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 Holloway Cut Adviser

P:  11/18/2008 3:41:45 AM  
MissDimity
MissDimity

Cut Rock
Total Posts: 184
Last Post: 6/15/2009
Member Since: 10/31/2008
 
Hi all,

My SO and I are going shopping for diamonds and I am now very familiar in using the HCA tool attached to this PS site. However, if I were to go and check out diamonds (through diamond merchant/ jeweler), is there a formula I can use using depth%, table%, crown angle, pavilion angle or crown % , pavillion %, measures, to calculate the score on the spot, rather than taking measures and then having to check them online.

Would appreciate any help on the matter? because otherwise I would be just going to the dealer and saying I want an excellent or ideal cut, however a score below 2 isn't always reflected with "excellent" cut diamonds.
Posted:  11/18/2008 3:41:45 AM

 There are 5 replies to this message.  There are 5 replies on this page.

P: 11/18/2008 3:43:01 AM
Lorelei
Lorelei

Ideal Rock
Total Posts: 34,287
Last Post: 11/25/2009
Member Since: 4/30/2005
 

Here are some numbers you can use, the cheat sheet that many PSers have used for some time now.  These won't calculate the HCA score but are very safe numbers you can use as a guideline to find a well cut stone.  If you have the numbers and some candidates which fit that you can see, then you can manage without the HCA.  Or if you wish, ask the jeweller if you can borrow his computer and run them through that way!

depth - 60 - 62% - although my personal preference is to allow up to 62.4%
table - 54- 57%
crown angle - 34- 35 degrees
pavilion angle - 40.6- 41 degrees
girdle - avoid extremes, look for thin to slightly thick, thin to medium etc
polish and symmetry - very good and above


note - with crown and pavilion angles at the shallower ends ( CA 34- PA 40.6) and steeper ( CA 35- PA 41) check to make sure these angles complement in that particular diamond - eyeballs, Idealscope, trusted vendor input - check as appropriate!

Also here are some good angle combos which might help from one of the experts.

Here's a "Cliff's Notes" for staying near Tolkowsky/ideal angles with GIA reports (their numbers are rounded):  A crown angle of 34.0, 34.5 or 35.0 is usually safe with a 40.8 pavilion angle.  If pavilion angle = 40.6 lean toward a 34.5-35.0 crown.  If pavilion angle = 41 lean toward a 34.0-34.5 crown.




GIA "EX" in cut is great at its heart, but it ranges a bit wider than some people prefer, particularly in deep combinations (pavilion > 41 with crown > 35).









Nothing is more sacred as the bond between horse and rider...no other creature can ever become so emotionally close to a human as a horse. When a horse dies, the memory lives on because an enormous part of his owner's heart, soul, very existence dies also...but that can never be laid to rest, it is not meant to be...
- Stephanie M Thorn

Posted:  11/18/2008 3:43:01 AM
P: 11/18/2008 3:49:20 AM
MissDimity
MissDimity

Cut Rock
Total Posts: 184
Last Post: 6/15/2009
Member Since: 10/31/2008
 
Thanks for your prompt response and info, Lorelai !

That's a good cheat sheet to have and is exactly the kind of details that I wanted to know, for what I should look out for.

Thanks again !

Posted:  11/18/2008 3:49:20 AM
P: 11/18/2008 3:58:19 AM
Lorelei
Lorelei

Ideal Rock
Total Posts: 34,287
Last Post: 11/25/2009
Member Since: 4/30/2005
 
Date: 11/18/2008 3:49:20 AM
Author: MissDimity
Thanks for your prompt response and info, Lorelai !

That's a good cheat sheet to have and is exactly the kind of details that I wanted to know, for what I should look out for.

Thanks again !

You are most welcome, very glad to help you dear!









Nothing is more sacred as the bond between horse and rider...no other creature can ever become so emotionally close to a human as a horse. When a horse dies, the memory lives on because an enormous part of his owner's heart, soul, very existence dies also...but that can never be laid to rest, it is not meant to be...
- Stephanie M Thorn

Posted:  11/18/2008 3:58:19 AM
P: 11/18/2008 4:52:50 AM
Stone-cold11
Stone-cold11

Ideal Rock
Total Posts: 6,939
Last Post: 11/25/2009
Member Since: 9/9/2008
 
Date: 11/18/2008 3:41:45 AM
Author:MissDimity

Would appreciate any help on the matter? because otherwise I would be just going to the dealer and saying I want an excellent or ideal cut, however a score below 2 isn't always reflected with 'excellent' cut diamonds.


And a GIA excellent will not always score below a HCA 2.

HCA < 2 includes shallower crown/pavilion angle combinations that are classified as pendant/earring stone by Holloway, check out the usage and warning information. These will look dark when you view the stone too closely but perform well in normal viewing distances. If you find one in the store, check it out carefully and see if the stone lose it brilliance when you look at it closely.

Also check out what Holloway termed as the FIC and BIC cuts. These are away from the normal ideal cuts dimension, with BIC having less than 32.5 degrees crown angle and FIC greater than 35.5 degrees crown angle. BIC will look bigger and brighter for a given weight but less fire return. FIC will have more fire return but slightly smaller for a given weight and less brilliance return. These can also be of good value because they are class outside of ideal/excellent cuts thus you will pay less of a premium on the cuts when they still perform great.

Hope this helps.

Posted:  11/18/2008 4:52:50 AM
P: 11/18/2008 5:04:14 AM
Garry H (Cut Nut)
Garry H (Cut Nut)

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Total Posts: 11,587
Last Post: 11/25/2009
Member Since: 8/16/2000
 

HCA predates and out modes other earlier proportion based systems.


None should be seen as anyhting other than rejection tools.

None are now linear - so you can not get what you want in a simple form

Garry Holloway FGAA DipDT

HCA and Ideal-scope developer

http://www.ideal-scope.com and
http://www.HollowayDiamonds.com.au

Posted:  11/18/2008 5:04:14 AM

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