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Setting A Tanzanite

JDam

Rough_Rock
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Sep 6, 2002
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32
I am in the process of purchasing a really nice Dark Super Neon Tanzanite 12.69ct cushion cut stone. I know that tanzanite is on the brittle side and I am a bit worried about the setting process. It will probably be set in a bezel type setting.

Is it possible to have the stone insured during the setting process?

Any thoughts would be most appreciated! :))
 

chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Apr 22, 2004
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There are two things that concern me:
1. Many bench people will not bezel a tanzanite but prong set it because the bezel setting process puts more stress on the stone.
2. If your stone is dark as you described, setting it in a bezel will further darken it, possibly leaving you with a black hole after it is done.

Yes, you can have the stone insured during the setting process and this will have to be something you have to purchase on your own. I believe Jeweler’s Mutual is open to such a transaction.

And btw, I hope you are also aware that tanzanites are thermal sensitive so be careful about temperature changes when wearing and caring for it.
 

m76steve

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Dec 21, 2008
Messages
605
tanzanite being what it is-handling is critical-i would think prong setting is better because of less stress-more light into the stone-placed in pendent to lesson collision with anything-what is dark, neon color?-by all means have the stone cked by an independent appraiser just to settle any ?'s u might have about the stone-my 2 cnts-steve...by all means enjoy ur stone & picture it when mounted...
 

MakingTheGrade

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I prong set my tanzanite due to concerns for safety to the stone as well as to not darken the color. However, I believe Cind11 had her tanzanite bezel set by Julia Kay Taylor with a lovely result. You just need to find a bench jewelery you trust and who has experience with tanzanite.

I have never worked with a jeweler who was willing to insure the stone for the setting process, it has always been "set at your own risk", especially with softer stones.
 

m76steve

Brilliant_Rock
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Dec 21, 2008
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605
enclosed pic of tanzanite prong set-never a problem to the stone-steve...

003.JPG
 

T L

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Sep 20, 2008
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Also, when obtaining a jeweler to set your tanzanite, make sure they never submerge it in any cleaning fluid (even soapy water) for a long duration of time. They should never put it in an ultrasonic cleaner or use steam on it.

Tanzanites are prone to thermal shock, and one must be very careful with them while setting them.

Bezeling should only be done by the most experienced of jewelers with ample knowledge of tanzanite. The bezeling process itself can be very hard on such a soft and brittle stone. I personally would do prongs if I were you, and make it a pendant. A ring is too risky to wear, especially with such a large stone.
 

LD

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Jun 29, 2008
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I have an 8ct Tanzanite that I desperately wanted bezel set - despite knowing all the risks. Not one person would do it (and I generally only use very experienced setters).

Also if your stone is dark, as others have said, it will potentially darken in any setting and even more so in a bezel.
 

Michael_E

Brilliant_Rock
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Nov 19, 2003
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JDam|1295503244|2827410 said:
It will probably be set in a bezel type setting.

Is it possible to have the stone insured during the setting process?

I'm not sure about the insurance question. I think that I read once where one firm was offering this sort of insurance to jewelers, but I would think it to be pretty rare.

There are two types of bezel setting. IN one you use a heavy cast wall for the bezel. This wall is soft, annealed material, but must still be pressed onto the stone with a hammer or hammer handpiece. Since you can't see the edge of the stone when doing this, you end up just pressing down until it looks right and the stone is tight. Very difficult to do on soft brittle materials like tanzanite.

The other bezel is a soft annealed strip of material which is which is quite thin, measuring maybe 10 to 15 thousandths of an inch thick. this can be pressed on to the stone with a burnisher rather easily and then the edge pressed even further with a tiny little burnisher for final tightening. Since you can directly feel what's happening with this, it is always the best method of setting soft stones if you require a bezel setting. Your setter will probably also make the stone's upper girdle edge slightly rounded with a small diamond wheel in order to reduce the stress which comes from pressing on a sharp upper girdle edge.

As for darkening the stone, I doubt that you'll notice it much in an already dark stone like tanzanite. The darkening that people notice when bezel setting comes from the tilt window being darker than it would be in a more open setting. This is a lot more noticeable in light colored stones and almost imperceptible in dark stones like amethyst, garnet, sapphire or tanzanite. You can always test the idea first by putting on some black gloves and putting the stone between your fingers. If it doesn't look dramatically darker when you move and tilt the stone, then it won't be a problem once set.
 

marymm

Ideal_Rock
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Here's a couple vendor pics of my bezelled Tanzanite in Heart of Water's Iolani ring design -- the bezel-work is clean and crisp, and the Tanzy looks great (nary a scratch). Since this was one of my 1st projects with them, I did decide to go with one of my less saturated Tanzanites b/c I knew the bezel and ring design would darken the stone but also "just in case." Now I know they do such beautiful work, I'm thinking I may have Sally bezel one of my better Tanzanites in a more open design.


This is a 7.5mm round, and I think the carat weight was 1.65ct (?) - sterling silver w/ 18kt yellow gold:
Iolani%20-%203.jpg ,

Iolani%20-%201.jpg
 

Cind11

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Feb 5, 2004
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1,959
MakingTheGrade|1295533884|2827556 said:
I prong set my tanzanite due to concerns for safety to the stone as well as to not darken the color. However, I believe Cind11 had her tanzanite bezel set by Julia Kay Taylor with a lovely result. You just need to find a bench jewelery you trust and who has experience with tanzanite.

I have never worked with a jeweler who was willing to insure the stone for the setting process, it has always been "set at your own risk", especially with softer stones.

Wow MTG you have a good memory! Yes, JKT did bezel my tanzanite (along with two other stones) in a pendant. I was extremely pleased that she was able to do it.
 
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