Thoughts on this setting?

[Truthstar]

For a tourmaline sized 11x8.8x6. I'm not convinced the engraving location is proper so will change this.

 

[T L]

Is this going to be a man's ring?

 

[Truthstar]

Yep. Too feminine looking?

 

[T L]

Yep. Too feminine looking?

No, quite the opposite. Most people that post here are ladies, so I wanted to double check. It's a very masculine ring.

 

[chrono]

No issues with the design. The grooved line will only be on one side of the shank?

 

[Truthstar]

Couple concerns I have:

- Placement of the engraving. Perhaps moving horizontally along the indentation and keeping it small font on both sides like: IV.XXII.(Stone) MMXI.
- Bridge; thinking maybe 2 rounded bars on both sides instead of a single thin bridge.
-Cost. Its really pricey. 18k at 12,5dwt. I checked online and the gold value is only 550 but I'm being charged way over..

 

[Truthstar]

Yes just one side. Below the groove lines and the two risers will be high polish, the rest will probably be slightly brushed.

 

[chrono]

I agree that having the text run horizontally will allow it to be smaller and less obtrusive. Also, I'm not sure switching the current bridge into 2 rounded bars will provide sufficient strength to support the stone in the setting. Do remember that you are also paying for the cost of the CAD work and workmanship (casting and finishing work, which is actually the most critical part of the ring process).

 

[T L]

The stone also seems to be sitting very high, and I worry about knocking those exposed edges into something. Tourmalines are prone to chipping easily. I know, been there, done that.

 

[chrono]

I think that's about as low as the tourmaline can be set in that setting unless the bench is willing to cut a seat into the support bar, the same way my asscher spinel is set. In general, the north and south sides of a ring is less prone to damage due to the natural movement of the hand with the exception of habitually keeping the hand in a more closed position, which exposes the north and south sides of the ring (and stone) to chipping.

 

[T L]

I think that's about as low as the tourmaline can be set in that setting unless the bench is willing to cut a seat into the support bar, the same way my asscher spinel is set.

Yes, it could be an optical illusion (looks to sit "high") since there's no traditional "basket" for the stone.

 

[Truthstar]

Thanks for the feedback.

I'm being quoted 2500, and although I'm sure cad and labor may be a talking point I find it hard to pay almost 2k over what its physically worth ..

 

[T L]

Not a bad price for all that gold, and for a new custom piece. Did they say how many grams this ring might weigh in the end? I paid $2K for a 14K gold custom setting, but like yours, it was a lot of gold.

 

[Truthstar]

Its 12.5 DWT. An online calculator valued it around 550

 

[T L]

Its 12.5 DWT. An online calculator valued it around 550

So the price seems right. You obviously have to pay for the workmanship, design, labor, so around 4 times the metal cost doesn't seem outrageous. I was quoted 8 to ten times the price for my metal cost, for the ring I made, at other jewelers, so shopping around a bit helped.