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Setting advice..

Indylady

Ideal_Rock
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Apr 28, 2008
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I've just ordered a 4.8mm ruby (still awaiting confirmation though). Its my second from the same vendor; the first was truly stunning, and I hope this one will be too.

Now, I'm looking for setting ideas. I'd like this ring to be a show-stopper; an RHR to end all RHR's. I'd definitely like to set it in 18k yellow gold. Can you all help me chose a setting?

1st idea: A remake of the Tiffany Etoile, with either a full or semi bezel. 18k YG.
http://jewelsbyericagrace.smugmug.com/Jewelry/Modern-and-Estate-Pieces/120ctw-T/13160801_nNWZ7#955333809_cZvcQ

2nd idea: The basic three stone. 18k YG.

3rd idea: A smooth collet bezel, with diamonds, spaced apart, in groups of three going 3/4 of the way down the band, like Michel B's Crown Lace settings.

What do you all think? I'm leaning most towards number 1 and 3, but I'm looking forward to your responses! Thank you all for your help!

basic3stonelogr.jpg

HOWbezelforruby.jpg
 

chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
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If you want a showstopper ring, the semi bezel etoile ring is the way to go. :love:
 

cookies

Brilliant_Rock
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I like the 3rd idea the most. Simple yet elegant!
 

Novel

Brilliant_Rock
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Aug 31, 2009
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Etoile, definitely. And I love multi row pave on yellow gold. Super lux.
 

movie zombie

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Jan 20, 2005
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the lord of gems is just so-so.
the 3rd is nice but utilitarian.
the etoile ring would be a 'stop you in your tracks' ring......and the one i think is the winner.

MoZo
 

Aoife

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 23, 2010
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1,779
Another vote for the Etoile, since you said you want this ring to be a showstopper. The other two choices would be very pretty rings, but wouldn't get that catch-your-breath-beautiful! response.
 

Lovinggems

Ideal_Rock
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I love the Etoile, it's on my favourite settings list. :appl:
 

Indylady

Ideal_Rock
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Wow--thank you all!

It seems like the overwhelming response in Etoile. That's the one I was really leaning towards, though the HOW/Michael B Crown Lace inspired setting was a close second.

The only thing that worries me about the Etoile is the massive amount of pave--would it be ok to wear often?
 

LD

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Indy - apologies for coming late to the party but I'm glad you haven't gone from the LOGR one. I have that setting and it's distinctly under whelming - so much so that I've never set anything in it. This is of course only my opinion but for a showstopper I most certainly wouldn't chose this setting (apologies to anybody else who has it).
 

Indylady

Ideal_Rock
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Thanks for the heads up LD. The reason I chose that specific LOGR was because of the small sidestones. The centerstone is only 4.8mm, so I thought that the smaller sidestones would compliment it. That helps make the decision to eliminate option 2 that much easier!
 

vbnet

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Apr 26, 2010
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looks like I'm +7, for the etoile (besides yourself) - WOW whata ring! And if you put red in the middle!
 

ooo~Shiney!

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Well, since you used my beautiful Tsavorite ring as your #3 example, let me say that I LOVE my ring and I am very happy with the setting!
I feel that Sally has done a remarkable job of setting my beautiful stone into a simple, elegant bezel :love: :love:

Just so you know, my Tsav is about 6.5 x 6.5 (my hands are kind of big and the ring is a size 7)
Your ruby would be a bit smaller.
This picture of the ring on my hand may give you a basis for comparison, given the size of your stone and your own hand / ring size.

I love my ring and wear it all the time, the only thing I would love more is if the Tsav was BIGGER!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:
So if you want a bigger look for your ruby, you might be happier with a blingier ring.
I would love a ruby that size in the etoile setting, as well and that is what I vote for :love: :cheeky: :love: :cheeky:

photo.jpg
 

SomethingSinful

Shiny_Rock
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Oct 10, 2009
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I would go with the Etoile style setting too
 

jstarfireb

Ideal_Rock
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Well, it's not my personal taste, but if you want a showstopper, the blingy pave-encrusted Etoile style is the way to go. But the one I personally like best is the Heart of Water ring.
 

Indylady

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From the top, thank you to Chrono, Cookie, Novel, MZ, Aoife, LG, LD, VB, OooShiney, SomethingSinful, and Jstar! Your comments have all been so helpful to me!

OooShiney--I had no idea that was your ring! It is truly stunning. I just love the smooth bezel of the 18k on the green of your tsav--your ring is one of those instances where a truly beautiful setting (I love the profile view especially!) meets a truly beautiful gem.

Jstar--I really like OooShiney's HOW ring too. What do you all think of combining elements of the two?

A couple of questions for you all:

Full or semi bezel?
-The traditional Etoile has a semi, but a full would make a nice boost for the ruby's small size and would add protection.

Miligrain around the bezel?
-This is totally off the Etoile, but I like miligrain.

Can I wear pave often?

What do you think of a band that is slightly thinner than the centerstone?
-The Etoile's band/centerstone sit flush with each other and share the same width. I'm wondering if the pave will overpower the ruby? Also, less pave means less chance of losing pave!



Here's a pic of the Etoile for reference:

TiffanyEtoileforRuby.jpg
 

chrono

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Full or semi bezel will depend on the tone of the ruby. If it is pinkish, then full bezel. If it is veering towards the dark side, then a semi-bezel.

While I love milgrain, the Etoile design is already quite busy with 3 rows of diamonds. Adding the milgrain will only clutter the design further, in addition to taking it away from the flowing feel.

Define what “often” is to you. Are you also going to be mostly sitting around only with the ring on? Well done pave work is going to hold up the diamonds a lot better than poor workmanship so it all depends.

I find that wearing a wide band with a smaller center stone (up to a certain size) helps the stone look larger, but that’s just me. ;))
 

Indylady

Ideal_Rock
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The intended ruby's little brother is a perfect shade of red; not pinkish, and not too dark. This one, I haven't seen in person yet. However, the first ruby is prong set in a very open setting that sits just slightly high, so there is plenty of light from all angles. It could be likened to Daniel M's U-Prong setting, and it suits the ruby really well. I'll upload a picture of the ruby ASAP.

I think that I prefer full bezels to semi-bezels, but this is a low sitting bezel (unlike the bezel of OooShiney's tsav) that will definitely block light.
 

rosetta

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Another vote for etoile. It'll look fabulous!
 

Indylady

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Here it is! I thought I'd post a couple pictures. I do still love the pave band idea, but I'm not so sure about a bezel or a semi bezel .

002.JPG
 

chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Why the hesitancy of a semi-bezel?
 

Indylady

Ideal_Rock
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Since the ruby is small, I'm scared of overshadowing it/covering it up with the thickness of a bezel or semi-bezel. Do you think that it might be 'too much' for a small stone?
 

chrono

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If anything else, a well done bezel should make the ruby appear larger than it really is. I have a 5 mm diamond that looks larger once bezeled but I also made sure the benchperson knew I want the metal to be as thin as possible so as not to make the pendant look clunky and overpower the diamond.
 

Treenbean

Brilliant_Rock
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Feb 25, 2010
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Hi
Here is my humble opinion. I like the lace one the best, because it is simple clean elegant and really beautiful and seems wearable on all occasions. I think the etoile is pretty and I like half bezels a lot but it looks almost clunky on the finger (EricaGrace pics) just doesn't seem as refined but its just my opinion. :twirl:
 

MakingTheGrade

Super_Ideal_Rock
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I think the etoile would be more "show stopping", if you wanted something more delicate you can probably communicate that to the goldsmith. Do you know who you're going to have make the ring?
 

Cind11

Brilliant_Rock
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IndyLady, here is a ring I just had made by AnnMcKay. I think my ruby is 5.92 mm or something close to that so a bit bigger than yours. I don't think the bezel made the stone look smaller. In fact, it made it look larger I think.

cindyfialka-ruby.jpg
 

Indylady

Ideal_Rock
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Thank you Chrono, Treebean, MTG, and Cind11!

First of all, Cindy, your ring and ruby are gorgeous! Wow.

To all: I didn't quite articulate myself well earlier. I do agree, that bezels usually (nearly always) make the center stone look bigger. But, like Treebean said, the Etoile has a tendency to look slightly clunky, and I'm worried that the jeweler/designer I work with might not be able to create a delicate semi-bezel or bezel. The more I think about it, the more I realize that maybe I'm worried about the design of the Etoile overshadowing my ruby rather than the bezel..

I'm on the run now but will be back to respond to all comments!

MTG- No idea of which designer/vendor I'll go with. It might depend on exactly what the "look" I'm going for will be.

And to all: Is the Etoile too blingy for everyday?

Ok, must run now!
 

MakingTheGrade

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I don't think the etoile would be too blingly.
But if you're concerned about that, you chould maybe do a mini-sholt? A semi bezel with a row of diamonds in along the middle of the shank?

You can also check out the "Show me your bezel ring" thread in SMTR for setting ideas involving bezels.
https://www.pricescope.com/forum/show-me-the-ring/show-us-your-bezel-rings-t121897-390.html

sholt.JPG
 

Cind11

Brilliant_Rock
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I wouldn't think the Etoile is too blingy for every day but you have to be comfortable with it. I really like the Scholdt setting that MTG posted.
 

Michael_E

Brilliant_Rock
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Maybe you should have the Etoile style done in a tapered band using smaller diamonds. I did this one a while back and it shows a tapered band which may be more appealing, (please forgive the big beads they were designed to be cast and then pressed down). This design was for someone who wanted a very protective bezel for the center stone and so the stone was to be set down into the bezel with a millgrain rim above the stone. I was going to pierce the sides of the bezel, but never got around to it, (imagination required on this one). This model is for a similar sized stone to your ruby, so if your jeweler can use this file, let me know and I'll send it to you.

5mm ruby YG pave.jpg
 
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