CLEANING DIAMONDS

"Got Diamond?
Hey.....Men Wear Diamonds Too!"

"Got Diamond?
Hey.....Men Wear Diamonds Too!"

www.DavidKeelingJewellery.com

www.DavidKeelingJewellery.com

No heat, TD, just a reality check.  There is no such thing as an invulnerable ring unless it's worn by a Hobbit.

Solid rings and settings with large diamonds are less vulnerable than thin shafts/prongs or delicate craftsmanship with melee and pave.  When it does happen, there are 3 primary reasons that diamonds, particularly small diamonds, may fall out.

1.  The diamond wasn't set properly.  Among top manufacturers this is uncommon, but is still a possibility.

2.  When drilling holes, burring, filing, etc. there is microscopic residue; metal filings, polishing rouge, etc.  When a tiny diamond is set there is a possibility for microscopic particles to exist between the diamonds and the setting.  As the ring is worn the residue may loosen up.  Sometimes if the ring is put in an ultrasonic cleaner (which many professionals do not recommend for melee) the residue is lost.  This frees up the extra space and the diamond might move, or fall out.  Fortunately, when this happens in a US cleaner, the diamond is often easily found.

3.  Wear and tear is an unpredictable part of life.  Some people are heavier on their rings than others.  As a ring gets knocked or bumped, metal may be worn away or become loose and a diamond may move in its setting.  If a person's rings are scuffed or you find them dented he/she may be a candidate for ‘knockabout’ counseling.   Depending on how rough someone is it may be preferable for them to have White Gold rather than Platinum (platinum is more malleable).  Clients who request very thin bands or thin prongs are often advised that the piece is delicate, but the designer cannot know how hard someone will be on the ring.  We will not make bands/prongs of a certain thinness for this reason.

When a diamond comes loose or falls out each case must be considered separately.  It may be the responsibility of the manufacturer, or it may due to something the wearer did.  There are telltale signs when it's the wearer's responsibility, such as scratch or scuff marks, a ring that is out of round or dings and dents.  However, if there is minimal wear and tear then something did not allow the stone to sit correctly and it is the manufacturer's responsibility.  To a large degree 'responsibility' is about how much the company that made the ring is willing to back it up.  For our part, if something happens due to residue or improper setting we restore it.  If it was the responsibility of the wearer we may choose to warrant it anyway after a cautionary discussion with the client.

Some manufacturers take steps to investigate what is viable in a new design:  We have a policy, when new rings are introduced, to create a prototype and send it into the field for ‘wear and tear’ testing before making it available to the public.  We use a person who is active with their hands and gauge the results in order to modify the design as necessary.  Of course, even if all goes perfectly in the trial period it is no guarantee for every person who will ever wear the design, but it provides a working baseline to head off errors before a public release.

There is no such thing as an invulnerable ring, and every person is different.  This is real life.  These things will happen.  The best manufacturers stand behind their products when such things do happen.

John

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John Pollard

Whiteflash Director of Education 2004-2007