How are these South Sea pearl earrings made?

[Pretty_Shiny_Things]

Hello ladies,

I need your help in determining how these pearl earrings are constructed. They once belonged to Princess Margaret and now her daughter, Lady Sarah Chatto wears them. I think they are absolutely gorgeous and would like to recreate them for my wedding.



The only problem is that I don't know where the drill holes and attachment points are located . From every photo I've seen, the pearl looks to be floating on the diamond wires. There's an unobstructed 360 deg view of the pearl with minimal metal showing. That's what I love about it. The pearl is the star and on full display.

Your expertise in pearl jewelry and its construction is desperately needed. Thank you in advance!



Option #1: Although there's no up close or back view picture of the earrings, I don't think this is how it's attached

Otion #2: This would be the easiest for jewelers to create. The original earrings have the diamond wires closer to the top, which makes the pearls look bigger and who wouldn't want that!

Option #3: This is how I think it's actually constructed. However, is it possible and safe to drill the pearls so high up like that? Another possibility is that it's half drilled on both sides but pointing diagonally down, which I don't think it's likely.

Option #4: Similar to how Mikimoto attaches theirs, but I don't see any metal work on top of the pearls.

 

[pearlsngems]

I have a Tahitian pendant drilled as per option 3, so yes it can be done.

 

[Lady_Disdain]

My guess would be a small cup from behind.

 

[Pirard]

That design struck me as similar to this finding from PP http://www.pearlparadise.com/p-3782-wish-diamond-pendant-setting-only.aspx

 

[Pretty_Shiny_Things]

I have a Tahitian pendant drilled as per option 3, so yes it can be done.

That's reassuring to know, pearlsngems . Would you mind showing me a picture of your Tahitian pendant so I can visualize it?

 

[Pretty_Shiny_Things]

My guess would be a small cup from behind.

That's what I first thought too, Lady_Disdain. But I've been zooming in this picture http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/18/71/95/187195d7bdeee47bf719cb09ebdcbe97.jpg and it doesn't seem likely.

 

[Pretty_Shiny_Things]

That design struck me as similar to this finding from PP http://www.pearlparadise.com/p-3782-wish-diamond-pendant-setting-only.aspx

Oh, thanks so much Pirard ! It looks like the pearl would only need to be half drilled, as the left side bar is clamping down on the other side, similar to a tension setting.

 

[mynattk]

Well, I have nothing really to add to the mounting part of the conversation, especially after Pirard's post, but I just wanted to say I love those earrings and wish you good luck on recreating them for your wedding! Have you got your pearls for them picked out yet?

 

[cmd2014]

Why don't you send PP your inspiration pictures, and have them let you know how they'd go about recreating them? (or other custom jeweler of your choice).

 

[pearlsngems]

It's a drop shaped pearl-- the drill hole goes through the pearl horizontally, near the top. Just like a top-drilled briolette.

 

[Pearlescence]

If I were making it I would half drill two holes (each one directly towards the centre of the pearl) and the two arms of the setting would have pegs which slotted in there, (held initially by squeezing the two arms a fraction closer) and I would use glue to secure.
Surely that's a round pearl.
They are indeed lovely earrings

 

[ennui]

My guess would be a small cup from behind.

I agree. I think it's a hard setting, with a cup in the back.

 

[Pretty_Shiny_Things]

My guess would be a small cup from behind.

I agree. I think it's a hard setting, with a cup in the back.

Thanks for the input, but Pearlescence nailed it!

If I were making it I would half drill two holes (each one directly towards the centre of the pearl) and the two arms of the setting would have pegs which slotted in there, (held initially by squeezing the two arms a fraction closer) and I would use glue to secure.
Surely that's a round pearl.
They are indeed lovely earrings

Yes! You described it perfectly! It makes physical sense. I automatically thought of pegs for camping tents, and the angle of the ropes extending from the ground matches up perfectly with the diamond wires. Thank you so much!

It's a drop shaped pearl-- the drill hole goes through the pearl horizontally, near the top. Just like a top-drilled briolette.

Drilling across for baroque Tahitians makes sense, and I've seen it done before. Your pendant sounds lovely.

Why don't you send PP your inspiration pictures, and have them let you know how they'd go about recreating them? (or other custom jeweler of your choice).

I've contacted PP for another pair of fairly simple earring design, and they were very responsive. For this pair, I was hesitant to approach them because I haven't seen anyone do this design before, and their custom projects have been pretty straightforward.

Well, I have nothing really to add to the mounting part of the conversation, especially after Pirard's post, but I just wanted to say I love those earrings and wish you good luck on recreating them for your wedding! Have you got your pearls for them picked out yet?

I love this design so much and very glad that you like them too! It's a versatile design, wearable with ballgowns, cocktail dresses and slim pant suits. I do have a pair of 11mm SS, but I'm thinking 12-13mm would be divine for this design!

 

[ennui]

I just don't think the setting is two arms through the pearl ... when I look at the earring, I think it's sitting on top of the setting. Especially considering that these are the royals, and their jewelry is very traditional and expensive. Who knows where Princess Margaret got the earrings; they may have been made in the 1800s or beyond.

Anyway, good luck recreating them for your wedding. I hope it works out for you.

 

[icy_jade]

What a beautiful project. Pls keep us posted on its progress.

 

[ennui]

pst, did you know Lady Sarah wore these earrings at her wedding? She wears them a lot, which would suggest a sturdy setting. There's a matching necklace, too.

 

[ennui]

In this photo, you can see a profile shot of the earring ... you can see the pearl sits up from the setting.

I can't believe how much time I've spent on this.

I think this is the necklace that belonged to Queen Mary, but I'm not sure about the drop.

 

[Pretty_Shiny_Things]

In this photo, you can see a profile shot of the earring ... you can see the pearl sits up from the setting.

I can't believe how much time I've spent on this.

I think this is the necklace that belonged to Queen Mary, but I'm not sure about the drop.

Ennui, I love your enthusiasm! I've seen...literally...every picture that's ever been taken of Pss Margaret and Lady Chatto wearing them. I have a sickness in over analyzing everything to the point of analysis paralysis. Besides, I think Pss Margaret was a beautiful woman in her youth, so I never tire of looking at her pictures. If you're interested, there's Flickr account with a lot of her pictures at galas wearing those earrings, but you've got to sort through 2000+ pictures to spot them https://www.flickr.com/photos/21116944@N08/page1/.

Thank you so much to all those who've responded, and I promise to post pictures when the project is completed. So I leave you now with a few of my favorite pictures of Pss Margaret wearing them.

 

[NacreLover]

I found these today on ebay and thought of you.... See the shot of the back. You will have to cut and paste.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/14k-white-gold-6-5-to-7mm-pearl-pave-diamond-earrings-and-pendant-chain-set-/291292531565?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43d2634b6d

 

[ennui]

Another similar pair -- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-10K-Yellow-Gold-Cultured-Pearl-and-Pave-Set-Diamond-Stud-Earrings-/291227133945?pt=US_Fine_Earrings&hash=item43ce7d67f9

This shows what I was thinking for the setting.

 

[Pretty_Shiny_Things]

I found these today on ebay and thought of you.... See the shot of the back. You will have to cut and paste.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/14k-white-gold-6-5-to-7mm-pearl-pave-diamond-earrings-and-pendant-chain-set-/291292531565?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43d2634b6d

Another similar pair -- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-10K-Yellow-Gold-Cultured-Pearl-and-Pave-Set-Diamond-Stud-Earrings-/291227133945?pt=US_Fine_Earrings&hash=item43ce7d67f9

This shows what I was thinking for the setting.

Thank you both for those links! I've pinned them for future reference.