double prong vs single prong settings

[the_universe]

why would anyone ever want a double prong instead of a single prong setting? Double prongs covers up more of the stone. I see lots of jewelers work with both on varying sizes of stones (sometimes smaller stones can have double prong while some larger stones have single prong). Is double prong ever considered more desirable? If so, under what conditions?

double prong:
1) more material = more cost
2) twice as many prongs to fit = more cost
3) hides more of the stone = less performance?

So yes, Im playing devils advocate because I don't understand most likely due to my lack of experience. So please teach me a thing or 2.

 

[Gypsy]

If a jeweler can do them right (very few can) double claw prongs can look fantastic. BUT you have to have a larger stone usually for them to look balanced. I have a 1.09 carat asscher and even done by a prong master like Steven Kirsch double claw prongs would have been too much for my stone.

I quite adore them though.

Leon
Steven
Steven
Victor

 

[Gypsy]

In addition to the aesthetics, for larger stones more prongs mean more security.

And yes, you do have a lot of learn. I would start at the top of the page with the "knowledge" tab. Also please note on the top right hand side under the tabs there is a search function. Please use it to mind the 1000's of old threads on here on just about any topic you could want, including prongs.

Here are some more pics of double claw prongs done right. But again, as I said, most jewelers CANNOT do them right (even if they think they can). On pricescope we value those jewelers that can. And if you do want the look we'd be happy to recommend a bench that can do them.

This link is a ring by ERD with them: [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/erd-my-cushion-side-baguette-ring.204594/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/erd-my-cushion-side-baguette-ring.204594/[/URL]

Steven



Also usually there isn't a lot of extra expense with double claw prongs.

 

[the_universe]

so you dont think these rings would look better with single prong style instead?

 

[the_mother_thing]

I do like them from an added security standpoint for larger stones, but they are also a preference thing, IMO ... like cushion vs round. It's a look ... some people like it, others don't. When done right, on a larger stone, I LOVE them! And on a larger stone, I don't think the little bit of extra coverage on the stone makes a huge difference compared to the overall look of the piece.

 

[the_universe]

those double claw prongs do have a way of making the center stone look more important.

With regards to "more security" is that ever really an issue? does the center stone ever actually come off? are prongs prone to breaking?

Also Gypsy can you please have a look at my e-ring in on my other thread here if you get a moment and give some input if you have any. I am already thinking to have the double "nubby" prongs changed to double claw prongs or single claw prongs:
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...halo-around-a-12x9-dark-opal.205729/#p3743656

 

[the_mother_thing]

So what exactly do you like about it? Do you think it makes the center stone more important?

also with regards to "more security" is that ever really an issue? does the center stone ever actually come off? are prongs prone to breaking?

I just like the look, especially the claw style. It looks elegant and classy to me. And the physical appearance of added security is also a visually appealing aspect. I wouldn't say it makes the stone look "more important" (not sure exactly what that is supposed to mean).

And yes, security can be an issue with some stones & settings. If one of four prongs on a round stone were to break or bend, I would think the stone could slide out pretty easily and be lost. But if there are 8 prongs, and one bends or breaks, or two even, I wouldn't think the stone will move out as easily. I had an asscher cut sapphire that was initially set in the corners with single prongs, and the stone turned and popped right out when the jeweler had it in the cleaner. He rebuilt the prongs to be doubles, and the sapphire is perfectly secure now.

 

[the_universe]

I just like the look, especially the claw style. It looks elegant and classy to me. And the physical appearance of added security is also a visually appealing aspect. I wouldn't say it makes the stone look "more important" (not sure exactly what that is supposed to mean).

for example: I would say that a halo makes the center stone look more important (if done right).

likewise in the 1st and 2nd pics gypsy posted, the accenting stones only have single prongs. so more attention is brought to double prongs making the center stone look more important than the surrounding stones.

 

[the_mother_thing]

So more "prominent"? Perhaps, but that's not what does it for me. I just like the classy style/look of it. Just like some people prefer Coach over Dooney.

 

[Gypsy]

Who is doing your ring?

Because you seem to be missing the point. Double claw prongs are great IF YOU LIKE THE LOOK and even then, ONLY IF YOU LIKE the LOOK.

The point I was making was that double claw prongs are rarely properly executed.

So no. I don't recommend you have your jeweler do them. Unless they have done them in the past. And can provide you with at least 3 examples of them.

With your ring you can six or eight prongs all equidistant around the stone.

 

[Gypsy]

Also, I've kept quiet and haven't responded to your thread for a reason.

I don't think you should spend the kind of money you are spending on such a unique ring without making sure your lady will love it.

A) Opals are a terrible choice for an engagement ring. They are way to smart. Add a yellow diamond halo you are going to make it look like a cocktail ring. Not an engagement ring.

B) I know your girl said she wants a halo but did she pick an opal as the center stone?

C) And I strongly suggest you stick to white diamonds for the halo. And no, with the yellow gold it won't be distracting or cluttered.

You aren't the first guy and you won't be the last to get unwisely creative and carried away with an engagement ring design. I don't care if your lady wants or surprise or you do. Either way, it's irrelevant at this point. Show her the opal and the CAD with the yellow diamonds and make sure she loves it NOW.

 

[chrono]

Yes, there are many in the Coloured Stone forum who had stones fall out of their single prong settings.
Yes, a double prong lessens the risk of the stone falling out.
Double prongs can be made thinner than single prongs because there is more support.
If not done right, double prongs or single prongs can "eat" the stone if too bulky.

The key, is the execution by your jeweller. I've seen both good and bad single and double prong rings.

 

[VRBeauty]

Yes prongs break and stones get lost as a result. My mother had a 2c. round in a tiffany-style 4-rpong setting, and the stone came out TWICE. The first time she found it in her purse, the second time she was at work when she noticed the stone was gone, and she eventually found it in the parking lot, next to her car. (Fortunately she worked the swing shift, so there was less foot traffic at that time.) She changed to a more protective setting after the second incident. For a stone of that size I'd definitely want double prongs... but I'd also want to see examples of the jeweler's work to be sure he's able to make delicate prongs.

 

[Gypsy]

Also, I've kept quiet and haven't responded to your thread for a reason.

I don't think you should spend the kind of money you are spending on such a unique ring without making sure your lady will love it.

A) Opals are a terrible choice for an engagement ring. They are way too soft. Add a yellow diamond halo you are going to make it look like a cocktail ring. Not an engagement ring.

B) I know your girl said she wants a halo but did she pick an opal as the center stone?

C) And I strongly suggest you stick to white diamonds for the halo. And no, with the yellow gold it won't be distracting or cluttered.

You aren't the first guy and you won't be the last to get unwisely creative and carried away with an engagement ring design. I don't care if your lady wants or surprise or you do. Either way, it's irrelevant at this point. Show her the opal and the CAD with the yellow diamonds and make sure she loves it NOW.

Edited above.

 

[the_universe]

Also, I've kept quiet and haven't responded to your thread for a reason.

I don't think you should spend the kind of money you are spending on such a unique ring without making sure your lady will love it.

A) Opals are a terrible choice for an engagement ring. They are way to smart. Add a yellow diamond halo you are going to make it look like a cocktail ring. Not an engagement ring.

B) I know your girl said she wants a halo but did she pick an opal as the center stone?

C) And I strongly suggest you stick to white diamonds for the halo. And no, with the yellow gold it won't be distracting or cluttered.

You aren't the first guy and you won't be the last to get unwisely creative and carried away with an engagement ring design. I don't care if your lady wants or surprise or you do. Either way, it's irrelevant at this point. Show her the opal and the CAD with the yellow diamonds and make sure she loves it NOW.

I appreciate your candid reply thanks and I value your input. I have shown her the stone she loves it. Black Opals are her favorite stone and she told me she wanted one for her engagement ring. She also wants a Halo. Its a challenge that Im still not prepared to give up on it at this point; you may very well be right though. But what am I to do? Not even try to give my girl the ring she wants?

Even though A lot of opal rings I see are done with low quality opals and clunky metal work I still think it can be done right. Call me crazy but when I look at a ring such as this (by Steven Kirsch), its not hard for me to imagine a black opal (with prominent flashes of reds and yellows such as the one I have) as a center stone with the dual claw prongs and a beautiful yellow diamond halo on yellow gold around it (not including taking away the white diamond halo). Given this is different pave style than what is shown in my CAD. I have opened dialogue with Steven and he has been giving me some input too.

 

[chrono]

I'm confused; are you going with Steven or staying with your local bench?

 

[the_universe]

I'm confused; are you going with Steven or staying with your local bench?

well I have contacted many of the jewelers on this site (not just Steve). So they are all a consideration at this point. They have given me some great input and couple of them seem really excited about working with something as exotic as a rolling red flash black opal. A lot will depend on what my local jeweler says when I talk to him later. Its going to come down to the confidence I feel in my local guy.

I already have confidence with Steve and all the other jewelers on this forum so thats a non-issue. They are all more expensive though.

 

[momhappy]

I have posted in your other thread and I have to agree with Gypsy here (on all points). I realize that your GF likes/wants an opal, but is she aware of their delicate nature? We all have wants/desires, but that doesn't always mean that those wants/desires are practical enough to follow through with. I think that your opal would be lovely as a right-hand ring and since she loves halos, how about customizing a diamond halo E-ring for her? IMO, here are simply far too many uncertainties to proceed with your current ring design (choosing the opal as an everyday stone, not knowing how yellow diamonds will look when paired with the opal, etc.). This is (theoretically) a forever ring, so it's not something that you want to gamble with.

 

[Asscherhalo_lover]

I'm confused; are you going with Steven or staying with your local bench?

well I have contacted many of the jewelers on this site (not just Steve). So they are all a consideration at this point. They have given me some great input and couple of them seem really excited about working with something as exotic as a rolling red flash black opal. A lot will depend on what my local jeweler says when I talk to him later. Its going to come down to the confidence I feel in my local guy.

I already have confidence with Steve and all the other jewelers on this forum so thats a non-issue. They are all more expensive though.

Honestly I would not go with a local jeweler for this level of work. You have been looking at pictures of ring settings done by pave masters and I have not seen a single person on this board who looks at pictures of pave masters been happy with "local" work.

When it comes to bespoke jewelry you get what you pay for.

 

[Gypsy]

Ok. So she wants the opal. I would make sure she understands that an opal is not a 24/7 ring. And that she is okay with having to baby it.

I would not be worried about good quality pave as much as I am about the softness of the opal.

That said, if after she is informed of the wear restrictions, she still wants the opal as an engagement ring, then proceed. I would still do a white halo, personnaly.

And yes, Steven will cost more. But it will be worth the peace of mind.

 

[Gypsy]

Here's a black opal in a yellow gold setting with a white diamond halo: http://www.rubylane.com/item/582712-TL000001624/Vintage-14K-Yellow-Gold-Australian-Black

And here are some pictures for you. The first one is the most important. It has yellow diamonds and white diamonds. See how the white diamonds bring the center stone to life? The yellow stones... not so much.

 

[Gypsy]

I like this first one. I love the tsavorite (green stone) 'stations' at north/south/east/west. If you want something other than a just a white halo, this might be an option.

 

[Gypsy]

Please see the pendant below in these pics. Which pairs yellow diamonds with a black opal. See again, how the yellow diamonds do not really compliment the stone? It's just not a good combo. White diamonds provide contrast and brightness. I REALLY don't think that yellow diamonds or a yellow halo is a good idea UNLESS she decides she loves it.

 

[Gypsy]

Some more.

 

[FrekeChild]

I hope you notice in ALL of the pictures posted above, that the prongs holding the opals are thick and numerous. THERE IS A REASON FOR THAT.

 

[momhappy]

Wow, great pics, gypsy.
The yellow diamonds just don't do those opals any favors, IMO - in fact, they almost cheapen the overall look.

 

[EvangelineG]

Another one here who agrees with Gypsy completely. If you would like accent stones for the ring other than white diamond, blue sapphire or tsavs would look much better than yellow diamonds IMO.

Also double claw prongs are a very elegant "high end" look. As Gyspsy said not many jewelers can execute them properly, so when they are present and done well they can elevate the whole look. But it is a matter of taste. If you don't like them, you don't like them.

 

[chrono]

I noticed that even though white diamonds are used for the halo, most of the settings are yellow gold, which adds more interest and contrast.

 

[Circe]

Great examples, Gypsy! Yellow gold & white diamonds aren't distracting together, IMO, whereas yellow gold & yellow diamonds are more often than not ... unless they're tiny, yellow diamonds frequently stand out from yellow gold. White is white, but there are a thousand shades of yellow, and between the different alloys of gold and the different hues & tones that you could get in your diamonds ... it's a gamble.

 

[the_universe]

with all due respect, those yellow diamonds that gypsy linked look awfully dull to me (assuming they are diamonds). Also the opals in those pics look nothing like mine. Completely different colors and quality.

I still think yellow gold looks much better with opal. Especially when the opals have lots of red (which the dominant color on the one I have as well). My uncle is a jeweler and opal is his favorite stone. he wears his opal ring every day for decades without any problems. So its not too soft for him and hes very outdoorsy and hands on (definitely doesnt baby his jewelry). There is a big difference in the durability of the opal depending on where its mined from. Welo for example are really fragile and lightning ridge opal is much more durable. It makes a huge difference.

I also think there is a big discrepancy in what people consider "quality opal." Everyone has different taste. As for me, if its not 60%+ red and with dark body tone (n4 or lower) with lots of color movement then Im not interested. Maybe im ignorant, maybe I dont know opal as well as you guys, but I like what I like. These blue green moss pattern opals just dont do it for me even if they are considered good quality. I also find these settings unappealing. I think the colors fight and the settings arent elegant looking and look clunky to me. I am not trying to offend anyone. This is just my opinion. I truly appreciate all the feedback I have gotten even if I dont agree with all of it.