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Hi Adrienne,
Have you seen this? It might help. http://journal.pricescope.com/Articles/47/1/An-Overview-Of-Common-Alloys-Used-In-Jewelry.aspx There are threads on palladium also, which, I think, is newer for some jewelers to carry. From what I''ve heard, it''s a good alternative to platinum. It seems as though many more people prefer platinum though. It is pricey right now however. |
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Yes, I have seen that link and it is very informative - but it only mentions 18K white gold alloys which will require re-plating, and I have heard that there are alloys now that will not require re-plating. If that is true, I might want to go with white gold. It kind of seems like the best of both worlds...so I don''t know if it''s really true!
- Adrienne |
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Two of them are 18K Palladium WG and Stuller''s X-1, which is 14K. Palladium WG is hypoallergenic but not as white as the majority of our clients prefer. This is why we rhodium-plate our palladium WG. Some manufacturers do not. Here is a comparison between 18K yellow gold, rhodium-plated WG and unplated palladium WG. No WG alloy is as white as rhodium plating. 14K alloys (58% gold) can look ''whiter'' than 18K alloys (75% gold) since more of the alloyed metal is used, giving greater whiteness. Stuller''s new X-1 is 14K and has great whiteness; close to the whiteness of .950 platinum alloys. The caution is that it is a high nickel alloy (though test samples have met current EU requirements for nickel release rates), and previous generations of high nickel gold alloys have had issues such as porosity, brittleness and susceptability to stress corrosion cracking, particularly the prongs. Stuller says there are additives in X-1 to reduce these problems. We''re watching this product with interest. |
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If I was having a White gold peice made it would likely be x-1.
The head of my wifey2b''s ring are made of it as well as a ring a friend of mine has and they have held up very well. But frankly to me white gold is a contradiction in terms so while I would use it for heads I wouldn''t use it for bands/shanks. |
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I don''t know if this is a concern for you, but I knew I''d be having local jewelers resize my ring and do any other work if needed. That''s why I decided on your basic white gold with nickel for my wg pieces. If other formulas become more common place, I''d go with that. But I''m one of those people who won''t buy anything without obsessing over its longevity.
For low maintenance, I''d go with plat. I can''t even be bothered to take off my wedding ring while showering, much less take it to be polished, and plat is great for that. Scratches on gold bother me more than patina. |
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correct me if I''m wrong - but isn''t rhodium plating whiter than platinum as well? I could swear I''ve read that some rhod plate their plat to keep the polish longer and that it is eversoslightly whiter. |
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Yes. Only silver is whiter. Rhodium plating is slightly whiter than the platinum alloys, but not enough to write home about imo. Plat-iridium is whitest of common platinum alloys, but the differences between it and Pt950/Ru, for instance, are almost indistinguishable unless cleaned, polished and set right next to each other in suitable light. Mix up identical rings and it will take you some doing to separate them.
Example: Pt950/Ir, Pt950/Ru, Pt950/Co After some wear they are indistinguishable. |