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I bought a small sapphire....now what to do next???

TheCollector

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 17, 2015
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24
Hello All...I was browsing online and came across a small 7x5mm oval sapphire. It was very pretty and I fell in love with it, so I bought it without much of a plan. After some though, I think I would like to mount it on a diamond halo ring. And now I have sooooo many questions:

1. I came across something called "Easy Mount", but it's kind of gimmicky, so I stayed away. Is this actually a viable option???
2. I also thought about buying a setting from Blue Nile or James Allen, then have a local jeweler set it. Is this cost efficient?
3. Can I send the stone to BN or JA and have them set it?
4. How much should I budget for such a halo setting(maybe in 18K white gold)?
5. And how much do I pay for a jewel setter to set this?

Am I about to fall into a money black hole???? what have I done????
 

Michael_E

Brilliant_Rock
Trade
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Nov 19, 2003
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1. Easy Mounts have seats which are pre-cut, but the seller still recommends using their special pliers to keep from over pushing the prongs. Still not so easy if you don't have the pliers, good magnifying glasses and some method of finishing up the prong tips, (files, rubberized abrasives and polishing equipment). Yes, they are viable if you have some other tools and a bit of experience.

2. Call your local jewelers and ask them. Your local independent jeweler can always beat the prices for metalwork and setting stones from nearly any quality internet seller, so look at their work and ask what they can do.

3. Call and ask.

4. It all depends on what you want. The metal work in 18K will cost from $800 to $1800 or more depending on if it is a commercial or custom setting. The cost for diamonds in the halo and setting are variable depending on quality, size and number. Their are deals to be had, but one has to ask the people doing the making in order to find them. For instance, many jewelers keep a little hoard of good to great melee from piece that were traded in and the metal scrapped. Using these melee can let them make you a great deal. Do you have scrap pieces that you can trade? This too can be a great deal for you, as the scrap value can offset the cost of new metal, diamonds or labor. Ask.

5. Setting the sapphire is less than $100 in most markets. If you ask around and find a good bench person who's willing to work with you it could be as low as $0. Ask.


You're only falling into a money pit if you don't ask and just accept what one seller tells you. Honesty beats sales hype with this sorts of thing, so talk around and find someone who you can work with.
 

PieAreSquared

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Dec 18, 2014
Messages
235
TheCollector|1439840891|3915714 said:
Hello All...I was browsing online and came across a small 7x5mm oval sapphire. It was very pretty and I fell in love with it, so I bought it without much of a plan. After some though, I think I would like to mount it on a diamond halo ring. And now I have sooooo many questions:

1. I came across something called "Easy Mount", but it's kind of gimmicky, so I stayed away. Is this actually a viable option???
2. I also thought about buying a setting from Blue Nile or James Allen, then have a local jeweler set it. Is this cost efficient?
3. Can I send the stone to BN or JA and have them set it?
4. How much should I budget for such a halo setting(maybe in 18K white gold)?
5. And how much do I pay for a jewel setter to set this?

Am I about to fall into a money black hole???? what have I done????


Congratulations and welcome to the world of colored gems!
You've already come out on top for sourcing your stone first!
It is also a calibrated size that will fit in a pre-made setting, super!

Ditto on the recommendation to shop around.

A word of advice from experience, if you take it to some local jewelers for estimates to put it in a setting, let them know it is a stone with "sentimental value" to you. Do NOT say, "hey I found this on the internet and just need you to set it for me", which ...usually does not go over well. :doh:

Personally I would not try to buy a mounting from one place and take it to another to set it. If you have it set at the same place that supplies the mounting, they can make a little profit on the jewelry, so they should be happy, right? Of course, don't be surprised if they try to sell you a "better" stone (theirs, of course).

They may ask you to sign a waiver for setting a stone that is not theirs. This is standard practice.
Some jewelers will not set customer's stones at all.

Take your time and have fun!
 

TheCollector

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 17, 2015
Messages
24
Thanks for your advice Michael_E.

I just talked to James Allen and they said they can set the stone for $200. But they seemed hesitant when I ask about the specs of the stones of the setting I chose. They just said it's "top quality"....but I asked about treatments and they weren't sure. When I asked about the diamonds, they said it is VS to SI. I said that's a wide range and she disagreed, then continued to say it's not a big difference. They did not give me a lot of confidence. This is the setting I was asking about: http://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/side-stones/vintage-round-diamond-and-marquise-sapphire-engagement-ring-item-49746

I am in Toronto, so I walked into Birks (Sort of like Canadian Tiffany) and they too can set a stone, and a halo ring would be about $1700 in 18k white gold. That actually seemed reasonable to me. But is it???

I am going to see more local places soon to do further comparison. :))
 

TheCollector

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 17, 2015
Messages
24
Hi PieAreSquared. That's great advice! I should tell them about the sentimental value of the stone instead.

I am actually leaning towards buying a setting locally and have them set it too. Mailing the stone to an online vendor seemed too complicated. However, if I see any nice semi-mount halo settings online....I would consider buying it or ask the local jeweler about it. I am just looking for a halo mount that's sort of like this: http://www.maisonbirks.com/en/bague-sapphire-et-diamants-3502

This is where it troubles me....how do I find a reliable local jeweler In Toronto that's is not the overpriced b&m like Birks? I looked for some threads on PS but it doesn't seem like we have a lot of recommendations....
 

ennui

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Feb 28, 2014
Messages
995
TheCollector, look for a goldsmith and/or a bench jeweler. Find people who do their own work, in-house. Those shops are usually small and family-owned.

Also, if it were me, I'd have the stone appraised before I spend a lot of money on a setting.
 

chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 22, 2004
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38,364
1. I came across something called "Easy Mount", but it's kind of gimmicky, so I stayed away. Is this actually a viable option???
Not recommended, as explained by M.E.

2. I also thought about buying a setting from Blue Nile or James Allen, then have a local jeweler set it. Is this cost efficient?
Not necessarily so. BN will not sell the setting separately. Actually, Etsy might be a good option. Don't forget the cost of shipping both ways and postal insurance.

4. How much should I budget for such a halo setting(maybe in 18K white gold)?
Depends on the workmanship. It can be anywhere from $1K to $3K.

5. And how much do I pay for a jewel setter to set this?
Will vary from shop to shop. Some places can do it for $50, others will charge $100. More importantly, who is skilled enough with setting coloured stones so that they do not damage your stone!
 

Stone Hunter

Ideal_Rock
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May 12, 2006
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6,487
First off RELAX this is supposed to be fun! I understand your trepidation.

I found a local jeweler that I buy settings through and have my stones set by them. They make some money off of the setting and are happy to work with me. I found them by asking an acquaintance with really nice jewelry where she had jewelry repairs done. So check out the people around you and talk to the ones with nice jewelry. I also looked at some of his custom work before handing over my inexpensive lovingly purchased internet stones. It has been a very reasonably priced and good fun.

Now actually picking out a setting that just takes me forever and I usually ask for PS help.
 

TheCollector

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 17, 2015
Messages
24
Both Ennui and Chrono talked about appraisals and damages to the stone.
As a newbie, I wonder if stones are often damaged when they are set? I didn't really think about this, so thanks for bringing this up!!
I'm assuming I'll need to buy insurance as well after the appraisal. My stone was not very expensive, so maybe it's not really worth it? hmmm......
 

TheCollector

Rough_Rock
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Aug 17, 2015
Messages
24
And thank you Stone Hunter for your kind words. :) You are right...it's supposed to be fun. I sorta panicked a little because this is all new to me. So far, it's been very exciting!!! I found a jewellery repairer via a contact recently. I am not sure if she does good work, but she fixed a pair of pearl earrings for a friend. I was planning to ask her about the process and pricing soon. Will see....fingers crossed.
 

TheCollector

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 17, 2015
Messages
24
OMG indigoblue! That is exactly the style of setting that I am looking for, except I wanted it in white gold or platinum. It's such a good price too. It's just too bad it's in yellow gold. Bummer. Thanks for looking for me though. It's very nice of you. :)
 

indigoblue

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Dec 7, 2012
Messages
344
TheCollector|1440941643|3921128 said:
OMG indigoblue! That is exactly the style of setting that I am looking for, except I wanted it in white gold or platinum. It's such a good price too. It's just too bad it's in yellow gold. Bummer. Thanks for looking for me though. It's very nice of you. :)
No problem. I've actually had my eye on it for a while and might just get it for myself. It's SO close to what I really want. If it just had a split shank...
 

TheCollector

Rough_Rock
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I wouldn't compromise if I were you... you'll find your split shank. :)
 

chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Sapphire are generally all right although I've had a 2 spinels damaged. Fortunately, both were repaired to my satisfaction, one by the vendor and the other was sent back to the original lapidary. Most benches are used to setting diamonds which can take more abuse and pressure (applied to the prongs). Coloured stones need "softer" hands. If the stone isn't expensive, it is up to you to decide whether insurance is necessary. Most of my CS are irreplaceable so insurance feels useless. Instead, I am very cautious about who I send my stones to.
 

drruby

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Aug 31, 2015
Messages
165
TheCollector|1440971291|3921329 said:
I finally took some pictures of my little gem. It's a medium blue tiny thing.

Sounds like one of my ex wives

1 Ct Stone TINY

haha
 

MollyMalone

Ideal_Rock
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Jun 2, 2013
Messages
3,413
Have no idea why Dr. Ruby thought his pointless, obnoxious comment was worthy of posting. It's a sweet stone that I predict will bring you pleasure in the years ahead.

FYI Blue Nile will sell most of its non-designer settings solo, but will not set an outside stone; james Allen will set outside stones, including sapphires, and JA will make the mounting -- if it's one of their own, not, e.g., a Danov -- especially for your stone; they won't begin the work until they have your stone in hand, so they can be sure of the measurements (not unusual for colored stones to be deeper than diamonds of the same face-up measurements)

Adiamor used to be perfectly decent, if not wowy, & those listings indicate the melee is better than the commercial grade stones that Zales. Jareds, and the like use. But I have not seen any of their work in a fair number of years.

It would be less hassle to have a local jeweler handle the entire project for you. Perhaps start a new thread soliciting Toronto-area recommendations & experiences? And include some pics of styles you are considering, as that will likely have a bearing on suggestiins.
 

indigoblue

Shiny_Rock
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Dec 7, 2012
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344
TheCollector|1440970833|3921324 said:
I wouldn't compromise if I were you... you'll find your split shank. :)

I must have scared the seller. After sending her a message through LT asking about the setting, the listing disappeared without a trace. I don't even remember the name of the seller.
 

TheCollector

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 17, 2015
Messages
24
That's funny, indigoblue. I noticed it disappeared as well. I thought it vanished because you bought it. I guess it wasn't meant to be.
 

TheCollector

Rough_Rock
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Aug 17, 2015
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Good idea MollyMalone. Will start another thread.
 

Stone Hunter

Ideal_Rock
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TheCollector|1440941414|3921126 said:
And thank you Stone Hunter for your kind words. :) You are right...it's supposed to be fun. I sorta panicked a little because this is all new to me. So far, it's been very exciting!!! I found a jewellery repairer via a contact recently. I am not sure if she does good work, but she fixed a pair of pearl earrings for a friend. I was planning to ask her about the process and pricing soon. Will see....fingers crossed.

You're welcome, we are in this together with our 7 x 5 sapphires!

Sounds like a good plan. I worried the whole time my stone was being set, about it getting damaged. Everything worked out fine and I enjoy wearing the ring. It's such an involved process finding a stone and setting it. BUT it's worth it, I haven't seen anything like my ring at the mall. :bigsmile:

ETA: The jeweler will need to check the depth of your stone...my new stone is very deep and it won't fit in several settings I liked. So I've really searched and compared many many settings.
 

lilmosun

Ideal_Rock
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2,394
+1 on finding a good local jeweler (avoid chains)

- Given this is your first project, you can see how the stone looks in various settings...lots of times I don't know what I really want until I see it. I love trying my loose stones in different settings until I find something a great match.
- Now that you've fallen into the "hole", developing a relationship with a good local bench is invaluable should this not be your last project (it's addictive).

I think your sapphire is definitely a nice size and stones look much larger once set. I was a big ring person before I came here but now some of my go to rings, including two blue sapphires, have center stones even smaller.

Can't wait to see what you finally decide!
 

MollyMalone

Ideal_Rock
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Jun 2, 2013
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For you -- a round-up of Toronto jewelers previously suggested by veteran PSer CharmyPoo, who has very high standards (and enviable, custom-made rings ;)) ):
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...gagement-ring-toronto-canada.191482/#p3548508

Just make sure that any of these have more than fleeting experience with colored stones, as I think diamonds have been the focus of CharmyPoo and her circle of Toronto-area friends-acquaintances.
 

minousbijoux

Super_Ideal_Rock
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12,804
Good luck, TC - sounds like you are about to embark on some daunting fun. :))
 

TheCollector

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 17, 2015
Messages
24
My latest news - I met up with a local jeweler and she did a drawing and gave me a quote for my delicate halo ring. It seems like their shop does all sorts of jewelry, so they did not seem worried about setting a colored stone. Their confidence made me very comfortable. Here's the quote:

  • 14 1pt stones for the halo
    6 2pt side stones for the shank
    The quote was $1650USD for 18K gold, and $2025USD for platinum.
z

My first instinct was that this is very reasonable...but I pose this to you who have more experience - is it reasonable???
I sort of want to just go with them because they seemed nice and professional, but I think I should still shop around. :saint:
 

TheCollector

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 17, 2015
Messages
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Great list MollyMalone. I shall look at CharmyPoo's experience and investigate. Thanks!

What should I actually ask to see if they are capable of setting coloured stones?
For my first meeting with a jeweler, I just kind of asked if they have done it and if they are comfortable with it. And looking back, I think it was a rather weak question, because no jeweler would confess about their lack of experience if they want the business. :shifty:
 

Acinom

Super_Ideal_Rock
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May 15, 2013
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10,535
Ask if the jewellers' insurance covers possible damage to the stone.

Enjoy having your stone set. Your stone has such a beautiful shape and color :wavey:
 

TheCollector

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 17, 2015
Messages
24
Hey...thanks for sharing the link regarding the difference between single cut and full cut. From the descriptions, it's difficult to say which one to prefer. I wished there were some pictures for a side by side comparison, but I guess we don't have that. Based purely from words, I guess I value the sparkle more than the "blur" effect...so maybe full cut is for me. :) Thanks for sharing nonetheless.
 
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