1000 usd to the diamond budget and I keep size as the priority.

#3 - https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...rat-j-color-vs1-clarity-ideal-cut-sku-3487491, 6.97 mm {Solid performance. nice contrast in the arrows)

#4 - https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...rat-j-color-vs1-clarity-ideal-cut-sku-3039652, 6.81 mm great idealscope image showing performance}

#3 on left, #4 on right (does not show halo, size 6.5)

 

[rockysalamander]

This is the closest halo to the inspiration. It has right shank with a deep joining of the bands. But, the diamonds in the halo are larger than the inspiration. The diamonds in the halo of the inspiration are much smaller. Not really good or bad, just pointing out difference.

https://www.jamesallen.com/engageme...e-halo-split-shank-engagement-ring-item-55430

 

[ChrisMan]

I dont mind that setting at all - but my issue is they dont sell it in yellow gold.
Would you recommend I ask the jeweler I saw today if she will do just the setting?

Thanks!
Chris

 

[rockysalamander]

Darn. YG is sorta unpopular right now, so not all setting come in that color. Bummer. Go with your local jeweler for the setting. Send them the GIA cert for the diamond you select (did you make a choice?) and have them order the setting -- make sure they can get it in time and set the stone before you ship the stone from JA. You may need to pay an expedited shipping charge from JA.

Your brother mentioned driving to pickup the ring. Before contacting your local jeweler, contact ID Jewelry in New York. See if they can get a setting that matches in time, along with set the diamond. If they can, you can have JA send the diamond directly to them for setting. Then, you could have a drive to New York to pick the ring up.

They have this, but they might be able to give you a PS discount and or get an equivalent less expensive one.
https://idjewelry.com/round-halo-en...gold-with-platinum-head-0-59ct-tw-cr495w.html

Whichever you go with, I would tell them to set the diamond low in the halo. You want the girdle of the diamond to float just over the halo. See below inspiration photo. Setting it higher will NOT make the diamond look bigger, it tends to make the diamond and setting look disconnected IMHO. I would keep the prongs white gold and tell them you want "delicate claw prongs". Like halo #1 below. That will match the inspiration photo you posted.

 

[farrahlyn]

i will echo calling IDJewelry and see what they can find you, stone AND setting. Gabriel has some nice split shank halo settings, just have to find out if they'll do it in yellow gold.

 

[ac117]

Agree with calling IDJ and speaking with Yekutiel. I believe they have previously shipped to a FedEx location close to the Canadian border for pickup. Good luck!

 

[rockysalamander]

@ChrisMan @wizardman123 Just checking in. How's it going?

 

[ChrisMan]

Hey Rocky!

Sorry for the delay - work has been insane. But - progress!
Called and spoke with Yekutiel @ IDJ and we are working on a setting!

Ill post up soon!

Chris

 

[ChrisMan]

@rockysalamander

Here is his recommendation - what do you think!

https://idjewelry.com/round-sdn978.html
https://www.gabrielny.com/engagement-ring/ER4112W44JJ

Thank you!
Chris

 

[rockysalamander]

Hmmm...not a fan of the 36 crown angle and the depth exceeding 62.3. I'm having a heck of a time with IDJ's website, but I think I searched the whole thing and these are the ones I'd inquire about. IDJ may also have a good 60/60 that is certainly worth considering.

https://idjewelry.com/round-mhc13037 - {1.3 I SI1, this looks better on paper, but need photos and an IS or ASET. The additional clouds and knots are my main concerns.}

https://idjewelry.com/round-dk17957.html {1.42 I SI1, ask if additional clouds make the stone...cloudy}

https://idjewelry.com/catalog/product/view/_ignore_category/1/id/2407166/s/round-egrs-6373/ {1.21 I VVS2, worried about thin girdle)

https://idjewelry.com/round-ci175003902.html {1.27 H SI1, really like the numbers, but ask about additional clouds}

Here are the ranges many of us use.
table: 52-57.5
depth: 60-62.3
crown angle: 34-35 (up to 35.5 crown angle can sometimes work with a 40.6 pav angle)
pavilion angle: 40.6-40.9 (sometimes 41.0 if the crown angle is close to 34)

I often refer to the AGSL Proportion chart to check for how a GIA diamond would score if it were AGSL. https://agslab.com/docs/pbcg/AGSLProportionCharts.pdf

 

[ChrisMan]

What do you guys think of this one?

Thank you!
Chris

 

[rockysalamander]

Numbers look good. I like that the table is below 57%. It would likely achieve Excellent, not Ideal from AGS (the more strict on cut). A gemologist needs to review the diamond to be sure the additional clouds are not impacting the diamonds. No video was linked, so I can't comment on the clarity. Can they provide an ASET image?

#5 - https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...g-color-si1-clarity-excellent-cut-sku-3230863 {raises color to G which is very white. One major inclusion in center of table, but white. Inquire is eyeclean and about clouds impacting performance; chubby arrows which provide better contrast which is good.} 6.83 mm

# 6 - https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...color-si1-clarity-excellent-cut-sku-3541277** {My favorite of the bunch; I like the 54% table and angles. Central inclusion should be eyeclean as it disappears at 10x, but you'll have to decide how you feel about it; same question on clouds} 6.98 mm

#7 - Pushes your budget up to $7734 usd, but is a beautiful diamond at 1.2 I VS2. Super ideal ACA with TOTL performance. WF has great benefits for buyers. In YG, I in a super-ideal should not be an issue.
https://www.whiteflash.com/loose-diamonds/round-cut-loose-diamond-3785267.htm, 6.83 mm

Presentation solitaire - https://www.whiteflash.com/engageme...ffany-style-solitaire-engagement-ring-588.htm

My concern for any of the stones you find on IDJ and the JA ones I posted here is that they are presently more than likely overseas. If you really want to stick to your proposal deadline posted above, I would personally get the WF stone, which is located in Texas, and have them set it into a presentation solitaire. Get engaged. Then, involve your girl in picking the setting. Second choice would be one of the two below from JA. You are running out of time to get anything in hand by your deadline.

#3 - https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...rat-j-color-vs1-clarity-ideal-cut-sku-3487491, 6.97 mm {Solid performance. nice contrast in the arrows)

#4 - https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...rat-j-color-vs1-clarity-ideal-cut-sku-3039652, 6.81 mm great idealscope image showing performance}

 

[Karl_K]

56/34/40.6 would get ags0 in a heartbeat with decent cutting.
The grade setting inclusion being a cloud however needs to be checked.

 

[ChrisMan]

Here you are! Mind if I ask how to understand these if you were to ELI5. Thanks!

 

[Karl_K]

all of the images look good but I am a little concerned about the clouds.
Ask him to look at it and give an opinion on scatter(snow globe effect) in that area and eye visibility.
that is the 56/34/40.6 you posted the report for above?

 

[ChrisMan]

all of the images look good but I am a little concerned about the clouds.
Ask him to look at it and give an opinion on scatter(snow globe effect) in that area and eye visibility.
that is the 56/34/40.6 you posted the report for above?

I'm not sure he has it in hand. This is it here.
https://www.jamesallen.com/mobile/l...color-si1-clarity-true-hearts-cut-sku-3589927

Thanks!

 

[Karl_K]

I'm not sure he has it in hand. This is it here.
https://www.jamesallen.com/mobile/l...color-si1-clarity-true-hearts-cut-sku-3589927

Thanks!

yes it is the one.
Have him give you an opinion on the clouds.
Otherwise everything looks ok.

 

[ac117]

Those images look lovely! It should be a stunning diamond! He definitely has the stone in hand since he took those images. I agree with Karl that you should ask Yekutiel to confirm the clouds have no detrimental effect but otherwise, I think this is a great choice.

 

[rockysalamander]

I also concur with Karl_K that this needs to be evaluated for eyeclean status from above and from a typical viewing angle when set. Since the inclusions are black, they may be more visible than ideal. The one between 6 andn 7 on the table needs to be reviewed.

The two blue/white images (#2 & 3) are Hearts & Arrows (these can also be red/white). They show you the actual faceting of the stone. You are looking for all the same ‘type’ of feature (heart, arrow, pigeon toes) are the same in size and shape and lenght. You also want to see they are are consistent in color and that the hearts have no clefts/tears. Your stone has high symmetry and good cuts. https://www.pricescope.com/wiki/diamonds/hearts-and-arrows-diamonds

The all red with some white (#5) is an Idealscope image. It shows you the light return (performance) of the diamond. You are looking for edge-to-edge red/green. If there was leakage under table, you would see a white/grey ring around the center.
https://www.pricescope.com/tools/ideal-scope

The multicolor images are ASET (#1 & 4), one with a white and one with a black background). They are the same concept as the Idealscope, but they break the light return into colors. Those colors tell you more about performance. The blue arrows show blocked light (that is good) and you are looking for lots of red. Again, leakage looks white/gray. Yours shows no problems. You can also use the ASET to evaluate some aspects of cut and symmetry. https://www.pricescope.com/journal/what-aset-reveals-ideal-scope-does-not