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HWinston micropave ring shank size & VC smallest shank size

AandW

Rough_Rock
Joined
Mar 7, 2015
Messages
36
Hi!

I (think) I am going through the final steps of choosing the center stone, and am starting to think about where to have it shipped to for setting.

Initial thoughts are to go with Victor Canera for a Harry Winston micropave lookalike, and wanted to find out if anyone knows what is the shank size for the HW micropave ring? (I've tried asking various HW stores but I've gotten different answers from different stores :???: )

Also, I spoke to VC and he said that the smallest shank size he would do is 1.8mm, has anyone recently successfully managed to persuade him to do something thinner? I understand that 1.8mm is already quite thin, but I'm trying to go for a delicate look as possible (also because I have very short fingers!)

Thanks for any input you can give!
 

ame

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
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Messages
10,794
Re: HWinston micropave ring shank size & VC smallest shank s

AandW|1427314689|3852375 said:
Hi!

I (think) I am going through the final steps of choosing the center stone, and am starting to think about where to have it shipped to for setting.

Initial thoughts are to go with Victor Canera for a Harry Winston micropave lookalike, and wanted to find out if anyone knows what is the shank size for the HW micropave ring? (I've tried asking various HW stores but I've gotten different answers from different stores :???: )

Also, I spoke to VC and he said that the smallest shank size he would do is 1.8mm, has anyone recently successfully managed to persuade him to do something thinner? I understand that 1.8mm is already quite thin, but I'm trying to go for a delicate look as possible (also because I have very short fingers!)

Thanks for any input you can give!
If you go thinner he's going to have to make it taller off the finger to make it strong enough for wear, esp with pave. Otherwise that ring will bend when you put it on and wear it. 1.8 is VERY thin.
 

diamondseeker2006

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58,342
Re: HWinston micropave ring shank size & VC smallest shank s

I wouldn't consider thinner than 1.8mm. Even 2mm is thin. Victor is a master ring maker and makes as good or better quality than HW. Trust what he tells you.
 

arkieb1

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Re: HWinston micropave ring shank size & VC smallest shank s

In the early days of P/S Leon used to make pave shank sizes under 1.8mms and then a heap of people complained that their rings were damaged after no time at all from being bent out of shape, dinted, literally falling apart and a whole host of other issues. What I am saying is respected jewellers refuse to go less than a certain amount of mms for a reason..... unless of course you are cool with a ring that can get damaged the first time you bump it against something accidentally, in which case you will probably have to sign a form to get someone to make you something on the understanding if it gets destroyed within a year of owing it then it's on you.
 

AandW

Rough_Rock
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Messages
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Re: HWinston micropave ring shank size & VC smallest shank s

Got it, thanks for the input everyone...

This is my first ever ring (or real jewellery) of any sort, so I'm trying to figure out exactly what I want, and how to convey it.

I've only seen halos in real life at the bigger brand shops like Tiffany, Cartier, Debeers etc but the only one that I really liked was at Harry Winston, so I thought it would be safest to stick with its specifications....which is why I was trying to find out if anyone here knows the exact shank size for HW.

I love the pictures of the VC/SK halos here on Pricescope, but can't imagine what its actual dimensions are with regards to things like setting height, shank size/height etc!
 

ame

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Jul 7, 2004
Messages
10,794
Re: HWinston micropave ring shank size & VC smallest shank s

AandW|1427362988|3852572 said:
Got it, thanks for the input everyone...

This is my first ever ring (or real jewellery) of any sort, so I'm trying to figure out exactly what I want, and how to convey it.

I've only seen halos in real life at the bigger brand shops like Tiffany, Cartier, Debeers etc but the only one that I really liked was at Harry Winston, so I thought it would be safest to stick with its specifications....which is why I was trying to find out if anyone here knows the exact shank size for HW.

I love the pictures of the VC/SK halos here on Pricescope, but can't imagine what its actual dimensions are with regards to things like setting height, shank size/height etc!
They will know that stuff and how to reproduce those things safely. If you're willing to pay them for their work, they'll produce you a worthy piece.
 

AandW

Rough_Rock
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Mar 7, 2015
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36
VC's halo setting

Hi everyone!

I'm getting VC to set my oval stone in a halo setting, and am in the process of creating the work order.

I looked through many Emilyas here on PS and gave a lot of thought to the look I'm trying to achieve, but when I communicated my questions/requirements via email to his assistant, I felt that they were slightly disregarded, and was just told that he'll know what's best to do.

So I'm not sure if I didn't explain myself well enough, or is it the case that we can't really specify what exactly we want. For eg, I wanted to know how big the halo will be, or if it's possible to make the donut smaller (as it could end up being quite long to match an oval's shape), etc but was told that 'hard' specs are not discussed with clients.

From your experience with VC, is it best to speak to him directly on the phone, or just leave him to work his magic? This is my first experience with custom jewellery and I'm not sure how it works. I'm really nervous because I haven't come across an Oval Emilya with a donut on PS.

Thanks, especially to everyone who posted about their VC experience and their Emilyas! It gave me the confidence I needed to do the setting with someone who's not even in the same country :)
 

tmorrow

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Apr 1, 2015
Messages
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Re: VC's halo setting

AandW|1428660936|3859720 said:
So I'm not sure if I didn't explain myself well enough, or is it the case that we can't really specify what exactly we want.

Of course you can that is what custom is about.

For eg, I wanted to know how big the halo will be, or if it's possible to make the donut smaller (as it could end up being quite long to match an oval's shape), etc but was told that 'hard' specs are not discussed with clients.

It is best to specify in words and show a photo example, and make sure everything is included in the work order before you sign, pay or send him your diamond.

From your experience with VC, is it best to speak to him directly on the phone, or just leave him to work his magic? This is my first experience with custom jewellery and I'm not sure how it works. I'm really nervous because I haven't come across an Oval Emilya with a donut on PS.

First put together a file of EXACTLY what you want with photographs, do your homework and go see many rings in local stores(for shank size you really need to see to scale perspective not magnified photos), focussing on specific elements not the entire ring which you know won't be exactly what you want. Yes you need to speak to the designer directly not an assistant. If you have some questions about certain elements mention them to the designer and be ready to be a little flexible if they disagree and why. If I was paying thousands of dollars and a big premium over CAD/CAST I will surely get the designers time and discuss details until I am satisfied. Victor is friendly and approachable and also busy so keep both in mind.

Thanks, especially to everyone who posted about their VC experience and their Emilyas! It gave me the confidence I needed to do the setting with someone who's not even in the same country :)
 

MrsWhitney

Shiny_Rock
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Jul 19, 2012
Messages
287
Re: HWinston micropave ring shank size & VC smallest shank s

arkieb1|1427335652|3852492 said:
In the early days of P/S Leon used to make pave shank sizes under 1.8mms and then a heap of people complained that their rings were damaged after no time at all from being bent out of shape, dinted, literally falling apart and a whole host of other issues. What I am saying is respected jewellers refuse to go less than a certain amount of mms for a reason..... unless of course you are cool with a ring that can get damaged the first time you bump it against something accidentally, in which case you will probably have to sign a form to get someone to make you something on the understanding if it gets destroyed within a year of owing it then it's on you.


I remember this---- I think 1.8mm is actually what HW uses; my GF has one, and hers is 1.8mm....identical to the 1.8mm wedding band I had....(till it was lost)
 

Acinom

Super_Ideal_Rock
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10,535
Re: HWinston micropave ring shank size & VC smallest shank s

How exciting for you! I am an overseas customer and Victor made 3 settings for me. I would advice to tell him the features you find very important and/or an inspiration pic. Then let him do his magic. I would not try to micromanage him. I can assure you that the outcome will be fabulous.
 

AandW

Rough_Rock
Joined
Mar 7, 2015
Messages
36
Re: VC halo setting

I did actually send a file with examples showing what I preferred in terms of pave type, halo size etc and questions, but was just told that he'll know what to do.

Maybe I made the mistake of sending the diamond before finalizing the work order (I thought that he will be better able to answer my questions when he has the diamond with him). I'm not entirely comfortable with the response I received, and wasn't sure what custom jewellery etiquette is, but guess I will give him a call!

Wish me luck! :)
 

Acinom

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Re: VC halo setting

AandW|1428784454|3860499 said:
I did actually send a file with examples showing what I preferred in terms of pave type, halo size etc and questions, but was just told that he'll know what to do.

Maybe I made the mistake of sending the diamond before finalizing the work order (I thought that he will be better able to answer my questions when he has the diamond with him). I'm not entirely comfortable with the response I received, and wasn't sure what custom jewellery etiquette is, but guess I will give him a call!

Wish me luck! :)

Victor will determine the halo size based on the dimensions of your specific stone. And he truly does miracles. On the other hand... it does not work for everyone to do a custom project like this. Perhaps a designer that works with CAD's and who involves the customer more in the designing process would be more ideal for you. I strongly belief in choosing a designer who's 'signature style' you love and then trust his/her aesthetic eye. But that's a very personal choice.

Let us know how your conversation with Victor went!
 

diamondseeker2006

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58,342
Re: HWinston micropave ring shank size & VC smallest shank s

Victor does this type of setting all the time, and he is a master. He knows how to make them. I have never seen him make a ring with a large doughnut. The only things I would personally specify would be no pave on the doughnut because I don't want it scratching the wedding band and whether you want pave on the stems to the halo. If I were to speak with him, I would ask his opinion on certain details rather than presume to tell him what I wanted when he knows so much more about proportions, sizes of melee, etc.
 

arkieb1

Ideal_Rock
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Re: HWinston micropave ring shank size & VC smallest shank s

I've worked with Victor a few times as well and I disagree with the P/S member who has written in bold. People who are not jewellers probably should not attempt to micro manage jewellers and not expect it to end in tears IMHO.... Sending Victor, Leon, or Steven basic ideas is one thing telling them every last detail you think is going to look better than what they suggest in mms is another.

I guess what I am pointing out politely is that you are paying really to hand it over to them to make you something that looks stunning if you want to micro manage the project you need someone who works with and produces a number of CADs that you can alter throughout the process, hand forged work IMHO with jewellers of this calibre just doesn't work that way, instead I would suggest asking if he can do a donut like X or Y for you and allowing him to do the rest.
 

AandW

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Mar 7, 2015
Messages
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Re: HWinston micropave ring shank size & VC smallest shank s

diamondseeker2006|1428807288|3860683 said:
Victor does this type of setting all the time, and he is a master. He knows how to make them. I have never seen him make a ring with a large doughnut. The only things I would personally specify would be no pave on the doughnut because I don't want it scratching the wedding band and whether you want pave on the stems to the halo. If I were to speak with him, I would ask his opinion on certain details rather than presume to tell him what I wanted when he knows so much more about proportions, sizes of melee, etc.

What I meant with 'large' donut is that assuming the donut is oval shaped to match the center stone, the donut will be longer than one for a round/cushion center stone. To clarify, I did not specify that I wanted a donut that was exactly X mm, but just asked if he could try to make it as small as possible for an oval, so that a wedding band could sit as closely as possible.

And yes! I've read advice in previous posts about how pave on the donut could scratch the wedding band, so I am asking for this to be removed (my request has not been acknowledged in the work order, making me think that my list of questions/requests has not actually been read :lol: ). One other modification I'm trying to ask for is to have melee on top of the donut instead, like in HW micropave rings. VC doesn't think its a good idea, so I'm not sure if I should still ask him to give it a go, or just take his word for it. I really like how it looks on HW rings though!
 

AandW

Rough_Rock
Joined
Mar 7, 2015
Messages
36
Re: HWinston micropave ring shank size & VC smallest shank s

arkieb1|1428820351|3860718 said:
I've worked with Victor a few times as well and I disagree with the P/S member who has written in bold. People who are not jewellers probably should not attempt to micro manage jewellers and not expect it to end in tears IMHO.... Sending Victor, Leon, or Steven basic ideas is one thing telling them every last detail you think is going to look better than what they suggest in mms is another.

I guess what I am pointing out politely is that you are paying really to hand it over to them to make you something that looks stunning if you want to micro manage the project you need someone who works with and produces a number of CADs that you can alter throughout the process, hand forged work IMHO with jewellers of this calibre just doesn't work that way, instead I would suggest asking if he can do a donut like X or Y for you and allowing him to do the rest.
I understand what you mean, and one of the main reasons I chose VC was that I love his work that I've seen here on PS, and his reputation for consistency in work quality + happy customers.

I need to clarify again that I didn't specify that I wanted something to be X mm. For eg, I just said that I wanted delicate halo, and a photo of a halo setting to illustrate (I really don't know any better to be able to give specific instructions!). On that matter, would you all consider proportions like this to be a delicate halo? :)

_28984_0.jpg
 

WillyDiamond

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Re: HWinston micropave ring shank size & VC smallest shank s

Just a side note on this thread........I was at the Westchester Mall in White Plains, NY yesterday afternoon and held the most amazing oval in halo in my hand. The center stone was a D, VVS2. I think the center stone was about 2.50 carats in a very delicate pave work. The price tag of $117K was enough to make your eyeballs pop out. If anyone is in the area, go take a look.
Oh yes, good luck to the OP in finding the setting he wants.

edit: the ring was at Tiffany's, sorry for not including in post above.
 

AandW

Rough_Rock
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Mar 7, 2015
Messages
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Re: HWinston micropave ring shank size & VC smallest shank s

WillyDiamond|1428839257|3860770 said:
Just a side note on this thread........I was at the Westchester Mall in White Plains, NY yesterday afternoon and held the most amazing oval in halo in my hand. The center stone was a D, VVS2. I think the center stone was about 2.50 carats in a very delicate pave work. The price tag of $117K was enough to make your eyeballs pop out. If anyone is in the area, go take a look.
Oh yes, good luck to the OP in finding the setting he wants.

edit: the ring was at Tiffany's, sorry for not including in post above.

$117k :shock:
 

AandW

Rough_Rock
Joined
Mar 7, 2015
Messages
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Insurance while setting

Another quick question, do I need to insure the diamond while it's at VC? :think:

Thanks
 
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