white metals

[lavatea]

I'm just curious what drives the decision when deciding on a white metal for a setting? I would assume silver for cost savings, and platinum for a really nice stone or sentimental piece. But what would drive you to pick palladium over silver or white gold? Or white gold over palladium? Or whatever.

And a secondary question - how do plated and unplated white gold compare both in terms of what exactly is the difference (the plating, I guess, but what is unplated white gold) and their actual colors?

 

[Aoife]

Personally, for me metal choice almost always comes down to what best complements the gemstone. I can't think of any circumstances where I'd choose platinum since I don't care for the color or the patina it develops. I like high karat gold for most things, but I also like the whiteness of high quality silver. I think with silver you have to remember that it is a softer metal, so that may affect when you use it, too.

 

[T L]

Personally, for me metal choice almost always comes down to what best complements the gemstone. I can't think of any circumstances where I'd choose platinum since I don't care for the color or the patina it develops. I like high karat gold for most things, but I also like the whiteness of high quality silver. I think with silver you have to remember that it is a softer metal, so that may affect when you use it, too.

I agree with this. I will just say that I think platinum is a good metal if you have a stone that needs a very secure setting. It is stronger than gold, and that's why many people set white diamonds in it.

However, for me, I'm not a great lover of platinum. I prefer rose or high karat yellow gold for most of my gems.

 

[VapidLapid]

Some people have skin sensitivities to the nickle or other alloying metals used to make white gold. these people can often use palladium alloyed white gold instead.

 

[Fly Girl]

I'm just curious what drives the decision when deciding on a white metal for a setting? I would assume silver for cost savings, and platinum for a really nice stone or sentimental piece. But what would drive you to pick palladium over silver or white gold? Or white gold over palladium?

I selected palladium for one project, to bezel some small pear shaped blue sapphires so I could wear them as earring drops on a pair of platinum and diamond hoops. I like that it is an inert metal, like platinum, but without the weight or the price. This project worked out well. In my case, the palladium quote from a local jeweller was much less than a quote using white gold from an on-line vendor. I would not have picked silver for this rather delicate project. I like silver, but it is a softer metal, and you need more volume to get the strength.

 

[Arcadian]

The stone color usually isn't the driving force for me. I have a little bit of all color gold though mostly white gold, and some silver pieces (though it tends to make me itch) I usually wear white gold, other colors are well.. they're nice, but I also don't tend to wear them all that often, which is probably one of my bigger problems. I'm trying to branch out and have a little bit of everything for all occassions though.



-A

 

[Largosmom]

The colors are slightly different on the different metals. For me it's a mix of price, wearability, and the stone that determines what I go with.

Laura

 

[LD]

This is such an interesting thread and I think it really comes down to personal preference, for example:

1. I love platinum and the way that it wears. The fact that it never has to be plated is an additional bonus.
2. I hate palladium. I tried it for a pair of earrings and despite the jeweller using the whitest mix he could, it feels too grey for me. I believe that this is being developed further so may be ok in the future, but for me, now, it's a no-no.
3. White gold. My metal of choice if I don't use platinum. I love how it doesn't generally interfere with the colour of most gemstones. There are a few exceptions but white gold with accent diamonds looks lovely.
4. Yellow gold. I used to wear nothing but yellow gold but in the past 10 years have done a complete 180 on it. I will still wear y/gold sometimes but there's just something about it that doesn't feel as glamorous to me although I do admit some gemstones look much nicer in y/gold.
5. Mix of yellow/white gold - this is an option that I will sometimes use where I need to have some y/gold and I like the look.
6. Rose gold - I don't like it unless it's to make a pink stone pinker. For me, the metal of a ring should not take over and become the focus. When it's used to create a clashing contrast it offends my eyes (although I know I'm in the minority). I especially hate the coppery rose gold look. I also don't like how it looks on my skin.
7. Silver - like it very much but not the upkeep needed with it.

 

[stepcutgirl]

I chose palladium for my ering because I am allergic to regular white gold, was leery of palladium/white gold and couldn't afford the setting in platinum. My wedding band is platinum. I'm not a huge fan of either really, though I don't dislike them either. On the bottom of both they look all kinds of beat up and scratched after very minimal wear. It's not something that really bothers me but I think should I have to do it all again I would have taken a chance on the palladium white gold...though that would have to be replated, so they all have a down side.

 

[T L]

6. Rose gold - I don't like it unless it's to make a pink stone pinker. For me, the metal of a ring should not take over and become the focus. When it's used to create a clashing contrast it offends my eyes (although I know I'm in the minority). I especially hate the coppery rose gold look. I also don't like how it looks on my skin.

I'm the complete opposite of LD when it comes to rose gold. I love the contrast of it against gems, in particular violet, greenish and bluish gems. More and more of my rings are rose gold, and I do get lots of compliments, and people really love the color of the metal too. It's rare to see rose gold in this day and age, as it was more popular during the mid 20th century.

I love high karat yellow gold, not really 14K, for red and warm family stones. It looks very nice with violet, green and blue stones as well, but for those I prefer rose gold instead. I wouldn't set a red or orange family stone in rose gold, as I think it would blend in with the metal too much. I have a greyish green diamond I wear every day, and it's in rose gold. Out of the rose gold, the grey in the stone was more evident, but I think the rose gold does a great job in downplaying the grey and really bringing out the green. I think using the right metal color can enhance a stone and make it look better than when unset.

I would only set a white diamond or very very highly saturated stone in white metal. I don't have any experience with palladium, but I prefer white gold for colored stones as it is softer than platinum and the setter has to be very careful if using platinum on a gem other than a diamond, or corundum. Softer stones can be damaged by the hardness of platinum and the high heat needed to use it. However, platinum prongs can last a lifetime, and that stone, if set properly, isn't going anywhere. If you frequently wear a gold ring, in any color metal, the prongs do need to be replaced after a period of time, and tightened.

If getting platinum, I would always look for an iridium alloy vs a cobalt alloy. Cobalt is cheap and not as durable as Iridium (another platinum family metal).

 

[lavatea]

Thanks for all of the responses so far. TL, it makes a lot of sense what you said about setting a softer stone in platinum and the potential for damage that could cause. I was just thinking about the durability after it was set.

I'm still fuzzy on some things.

How does palladium compare with platinum? I think someone said that palladium is grayer than white gold, and so is platinum to my eyes. So I wonder how the two compare.

What is unplated white gold? Traditional white gold is just rhodium plated yellow gold, right? How does the color of unplated white gold stack up to rhodium plated white gold? I assume unplated white gold stays white.

As for rose gold - I agree with both LD and TL, ha ha. I think rose gold looks great as an enhancer for pink stones (specifically paler pink stones) and I also think rose gold looks nice with minty stones (bluish or greenish) and also violet tones.

ETA - I should have just searched PS, I guess. Found this article. I'd love more comments from you guys, though.

 

[Arcadian]

You can check this thread.

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/what-does-unplated-white-gold-look-like-pics-please.125262/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/what-does-unplated-white-gold-look-like-pics-please.125262/[/URL]

There's a good picture of the different types of gold there.


-A

 

[lavatea]

I really like the color of the unplated white gold. Is it always a palladium white gold mix?

 

[Michael_E]

I prefer white gold for colored stones as it is softer than platinum and the setter has to be very careful if using platinum on a gem other than a diamond, or corundum. Softer stones can be damaged by the hardness of platinum and the high heat needed to use it. However, platinum prongs can last a lifetime, and that stone, if set properly, isn't going anywhere.

I've been making settings for well over 20 years and I've never seen any form of platinum that I would consider harder than white gold. Platinum alloys are softer than white gold and are just a touch harder than rose gold or silver. Platinum makes an excellent setting for any colored stone, when compared to any white gold, based on it's hardness or ability to damage a stone during setting.

The heat needed to fabricate platinum will damage ANY gem, (including diamonds), very rapidly and so you only set stones after all of the torch work is done when using platinum. If doing repairs on platinum you either remove all stones within a few millimeters of the work area or use a laser.

Platinum prongs may last a lifetime...if the wearer is careful and the design is adequate. The softness of platinum also means that long thin prongs in this metal will bend much easier than they would if made from white gold alloys, so not all designs will work well in platinum. Like anything the material should match the design and the design should be workable for that material. Some designs are born to fail and no material will work well with them over time, so you don't want to get sucked into the fallacy that just because something is made with platinum that it is going to last indefinitely.

I'm not sure where the idea that platinum is hard came from, but it ought to go away. Platinum is very "tough" and this has a specific meaning in that it takes a lot of energy to break it. It does not take a lot of energy to bend it. This toughness is what makes it durable since the metal does not want to be torn apart, but it is not hard at all and actually feels like stiff silly putty when you're working on it.

 

[Michael_E]

How does palladium compare with platinum? I think someone said that palladium is grayer than white gold, and so is platinum to my eyes. So I wonder how the two compare.

High alloy palladium is very white and maybe had a small gray component. It finishes easier, is lighter than platinum and is very nice to work with as well as having good durability in heavy enough sections. I really like working with these alloys, especially since the cost is about the same as that of using white gold. The downside is that very few manufacturers use palladium in stock commercial pieces and so it's pretty much only available in custom settings. How does it compare to platinum...it looks about the same, it's lighter, it's stiffer and it's at least 50% less expensive. On the negative, it's not quite as tough and durable as platinum.

Palladium white gold alloys always seem very gray to me. They are more difficult to finish than more pure palladium, but not quite so difficult as platinum. They have good durability, but the color and extended finishing times, have me recommending other alloys for lower cost white metals.

The newer white gold alloys, that meet low nickel requirements, are my choice for lower cost custom pieces, (and even some stock parts when they're available). Stuller's X-1 alloy has worked really well for me since it's white, stays that way and seems to be tougher than other white gold alloys. These alloys take a really nice polish and do so easily, so are easy to touch up during a cleaning session.

 

[Cind11]

How does palladium compare with platinum? I think someone said that palladium is grayer than white gold, and so is platinum to my eyes. So I wonder how the two compare.

High alloy palladium is very white and maybe had a small gray component. It finishes easier, is lighter than platinum and is very nice to work with as well as having good durability in heavy enough sections. I really like working with these alloys, especially since the cost is about the same as that of using white gold. The downside is that very few manufacturers use palladium in stock commercial pieces and so it's pretty much only available in custom settings. How does it compare to platinum...it looks about the same, it's lighter, it's stiffer and it's at least 50% less expensive. On the negative, it's not quite as tough and durable as platinum.

Palladium white gold alloys always seem very gray to me. They are more difficult to finish than more pure palladium, but not quite so difficult as platinum. They have good durability, but the color and extended finishing times, have me recommending other alloys for lower cost white metals.

The newer white gold alloys, that meet low nickel requirements, are my choice for lower cost custom pieces, (and even some stock parts when they're available). Stuller's X-1 alloy has worked really well for me since it's white, stays that way and seems to be tougher than other white gold alloys. These alloys take a really nice polish and do so easily, so are easy to touch up during a cleaning session.

I have one ring that is palladium and it does look somewhat gray. Another ring I have is white gold alloyed with palladium. That ring actually looks much whiter than the strictly palladium one. I also have a ring that is made from Stuller's X-1 alloy. That one is a nice color I think. I like all three of these rings though because none are rhodium plated. I am finding rhodium to look almost "fakely" bright these days and the thought have having to re-rhodium plate a ring just seems like a big pain.

 

[lavatea]

I have one ring that is palladium and it does look somewhat gray. Another ring I have is white gold alloyed with palladium. That ring actually looks much whiter than the strictly palladium one. I also have a ring that is made from Stuller's X-1 alloy. That one is a nice color I think. I like all three of these rings though because none are rhodium plated. I am finding rhodium to look almost "fakely" bright these days and the thought have having to re-rhodium plate a ring just seems like a big pain.

Do you have links to your rings? I'm working on a project with Julia, and I was originally leaning toward a mainly yellow gold ring but have since changed to a white look. I may end up going silver for cost savings but would prefer not to as it will be an almost daily wear ring. So now I'm very interested in these three metal choices and would love to compare the colors just on these three (palladium, palladium white gold, and Stuller's x-1).

Thanks!

 

[Cind11]

The ring that is white gold alloyed with palladium is on Page 80 of the Catch all thread-or better yet show us in colored stones. It is the ruby ring by Ann McKay. The ring that I had made with the X-1 should I hope come up if you search tsavorite Cind11. I think that thread is entitled "My tsavorite ring". The other ring that is palladium you can see on Julia Kay Taylor's website (her website not her Etsy site) It is somewhere under rings and is an aquamarine asscher with yellow diamonds on the shank. Hope you can find them.

 

[Largosmom]

Here are some photos of the metals I have, will post several photos. I don't have a Stuller X-1 metal.

In real life, the Palladium/WG alloy is darker in color...some say more grey...I see it as more "steely" in color, like a sewing needle.

Left to right:

White gold; Palladium w/ White Gold alloyed; Sterling Silver; Sterling Silver


Different order and selection, again left to right:

White Gold; Palladium w/ WG; White Gold looking yellowish with rhodium rubbed off; White Gold; Sterling Silver; Sterling Silver


Last, one more overall photo...The blue zircon is the one from Julia Key Taylor in the Palladium with White Gold, and you can tell which are the silver rings.

 

[lavatea]

Thanks for the photos, cind11 and Largosmom. Very helpful.