New CBI DBTY/Station Necklace project. Could use some design help.

[AV_]

How long will the necklace be?

(will catch up)

 

[SandyinAnaheim]

I'm thinking 17- 18", with an extender for flexibility. I'd have to see how it sits and where the central stone lies to determine the final length.

 

[SandyinAnaheim]

I want a picture/video of all those CBIs lined up. Can you imagine the fireworks show of this finished piece?!

@KristinTech, as requested, I received the videos of both the J 1.09 and the 1.09 flanked by 5 of the 6 smaller stones today. I have one of them here already.

In these hugely magnified videos I can see the feather and the wisp in the 1.09, but they don't bother me. Something had to give to be able to afford some size, and clarity was it for THIS project, especially in light of how clean this SI2 is. I'll know better when I see it if it's something I can even see with the naked eye, but considering it's going in a pendant, I think it's a non-factor. This is a super-clean SI2 in my opinion, in comparison to other SI2s I've seen in my searches. Wink told me that only 1 out of 100 potential SI2 crystals can pass CBI's tests to be acceptable for potential purchase. I'm even more excited now to see them all together!!

CBI J 1.09 SI2: http://handshake2.jivesystems.com/videos/txh4uwmdtm?tag=93565

CBI Suite: http://handshake2.jivesystems.com/videos/dp74bclhrg?tag=93565

By the way, I misremembered the date of the AGS report. I believe I previously said December, but it is November 30, 2018.

 

[rockysalamander]

https://www.langantiques.com/university/File:Collet_Set.jpg

https://www.langantiques.com/university/File:Collet-Scalloped.jpg

 

[SandyinAnaheim]

https://www.langantiques.com/university/File:Collet_Set.jpg

https://www.langantiques.com/university/File:Collet-Scalloped.jpg

Hi Rocky, I was hoping you would chime in! Both of those links take me to a 404 error, page not found....interestingly, I was just there last night hunting around, which is where I found the image of that last big pendant I posted.

 

[rockysalamander]

Hi Rocky, I was hoping you would chime in! Both of those links take me to a 404 error, page not found....interestingly, I was just there last night hunting around, which is where I found the image of that last big pendant I posted.

Have you seen this site? http://colletnecklaces.blogspot.com/2013/12/welcome.html

RE; Pics
Sorry, I was posting quickly while my sick kiddo was napping. So, you mentioned the idea of prong in bezel and I always love these two examples. These are much larger stones than yours, but I love the detail added in the prongs. Also, the way they are connected, but 2 90 degree off loops makes this very hard to flip. You'll have a chain, but though I'd point this out.






The other way to reduce flipping is to use two chains per link


But, if you like the buttercup (aka collett), go for it. Just know that the prongs can be scratching when flipped against your skin. But, what makes this very stable is that the link between the stations is short and firm. Adding a chain will allow flipping.


With a chain, this style is better than some in that the back against your skin is flat and wider. You'll have larger prongs than this example, as these are flat backed, and rounds are not.

One other idea is to make each side of the piece interesting. So, you have diamonds on one side and put an engraving or design on the flat-back side.

 

[AV_]

The last two exampels show why I had asked what length the necklace will be: on shorter ones, it works to link the stones offset (a line through the two attachment points os not the diameter of the stone - but higher-up so gravity twarts twist)... On longer chains this doesn't work.

IHMO necklaces are engineering projects (always interesting - once I have looked for long enough so that the obvious does not distract from - structure ,)

IHMO, the placement of diamond stations & the type of chain will help even on a longer chain, but I'd still care to make undersides worth exposing & live with the flip-flop.

Then...

French cut diamonds look at last as beautiful bottom-up !

thinking out loud

 

[AV_]

ctd.

A chain necklace: WWW

- there are a few listed at SJP, all intended to flip-flop IHMO.

The list includes the most beautiful thing in the world! (joking -at the end of the day)

 

[SandyinAnaheim]

Have you seen this site? http://colletnecklaces.blogspot.com/2013/12/welcome.html

No I hadn't, but it is interesting, thank you.

RE; Pics Sorry, I was posting quickly while my sick kiddo was napping. So, you mentioned the idea of prong in bezel and I always love these two examples. These are much larger stones than yours, but I love the detail added in the prongs. Also, the way they are connected, but 2 90 degree off loops makes this very hard to flip. You'll have a chain, but though I'd point this out.

I'm sorry to hear your kid is sick, and thank you for taking the time to look all this up and post for me. The off loops look like an interesting possible solution to flipping. So if the chain attaches to the setting with an off loop, and the decorative "basket" is on the flatter side, do you think that would help reduce flipping?

The other way to reduce flipping is to use two chains per link.

I had actually considered this, but if I am using a heftier type chain, chances are the chains would overwhelm the smaller stones. I would prefer a bolder sturdy chain than one or two thin delicate ones, like @ccuheartnurse recommended.

But, if you like the buttercup (aka collett), go for it. Just know that the prongs can be scratching when flipped against your skin. But, what makes this very stable is that the link between the stations is short and firm. Adding a chain will allow flipping.


With a chain, this style is better than some in that the back against your skin is flat and wider. You'll have larger prongs than this example, as these are flat backed, and rounds are not.

One other idea is to make each side of the piece interesting. So, you have diamonds on one side and put an engraving or design on the flat-back side.

The Lang glossary says that collett settings are bezels, not buttercups? I like small claws, as opposed to prongs, so I would hope they would be less scratchy. I wish I could afford to have that many stones on a necklace to make it stable!! And yes, having a decorative underside is a must.

To date, the most beautiful setting I've seen is the CvB Cora, because in addition to buttercups, I LOVE scrolly details and crown type motifs. But at her prices, the setting would cost way more than the diamonds, so I have to balance ultimate desires with cost efficiency.

Cora, the ultimate setting (but without the additional stones):


Here are settings that really appeal to me. I thank everyone in advance for helping me refine my ideas and providing setting suggestions. I don't have anyone IRL to discuss this stuff with.

 

[rockysalamander]

We got the flu from a family visit. The vaccine helps reduce the severity, but it still is a few days of misery (and he's a boy who tends toward the dramatic!). Makes me really aware of how quickly the flu can spread...1 infected person+ 3 days of shared space = 8 people down already.

Love that last one from the bottom...lavender spinel? That would add some nice size and a shape to the rounds. You'll have to consider the side view and access for cleaning. Necklaces get really yucky (that a precise term!).

 

[SandyinAnaheim]

Awww, I'm so sorry to hear that! I'm flying this week and am TERRIFIED of getting sick if someone on the plane is ill with all that re-circulated air....I hope everyone is better soon!

I have no idea what that stone is, I was focused on the setting and I've saved these images over the course of months. I'm sorry!

 

[SandyinAnaheim]

The last two exampels show why I had asked what length the necklace will be: on shorter ones, it works to link the stones offset (a line through the two attachment points os not the diameter of the stone - but higher-up so gravity twarts twist)... On longer chains this doesn't work.

IHMO necklaces are engineering projects (always interesting - once I have looked for long enough so that the obvious does not distract from - structure ,)

IHMO, the placement of diamond stations & the type of chain will help even on a longer chain, but I'd still care to make undersides worth exposing & live with the flip-flop.

I hadn't thought of a necklace being an engineering challenge, but you're absolutely correct. I would guess that a heavier chain, that presumably has less movement than a thin chain, will help reduce flipping, in addition to having a flattish, less than flimsy setting. I am actually not opposed for the settings to be dropping from the necklace rather than being linked into the necklace. I'm pretty sure that would eliminate flipping for the most part. I like that look at this point. This concept is still very much in flux so I'll be as surprised as everyone else what it will end up being.

Here is an example, but not on this type of chain.



And a drop a little longer than this could work?

 

[AV_]

No objection whatsoever with either of these (last two) ... - tried & true & to dream about!

I am noticing the settings of the Lang pieece - beautifully overdone classical fabrication

 

[ccuheartnurse]

I had a 3 stone J set in 14K bezels & never found a colour discrepancy especially that the stones were set for the neck. My last one is 18K white gold. I kick myself I didn't spend the $2-300 extra for platinum. All in all, I've had 6-7 J's & all were set in white gold/ platinum. My previous J was set in a halo of F-G & there was a very tiny colour discrepancy. I never told my friends & they all said it looked like one colour...sparkle. LOL So if your stones are going to be single set & you want white metals, go for it. The stones will look great.

As for a style, I'm not sure what I would say. I love the CVB setting but I think that will get pricey. I like 2 of the ones Rocky posted, the blue sapphire & the red ruby right under it. Perhaps a thin open slit in the middle. But overall, I like the simpler one you posted, the last one with the dangles. I love that & I don't think you'll get much flipping at all.

 

[SandyinAnaheim]

Thank you @ccuheartnurse for your perspective! I had originally thought of platinum, but was a little skeert that it would enhance any body tint they might have. In the last decade I've bought almost exclusively white gold and the only platinum piece I have is my ER/WB. There's really just something so opulent of that rich deep yellow gold that strikes a cord in me...maybe even in a brushed finish with a glinty chain, like a contrast of textures. But if you say white metals is the way to go and won't show tint in Js, I could def be talked into platinum. What's a few hundred more dollars after the amount I dropped on stones??

I do like the danglies as well, but I've been brainstorming lately and was wondering, or if anyone had seen, a setting that might have like a little rectangular slot underneath it that the chain could slide through, and then made to stay stationary, as if it was soldered on or made immobile in some other way. Imagine how a decorative button has a little ring underneath it that you can sew onto a fabric? In this way, it won't dangle, slide up and down, and won't flip. I have to hunt around some more to see if I find something like that.

BTW, I realized in my first post that I stated by grandfather's bracelet was 35 oz, I don't know what I did there because it is NOT 35 ozs!! It's 3.5ozs...

 

[Karl_K]

1. I am looking at setting in yellow or rose gold. I own no rose gold ATM. The yellow gold I own is incredibly deep-colored. My most major piece is a 35 oz 18k YG multi-strand rope bracelet my grandfather made for my mother in the late 50s in Cuba. I have never seen gold of this color, until I found Indian gold in NJ. I have several pieces of 22k Indian jewelry that is just so rich and lush in its color, there's really nothing like it. That's what I'm aiming for in both the chain and setting. I have zero aversion to mixing metals, so that is not a concern.

Its called 18k dark yellow gold alloy. I dont know of a source for a chain made from it but grain is available for casting:
394 here: https://www.unitedpmr.com/18k_22k_yellow_gold_casting_alloys.php

 

[Karl_K]

diamond cut cable chain

Could be doable for a little added flash.
I like it also.
Im off to bed more in AM,,,,,,,,

 

[SandyinAnaheim]

Thanks so much @Karl_K !

 

[Karl_K]

Wear what makes you happy, I think your over thinking what other people will think about it.

 

[Karl_K]

Being flat where it rests against you will help a lot in preventing flipping.

 

[SandyinAnaheim]

Wear what makes you happy, I think your over thinking what other people will think about it.

Yes, I tend to overrthink things, especially when large sums of money are involved...

 

[tyty333]

Yes, I tend to overrthink things, especially when large sums of money are involved...

Hard not to! I have no good ideas but I'm following this thread to see what you end up with!

 

[blueMA]

Honestly, I saw this thread a while back but I'm wasn't sure how to contribute to your necklace design idea. You've got 7 stones (1 large), and I'd personally go for a lariat style (something akin to the below, but with the two dangling bottom stones instead) but necklace preference can be very different person by person (especially seeing your other posted photos), especially when you want this to be an every day necklace. Necklaces are often victims of falling out of trend so I'd encourage you going for a classic design as much as possible, especially given how much $$$ involved with your gorgeous stones.
When I'm blocked of an idea, I just google images or browse my favorite brand catalog until something catches my eyes...
Once you have a direction on what your intended vision is, I think you'll get much more traction on this thread than offering a blank canvas to people.

 

[SandyinAnaheim]

@blueMA I agree. The problem is I know what I like, and what I don't like, but I have zero creativity. There are so many people here that have envisioned and created masterpieces, that I thought I could reach out and get some ideas of settings. I've been looking at images for months and have a file of about 120 pictures, but they're almost all like what I posted already. This project has been brewing for a year.

To be honest, I'm not a trend follower, and don't have any jewelry I don't wear because it might be passe. I wear what I like, in style or not. And yes, I think the look I'm going for is classic, but with a Sandy twist.

From what I understand, having a larger center stone should help keep the necklace centered and not creeping around my neck? I could be mistaken.

 

[MaisOuiMadame]

Somewhat echoing @blueMA

I also couldn't really put my finger on what you'd like to create. I think a good old pinterest board would be the best starting point for you. I'd just randomly pin EVERYTHING that speaks to you. Instead of files you have something like a mood board - everything at a glance. After a while you might notice some common ground and see the bigger style you want. Then you can look at the details. If I'd personally have to design such a piece with seven stones it'd be more in the direction of this example you posted

With a very classic buttercup like on the brooch @Wewechew posted or maybe the setting fromfull rivière of collets from @rockysalamander s post.
The chain is key to tie this all together. To make it a coherent design I'd go for a forçat chain

A true antique one is for sale on LT at.thought of your project when I saw it

https://loupetroop.com/listings/nec...torian-48-link-chain-with-dog-clasp-14k;26496


IMHO, this will be gorgeous piece, but in order to be coherent and classic, I'd personally avoid mixing details too much and try to match details from roughly the same periods. Have fun!!

 

[Karl_K]

If it was me I would put a big honking colored gemstone in the middle and flank it by diamonds.
Something from Richard Homer.... Wink is a dealer for his stones....
http://www.concavegems.com/Query1.cfm
Just a small part of his avaiable stones used to be on the website, I dont know about these days....

or some 4 peaks amethyst.

 

[MaisOuiMadame]

Adding: inspiredd by this style from Rocky

You could also hang segments of chain between the stones in a half-moon shape. I think that this is utterly charming, but for me personally it would make the necklace less everyday wearable and much more formal. Maybe there's a sly way to get the matching chains and have a hook technique to attach those for dressier events? I love how antique pieces are convertible and so versatile (brooch to pendant to hair ornament, necklace to tiara.. .) I have earring findings with a hook that I can snap two bespoke earrings into and the system is very safe.

 

[MaisOuiMadame]

Sorry for the huuuge pic. I'm on my phone

 

[MaisOuiMadame]

If it was me I would put a big honking colored gemstone in the middle and flank it by diamonds.
Something from Richard Homer.... Wink is a dealer for his stones....
http://www.concavegems.com/Query1.cfm
Just a small part of his avaiable stones used to be on the website, I dont know about these days....

or some 4 peaks amethyst.

Ohhh yess, but as a détachable drop from the biggest diamond - you can easily hide the hook behind the setting... Swooon
Positively ROYAL.

 

[SandyinAnaheim]

Interesting indeed! Just gave me a bunch of new things to think about. Making it convertible is brilliant. I like that chain @kipari, very unique. Thank you for remembering me. I'd love to know it's width. Are chains like this one rare? I could do more than one project with that length.

As for every day vs. formal, I'd never wear it if I saved it for formal occasions.

I'm on the runway right now and will be flying for the rest of the day, but I'll reach out later to know more about the chain. Thanks everyone for the flow of ideas.