Antique Diamond Buying Guide

[inyminy]

Looking for someone to please point me in the right direction...is there PS guide to buying antique diamonds? I can't seem to find it if it exists. I need to get an education on the topic. I've been combing through various posts, gathering bits & bobs here & there, but the information collected in my brain is not well formed. So far I have the impression that the following factors are desirable in an old cut round diamond:

• Small table (47%?) + high crown
  Deep stones are better than shallow - 62-68%?
  Crisp faceting, especially of the flowery or snowflake pattern
  Big blocky facets
  No chips
  Old stones exhibit color differently than moderns, i.e. you can go down much lower on the color scale
  Antiques are priced similarly to moderns

Am I missing anything? What are the proportion measurement guidelines? How do you assess the cut quality/performance of an antique? I've seen some people refer to lazy/dead facets, obstruction, etc. How can you tell? Does it manifest itself as darkness? Do symmetry & polish matter as much as in MRB? Are Idealscope images or other tech/imaging tools useful and if so is there a knowledgeable antiques appraiser in NYC you rec who uses such tools? Sorry for all the questions, but I really do need sort this out. Thank you!

 

[GemFever]

Hi Inyminy! Welcome to the world of antique cuts

You could look through these guides:

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/antique-diamond-guide.176033/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/antique-diamond-guide.176033/[/URL]

and

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/dreamers-old-cut-guide.178095/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/dreamers-old-cut-guide.178095/[/URL]

As well as the dozens of threads on people's searches for antique stones. The more you read and the more photos you see (along with explanations and analysis of those photos), the better an understanding you will get.

In the end, it comes down to experience and training your eyes. There are no hard numbers. Finding a good appraiser of antiques would be a great start, perhaps someone could help you with that.

What kind of stone are you looking for?

 

[inyminy]

Hi GemFever! Thank you for the welcome & pointing me in the right direction. I have a lot to read. I'm looking for a 9.2-9.4 mm OEC + setting (can be antique or repro), as well as antique diamond cluster earrings. I am really confused by pricing as it seems all over the map & I don't want to overpay. I have no point of reference to compare. I saw a pair of Victorian cluster earrings in a jewelry store that were gorgeous, but they were >$13K. Seemed excessive to me given the largest principal stone was 40 pts, < 2 ctw, and there was a major visible inclusion. The saleswoman said (straight faced) inclusions didn't matter much in the olden days.

 

[GemFever]

I'm not sure what your budget is, but have you seen this thread in Rocky Talky about a beautiful OEC for sale?

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/3-4-i-si1-oec-for-sale.186938/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/3-4-i-si1-oec-for-sale.186938/[/URL]

 

[maccers]

I've just skimmed this thread but wanted to add this PS article, I've bookmarked it for reference.

https://www.pricescope.com/journal/modern-quest-old-cut-diamonds

 

[inyminy]

GemFever, I did not see that thread. Thank you, but it is too expensive for me. Hopefully, some lucky person here will get the privilege of owning it.

I am confused about something. I was telling a dealer I was looking for an OEC. He asked "round or old european?" I said "what's the difference?" He said it's a big difference but didn't explain. Isn't an OEC necessarily a round?

 

[GemFever]

Inyminy, what the dealer says does sound quite confusing. Old Europeans ARE round, you are right. Sometimes they are a little "off round," meaning they may be just slightly cushiony, or may have slight asymmetry, but it is still a round cut. Perhaps the dealer means "Modern Round Brilliant" (the modern rounds) when he says "round"? Or maybe he thinks an Old European is actually an Old Mine Cut? Those tend to be cushions.

Probably best to tell the dealer you want a round vintage diamond, and plenty of photos! (so you can judge for yourself what cut it actually is).

 

[inyminy]

I think you're right. he probably confused OEC w/OMC. I try to stay away from the word "vintage" because some people can take that to mean stones from the 1970's or '80s.

 

[mimzi]

Hello,

Looking for some guidance on antique stone.

It is a 1.27, f colour, Vs2, platinum from around 1900-1920.
It has a GEM A cert (UK body?).
Symmetry if fair, good polish and medium flouresence.
Dealer says it is an Old European Cut and actually guarantees per cert that it is hand cut.

I expressed concern about the symmetry and he said this is completely normal for a stone of that era. I am also concerned about the flouresence, though, I understand this is a naturally occuring phenomenon and doesn't really make an everyday difference to the diamond.

Guide price is 14.5 sterling pounds, so it's not cheap. I am torn as to whether I should buy this or go for a modern cut with better symmetry etc. I could get a lot of MRB for that money. I am also wondering if a GEM A cert holds much weight, and am biased toward GIA or more known bodies.

Any advice?

Many thanks...

 

[mimzi]

These are pics of said stone...