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Unplated White Gold

Maisie

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Dec 30, 2006
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12,586
I am interested in this ring by James Meyer. I originally wanted Platinum but was wondering about unplated White Gold. I know there are some people here who have this and wondered how it holds up. Does it need any kind of maintainance? How does it look after a year or more of wear? I don't want to keep having WG replated so i'm looking for something which needs less upkeep. I like the patina that develops on Plat so I wouldn't keep having it polished up if I go with that.

Thank you for any help :))

1407.jpg
 

Amys Bling

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Jun 25, 2010
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11,025
That's a great ring! I have white gold but it only a small metal sizing bar in the back- the rest is prong set diamonds. I have not replated it since June and it doesn't bother me...
 

distracts

Ideal_Rock
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Oct 11, 2011
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If you aren't allergic to nickel or are using a nickel-free alloy, WG shouldn't need too much upkeep.

My concern with the patina of platinum on that piece is that some of the nooks and crannies in the design will still be shiny for quite a while after much of the band has gotten a patina. It bothers me on my e-ring that the prongs are still shiny while the band has a patina. I don't know how much that would bother you, and I don't know exactly how WG wearing differs from that of YG - though I have to say I have YG pieces that I have had for a long time that have never needed polishing.
 

Maisie

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Dec 30, 2006
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I like yellow gold but really fancy a white metal. Platinum is my metal of choice but unplated white gold looks like it could be a good option too. I just wonder how it holds up... I suppose its probably similar to yellow gold.
 

Enerchi

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Oct 4, 2011
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I have a plated WG w platinum ring and it showed up with a gray tone within 1.5 months of wearing it. If I could do it again, I would not plate it. There is the maintenance to think about and I wish I had not rhodium plated my ring.
 

Maisie

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Enerchi|1331163613|3143405 said:
I have a plated WG w platinum ring and it showed up with a gray tone within 1.5 months of wearing it. If I could do it again, I would not plate it. There is the maintenance to think about and I wish I had not rhodium plated my ring.

So you would still have bought your setting in white gold, just not plated it? Do you like the colour of unplated gold? I do, from pictures I have seen on here. I haven't seen it in real life.
 

Enerchi

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Maisie|1331164237|3143413 said:
Enerchi|1331163613|3143405 said:
I have a plated WG w platinum ring and it showed up with a gray tone within 1.5 months of wearing it. If I could do it again, I would not plate it. There is the maintenance to think about and I wish I had not rhodium plated my ring.

So you would still have bought your setting in white gold, just not plated it? Do you like the colour of unplated gold? I do, from pictures I have seen on here. I haven't seen it in real life.
I'm torn. I'm not sure if I would go unplated for the look of it, or just to avoid the nuisance aspect of the company I purchased from.

Rhodium plating is lovely and white and "NEW" looking. Unplated is warm and comforting and 'settled' in its appearance. I think it depends on what appeals to you, but over all, the company I had my custom ring made at, has not left me feeling satisfied overall.

Are you are bright/white/shiny person -then rhodium is the way to go. If you are a low maintenance/warm/'settled' person, then I'd recommend unplated.

You have to see the to decide what works for you visually and interms of maintenance.

(I would personally go unplated next time...)
 

Mike R

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Apr 4, 2010
Messages
242
Hi Maisie,
I don't wear either but I see rings every day that I have made come back in for polishing, in my opinion I really think they both sort of look the same after a few years of wear. Both have small dents and scratches, the patterns may look slightly different but the overall effect is they both look pretty beat up and they both need repolishing.

The type of alloy you have and the method of manufacture will also play a huge part in how they wear over time and keep in mind the more metal you have (wide broad surfaces) the more area there is to show the dents and scratches.

I know platinum gets a bad rep on here for patina but honestly I think it is unwarranted.
I sometimes think what people think is patina on their platinum or gold pieces is actually microscopic porosity bubbles, they can give the surface of any cast metal a very dark/dull look and it also creates a softer metal that will be more prone to denting.

I would be really interested to hear from those that had a problem with platinum as to what alloy they had and if the ring was cast or handmade. I'm not suggesting all castings are bad, just that it takes a specialist to avoid some of the problems with casting platinum and then a really good quality control team to reject the bad castings.

The ring looks really nice Maisie, I would get whatever metal the maker feels he gets his best results from. =)
 

yialanliu

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Dec 4, 2011
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I would be really interested to hear from those that had a problem with platinum as to what alloy they had and if the ring was cast or handmade. I'm not suggesting all castings are bad, just that it takes a specialist to avoid some of the problems with casting platinum and then a really good quality control team to reject the bad castings.

I completely agree. I worked at a handmade flute shop and our platinum yields are still under 50% and that's with 20+ years doing the same thing from the same person. Granted the quality needed for these 60k flutes is different than rings but with strict standards, even what you thought was going to be a good batch might be completely ruined.
 

Cehrabehra

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Jun 29, 2006
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11,071
If you want the metal to look like platinum/rhodium then you're going to be disappointed in unplated white gold. I *LOVE* unplated white gold. Love it. No maintenance. But it's not white. It's not yellow. It's the *perfect shade between - like cream. I adore it - but if you are expecting it to be a maintenance free white you need platinum.
 

Jennifer W

Brilliant_Rock
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Jun 18, 2010
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I love platinum, it's always my first choice for myself. That said, if you're looking for a bright white metal, subject to the design you want and the artist you are working with , I wouldn't dismiss silver. Some of the newer alloys are tarnish resistant and can be much harder than traditional sterling.

Of course, I'm biased, since I'm learning to work in silver, but it's what diamonds used to be set in. I think it's a much over-looked metal and its time should come again... ;))
 

elliemay

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Jan 5, 2012
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Cehrabehra said:
If you want the metal to look like platinum/rhodium then you're going to be disappointed in unplated white gold. I *LOVE* unplated white gold. Love it. No maintenance. But it's not white. It's not yellow. It's the *perfect shade between - like cream. I adore it - but if you are expecting it to be a maintenance free white you need platinum.

Agreed. Definitely try to see some unplated white gold in person because the color might surprise you. It's not white but not yellow and I think you either love it or hate it. There's also the issue of manufacturers' alloys being slightly different colors. Yssie posted a really helpful picture in this thread: https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/why-is-unplated-white-gold-taboo.160711/

A - plat (950/ru)
B - unplated 18k nickel wg from e-wb, custom piece (different manufacturer, matches my WF custom Ering metal perfectly)
C - unplated 18k nickel wg from e-wb, stock piece
D - plated 18k wg from WF
E - 22k

Metals2_1.png

You can see there's a slight color difference between B and C even though they're both unplated white gold.

My own wedding band is 18k unplated white gold and it's somewhere between B and C -- closer to C than B -- which really goes go to show that different manufacturers produce different colors, even of the same type of metal.
 

audball

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Oct 2, 2008
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4,946
Is it possible to order the ring from JM unplated and see if you like it? Does he have any type of return policy if it's one of his in stock rings and not custom?

Worst case you don't like the color, you return it. OR if you love the ring, can you plate it after the fact?

I'm on the fence about this topic myself. I'm personally not a fan of the patina of platinum or the more grey color, but I'm unsure about the maintenance of white gold.

I'm looking at buying a setting from Sholdt in 18kt white gold (they use a nickel alloy) and I've been trying to decide whether or not to ask them to not plate it. Is it possible to just have it plated by a local jeweler after it arrives if I dislike the color? I'm not sure. If it is and it would be the same as having Sholdt plate it, may as well go unplated, yes? Then at least you have a choice?
 

Maisie

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Dec 30, 2006
Messages
12,586
Thank you everyone for the great responses. You are all very helpful!!

I can't get the ring from James Meyer. He won't work with customers stones and I am far too much of a control freak to let someone else choose my diamond. This ring is never going to be changed. I learned my lesson from upgrading over and over and I want this ring to be final :))

I do like the look of unplated white gold. But I also love the heft of platinum. But, having a thick shank on a ring is going to show up the platinum patina even more, its not like there will be diamonds or anything to hide some of it. While I don't mind the patina i'm not sure I would like it on a thicker ring.

Maybe I should get yellow gold. I grew up with yg jewellery and it does suit my skin tone better. I think I am just drawn towards platinum because of the value of the metal. I would feel like I was getting the best metal for my ring/money. Does that make sense?
 
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