Rarely do documents making their way through federal agencies cause chocolate lovers to totally melt down. Then came Appendix C.

Accompanying a 35-page petition signed by a diverse set of culinary groups -- juice producers, meat canners and the chocolate lobby -- the appendix charts proposed changes to food standard definitions set by the Food and Drug Administration, including this one: "use a vegetable fat in place of another vegetable fat named in the standard (e.g., cacao fat)."

Chocolate purists, of which there are apparently many, have undertaken a grassroots letter-writing campaign to the FDA to inform the agency that such a change to the standards is just not okay with them. More than 225 comments to the petition have been processed so far by the agency, and chocolate bloggers are pressing for more. In the annals of bureaucratic Washington battles, this is a sweet one.

"If this puts a smile on people's faces even though it's a serious matter, that's what chocolate is meant to do," said California chocolate maker and traditionalist Gary Guittard, whose Web site, http://DontMessWithOurChocolate.com, has led the counterassault.

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Guittard, whose family has been making chocolate since 1868, said some big chocolate manufacturers favor the proposed change in regulations because they want to keep prices down on key ingredients by using less expensive vegetable fat, which can contain trans fats, instead of cocoa butter. That scares him. Cybele May, a playwright, whale-watching enthusiast and Web editor in California, has been encouraging people to write the FDA with posts on her blog at http://candyblog.net. "Suddenly, we are worried that the chocolate bar isn't the same anymore and we don't know why," May said.
 
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"I think a lot of people don't realize that this would be optional," Malgieri said. "No one is going to force a high-class chocolate maker to add vegetable fat to chocolate." Asked if fine chocolate would just melt away, he said, "Absolutely not."