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New to custom settings: how much is too much?

immt

Rough_Rock
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Jul 22, 2017
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7
IMG_1786.PNG Looking to do a custom setting that is VERY similar to this; however, it's going to have a six-pronged white gold crown, as well as four baguettes on either side of the stone (in the v-shaped portions). Additionally, the band will be 14k yellow gold.

I went back to a jeweler I've used in the past and they quoted me $3,300 to do the setting, and after some discussion they brought it down to $3,080. Nonetheless, $3,080 still seems rather high to me, especially since I'm providing them with all of the stones.

Any insight into this would be appreciated!

Edit: Center stone is an old mine cut and is around 1.1 carats
 
Last edited:

Niel

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Jul 23, 2012
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I hate to ring the "have David klass do it!" Bell as that seems to be said all too frequently here, but this looks very much like a style he could do with his eyes closed for no more than 1500. Probably closer to 1000
 

SimoneDi

Ideal_Rock
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I second David Klass! His work is beautifu!
 

immt

Rough_Rock
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Jul 22, 2017
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I'll have to look him up. Thank you both for the suggestion!
 

yssie

Super_Ideal_Rock
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I can certainly envision a vendor quoting $3000 for a hand-forged version of this setting by an exceptional bench.

Quality of workmanship, method of manufacture, precision of finish, and value for money may vary greatly between vendors. Whatever you do choose, please consider not asking your jeweller to exactly copy another jeweller's design - I would urge you to instead alter the design somewhat to make it uniquely yours ::)
 

Niel

Super_Ideal_Rock
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I can certainly envision a vendor quoting $3000 for a hand-forged version of this setting by an exceptional bench.

Quality of workmanship, method of manufacture, precision of finish, and value for money may vary greatly between vendors. Whatever you do choose, please consider not asking your jeweller to exactly copy another jeweller's design - I would urge you to instead alter the design somewhat to make it uniquely yours ::)
Yes I was going to say a hand fabricated ring by a somewhat popular bench could run that price, but this design is not complex enough to warrant that, in my opinion. I cannot speak to the level of quality of the bench in question, but this design appears to be easily reproduced by cad renderings and in my opinion could be done by a number of qualified benches for half the price.
 

immt

Rough_Rock
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Jul 22, 2017
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$3080 for this relatively straightforward design sounds too much. Your jeweller's markup is too high.

That's what I thought as well!
 

immt

Rough_Rock
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Jul 22, 2017
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I hate to ring the "have David klass do it!" Bell as that seems to be said all too frequently here, but this looks very much like a style he could do with his eyes closed for no more than 1500. Probably closer to 1000

Should I be contacting David through Pricecsope, or should I reach out to him via his Facebook page?
 

mrs-b

Super_Ideal_Rock
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11,660
Should I be contacting David through Pricecsope, or should I reach out to him via his Facebook page?

Neither. On his FB page you'll find his address, phone number and email. Try emailing and phone; they're very busy so might not respond immediately. If they don't get back to you, call and email again. I'm sure they'll get back to you at that point, if they don't get back to you before that. Don't be discouraged if they don't answer the phone when you call; they're normally out on the floor talking to customers.
 

rockysalamander

Ideal_Rock
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5,105
What was the cost for the baguettes? Was that included in the ~$3k? I ask because Tapered baguettes can be very expensive...especially if you need custom sizes .
 

immt

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jul 22, 2017
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What was the cost for the baguettes? Was that included in the ~$3k? I ask because Tapered baguettes can be very expensive...especially if you need custom sizes .

The baguettes are included in that price
 

rockysalamander

Ideal_Rock
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May 20, 2016
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I agree that the total price is a bit high, but there is some legitimate costs in finding and then setting the baguettes. I agree DK may be able to make it for less, but I'd guess more than $1500 given that he'd have to source and set the baguettes. Whomever you go with, have them work with standard sized tapered baguettes and fit the design around them. That may help with the cost.

At the risk of being pedantic on shape terminology....I also wanted to note that to fill that space (the triangle/V), you would need a pair of trapezoids + a pair of triangles (if you want to keep the point). You could also use a step-cut tapered bullet or Pseudo-shield (rounded shield) or kites. Not sure if this will help or hurt with price. But, my point is that the diamonds for the shoulders could easily run over $1k as you are talking fancy shaped stones. So, I would makes sure to get quotes that separate out the stones from the setting and be sure you know what shapes (and quality) they are looking at to fill the V.

Good description. https://www.leonmege.com/side-stones

Tapered Baguettes taper on their long side, tapered bullets are basically a tapered baguette that has a point. Traps are tapered on their short side.

upload_2017-7-23_13-23-49.png
 

Niel

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Yes I will correct my previous post I didn't realize you were using baguettes. Also, I'm not 100% sure I understand how you'll be altering this design. I don't know where you're putting baguettes.

So I can't speak to the exact price at this point
 

immt

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jul 22, 2017
Messages
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Yes I will correct my previous post I didn't realize you were using baguettes. Also, I'm not 100% sure I understand how you'll be altering this design. I don't know where you're putting baguettes.

So I can't speak to the exact price at this point

Sorry, I'm not the best at explaining these things as I'm not very familiar with the lingo. Do you see where it looks like there is a "V" on either side of the stone? I was going to have the jeweler put baguettes on either side into the V's.
 

Niel

Super_Ideal_Rock
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So it's a split shank with baguettes and then melee still on the inside?
 

rockysalamander

Ideal_Rock
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May 20, 2016
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5,105
Or...none of the below..???

A
cdb622519dbd4da99dc794ee0d0e4680--vintage-engagement-rings-diamond-engagement-rings.jpg

B

Round-Ring-2.59-ct-0.46-BG-0.46-RD-18.jpg

C
anna-ring-pink-accent.jpg

D
images
 

Rockdiamond

Ideal_Rock
Trade
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Jan 7, 2009
Messages
9,725
I'm buying a car- the dealer is asking $50,000- is it too much?
I think a statement like " the jeweler's markup is too high" is overlooking many crucial factors, while assigning a negative motive to the seller.
It's possible the price is too high based on what the seller might provide- but also possible that the seller offering this price is not overcharging.
immt- the problem consumers face is that of course, they don't want to get ripped off- but the range of prices is massive.
If one chooses by the dollar amount charged, results can be.....horrible.
The best setters are extremely expensive.
 

Wmiod

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 28, 2015
Messages
58
I just had my diamond reset with David Klass and he lives up the hype and more. And he will give you a very, very competitive price. Call him!
 

immt

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jul 22, 2017
Messages
7
Almost exactly like A, except 14k yellow gold, less baguettes on the side, and six white gold prongs instead of four. (Also, the stone is round).

Or...none of the below..???

A
cdb622519dbd4da99dc794ee0d0e4680--vintage-engagement-rings-diamond-engagement-rings.jpg

B

Round-Ring-2.59-ct-0.46-BG-0.46-RD-18.jpg

C
anna-ring-pink-accent.jpg

D
images
Bery
 

rockysalamander

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 20, 2016
Messages
5,105
It never hurts to get another quote from David Klass (and I also like Mytal Hannah). Maybe you will be surprised. But, that ring from Wheat is about $3900 for the setting alone.

One think that strikes me is that you'll have to work carefully with a jeweler to determine how to blend the very soft, round, curvy inspiration with structured/hard edges required to support the baguettes. You'll have to resolve how the top of the baguette column will blend to the cross-over on the side of the ring. You inspiration ring has no stones, so the metal can bend very easily to make the flowing design. Introducing baguettes will increase the width of each column and the curvature will be severely limited until the top of the baguette run. This ring bears some similarity to your goal. You can see that even with rounds that are graduated, the face of the X has to be flattened and the edges lose their soft edges. You might have more success with rounds on the split part of the shank and a trap at the bottom where the two columns rejoin the shank.

ENR8207_Angle.jpg


Something like these would give enough room for the baguettes and the edges could be rounded and then the trellis/X is free to be more curvy.

perspective-43-600x600.jpg

RC-scat-pix300.jpg


upload_2017-7-27_6-29-8.png
 

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