Homemade Engagement Ring Project

[Jovid]

I know a homemade engagement ring has been done in the past, but the idea of walking into a jewelry store and buying an engagement ring just does not excite me. So, that being said... I have done some research over the past few months and I am going to try my hand at some garage investment casting.

I figure this is a great place to document the process and get constructive feedback, so lets get started...

I started with some sketching (a lot of sketching) and then moved into CAD. This took a lot longer than I had expected. Hopefully this will not be indicative of the entire project. I was forcing myself to learn a new CAD software rather than using what I am most proficient with but all in all it was a fun and worthwhile experience.

Here are a few photos of the CAD models






Once I had something I was happy with, I pumped out a couple RP parts from a Zcorp printer, purrrrty cool.









The detail in these prints is not spectacular, but I wanted to get a better feel for scale and fit since I am obviously not qualified to do something like this

If anyone has any comments or suggestions, feel free to chime in!

Thanks,
Jovid

 

[Niel]

What metal will this be in?
Is this design one she picked out or one you just found easy to render?

 

[Jovid]

Niel,

I chose this design based on her comments on other rings and what I hope is a solid sense and understanding of her taste and style (i'm probably 100% wrong )

The ring will be an 18k white gold alloy.

 

[Niel]

Niel,

I chose this design based on her comments on other rings and what I hope is a solid sense and understanding of her taste and style (i'm probably 100% wrong )

The ring will be an 18k white gold alloy.

Oh good, I just wanted to make sure that style choice was deliberate, not made from necessity.

This is a very sweet idea

 

[maccers]

Do you already have the stone? So you know what measurements to make the head?

 

[Jovid]

Do you already have the stone? So you know what measurements to make the head?

Yes, I purchased the stone prior to designing the setting (about 2 months ago). The proportions of the band and prongs were created around the stone I purchased.

the stone is a 0.9ct round cut - 'H' in color if I remember correctly and 'VVS' clarity.

 

[chrono]

Are you planning to hammer out a ring or cast it? I would presume from the CAD details that it would be cast, therefore I'm wondering if you are making the mold and would be melting the gold and etc? If so, you have to watch out for porosity when casting. Also, make the prongs extra long so that you have room for error when you attempt to set the stone. It is easier to file down long prongs rather than have insufficient length to make up for any boo-boos.
http://www.jckonline.com/article/293893-Practical_Stone_Setting_Part_V_Beginning_Prong_Setting.php

 

[Jovid]

Are you planning to hammer out a ring or cast it? I would presume from the CAD details that it would be cast, therefore I'm wondering if you are making the mold and would be melting the gold and etc? If so, you have to watch out for porosity when casting. Also, make the prongs extra long so that you have room for error when you attempt to set the stone. It is easier to file down long prongs rather than have insufficient length to make up for any boo-boos.
http://www.jckonline.com/article/293893-Practical_Stone_Setting_Part_V_Beginning_Prong_Setting.php

That's a very good point, I DO suspect I'll have to do some filing once I set the stone.

I just measured one of my printed parts and I have a little over 1mm from the girdle of the diamond to the top of the prongs. my calipers read 1.3mm but i'm not sure how much of that is due to the low resolution on the Rapid Prototype part. I'll measure my cad model at some point today.

I hadn't considered boo boo's when bending the prongs over the stone... care to elaborate on what kind of issues I may run into or should try to avoid? I guess I'm just an optimist and plan for everything to go smooooothly

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[Rhea]

Could you make the setting and have someone else set your diamond? I would think that's where the most potential to go wrong would be and I'd want someone who is very skilled to get it tight but not chip the stone.

 

[Jovid]

Could you make the setting and have someone else set your diamond? I would think that's where the most potential to go wrong would be and I'd want someone who is very skilled to get it tight but not chip the stone.

Rhea, I've considered that and I will probably insure it the second I finish building it. It's the one part that I have considered having done by someone who knows what they are doing... but then again, I feel pretty confident that if I notch the prongs properly and bend them over the stone, it would be quite the epic escape.

 

[Niel]

Could you make the setting and have someone else set your diamond? I would think that's where the most potential to go wrong would be and I'd want someone who is very skilled to get it tight but not chip the stone.

+1!

 

[Rhea]

Could you make the setting and have someone else set your diamond? I would think that's where the most potential to go wrong would be and I'd want someone who is very skilled to get it tight but not chip the stone.

Rhea, I've considered that and I will probably insure it the second I finish building it. It's the one part that I have considered having done by someone who knows what they are doing... but then again, I feel pretty confident that if I notch the prongs properly and bend them over the stone, it would be quite the epic escape.

I'd make sure that it's explicitly written into your policy if you can. Insurance is crazy stuff. I'm always reminded of the time I travelled to the US and bought travel insurance. Paid extra to be covered in the US. Paid extra for winter sports cover, which is billed as coverage for any sport. I was at the airport and decided to just call and make sure I was covered for my skydive, something I've done a few times before when living in the US. I wasn't. And the underwriters wouldn't approve it either as it's just too risky.

Your insurance may say your covered to have a loose diamond set. Until they find out it's being set by you. Insurers avoid risk and setting your own diamond is risky.

 

[VRBeauty]

Several years ago, "undercover99" decided to make a homemade engagement ring for his fiance, and documented the process (and got expert feedback) here on PS. If you haven't already done so, you might want to check out his thread:

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/homemade-e-ring-2mm-ok-what-about-prongs.168304/

The finished product showcased here: https://www.pricescope.com/communit...-finally-done-1-53ct-asscher-2mm-band.169465/

I like your comfort-fit band design, by the way!

 

[Jovid]

Ahhhh yes.. I suspected I was not the first to do this. It seems like he did a pretty good job looking at the finished product. I hope mine goes as smoothly as his did

 

[Jovid]

Just wondering if any of you with experience may have suggestions on materials and brands..

I have been looking at using Freeman for almost everything mold and wax related.. they seem to have been around for a few good years

I will be needing the following :

- Machinable wax
- Injection molding wax pellets or chips
- Silicone mold rubber
- possibly mold release

Thanks to everyone who has been helping out thus far!

 

[Jovid]

Quick update here... I've discovered a couple bonehead mistakes

mistake #1

Once I cast this, I'll need to create the bearings in the prongs (notches for the stone to rest in) using a setting bur... I was well aware I would have to do this, but what I had overlooked is how much lower the stone will sit when the bearings are cut into the prongs. Although this distance is small (roughly .25mm), I am concerned that the stone will appear to sit too low in the setting.. especially with the cathedral type band I've designed.

Mistake #2

Before casting the real deal, I had planned to do some finishing work to the waxes once I injection mold them, such as filing and sanding. What I forgot to account for is the amount of material I will be removing when I do this. I am most concerned about the prongs being about 1mm. Once I sand those a bit, I could be well below 1mm and too thin for a secure setting on a pricey chunk of shiny rock.

I'm going play with the CAD file tonight and see what I can do to remedy these sneaky issues.

I also had a quick question about cutting a positive mold halve. Is aluminum a suitable alternative to machinable wax? I plan to pour silicone rubber molds on the aluminum to create the 2 negative mold halves. My reasoning is far from complex, I just want to have a cool looking master that will last forever.

 

[chrono]

I cannot advise you about the prong thickness but it is actually a good idea to have the diamond sit as low as possible in the setting (as long as the culet is still slightly above the bottom of the basket). Low set means that there is less chance of the diamond getting snagged on clothes, less spinning and less chance of getting banged around. Also note that the prongs will also be "pushed" in a little from its original position.

You may want to have this shifted to Rocky Talky where traffic volume is greater and there is more bench presence.

 

[Jovid]

I cannot advise you about the prong thickness but it is actually a good idea to have the diamond sit as low as possible in the setting (as long as the culet is still slightly above the bottom of the basket). Low set means that there is less chance of the diamond getting snagged on clothes, less spinning and less chance of getting banged around. Also note that the prongs will also be "pushed" in a little from its original position.

You may want to have this shifted to Rocky Talky where traffic volume is greater and there is more bench presence.

Chrono, thanks for the advice. This thread has been moved over to Rocky Talky by an administrator.

 

[Texas Leaguer]

Could you make the setting and have someone else set your diamond? I would think that's where the most potential to go wrong would be and I'd want someone who is very skilled to get it tight but not chip the stone.

Rhea, I've considered that and I will probably insure it the second I finish building it. It's the one part that I have considered having done by someone who knows what they are doing... but then again, I feel pretty confident that if I notch the prongs properly and bend them over the stone, it would be quite the epic escape.

I love the idea of you doing this from start to finish. What a special piece it will be and a great story to tell!
I do think the actual setting of the stone is critical for both security and aesthetics. Consider approaching a bench jeweler in the area with your project and explore the option of paying him a "consulting fee" to have you come in and do the work but under his careful guidance. You may have trouble finding someone to do this because it is pretty much unprecedented, but if you explain that you intend to do it yourself anyway, maybe you could find a jeweler intrigued and impressed enough that they would want to work with you on it.
Good luck!

 

[denverappraiser]

Most major cities have a jewelers supply house that sells the tools for polishing, setting, and so on. You can also get advice from the sales people about what tools you need for the task at hand. Cutting the seats (that's the notch you describe to hold the edge of the stone) is trickier than it looks but it's not rocket science either if you're decently good at this sort of thing. Some of these places have a shop where you can rent time and some even teach classes. Google 'silversmithing supplies' and your town.

Practice setting a few Cubic Zirconias in throw away rings first.

To the extent that you can, do all of your polishing and finishing work FIRST, before you set the stone. This especially applies to the prong area. As with the above, a bit of practice on throw away pieces will help. Cast up a mock up ring, polish it, set a CZ in it (you can get them at the above mentioned jewelers supply places) and see how you do.

 

[Jovid]

Thanks for all of the advice here guys. I have reached out to a professional jeweler at a place here in Phoenix called "House of Diamonds" who goes through this process quite often in his shop. He was quite excited about the project himself and was very willing to offer up any advice and even a little bit of hands on teaching if needed. Himself and a few others at the shop have been more approachable and welcoming than I could have ever imagined. Big thanks to those guys as well as everyone here who has offered up advice and guidance

However, the goal all along was to do as much as I possibly can on my own. So, I am going to give it my best effort and see what I come up with. I will, at the very least, take the ring in to Rick (the said Jeweler) at the end of the process and have him inspect the stone setting.

I do plan to build some rubber molds and inject a bunch of wax parts for practice casts from scrap material. That will certainly help me figure out the finishing process before I move on to the precious metals.

Most major cities have a jewelers supply house that sells the tools for polishing, setting, and so on. You can also get advice from the sales people about what tools you need for the task at hand. Cutting the seats (that's the notch you describe to hold the edge of the stone) is trickier than it looks but it's not rocket science either if you're decently good at this sort of thing. Some of these places have a shop where you can rent time and some even teach classes. Google 'silversmithing supplies' and your town.

Practice setting a few Cubic Zirconias in throw away rings first.

To the extent that you can, do all of your polishing and finishing work FIRST, before you set the stone. This especially applies to the prong area. As with the above, a bit of practice on throw away pieces will help. Cast up a mock up ring, polish it, set a CZ in it (you can get them at the above mentioned jewelers supply places) and see how you do.

This is a fantastic idea... I had planned to practice casting and finishing, but practicing the actual setting portion had never crossed my mind. It makes a ton of sense. I will definitely see if I can find some CZ stones around the same size and practice cutting the seats, setting, and finishing the end piece. Thank you DenverAppraiser!

I just wonder what would be the kind of stone are you going to put on that ring? It makes me excited about the result of this ring. Good luck to you my brother!

The stone is a very modest and simple round cut diamond. its just under 1ct.

 

[partgypsy]

Impressive, very cool, though I would be too scared the set the actual stone! Many CADs i've seen, the prongs look thicker and longer than the ones in your model, maybe to account for polishing and such.

 

[Jovid]

Impressive, very cool, though I would be too scared the set the actual stone! Many CADs i've seen, the prongs look thicker and longer than the ones in your model, maybe to account for polishing and such.

Yeah, I am going to work on beefing those up a bit. I think they are a bit on the skinny side myself...

 

[Skhii]

Any updates, Jovid? We would love hear what you decided and see the results!