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Platinum ring from bullion

joe4444

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 27, 2014
Messages
5
If you already saw this in the Jewelry Pieces forum, sorry for the double post. I only got one reply there.


I hope this question has not already been asked. I searched the forums, but I only found topics relating to melting old settings or other jewelry, and I understand the problems in that situation.

I'd like to use a 1-oz platinum coin (99.95% pure; gift from my dad) and a 1.0 ct round diamond (my mom's) to make an engagement ring. Local jewelers only offer store credit for the coin, but I want this metal to be in the ring. If the jeweler would normally start with platinum grain, melt it, and cast it, then why not start with a pure platinum coin? That should eliminate the problems of solders, other metals in a setting's alloy, and the unknown purity issue. Perhaps the issue is that it needs to be 950 or 900 platinum, and the jewelers cannot make their own alloy by adding pure ruthenium?

Anyway, I've exhausted local jewelers, and many who I found online give me the same answer. There are some willing to work with my platinum, but I would also like a tension setting. Unfortunately, I have yet to find the overlap of a jeweler willing to use my platinum who can also make a tension setting. I'm hoping someone here can help me find one.

Thanks!
 

canvasback

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Aug 18, 2014
Messages
177
I cannot answer your question, but I do know that Kenny on here knows a lot about tension settings. Here's one of his posts on another topic.....

"We've had four tension settings made for diamonds.
Tension settings are made with special alloys and processes to ensure they hold the diamond safely and securely.
There are only 4 companies I'd trust my diamond to.

http://www.niessingshop.com/
http://www.stevenkretchmer.com/
http://www.gelinabaci.com/
http://www.boonerings.com/stone.htm

I believe I have listed them in descending order of price with the last one working only in titanium."


Hope this helps. Hopefully Kenny will chime in. :pray:
 

chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
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Apr 22, 2004
Messages
38,364
As posted in the other section of the forum, I would not untrust any local jeweller to create a tension setting for me. In addition, the right alloys have to be used, hence I do not foresee any bench willing to accept/use your platinum bullion.
 

denverappraiser

Ideal_Rock
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Jul 21, 2004
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9,150
Platinum is soft. Normally jewelry is alloyed with another metal, iridium, ruthenium or occasionally other things to make it more durable. With gold it's easy but with platinum this alloy process is difficult and, for example, can't be exposed to oxygen during the process or they screw it up. The solution is that the grain that jewelers is pre-alloyed by the refinery. I suppose they may be able to hire a refinery to do it, but I would expect this to be fairly expensive and it's most definitely an unusual request. You can ask and you might even be able to talk them into it but this is why they're resistant.

A tension setting this way is out of the question. To get the springiness to work right requires a special alloy that's proprietary to the manufacturers. There's no way they'll give it out and it's highly unlikely they'll mix up a small batch just for you.
 

Karl_K

Super_Ideal_Rock
Trade
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Aug 4, 2008
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14,634
denverappraiser|1414634376|3774785 said:
it's highly unlikely they'll mix up a small batch just for you.
What he said....
One once is not worth firing up the equipment and the time to do it.
They would work in much larger batches to make it worth while.
I could see them legitimately charging $500 to a grand to do it if they decided to do it at all.
 

joe4444

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 27, 2014
Messages
5
Okay, that makes a lot of sense. I thought alloying platinum wouldn't be mich more difficult than gold. It's too bad the local shops didn't explain that to me. Maybe their sales people just don't know those kinds of details about alloys.

The good news is Boone was already near the top of my list for titanium as an alternative.

Thank you for all the replies. I think I'll take the titanium route because I definitely cannot afford to buy new platinum. And my girlfriend might say NO if I spend too much on her ring haha
 

kenny

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Joined
Apr 30, 2005
Messages
33,225
joe4444|1414638954|3774808 said:
The good news is Boone was already near the top of my list for titanium as an alternative.

I've had four tension settings made.
One platinum Gelin Abaci.
Two Titanium Boonerings.
One Cobalt Chrome Boonerings.

The Titanium ring in the left in pic below is 5 years old; you can see it has darkened.
The ring on the right is Boonering's Cobalt Chrome alloy and was new when this pic was taken.

I'm not claiming that Titanium always tarnishes.
I'm no expert on alloys or on tension settings ... I just have a bit of experience.
Perhaps this Titanium ring was exposed to something in the workplace.
Perhaps it would be easy to polish away the tarnish; we haven't tried yet.

Bruce Boone says the Cobalt Chrome is the whitest metal he offers and I wanted that, though it adds $100 to the price compared to Titanium.



Here's a top view of Cobalt Chrome ring:

screen_shot_2014-10-29_at_8.png

screen_shot_2014-10-29_at_0.png
 

joe4444

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 27, 2014
Messages
5
Thanks for the photos and info, Kenny. I'm surprised your 5 year old ring turned that dark. I wonder if some finishes collect "grime" more than others. Those look like they are either brushed or the rough scratch finish. Is that right?
 
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