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How should women''s dress pants fit?

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eks6426

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I have a question for all you fashion minded folks out there. I''m on the hunt for one pair of really great fitting black pants. I ordered several and they''re in my bedroom. I tried them on last night, and I realized I don''t really know how women''s trousers should fit.

Should they fit like my jeans...tighter in the rear/hip area then flow from there or should they be looser in the hip/rear area. One pair I really liked, but I think they are a little tight because I got "whiskers" near the crotch. The next size up though gives me baggy butt.

I''m not a tiny thing if that makes any difference...currently a size 12.

I''d love to find a website that shows how pants should fit properly and examples of ones that don''t fit and why.

Suggestions on what to look for in a great fit on women''s dress trousers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

gemgirl

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I just bought two pair of dress slacks from the Jones New York line. (I love their clothes) This year the fit is more of a trouser fit. They should fit your waist, but the slacks this year just graze your posterior and drape with a slightly wider leg than what we''re used to. No, no pulling at the crotch, if anything the slacks are more generously shaped this fall and winter. They''re more of a menswear fit.
 

Italiahaircolor

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Depending on the cut of the pants, the fit will be different.

If the are more trouser, they should either sit at the waist or hip, and flow into a wider leg.

I like my dress pants to sit on the hit and be smooth across the lower abdomin, without any clinging or wiskers. I like the rear to fit and be filled out flowing into a wide leg.
 

monarch64

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Date: 10/30/2008 10:35:09 AM
Author: gemgirl
I just bought two pair of dress slacks from the Jones New York line. (I love their clothes) This year the fit is more of a trouser fit. They should fit your waist, but the slacks this year just graze your posterior and drape with a slightly wider leg than what we're used to. No, no pulling at the crotch, if anything the slacks are more generously shaped this fall and winter. They're more of a menswear fit.
Great post.

ID, I always do the "sit ttest" when I try on trousers...I make sure they fit in the waist so that there is no gap between the small of my back and the pants (don't want anybody seeing my undies if they're standing behind me) and that they are loose enough (but not baggy) through the hips so I can sit comfortably and not feel like my thighs are sausages encased in acetate and wool.
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ETA: Stacy and Clinton on What Not to Wear always say fit the pants to the largest part of you and have the rest tailored to fit. So if your waist is narrower than your hips, fit the pants to your hips and have the waist taken in, or vice versa. I always buy pants which are lined, they last longer, but just know that you will pay extra for tailoring.
 

canuk-gal

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Date: 10/30/2008 10:49:36 AM
Author: monarch64


Date: 10/30/2008 10:35:09 AM
Author: gemgirl
I just bought two pair of dress slacks from the Jones New York line. (I love their clothes) This year the fit is more of a trouser fit. They should fit your waist, but the slacks this year just graze your posterior and drape with a slightly wider leg than what we're used to. No, no pulling at the crotch, if anything the slacks are more generously shaped this fall and winter. They're more of a menswear fit.
Great post.

ID, I always do the 'sit ttest' when I try on trousers...I make sure they fit in the waist so that there is no gap between the small of my back and the pants (don't want anybody seeing my undies if they're standing behind me) and that they are loose enough (but not baggy) through the hips so I can sit comfortably and not feel like my thighs are sausages encased in acetate and wool.
9.gif


ETA: Stacy and Clinton on What Not to Wear always say fit the pants to the largest part of you and have the rest tailored to fit. So if your waist is narrower than your hips, fit the pants to your hips and have the waist taken in, or vice versa. I always buy pants which are lined, they last longer, but just know that you will pay extra for tailoring.
HI:

Monnie--I always do the sit test too! Pants are a fashion "issue" with me since I am 5'6" (112lbs) I find very little that fits, well. I have to try on 10 pair before I find one that fit properly. I suggest trying many types before buying--then buy many of that style! I tend toward lower rise.

Also, I think undergarments are as important as the slacks--the less you see of them, the better. I have been buying very lightweight undies, boyshort style with a loose leg that are almost invisiable when worn. Hanky panky also makes great subtle thongish undies.

cheers--Sharon
 

aprilcait

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I like my work pants to fit smooth in the front, and gently flare out or fall straight from the hip down. I don''t like them to hug my thighs, so I go for a wide leg/trouser cut. In the back, I like it to follow the contour of the top of my rump (not hug the whole tush area though) and fall straight down from there.
 

studyer83

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crotch whiskers are a personal pet peeve of mine
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They draw attention to the wrong place, and sooo many women wear pants with them! A little bit of tailoring and biting the bullet and getting the larger size will usually fix it. So often I see women in my age group (20''s) - even think women - who wear their pants too tight. It actually makes them look bigger than they are because the pants hug and bunch instead of draping.
 

kcoursolle

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They should fit snug (with no bulge) on the waist, graze your hips and seat area (without being tight), and then just flow down loosely from there...IMO
 

JulieN

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my question is where they should hit on your shoe...
 

monarch64

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Date: 10/30/2008 1:39:10 PM
Author: JulieN
my question is where they should hit on your shoe...
Top of your foot (front), in back the hem should end at the bottom of your heel (stocking feet). Always bring a shoe with heel the height you most typically wear when having pants hemmed.
 

eks6426

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Thank you for the advice. I''m looking for one pair of black pants that fit fabulously well. In the past, all my dress pants have been rayon blends which droop very fast. I''m been allergic to wool, but I''m going to see if I can get the fully lined wool pants to work because they look so much better.

Where I live, the only store that carries lined wool pants is Talbots. I currently have 9 pairs pants from JCrew because they seem to be one of the few companies that have fully lined wool pants. I''m willing to tailor but tailoring options aren''t great in my area either.

I think Aprilcat hit how I''m wanting my pants to fit: I like my work pants to fit smooth in the front, and gently flare out or fall straight from the hip down. I don''t like them to hug my thighs, so I go for a wide leg/trouser cut. In the back, I like it to follow the contour of the top of my rump (not hug the whole tush area though) and fall straight down from there.

The challenge is the size 10 pants give me slight crotch whiskers but they make my butt look decent. The size 12s are very big in the waist and give me a very baggy looking behind. I''m not sure the 12s will be easily alterable in the hip/butt area.

Does anyone know any good brands of LINED wool pants to try. I''m finding that the stretch wool pants work really well. In the JCrew brand, I like the fabric of the Wool Stretch line and the Gaberdine line.

Monnie--Can you explain the length issue again? If I''m wearing 3" heels, should my pants come close to the ground or stop up near my heel? I always thought they should be about 1/4-1/2" off the ground but I''m very likely wrong.
 

aprilcait

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Date: 10/30/2008 2:24:22 PM
Author: IslandDreams
Thank you for the advice. I'm looking for one pair of black pants that fit fabulously well. In the past, all my dress pants have been rayon blends which droop very fast. I'm been allergic to wool, but I'm going to see if I can get the fully lined wool pants to work because they look so much better.

Where I live, the only store that carries lined wool pants is Talbots. I currently have 9 pairs pants from JCrew because they seem to be one of the few companies that have fully lined wool pants. I'm willing to tailor but tailoring options aren't great in my area either.

I think Aprilcat hit how I'm wanting my pants to fit: I like my work pants to fit smooth in the front, and gently flare out or fall straight from the hip down. I don't like them to hug my thighs, so I go for a wide leg/trouser cut. In the back, I like it to follow the contour of the top of my rump (not hug the whole tush area though) and fall straight down from there.

The challenge is the size 10 pants give me slight crotch whiskers but they make my butt look decent. The size 12s are very big in the waist and give me a very baggy looking behind. I'm not sure the 12s will be easily alterable in the hip/butt area.

Does anyone know any good brands of LINED wool pants to try. I'm finding that the stretch wool pants work really well. In the JCrew brand, I like the fabric of the Wool Stretch line and the Gaberdine line.

Monnie--Can you explain the length issue again? If I'm wearing 3' heels, should my pants come close to the ground or stop up near my heel? I always thought they should be about 1/4-1/2' off the ground but I'm very likely wrong.
I like Ann Taylor Loft for dress pants. For me, they last quite a while and their lined pants are quite flattering. They have three fits (I snagged the descriptions below from their website www.anntaylorloft.com):
1. Ann - "a versatile fit, sits slightly below the waist"
2. Marisa: "a modern fit, sits lower on the waist"
3. Julie: "a curvy fit, contoured through hip and thigh"

I like Marisa and Julie pants, myself.
 

canuk-gal

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HI:

Have you tried Banana Republic?

cheers--Sharon
 

monarch64

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ID, as far as length and where your pants hit your shoes, it really is a matter of personal preference. However, when I''ve done fittings for tuxes, or ladies'' pants, the way I described it in my above post is the way three or four seamstresses I have worked with over the years taught me to do the fitting.

Personally, if I''m wearing a 3" heel (and I quite often do), I like my hem about an inch off the ground, so covering 2" of my heel when I''m standing. What you had in mind (1/4"-1/2") sounds fine, I just always worry that my hems will get dirty or start to show wear. Most of my jeans are all so long that the hems start to fray and that''s fine on jeans but not on dress pants for work.
 

eks6426

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Ok, I think I'll be ok on length then. Thank you. I just didn't want to look dorky with them being too short. I'm only 5'4" and I just couldn't imagine that I would need a tall in pants.

I have tried Banana R. and nothing fits me well in that store. I normally do well at the regular Ann Taylor for the rayon blend pants but they don't seem to have lined wool ones. Same with Ann Taylor Loft.

How about pictures of pants that actually fit well? When I look at the Jcrew models, I'm amazed at how many of them actually have the whiskers.

http://www.jcrew.com/AST/Browse/WomenBrowse/Women_Shop_By_Category/pants/wool/PRDOVR~96135/96135.jsp

Also, how are wool pants with wrinkles? I'd love to find pants that don't have little creases all over after sitting most of the day. Am I dreaming?
 

swingirl

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I don''t know if anyone suggested it but when you are between sizes get the larger and find a tailor to take it in. They do amazing things with men''s trousers. Women seem to think pants are supposed to fit perfectly off the rack. Ugh, they never do.
 

LtlFirecracker

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I think it is about finding the company that happens to cut their pants to your body type. I am a "pear" shape, and often find I have problems finding pants that fit both my waist and hips. J crew is the exception. They are my go to company for dress pants and skirts because of the way they cut their clothes. I think part of it is trial and error, but you have to know what you are looking for. Here are some things I look at when I have a pair of pants in the fitting room.

I like the waist to be a little higher than my jeans because it is more professional. I usually get pants that go about 1 inch below my belly botton. Also, high waisted pants make your legs look longer. For waist sizing, I put one finger between my abdomen and the pants. I like the pants to be loose enough for one finger to fit, but not much more. That way, if I am having one of those not so good body days, the pants won't look like they are pintching my waist (this happens more often when you are sitting, so always sit in a pair of pants as someone said for the look and confort).

For shape, I like something that has is a little fitted up top (but not tight). I guess I like them to contour my back end and show shape, but not *hug* my back end, if that makes since. From the hips, I like them to flow to a more baggy stright leg. Sounds like you like the same thing. For me, if I couldn't find something that fit my waist and hips, I would buy for my hips and take the waist in. If I am too lazy to get altering done, I err on the side of them being a bit too loose. I try to avoid tight pants at work (plus if I gain 5 lbs on a bad month it is not like I need to go shopping).

Length is important too. You want them to hit just above the bottom of your shoe (that may be hard if you wear different type of heals everyday), I usually buy my pants too long and have them hemmed (but I am tall).

I think a garbidine is a nice wool. It is very thin and I think it is more flattering. Hope this helps!
 

LtlFirecracker

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Well...I got a lot of compliments when I wore this suit to interview, I had had the jacket for 4 years. The pants were new because I had lost weight and 4 years later, they still had the matching pants :). I feel like these fit me. Hope this helps.

BTW, these are the j-crew wool crape. They are one size bigger than my normal size.

pantcrop.jpg
 

studyer83

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Wow
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perfect length and fit on the pants, and the jacket sleeve and length look great! The only think I suggest (and this is such a minor, personal thing) is tucking the shirt in so it doesn''t stick out the bottom.

That is so awesome that J Crew had the same pants, I love it when stores are practical like that! Honestly, if they still have the suit in the same material, you might consider purchasing the skirt - I don''t know if you ever wear a skirt with a suit, but it doesn''t hurt to have and they will eventually stop selling the suit!
 

LtlFirecracker

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Thanks...The shirt is cut to be tucked out. I am 5''9 and all my hight is in my torso, so finding a shirt that stays tucked in is hard. But I see what you are saying.

I have a black wool skirt from j-crew, but I don''t think it is the same wool. You are right, I should think about that.
 

eks6426

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Thank you firecracker for posting a picture. The suit looks great.

I did finally decide on a pair of pants. I wound up keeping the JCrew Stretch Wool pants. I debated between the 10s and the 12s for the weekend and in the end I kept the 10s. When I got the 12s, they were slightly loose. I easily had 3" in the waist and there was a lot of baggieness in the front area by the zipper. The 10s, although they have slight whiskering, felt much better. I''m going to work on loosing a few pounds, then they''ll fit great. If I had kept the 12s and lost any weight at all, they would have been huge.

I think I''ll look into getting the matching jacket....does anyone know if Jcrew runs the Stretch Wool line on sale?

Now, I need new brown pants but of course, there isn''t brown in the same pants....Grr. More color selections sure would be nice.
 

winternight

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I just bought a bunch of wool lined pants from Brooks Brothers and I LOVE them. They look nice on, very professional and certainly don''t wrinkle at the end of the day. For what I was spending at Ann Taylor in my opinion the quality just wasn''t there. So BB are my new favorites. I''ve tried J.Crew and I''d say the BB pants are more money but definitely nicer. They just had a sale by me, buy two items at full price and get one free.
 

LtlFirecracker

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I am glad you found something you like. Buying pants are such a pain, almost tops swimsuit shopping for me
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