Setting appropriate for stone?

[LLJsmom]

Hi PSers,

I still haven't pulled the trigger on a new setting because I am just afraid to commit. Here is my dilemma. When I try on OECs set in more ornate settings, settings, they seem to "fit" the OECs. I will post an example of one later. It is very comfortable to the eye. But the con is that I feel like not allowing maximum exposure of the stone makes it look darker than when it is in a simpler four prong setting. I've compared so many next to my K OEC. And the ones, even though they are GIA Js, look darker than my K. (I'll post those pics too.) But when I am wearing a simple four prong (which is my preference), it just doesn't seem to be "enough" if you know what I mean. Although, a simple four prong is what I prefer, what I always lean toward.

My options are to:
1. Come up with a setting that is ornate enough for my OEC so that it looks at home, but still let in enough light so that it looks as bright as it is in the current setting. I would also feel great peace of mind with a setting with more "stuff" around the center stone so I can protect the girdle a bit. Finding this setting is hard. I feel like I've been looking forever.
2. Go with a four prong which is what I usually prefer just aesthetically, but then feel like it's just not "done" or "enough" and that my oec deserves more.
3. Go with a more ornate setting and possibly get sick of it and maybe compromise by losing some brightness.

If you don't mind giving me a little more detail in your response, I would appreciate it.
1. What do you think I should do? Some of you who kinda know me can help me here.
2. What would you do?

Below, I'll post some pics of settings that I found beautiful, and some comparison shots of more ornate settings and mine.

 

[LLJsmom]

View media item 122146This was a 3.22 J, beautifully cut. It looked darker than my K. I'm sure it wasn't.

 

[LLJsmom]

This is an L, but it looked significantly darker than my K, which I don't think it was. I think it's the setting.

 

[marksbcss]

LLJ,

This is an L, but it looked significantly darker than my K, which I don't think it was. I think it's the setting.

Any chance this picture was taken in sunlight or spotlighting? There is a really strong flash at 9:45 off the 4 prong diamond. Some PSers have noticed diamonds darkening in sunlight (The Mother of All Spotlights), and if you take a look at Good Old Gold's videos of diamonds under spotlight (vs ambient room light), I think you'll notice similar darkening:

Still due to relative brightness between the diamond, the surroundings, and the camera lens or eye's iris closing (stopping down).

Mark

 

[Austina]

It sounds as though you're trying to talk yourself in to something you don't want. If you prefer a simple setting, go with that, you're the one who'll be wearing the ring, and you won't be happy with something more ornate, even if you think that's what you or your stone 'should' have.

I spent a month looking at round diamonds and all kinds of halos, pave bands etc., but didn't pull the trigger, then I realised, I really didnt want a round! I was getting swept along with what was the 'norm', but it just wasn't me

I've ordered something completely different, which was, in fact, what I'd looked at first.

What I'm trying to say is, go with your heart, and put the sensible hat back on the shelf!

 

[foxinsox]

Could you put your lovely OEC in a somewhat elaborate 4 prong settings with bling on the basket and shank like the CVB Acacia, Sienna, Chloe or LAD's Fina or Elisabeth? There's also Erika Winter's Minna and Helena. These ones, Lena, Laurel, have a clean simple top down view but lovely details on the basket.
If you're struggling between the settings you think look "right" for your OEC but you prefer a simple 4 prong, can you work out what you prefer in a simple 4 prong and what a more elaborate setting has that "matches" the OEC better and see if you could work out a combination that ticks both boxes? Like, is it the top down view that you like or the clean profile of a 4 prong or the simple shank.. and in the elaborate settings is it the structural surrounds or engraved/milgrain/sparkle that complement your OEC's faceting?

 

[MarionC]

Hi LLjs : )
kind of an early morning ramble...
I've learned the hard way that I get tired of ornate settings rather quickly and end up not wearing those rings. I think classic OEC settings with all the little diamonds are pretty but the OEC gets kind of lost in the sparkle and becomes "part of something" instead of being the star.
I agree that a simple plain setting isn't quite enough. In my case, with Joy, I am thinking about EW or CVB with brushed gold or rose gold and perhaps some nod to the era of the OEC, like carving or a little beading or milgrain or some minor diamond accent. I am currently in love with rings that have a yellow or rose bezel [or prongs] with a platinum body.
With my asscher reset I realized after it was done that the bezel alone made the stone pop and I now wish I had done a simple bezel setting instead of going with something more complex.
But that's just me. It will be fun to see what you come up with!

 

[Tophat1]

I was in the same place when I was shopping and considering an AVR. While I ultimately settled on a MRB, I felt I could traditionalize the AVR by picking a setting with double claw prongs and a fancy basket. That dresses it up a bit but still keeps the stone front and center

 

[tyty333]

I didnt read all the post so not sure if this has been suggested but Erika Winters has some lovely
settings that are most appropriate for OECs which I'm sure she can do in a 4 prong setting.

http://erikawinters.com/Engagement-Rings-Laurel-Cathedral-Solitaire.html#.WPjHsvnysdU
http://erikawinters.com/Engagement-Rings-Helena-Split-Shank-Solitaire.html#.WPjICvnysdU
http://erikawinters.com/Engagement-Rings-Minna-French-Cut-Solitaire.html#.WPjIK_nysdU
http://erikawinters.com/Engagement-Rings-Lena-Solitaire.html#.WPjIRPnysdU

 

[diamondseeker2006]

If anyone can empathize, it's me. In May, I will have had my AVR for 4 years set in my old temp solitaire setting!!! My reasons for not resetting are very similar, although I am not concerned about the color darkening part. I think you can help that issue that by doing prong set rather than bezel set, though.

I 100% agree that these stones are not done justice in a plain solitaire. It's like a very beautiful woman with no makeup and dressed in a sack! She's still beautiful, but with her makeup and gorgeous clothing, she looks her very best.

I am afraid of a halo because I think I will feel self conscious about the size. I think something like the CVB Elsa is possible for me, because it adds some visual interest the way the prongs add some scallops looking down at the stone. I absolutely know I don't want a setting that is too ornate. If your stone has a very thin girdle and you still want a solitaire, I'd very strongly suggest an 8 prong antique style solitaire such as CVB's Olivia. All I know is that my antique asscher is in a complimentary antique setting, and I feel it looks complete. I feel like my AVR is naked and I have not done it justice in the setting yet.

 

[dazzlerazzle]

Not sure if it will appeal to you, but I am going with something similar to LM's Cosmo ring for my AVR. I want 4-prong with no basket for the light, but I want the glittery ornateness of the pave with milgraining.

 

[distracts]

Is it possible you can get something cpomplicated enough to suit you with an elaborate but delicate basket and cathedral shoulders? There's a lot of room between "four-prong solitaire" and "completely surrounds the center diamond," and I think looking in that room rather than at the extremes is probably the way to go. The Erika Winters split shank linked above, for instance, or some of these other ideas:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/257539052/the-cvb-acacia-solitaire-vintage?ref=shop_home_active_40
https://www.etsy.com/listing/262253185/the-cvb-id-double-claw-prong-sienna?ref=shop_home_active_53

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Not sure if it will appeal to you, but I am going with something similar to LM's Cosmo ring for my AVR. I want 4-prong with no basket for the light, but I want the glittery ornateness of the pave with milgraining.

Dazzle, light coming in on the sides of an AVR doesn't matter, because they are cut for light return from the top. So they are excellent to set in halos or bezels without losing light return. Antique OECs were first cut when candlelight was around, and they do take in light from the sides. So having having closed in galleries is not the greatest idea for those. The Cosmo is beautiful, but it definitely has a scalloped basket. So do you mean you are somehow eliminating the scalloped basket bars?

 

[yssie]

It's like a very beautiful woman with no makeup and dressed in a sack! She's still beautiful, but with her makeup and gorgeous clothing, she looks her very best.

I love this analogy This is, in a nutshell, why I have never been happy with simple, standard settings. Like you I'm wary of baskets that enclose the pavilion - both because I do think all diamonds benefit from more light at more angles (though as DS said the gains are far greater with non-precision-cut stones!) and because I just hate the idea of not being able to thoroughly clean the stone And, like you, I also prefer settings with more "stuff" around the center to protect the girdle...

I had my 4ct RB in a 6prong temp for nearly a year. The stone is perfect but the setting wasn't enough for it; I just got my Margot from EW today and what a difference a change of housing makes!!
Some thoughts:
1. I'd require that the interior of the basket of whatever setting you do choose be finished to a high-polish, and rhodium-plated if you choose a non-white metal. This way those surfaces - which will never scratch or matte - will be mirrors to redirect whatever light hits them back into the pavilion of the stone.
2. I'm not one for bezels, personally, so an 8prong setting is my compromise in terms of girdle protection. With eight prongs evenly spaced around the stone, unless the stone is huge or the prongs are tiny any two adjacent prongs "stick out" far enough that if you drew a straight line joining them, the parallel tangent to the stone arc between them wouldn't pass that line. Like... balance the ring on any two prongs on the table, and the girdle of the stone won't actually touch the table. It's certainly not as protective as a bezel but it gives me more peace of mind than 4 prong settings that expose a lot more of the girdle.
3. N/S/E/W prongs are nice - for me at least those do seem to be the axes most prone to getting whacked

I am confident a designer like Erika or Caysie could recommend a 4prong setting with a little flair that suits your aesthetic and complements your stone beautifully! I really don't like the thought of you choosing a protective, ornate setting that ticks more checkboxes on the pamphlet but that you don't love looking at every day - goodness knows your gorgeous stone deserves makeup and a beautiful dress that demands adoration

 

[dazzlerazzle]

Dazzle, light coming in on the sides of an AVR doesn't matter, because they are cut for light return from the top. So they are excellent to set in halos or bezels without losing light return. Antique OECs were first cut when candlelight was around, and they do take in light from the sides. So having having closed in galleries is not the greatest idea for those. The Cosmo is beautiful, but it definitely has a scalloped basket. So do you mean you are somehow eliminating the scalloped basket bars?

Thanks for the clarification - I swear, as much as I feel like I've learned about diamonds (and AVR's in particular), I keep finding blind spots!

I didn't realize that the setting won't affect the light return in an AVR - that's good to know, since I still have about a month before I have to 100% commit.

By "no basket," I meant no ornate basket. I don't think of the simple prongs+bars as a basket, though it is, technically.

I just saw a pave masterpiece on the JBG instagram, thinking about reaching out to her for a quote as well. Does she have a new bench that does pave well?

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Thanks for the clarification - I swear, as much as I feel like I've learned about diamonds (and AVR's in particular), I keep finding blind spots!

I didn't realize that the setting won't affect the light return in an AVR - that's good to know, since I still have about a month before I have to 100% commit.

By "no basket," I meant no ornate basket. I don't think of the simple prongs+bars as a basket, though it is, technically.

I just saw a pave masterpiece on the JBG instagram, thinking about reaching out to her for a quote as well. Does she have a new bench that does pave well?

Send me the link by email so we can talk about settings without threadjacking this one! But if it's the ring posted today, that was a consignment ring which was set by Victor Canera!

 

[diamondseeker2006]

I love this analogy This is, in a nutshell, why I have never been happy with simple, standard settings. Like you I'm wary of baskets that enclose the pavilion - both because I do think all diamonds benefit from more light at more angles (though as DS said the gains are far greater with non-precision-cut stones!) and because I just hate the idea of not being able to thoroughly clean the stone And, like you, I also prefer settings with more "stuff" around the center to protect the girdle...

I had my 4ct RB in a 6prong temp for nearly a year. The stone is perfect but the setting wasn't enough for it; I just got my Margot from EW today and what a difference a change of housing makes!!
Some thoughts:
1. I'd require that the interior of the basket of whatever setting you do choose be finished to a high-polish, and rhodium-plated if you choose a non-white metal. This way those surfaces - which will never scratch or matte - will be mirrors to redirect whatever light hits them back into the pavilion of the stone.
2. I'm not one for bezels, personally, so an 8prong setting is my compromise in terms of girdle protection. With eight prongs evenly spaced around the stone, unless the stone is huge or the prongs are tiny any two adjacent prongs "stick out" far enough that if you drew a straight line joining them, the parallel tangent to the stone arc between them wouldn't pass that line. Like... balance the ring on any two prongs on the table, and the girdle of the stone won't actually touch the table. It's certainly not as protective as a bezel but it gives me more peace of mind than 4 prong settings that expose a lot more of the girdle.
3. N/S/E/W prongs are nice - for me at least those do seem to be the axes most prone to getting whacked

I am confident a designer like Erika or Caysie could recommend a 4prong setting with a little flair that suits your aesthetic and complements your stone beautifully! I really don't like the thought of you choosing a protective, ornate setting that ticks more checkboxes on the pamphlet but that you don't love looking at every day - goodness knows your gorgeous stone deserves makeup and a beautiful dress that demands adoration

Yssie!!! Super happy to see you and to hear you reset your stone!!! The Margot is my favorite of EW's settings! I can't wait to see it, so I HOPE you are posting a thread in Show Me the Bling!

I agree that NESW need protection, so 6 pr 8 prongs are really going to be desirable for girdle protection, especially with larger stones. And I am with you 100% on being able to reach the pavilion to clean it. I don't think most people realize how important that is!

 

[yssie]

I haven't been here in way too long - I've missed everyone!! I most definitely will!

 

[m-2-b]

I haven't been here in way too long - I've missed everyone!! I most definitely will!

I saw your new ring on EW's IG--LOVE!!!

Sorry for the threadjack, LLJ!

 

[MissGotRocks]

LLJsmom since you loved your Victor Canera ring so much for your MRB, how about calling him and discussing a setting for this stone? Since he sells the antique cut stones as well, maybe he would have some design ideas for you based on your preferences for a setting. He definitely does beautiful work and he might be able to come up with something for your new stone.

 

[MissGotRocks]

I haven't been here in way too long - I've missed everyone!! I most definitely will!

We have missed you tons too Yssie! Can't wait to see your new ring!

 

[Kasey3]

I think that the EW Margot is THE most perfect setting for an OEC, I saw it at Greenwich st jewelers in NYC with some Singlestone settings that were beautiful as well, but the thing that made me flip for the EW setting was that it was a modern setting with the perfect amount of antique flair and etails-the perfect balance IMO.

Yssie-PLEASE post pics!!!

 

[LLJsmom]

Hi Everyone, thank you for your thoughtful replies. You have each helped me admit and confirm some thoughts and/or feelings I have been having.

@marksbcss, thanks for your comment. The stone on the left is my K, which I was comparing with the L. Both were under the same light. The L looked dark to me. In sunlight it is fine. I have tons of pictures of it under sunlight. It is one of the mostly lively and beautiful stones I've seen.

@Austina, yes, I agree. The heart wants what it wants. My heart is just undecided up to this point. I somehow KNOW that if I got a simple solitaire I would not be satisfied in the end.

@foxinsox, I have definitely looked at CVB and Erika Winters. There are definitely aspects of many of their rings that I like. I haven't found one that checks off enough boxes. The Sienna comes in close. There are some details in the basket that I don't like, and in the shoulders, but the general idea is pleasing.

@Jimmianne, yes, that is what I mean. Not quite "enough". Brushed yellow or rose gold is so beautiful. I will need to find the perfect balance between simple and ornate that I will love in the long run.

@Tophat1, yes, I love a double claw. When I say four prong, I am assuming double prong. And my VC setting had a basket that was more dressed up, which was really appropriate for my MRB. I will definitely have something in the basket.

@tyty333, yes, Erika Winters has beautiful settings. I have seen some, but not one that feels quite right to me yet.

@diamondseeker2006, I know you know. I love your analogy. I thought about it throughout the day. It's like a very beautiful woman with no makeup and dressed in a sack! She's still beautiful, but with her makeup and gorgeous clothing, she looks her very best. That is how I have made peace with my decision NOT to go with a super simple solitaire. I love the basket of the Elsa too. The only issue I have with it is the top down view gives the diamond a hexagonal shape. I prefer a round or a cushion. Actually a cushion is the direction I am leaning. I agree. Your asscher is perfect, at home, in just the right setting. Your asscher is done as far as I can see. I hope you will keep us updated.

@dazzlerazzle, LM's cosmo is quite stunning. Your stone would look beautiful in it. My old setting with VC was somewhat similar, without only one layer of melee in the basket. I don't think I will do this style with an old euro. I would with an MRB.

@distracts, that is exactly what I am trying to do, trying to find the perfect in-between. It's hard. The acacia is very beautiful too.

@yssie, so that is your baby on IG. It does look so stunning. Congratulations on taking the plunge! I can't wait to see more pics. You make such excellent points. I will make sure to have the jeweler do exactly as you say. I agree. I have firmly decided against a bezel for the same reason, as beautiful as they look on other people.

1. I'd require that the interior of the basket of whatever setting you do choose be finished to a high-polish, and rhodium-plated if you choose a non-white metal. This way those surfaces - which will never scratch or matte - will be mirrors to redirect whatever light hits them back into the pavilion of the stone.

I would consider an 8 prong, but it would have to be just right.

@m-2-b, please threadjack away, especially if its about Yssie's new margot.

@Kasey3, yes, the Margot is beautiful. A perfect combo of modern and antique styles. Yssie's stone looks amazing in it.

@MissGotRocks, seriously, you are a mind reader. You'll see why soon. I promise I will get there.

So after reading everyone's comments, I came to some conclusions that were probably obvious to everyone but me.
1. A plain simple four prong, even with double claws, will not do. I like it aesthetically, but I will ultimately be unsatisfied. I have to accept I am not going with the simple setting, even though it is the easy way out.
2. I want girdle protection, and I think I know the form that will come in. Stay tuned for pics.
3. I love a cushion silhouette, and I always have. This is my chance to make it happen. And in the back of my mind, I think that is another reason why I just could not commit to a round setting yet. I have to give this a try.

So I had in my mind this setting that I thought would work, and I decided I had to see it IRL to see if I could love it. I have tried it on before but I passed it right by because an MRB was in it, and it just didn't look right. I took myself to Eric Trabert, who carries...Singlestone, of course. (and Erika Winters - Yssie, I tried on the Margot today! It was beautiful.) I will post pics in a following post.

 

[LLJsmom]

I really like this setting and it feels very comfortable on my finger. I did not feel that the setting was making the diamond dark at all. Btw, the center stone is a 2.0 Uvvs2.

 

[LLJsmom]

However, there are aspects of the setting I would like to tweak and customize. I have an idea of how the metal halo should be, but I haven't seen an example of it from any of the vendors yet. But it hits all the major points, a cushion outline, a more ornate basket, but not much to see from the top down. I actually really like the shoulders, and the little cuff. I like that the cuff has no diamonds. It's not a bezel. Rather the stone sits right on top. So in the end, I was just thinking on the drive home that I would contact Victor and try to come up with something that would suit me. See MGR? It's what you said... Now its all about timing. I don't know. It may be a while. I hope I don't change my mind again before I commit.

 

[MissGotRocks]

However, there are aspects of the setting I would like to tweak and customize. I have an idea of how the metal halo should be, but I haven't seen an example of it from any of the vendors yet. But it hits all the major points, a cushion outline, a more ornate basket, but not much to see from the top down. I actually really like the shoulders, and the little cuff. I like that the cuff has no diamonds. It's not a bezel. Rather the stone sits right on top. So in the end, I was just thinking on the drive home that I would contact Victor and try to come up with something that would suit me. See MGR? It's what you said... Now its all about timing. I don't know. It may be a while. I hope I don't change my mind again before I commit.

I think you are making great progress. You have figured out quite a bit thus far and I hope that Victor can help you tweak your thoughts into just the right setting for your beautiful stone! The cushion shape really does look gorgeous on your hand!

 

[missy]

LLJsmom, I LOVE this setting for your OEC! I think it is just gorgeous and I would even consider it for Bea I love it so much and this (as you are fully aware lol) is from a die hard solitaire girl. OMG your missyK would look KicK ass in this setting!
As an aside it reminds me of my grandmother's ER setting. Wish I had it to share pics with you to show you. It really does remind me of my grandma Bea's setting (minus the diamonds on the shoulder) and I wonder how accurate my (poor) memory is. I truly love this setting for your gorgeous OEC.

 

[PierreBear]

Hi LLJsmom! You are such an expert with providing guidance to all that I don't even know how to offer any thoughts to one of my ring heroes. I love the setting that you did pick out and it seems to be similar to Singlestone's work. I'm still very new to OEC and the antique setting world so I've never thought through the light return on a stone due to a setting. However, I wanted to share another alternative that I was fortunate to try on that might be in the same slightly dressed up way but still not too ornate to overshadow the stone type look. The setting is by Singlestone and I believe it's called the Arielle. I hope this helps in some way and for what it's worth, it was the first setting/stone that I tried on that took my breath away and steered me towards OECs so perhaps it wouldn't create that darkened look that you are trying to avoid. Good luck with your upcoming decision and can't wait to see what you pick out!

View media item 122152

 

[girlguineapig]

I 100% agree that these stones are not done justice in a plain solitaire. It's like a very beautiful woman with no makeup and dressed in a sack! She's still beautiful, but with her makeup and gorgeous clothing, she looks her very best.

Very interesting analogy diamondseeker2006! I've been ruminating on this. I'd like to think of myself as a pretty woman that mostly wears no makeup and is often found in rather simple clothing or even yoga/exercise clothes, so maybe my OEC in a solitaire matches me perfectly. Not that I'm necessarily saying I'll never reset...

 

[Bonfire]

That's a gorgeous ring LLJsmom! Really a stunner! Yellow gold is a bit of a departure for you. Are you prepared for your stone to reflect some of that color? But it should look gorgeous imo. Love that basket!!!!