Tension setting lovers: Elle, D&T, Kenny, MikeRato1...et al.

[dreamer_dachsie]

OK, so I went out looking at rings again and tried on some tension settings.

Can I just say YUMMY! I love a thick, substantial band, you can wear it on its own, you can see the whole dang diamond. Awesome. A feat of engineering. So modern and sleek.

I am going to see some Kretchmer rings tomorrow, it just happens that one of only 5 dealers in Canada is in my town! How lucky.

But the place I went today is a small operation that hand fabricates all of their gold jewelry. No wax, just using their hands to bend and shape the metal. Filing the metal, using a welder. Honestly I have no idea how it works, but it impressed the heck out of me. And it is all done in house. And they are German and Polish metalsmiths who love tension rings and make their own metal mixes that they say are harder and less prone to bending than even Kretchmer et al. (maybe a line, maybe not... who knows).

While I know it is best to go with a name brand in many or most cases, I like the pieces they had and I like the idea of supporting a local artisan. What kinds of questions would one ask to assess whether someone really knew what they were doing when making a tension setting?? Is it just too risky?

 

[kenny]

Sorry I have no clue.
I'd only trust Niessing, Steven Kretchmer, Gelin Abaci or Boonerings.
I think there are special alloys and or processes for tension settings.
I think every company you talk to will tell you they are best but are not going to reveal any technical info to help you compare.
I don't think many tensions settings are made, so collecting info may not be easy.

AFAIC there's too much at stake to trust a company that does not specialize in this.
It is entirely possible that I'm just misinformed and I've bought into these companies marketing and proper tensions settings are easy to make, but fear is a powerful thing.

But welcome to the family.
Tension settings are the only way to go IMHO.
We have four of them, three titanium Boonering and one platinum Gelin Abaci.
They are soooo easy to keep clean and let light in and out at all angles.
Tons of bling comes out the pavilion of the Solasfera, ACA, Asscher and Octavia - probably because the setting lets light into it all over.
After you get used to one other settings make diamonds look like they are in prison behind bars.

Maybe ask your local artisan if they will put this in writing, "If the diamond ever is lost because the ring failed to hold it we will replace the diamond with a similar one for the life of the customer."
Even then that guarantee is only as good as long as they stay in business.

 

[Bella_mezzo]

DD I have to say, I always smile when I see your threads. I think you have the most thoroughly researched ring on all of PS

Tension could be lovely.

Do you like the Sholdt semi bezels? They seem like they might be up your alley.

 

[dreamer_dachsie]

Date: 3/15/2010 11:07:22 PM
Author: kenny

Maybe ask your local artisan if they will put this in writing, ''If the diamond ever is lost because the ring failed to hold it we will replace the diamond with a similar one for the life of the customer.''
Even then that guarantee is only as good as long as they stay in business.

I asked this and he will not make the guarantee. I doubt any company would. Does Bruce? Just curious. I love Boone rings but I think that titanium is not for me.

I just read through Steven Kretchmer''s information page and it is convincing me that I would like to get the "real thing" if possible. Although I am not always into "names", I feel like his settings are a work of art and it would be really cool to own an original. Like owning an Eames chair or something

This statement on Kretchmer really appeals to me too: "Impacted by unusual force, a prong-mounted stone can shift and loosen when the prongs bend, but a Tension-Set™ stone is held by pressure, secured into the seat by specially heat- treated precious metal alloys, and needs no routine tightening or maintenance."

And they now offer a nickel free, non-rhodium plated 18KT gold alloy.

I am getting excited!

 

[dreamer_dachsie]

Date: 3/15/2010 11:07:22 PM
Author: kenny
We have four of them, three titanium Boonering and one platinum Gelin Abaci.
They are soooo easy to keep clean and let light in and out at all angles.
Tons of bling comes out the pavilion of the Solasfera, ACA, Asscher and Octavia - probably because the setting lets light into it all over.

Kenny do you and your partner wear the same ring size so you can wear any of the rings you want? That would be pretty cool.

 

[bgray]

okay Dreamer you have me really confused now!

 

[dreamer_dachsie]

Date: 3/15/2010 11:49:41 PM
Author: bgray
okay Dreamer you have me really confused now!

No no, I am on track -- I want a new setting for my diamond. Simple, see

ETA Here is what I wrote in my other thread:

"I went out trying on rings today and it was very clear to me that a 1.75ct diamond is my dream ideal perfect size. But it is also very clear to me that I want at least H color. So I will need to save for a few years before making that leap. So right now I am going to upgrade clarity, and maybe a little size , and I am going to focus my attention on getting a setting I love and adore! I think it will make all the difference in the world to how I feel about my ring. I want something a little unique and special, a little quirky, like me"

Clear as mud, right?

 

[kenny]

For ring fingers I wear size 8 and he wears 10.5, but the 10.5 Octavia fits on my middle finger.

Keep in mind tension settings are individually made to the diamond.
If you change the diamond you'll need a new ring.

 

[dreamer_dachsie]

Date: 3/15/2010 11:59:20 PM
Author: kenny
For ring fingers I wear size 8 and he wears 10.5, but the 10.5 Octavia fits on my middle finger.

Keep in mind tension settings are individually made to the diamond.
If you change the diamond you''ll need a new ring.

Yes, I know about this. This setting and diamond will be with me for years to come. It is worth the investment for me to adore my ring, if this is the setting I choose. I think it will help scratch the upgrade bug to have a whole ring that is a piece of art, rather than a diamond in a holder, which I presently have.

 

[dreamer_dachsie]

Date: 3/15/2010 11:32:11 PM
Author: Bella_mezzo

DD I have to say, I always smile when I see your threads. I think you have the most thoroughly researched ring on all of PS

Tension could be lovely.

Do you like the Sholdt semi bezels? They seem like they might be up your alley.

I am a researcher. I like to have a project. I enjoyed planning my wedding and then it was TTC and pregnancy and now it is my ring! What next?

I love Sholdt but the negatives that Elle has pointed out make me less positive about it (cleaning the pavilion, can't wear a semi-eternity band with it etc). I need to see it before I decide, and there is no dealer near me. I contacted Sholdt and I will see what they say.

 

[cmarie]

Hey, I''m interested in pairing a Sholdt or tension with an eternity or semi-eternity someday FAR in the future, but I don''t see the original source of the "negatives that Elle has pointed out" and I would like to read more about them. Can someone point me to the right thread, or am I missing something?

By the way, Dreamer, it sounds like you and I have the exact same personality type, or at least the same approach to these sorts of things (as well as very similar taste in rings!). I am a huge planner, and every purchase or life decision only comes with a gargantuan amount of online research and lots and lots of thought.

 

[dreamer_dachsie]

Date: 3/16/2010 12:52:08 AM
Author: cmarie
Hey, I''m interested in pairing a Sholdt or tension with an eternity or semi-eternity someday FAR in the future, but I don''t see the original source of the ''negatives that Elle has pointed out'' and I would like to read more about them. Can someone point me to the right thread, or am I missing something?

By the way, Dreamer, it sounds like you and I have the exact same personality type, or at least the same approach to these sorts of things (as well as very similar taste in rings!). I am a huge planner, and every purchase or life decision only comes with a gargantuan amount of online research and lots and lots of thought.

It is agonizing when you want o be so *sure* sometimes, isn''t it?

Hopefully Elle and D&T will see this and will tell us what they can about their Sholdts!

I know Elle is a BIG tension set fan so I also wanted her opinion of that style too.

 

[Lurchie]

Fun! I'm eager to hear what you thought of the Kretchmer settings! My e-ring is similar face-up to a tension setting but has a thin bridge that the pavilion rests on. It's extremely secure and was made by a local artisan too. I can't get the picture to upload right now, but you've probably seen it. (ETA, duh, avatar, but I wanted to show you a 3/4 view.

)Chunkier bands also look better on my hands than delicate ones. It's not necessarily finger size, IMO, as much as it is finger length. I'm not sure what the point of this post is anymore...

 

[D&T]

hey DD!!! Unfortunately on Tension setting, I too would only go with a brand that has been around for a very long time, otherwise if you do go with a NON- brand, I would definitely comb through their warranty and fine print. If you browse through ebay, you might find some "nice" looking tension, however if you were to buy one, and "tested" it out, you might be surprise that the diamond might spring out

I haven''t yet bought one (since I''m cheap and would rather not risk my own money just to test it out...lol, but I spoke to one jeweler before and he bought a tension setting off of ebay once and played with it a bit

) anyhoot, I''m glad to see that you liked the look of them as well. Its amazing how they suspend those diamonds!... in my next life... or upgrade

might be springing for another one but a True tension without the bridge... who knows...lol.

The idea of supporting a local artisan is an admirable and so long as you are happy with the product and obviously you know about insurance, then I don''t see any problem with going with them. With any settings there are always that possibility with stone loss or chips. My first ering, was a princess cut Faux tension with the bridge underneath and my stone did not come loose at all during the five years of 24/7 wear. I also threw it at the wall once really hard

, and notta nothing happend to it!

I see that you were once interested in the semi bezel from Sholdt, I am pretty sure that Sholdt could make it where your pavilion can open up a bit, I can pair with my ring any type of wedding band as it sits a bit higher and flush, and Sholdt would be able to make this with plain shank as well, My pavilion is very open, I have no problem cleaning it.

WHen you try on tension setting rings, just be aware that many will sit pretty low, and without any profile metal support to the tension set diamond, your diamond band, *might* scratch the actual diamond. I tried on a couple of G&A settings and I was quite nervous pairing it with any diamond weddng band with exposed girdles as it was too close for comfort for me, just a thought.

 

[D&T]

oh, a while ago, we were having a discussion with a SHoldt representative and Portlandkelly had her originall diamond set like this pictured, but then she had Sholdt bring it down and now is more snug like Elle''s ring so it is possible for Sholdt to set your stone how you''d like it to some extent. Hope this helps

 

[MustangGal]

I never really thought I''d like tension set stones, but my supervisor at work has about a 1.25ct round in what looks like a Gelin Abaci yellow gold ring with channel set diamonds down each side. Anytime I''m near her I find myself sneaking peaks at her ring!

My only question would be, did your ring size change during/after your last pregnancy? I know you want another child soon, and some women have issues with that, so it may be worth waiting until after #2 is born.

 

[dreamer_dachsie]

Date: 3/16/2010 4:14:26 PM
Author: MustangGal
I never really thought I''d like tension set stones, but my supervisor at work has about a 1.25ct round in what looks like a Gelin Abaci yellow gold ring with channel set diamonds down each side. Anytime I''m near her I find myself sneaking peaks at her ring!

My only question would be, did your ring size change during/after your last pregnancy? I know you want another child soon, and some women have issues with that, so it may be worth waiting until after #2 is born.

My finger swelled when I was pregnant but it is now the same size it was before. I am actually not too worried about it with my second child, but I guess anything can happen! I will keep that in mind when I think about it.

 

[dreamer_dachsie]

Date: 3/16/2010 1:53:44 PM
Author: D&T
oh, a while ago, we were having a discussion with a SHoldt representative and Portlandkelly had her originall diamond set like this pictured, but then she had Sholdt bring it down and now is more snug like Elle''s ring so it is possible for Sholdt to set your stone how you''d like it to some extent. Hope this helps

D&T that is a very helpful picture. I think it is going to boil down to whether or not I can see it in person. I am just not comfortable buying a setting that is so distinctive without seeing it first! I have not been able to try something even close in style I am afraid.

In your other thread did you post the dimensions of your ring -- width and thickness of the band?

 

[D&T]

Date: 3/16/2010 4:22:28 PM
Author: dreamer_d

D&T that is a very helpful picture. I think it is going to boil down to whether or not I can see it in person. I am just not comfortable buying a setting that is so distinctive without seeing it first! I have not been able to try something even close in style I am afraid.

In your other thread did you post the dimensions of your ring -- width and thickness of the band?

I'm using my plain 2mm band as a frame of reference let me attach a picture so hopefully it might help.

ETA: the height of the ering, is about 1.6mm - maybe at the most 1.8mm (for sure less than 2mm)

 

[dreamer_dachsie]

Thanks D&T! That is so helpful!

I tried on the tension set ring. Let me tell you that the Kretchmar design is so much more delicate than it looks in photos! It was really stunning, and if I had a smaller diamond or wanted an everyday stand alone ring, that would be it. But I don''t think it was "the one". And I am not ok with the local artisan for something like that.

So back to the drawing board!

Still working on getting a Sholdt to see in person.

 

[gardengloves]

Interesting direction Dreamer. I love the concept of these tension set rings with light all around, versus, trapped in a cage. Very unique and beautiful.

Your G is totally gorgeous, I love your stone - the final decision will be amazing. Glad you are using your research skills to explore, and find the right setting for you.

 

[elle_chris]

Hey DD, sorry I didn't post here sooner (too busy with pearls).

I adore Kretchmer, Niessing and Bunz designs. Niessing and Bunz are both german companies and it seems that the more modern, contemporary designs seem to come from germany, including high end tension rings.

As far as your local guy, I really don't know what you can ask? I agree that a guarantee won't do any good as no company I've ever heard of would guarantee something like that, so I'd probably stick to the ones that are known for tension rings. But their designs are not cheap. A Niessing ring I'm going to eventually purchase (and one of their more simple designs) was quoted over 3k. Kretchmer is in the same price range. And that range is the low end. So that might be a consideration.


Now onto Sholdt

When I posted the issues of cleaning and wearing a diamond band together, I didn't know that Sholdt came make the design more open. Portland Kelly's ring, which is almost exactly like mine, was set higher like D&T said. She wanted it more snug so asked them to modify it. D&T's is the more open version. I have no idea what method Sholdt uses to decide on which design for a particular stone. All I know is mine is very, very snug, set very low and it's imposible to wear a shared prong band without the girdles scratching my e-ring stone unless it's chanel set. It's also impossible to clean the whole diamond as the bottom and sides are closed in unlike D&T's where you can see both.

I'm curious to see which desings you're considering. Any pics?