Halo cushion for a small finger, larger budget?

[fizgig]

Hi, everyone! I’ve been reading PS for the last few weeks, particularly about cushions, halos, and ASETs. I know there have been many threads on cushions lately and don’t want to make anyone repeat themselves. But I could use some broad-stroke advice and confirm some of my thinking, getting advice on a specific stone a bit later. I’m open to changing anything.

I was originally budgeting around $100k all in, but I haven’t figured out a worthwhile way to do (eg, not just handing it all to Cartier), so I might want to scale back. She’ll appreciate a good-looking ring but getting a D/IF won’t matter to her. My hope is to buy a diamond online and get a custom setting, and since people have spoken so highly of Victor Canera and I’m on the West Coast (SF), I thought I’d try him.

My girlfriend has a very small frame and a 4.5 finger, and I don’t want it to look excessively large on her, since she’ll wear it all of the time. While she’s quite stylish, she doesn’t know much about diamonds or rings and has hinted that I should handle this on my own. I think she’ll be enthusiastic no matter what, but I want to match her style, which is “interesting” rather than, say, a solitaire. She mentioned liking halo settings and “when it looks like two rings put together”, and her other jewelry tends towards Alexis Bittar and David Yurman. I've seen her wear a Yurman ring with a 7mmx7mm garnet which looks good, so I’m probably safe to go a bit bigger.

I’ve looked around a lot, and I think this style is perfect, though I might customize:
http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/engagement-rings/braided-shank-halo-solitaire

But I think a RB in my price range would stand off from her finger too much, so I was hoping for something lower-profile. The great cushion halos I’ve seen on PS have me leaning that way, but I’m open to other low-profile cuts. I’m not particular to the kind of cushion at this point.

So a few questions:

• What would you expect to get out of a $60k-$90k cushion cut other than size? Or do would I be buying imperceptible quality or an oversized stone at that point?
• I’ve seen discussions of Brellia and Brian Gavin’s cushions, but selection seems thin. Should be asking them to find something rather than just browsing?
• Given that the only specific request was for a halo and I’m worried about swamping her finger, I thought a thin micropave halo would work best. Does that seem like the right approach?

Some promising examples I’ve seen. Of course I’d love detailed opinions, but as I said, I’m mostly going for broad strokes, so please let me know if these are wildly inappropriate for the setting I have in mind, or if I’m missing something:
http://www.goodoldgold.com/diamond/11625/ (Signature modern 4ct)
http://www.goodoldgold.com/diamond/11559/ (Brellia 2.03ct)
http://www.brilliantlyengaged.com/3...-brilliant-cushion-cut-diamond-gid-24785.html
http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/d...3.070-j-vvs2-cushion-diamond-ags-104067040004
http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/d...2.091-f-vvs2-cushion-diamond-ags-104067040002

I’ve certainly appreciated all the passive advice I’ve received on this board so far and thank you in advance for any tips you can give me!

 

[Dizzie]

Hello fizgig,

I would refrain commenting on the cushions, as there are definitely people more knowledgeable on those.

However as I struggled imagining the flowy lines of the setting you prefer with the cushion stone, I thought about throwing in some rounds.
let me suggest a couple of round stones that would be among the best performing on the market. Also I have verified that both of them have less depth than 3 ct cushion you are considering:


2.35 F VS1 http://www.goodoldgold.com/diamond/11817/
2.22 D VVS1 http://www.highperformancediamonds.com/index.php?page=view-id-diamond-infinity-new&id=1098

As size is not your main criterion, I chose stones with high colour/clarity combo and noticeable but not overwhelming size. For sure, you could go larger by pushing those down, but I just do not know whether you would need that. HP stone has exceptional upgrade policy as well.

 

[Gypsy]

Of the two you posted. I would personally buy the 3 carat antique cut from BE or the 4 carat Signature Modern from GOG.

Why? If you are spending all that money, you should get 3 carats at least (in a cushion, in a round that's different). And both of them are fantastic stones. And while the J BGD stone is 3 carats. With your budget you should get MUCH higher color than a J, IMO. H or better definitely.

In fact, I think that the BE stone may be sold already. I'm pretty sure that one of our other posters has bought it.

But if it is available: It's a fantastic antique style that avoids a strong maltese cross under the table, which most antique style cushions have. And it's just flat out stunning.

The 4 carat is a great stone as well. And hopefully that one is available.

Here's the thing though.

I know you said she likes halos. SO I understand why you want to get one for her.

That particular halo though, I think would look best in a round.

 

[Gypsy]

Here is one of my friends rings. She has a similar finger size to you intended. Just for proportions:
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/3-14ct-omb-in-hand-forged-halo-setting-by-mark-at-erd.174860/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/3-14ct-omb-in-hand-forged-halo-setting-by-mark-at-erd.174860/[/URL]

 

[Gypsy]

What I'd put in that halo is this:
http://www.victorcanera.com/diamonds/915up2
or
http://www.victorcanera.com/diamonds/xpaamk

Why? It's more unique than a MRB. It's got the glorious old cut flower faceting. ANd it would look fantastic in the setting you have in mind.

 

[Gypsy]

If you DID want a MRB then... I'd go for this one: http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/diamonds/diamond-details/2.654-f-vs2-round-diamond-ags-104072854001


A round won't stick too high off her finger as long as you keep it a reasonable size under 3 carats. Even this one is only 5.5 mm deep.



The four carat Signature modern cushion you are looking at from GOG is 6mm deep.

And the BE 3 carat antique style is 5.8 mm deep.

So... if you keep the round to under 3 carats you will be fine.

 

[tyty333]

I like the BE 3 carat cushion or the GOG modern cushion.
That setting you picked is lovely but it looks like it is more
suited for a round stone. I'm thinking more split shank to
balance a larger stone if you go with a cushion.

 

[artdecolover71]

What a lucky girl! I love a big chunky stone with a delicate halo. I am a size 4 and wear a size 4.25 for comfort, I think you cannot go wrong with any of the selections you posted, but I think cushions are just lovely because they are a bit different. beautiful! enjoy the journey and definitely come back with your final pick!

 

[Niel]

There is this. Makes it easy when its from the same designer you want the setting from.
http://www.victorcanera.com/diamonds/xh8zq9

 

[MollyMalone]

A couple of thoughts, fizgig:
* If Victor Canera is going to craft the ring, there are definite pluses to having him source the diamond for you as well:
http://www.victorcanera.com/diamond-source-about

* Agree with the others who have commented the VC braided shank halo is better suited to a round stone; if you select modern cushion as the center stone shape on VC's web site, you'll see that he doesn't suggest that mounting for a cushion cut:
http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/engagement-rings/shape/modern-cushion

* Are you entirely confident that your petite, future wife will wear a halo'd, ~4 ct center stone on a daily basis? KristyDarling, the owner of the halo'd 3.14 Old Mine Brilliant cushion in the 2012 link that Gypsy gave you, has more recently commented that she has been donning that ring only on special occasions because it's so dramatic that she's self-conscious about wearing it in her day-to-day life:
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...e-by-owd-mark-t.206524/#post-3758508#p3758508

 

[Victor Canera]

* Agree with the others who have commented the VC braided shank halo is better suited to a round stone; if you select modern cushion as the center stone shape on VC's web site, you'll see that he doesn't suggest that mounting for a cushion cut:
http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/engagement-rings/shape/modern-cushion
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...e-by-owd-mark-t.206524/#post-3758508#p3758508

Hi Everyone,

I thought I would just chime in on a point MollyMalone made.
I personally think that a modern cushion or an antique cushion could look beautiful in that mounting. A halo version of the braided shank piece was made that was also really beautiful.

The way our web site works is that it makes suggestions for diamonds based on what the original ring's center stone was. This is strictly the programming logic of the website and doesn't represent what my personal views are regarding a center stone being paired with a ring. In other words, if a ring was made with a round diamond in the catalog, it will try to offer up other round diamonds. Our new website should fix this a little bit when we launch it.

To the OP, good luck with your search.


My Best,

 

[MollyMalone]

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* * * The way our web site works is that it makes suggestions for diamonds based on what the original ring's center stone was. This is strictly the programming logic of the website and doesn't represent what my personal views are regarding a center stone being paired with a ring. In other words, if a ring was made with a round diamond in the catalog, it will try to offer up other round diamonds. Our new website should fix this a little bit when we launch it. * * *

Ah, I obviously believed that what comes up reflects your own design sense, so thanks for setting me straight!

 

[fizgig]

Wow, you guys are fast!

It sounds like my profile concerns leading me to the cushion weren't quite right, and it's certainly easier to shop for a round.

More than one of you mentioned the conflict between the setting and a cushion, and I know I don't have an eye for that sort of thing. It's great to hear from VC himself that it *could* work, but if it's not the most appropriate I'm not tied to cushions. I just wanted to get something more on the distinct side than "OMG SPARKLY", so the Brian Gavin MRB, while spectacular, is probably not what I'm going for. I'm not familiar with European Rounds at all, so I'll have to read up on those next.

MollyMalone, thanks for pointing out KristyDarling's experience. That's exactly what I'm trying to avoid. It sounds like I shouldn't push the size too far, and I can always get her some bigger occasional jewelry later.

Any non-aesthetic concerns on that kind of setting? I'm worried it'll be very difficult to resize. I hoped to do this without her participation, but I don't want to get the size wrong, so I may have to compromise on that. My 4.5 estimate comes from measuring a picture of her right-hand ring next to a quarter

And as a dumb question, this setting is called a "Halo Solitaire", but I thought those words meant contradictory things. Or is "solitaire" is contrast to side-stones?

OK, so I guess my next step is just to read up on European Rounds and start a conversation with VC about the actual ring. Thanks, all!

 

[ElleElle]

Just for reference my finger is a 4.25 and my round brilliant is 2.55 carat. I'm not a flashy gal but I still would be THRILLED with a larger stone any day! 3 to 3.5 would be my dream size. Others can chime in but I've heard that cushions face up smaller then rounds fyi.

 

[Niel]

So you aren't set on cushions, but you want something more unique than a round..... Had you decided against other shapes?

 

[fizgig]

So you aren't set on cushions, but you want something more unique than a round..... Had you decided against other shapes?

No, not at all. I figured it might be more respectful of everyone's time if I came in with a suggestion of my own, but I'd be happy to hear suggestions of other cuts folks think would would work.

 

[Niel]

I just saw this on JA today and thought it was really special.

http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/3.70-carat-h-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-356948

the large culet is very yummy.

And, yes, im not sure it wold work with your current "twist" VC, but you said he likes rings that looks like "two rings put together?".." yes?

I feel like it could be cool with a halo spit shank... or possibly something like this (maybe ) with a halo

 

[fizgig]

As an update, I asked her twin for her ring size, and it's 3.25. My quarter method is pretty suspect, I guess I'll have to get her measurement taken for real, surprise be damned.

And thanks for pointing that one out, Neil. I had seen that setting myself and thought it was a good contender, though it's not a halo and I'd like to go custom/designer, and I feel pretty good about the VC setting. To be honest, none of her friends understood what she was talking about when she said "two rings put together", but I think these two are what she's talking about.

But the Asscher you point out is definitely an interesting option.

 

[Niel]

As an update, I asked her twin for her ring size, and it's 3.25. My quarter method is pretty suspect, I guess I'll have to get her measurement taken for real, surprise be damned.

And thanks for pointing that one out, Neil. I had seen that setting myself and thought it was a good contender, though it's not a halo and I'd like to go custom/designer, and I feel pretty good about the VC setting. To be honest, none of her friends understood what she was talking about when she said "two rings put together", but I think these two are what she's talking about.

But the Asscher you point out is definitely an interesting option.

I fully think you should go custom, and I think being near vc, its perfect for you. But he will design something for you in any idea you have, you don't have to have a template of something he has already done.

I always find those twisty rings beautiful, but twisty and halo feels a like a lot in one setting. I just think it's cleaner to keep one main element per ring. For example, a split shank halo with twisty band feels like youve combined two rings. She will be wearing a wedding ring too, won't she? If so I think it might be more elegant to save the twisty band for the wedding ring, and reduce one element from the e ring.

 

[CalmerPalmer]

I second Niel's suggestions on the stone

http://www.victorcanera.com/diamonds/xh8zq9

And the cross over ring design (without the twist). As an avid DY fan myself, I'm almost certain that she'll love the crossover pave design (and it is what she meant by "two rings put together") as that is one of the signatures of DY, and is similar to one of their first engagement ring designs.

I tried on the DY crossover solitaire as well as the one with the halo when I was searching for mine, and must say that even with just the plain crossover cable (without pave) the halo design starts to get a bit crowded/that there is a bit too much going on, and I have a bigger finger size at 4.5. I saw the latest Wisteria design (similar to the VC design that you picked out) and felt that it is a little bit of a departure from DY's traditional look, which I personally am not a fan of. But since she's a DY fan, perhaps you can test her temperature on the Wisteria line? - They do make a twisty wedding band also as part of that line as Niel suggested.

FYI I did just purchase the BE 3ct stone, but felt that the VC one was a very close contender and it is a touch smaller in terms of face-up area so that should help too. But I feel that on a 3.25 finger, if you do end up choosing a halo, this stone is perhaps more appropriate:

http://www.victorcanera.com/diamonds/nn5w93

Exciting journey! Best of luck!

 

[CalmerPalmer]

Sorry just another thought. The DY colored gems do look great/more complete with a diamond halo and she may be influenced by that when she mentioned that she likes the halo look. Frankly with the same amount of finger coverage (given your budget), a halo might not be necessary for a diamond center.

 

[Gypsy]

MollyMalone, thanks for pointing out KristyDarling's experience. That's exactly what I'm trying to avoid. It sounds like I shouldn't push the size too far, and I can always get her some bigger occasional jewelry later.

Okay. Let me put this in context though. KD is a friend. She's very much a jeans and T-shirt type gal. She doesn't go cocktail gowns and heels.

So YES for her, that ring was not a good fit. Though it is gorgeous.

But you have to take your lady's personality and lifestyle in mind.

HOWEVER. I am NOT a halo fan for stones that size. I'd put the 4 carat GOG modern cushion in a split shank.

And the 3 carat antique cut... well, I'd put that in a tapered french cut setting.

 

[Gypsy]

She has a TWIN!!

OMG. You totally should have the twin help you with this!

 

[Niel]

MollyMalone, thanks for pointing out KristyDarling's experience. That's exactly what I'm trying to avoid. It sounds like I shouldn't push the size too far, and I can always get her some bigger occasional jewelry later.

Okay. Let me put this in context though. KD is a friend. She's very much a jeans and T-shirt type gal. She doesn't go cocktail gowns and heels.

So YES for her, that ring was not a good fit. Though it is gorgeous.

But you have to take your lady's personality and lifestyle in mind.

HOWEVER. I am NOT a halo fan for stones that size. I'd put the 4 carat GOG modern cushion in a split shank.

And the 3 carat antique cut... well, I'd put that in a tapered french cut setting.

I'm inclined to agree about the halo. But, I also agree that her style should trump the issue with the halo.

Just my two cents. If you did that david yurman split shank style sans halo, with the biggest cushion Victor could find, that would he sticking on a small hand like that. But again, that's assuming that's what she means by "two rings" thing.

 

[MollyMalone]

Would you consider making this a joint endeavor, not a surprise? Or at least have her accompany you to Victor Canera to see different sizes and cuts,** try on various styles and nail down the appropriate ring size(s) (may vary a bit, depending on style chosen) -- even if she wants to leave it up to you to pick The One from the "finalists"?

I'm asking because I'm not the only woman who ended up with an e-ring different from what I initially thought I would prefer, before auditioning rings on my finger. And I loved the process of shopping for my e-ring and the wedding bands with my then fiancé (who proposed without a ring or stone); it was a wonderfully fun thing for us to do as a couple, brought us even closer together.

I personally would not select a ring with a wholly twisted/braided and/or pavéd shank because resizing -- which is almost always inevitable at some point -- is going to end up with an imo unsightly "scar". But I never wanted to wear an e-ring or wedding band which was not the original one & I realize that not everyone shares my sentiments on that.


** The enthusiasm you see here on PS for Old European and Old Mine Cuts -- and/or modern reinterpretations of those (e.g., Canera European Rounds & Antique Cushions) -- is not universal. So although many of us are captivated by a stone with broad flashes & an open culet --like the JA stone Niel linked for you, others don't care for how they perform and the "hole". And there are differing preferences even amongst us aficionados of those cuts. So I'd consider a ring with such a stone to be a particularly risky proposition, unless she has already seen examples and admired them, clued you in on the particular facetings she likes.

 

[GQsOwn]

Just for reference here is a pic of a twisted band and cushion cut diamond. The cushion is only 1.76 carats but for a visual reference I thought it might be nice for you to see.

https://leonmege.com/index.php/portfolio/engagement/halo-engagement-ring-design-detail

I will confess, I am not a fan of halos especially on diamonds of the size you are looking at. More because I think, IMO, they take away from how beautiful the center stone is; however, if she loves halos and that fits her style that is most important.

Seeing as you are considerings other shapes (full disclaimer I do not like round diamonds for rings) I thought I just would show a few shapes that might look nice all in the 2+ carat range.

You mentioned she likes the two ring look:
https://leonmege.com/index.php/portfolio/engagement/split-shank-engagement-ring-detail

Halo Cushion:
https://leonmege.com/index.php/portfolio/engagement/halo-ring-settings-detail

Unique Cushion setting with a halo effect:
https://leonmege.com/index.php/port...hion-diamond-engagement-ring-solitaire-detail

My favorite Emerald cut (look up my post you will understand why):
https://leonmege.com/index.php/port...-emerald-cut-solitaire-engagement-ring-detail

One last one for reference, you could consider mixing color stones or mix metal to add drama:
https://leonmege.com/index.php/portfolio/engagement/true-antique-cushion-platinum-gold-ring-detail


***I am not suggesting you use Leon Mege, Victor is amazing from all the PSer's post I have read. I am just showing you other designs that may be of interest to you in making this decision.

 

[fizgig]

Thanks so much, again. Sorry to have taken you all in circles here, but I've appreciated every piece of advice.

OK, you guys had me convinced I needed to get some more information from her, so I just asked her. She was a little disappointed to have the conversation, but I told her it wasn't imminent, and I learned a lot.

I showed her pictures and videos of various cuts, and she expressed a preference for Asscher, radiant, and cushion and dislikes round and princess because they're so popular. She told me she *doesn't* like halos and instead meant she likes rectangular cuts. Good to know!

I also showed her rings from JA, LM, VC, and HPD, as well as a few antiques, and I was surprised by what she said. She thought the VC twisted shank seemed too thin and preferred a tapered shank. Of everything she saw, her favorite was another VC: http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/engagement-rings/the-sophia-french-cut-solitaire-with-radiant.. She also liked a lot of filigree-heavy Art Deco pieces, which I didn't expect.

Finally, she mentioned she wouldn't feel comfortable wearing something that costs $100k, and that was in discussing an Argyle stone, so it wasn't even about size. So I guess I'll need to scale it back a bit.

We agreed that the next steps are that she'll visit some stores with her sister in a few weeks and a get a feel for how things look on her hand. And she sounded OK with the idea of receiving a stone with a temporary setting and then customizing something with her after a proposal. So I think I'll wait to hear how the shopping goes and then come back for more specific selection advice.

 

[heididdl]

Your last post says it all. No matter what your budget she's gotta love it to wear it so glad you had the conversation and it sounds like this is one lucky girl to get just what she wants and wiants to save you money as a couple

 

[Niel]

Thanks so much, again. Sorry to have taken you all in circles here, but I've appreciated every piece of advice.

OK, you guys had me convinced I needed to get some more information from her, so I just asked her. She was a little disappointed to have the conversation, but I told her it wasn't imminent, and I learned a lot.

I showed her pictures and videos of various cuts, and she expressed a preference for Asscher, radiant, and cushion and dislikes round and princess because they're so popular. She told me she *doesn't* like halos and instead meant she likes rectangular cuts. Good to know!

I also showed her rings from JA, LM, VC, and HPD, as well as a few antiques, and I was surprised by what she said. She thought the VC twisted shank seemed too thin and preferred a tapered shank. Of everything she saw, her favorite was another VC: http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/engagement-rings/the-sophia-french-cut-solitaire-with-radiant.... She also liked a lot of filigree-heavy Art Deco pieces, which I didn't expect.

Finally, she mentioned she wouldn't feel comfortable wearing something that costs $100k, and that was in discussing an Argyle stone, so it wasn't even about size. So I guess I'll need to scale it back a bit.

We agreed that the next steps are that she'll visit some stores with her sister in a few weeks and a get a feel for how things look on her hand. And she sounded OK with the idea of receiving a stone with a temporary setting and then customizing something with her after a proposal. So I think I'll wait to hear how the shopping goes and then come back for more specific selection advice.

I'm so glad you did this. We were going in a completely different direction!

I think her disappointment in knowing you're looking will be far less than what it could have been if you dropped soooo much money on a ring she doesn't like.

Plus, I'm sure she has thought about it before, so it couldn't be a huge surprise.

I'm still a fan of that asscher I showed you with the culet. Big, much less than 100k, and would go with an amazing art deco style setting.

Plus, she gave you a lot to go with. This can still be a great surprise for her.

 

[Niel]

here was another stone i found. A nice radiant, but if she likes art deco, id probably avoid radiants.


http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/radiant-cut/3.25-carat-h-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-368569