What is the process of having a ring made?

[Rothschild55]

Hi Everyone,
I am really new to colored stones, but am loving all the information I've been reading. I am interested in having a ring made next spring and wondered what the process is to do so. I really like the rings I've seen from David Klass, Brilliantly Engaged, etc. i haven't found my stone yet (loved the pink tourmaline from The Gem Trader, but wasn't the lucky one... Anyway, I figured I would ask how to go about it from the CS forum
Thank You!

 

[ennui]

I've never had a ring custom made, so I look forward to reading the responses.

My guess would be, find a goldsmith you like and trust. There are some fabulous artisans in small communities.

 

[Acinom]

1. The appearance and size of your stone is the starting point.
2. Look for inspiration rings
3. Write down your requirements (preferably based on the inspiration ring or rings), including budget, everyday wear or not (this also depends on the stone), what alterations would you want compared to the inspiration ring.
4. Look for vendors that can make the style you are looking for and ask for quotes. It is advicable to look for vendors that made jewelry in the style you want before.
5. Choose a vendor and discuss the details. Please note that some vendors are willing to have a lot of back and forth during this process and are willing to make what you like. While others stick to their own style. Never put yourself in the chair of the designer unless you are a designer!!! Choose a vendor only if you trust his/her aesthetic eye.
6. Establish the design (some will use a work order others will use mail or a personal meeting to finetine the details (ringsize, material used, design, sidestones used etc)
7. Vendors who make handforged jewelry like Victor Canera and Leon Mege will start the process and you will see it when it's ready. I know that Leon sends a photo of the layout with your main stone and side stones during the process.
CAD/CAST vendors like David Klass, BE, CvB etc will now make a computer drawing with the exact measurement but usually without melee or milgrain shown (some vendors like Marc Williams make a handmade impression instead of a exact drawing). Please note that the quality of the drawing can depend on the software used and certain details may appear bulkier than in real life.
8. You approve the computer drawing or have the vendor apply some alterations.
9. Some vendors will show you a wax model, allowing you to see the ring in 3D wax. In this stage alterations are still possible, but try to avoid it as a lot of work has been done already.
10. The rough cast is made
11. Finishing touch... Some vendors will allow you to determine in this stage whether you want milgrain or engraving applied.
12. The stone is set and you will receive a vendor photo of the piece.
13. You collect the ring or it is shipped to you. Choose a secure and insured way of shipping and the possibility to track the package.

 

[Acinom]

important:
- choose a designer that you trust and who made the style you are after before
- choose a designer who has experience in handling colored stones as sone might be chipped easily during setting
- discuss insurance
- discuss the process before commiting yourself: if you want a say in every part of the process, don't work with a designer who will not allow that
- make sure you understand the costs
- ensure there is a click between you and the designer: during the quote phase you might already see it... Is a designer friendly and fast, does he ask good questions etc.

Please note that every designer has his/her own process. Some might work for you and some not. Not every designer is willing to make progress pics.

This was based on my still limited experience as an overseas buyer. Let me know if you have any questions. During the CAD phase, a lot of PSers ask for advice here on the board. This can be helpful as it helps you to see things.

 

[Acinom]

Some illustrations

 

[Acinom]

Yet more...

 

[dk168]

What Acinom said, except I started off with inspirations long before I purchased any CSs for setting.

DK

 

[Acinom]

What Acinom said, except I started off with inspirations long before I purchased any CSs for setting.

DK

+1: it's great to have a vision even before you have bought the stone. It's also helpful for the designer if you can describe a certain style, like 'sleek and modern' or 'art deco', 'romantic vintage' etc etc. It also helps you in deciding whether you want vintage looking single cut melee and milgrain versus a sleek and polished finish.

I also wanted to add:
- Certain CAD's can be deceptive if you are inexperienced. Personally I prefer CAD's with actual measurements.
- Some vendors send wax models to your home address to allow you to determine whether you like the measurements.
- Certain detailing is preferably done by hand, like engraving. Discuss this with your jeweller.
- A custom can look different from your ideal when you see it in real life. A good jeweller will do magic and will exceed your expectations. It helps if you are open to (hopefully pleasant) surprises. If not, don't go the custom route.
- Colored stones sometimes have a considerable depth that may determine the appearance of your ring. Your ring might end up looking like a skyscraper. Before you buy a stone, plaese keep this in mind.
- Study the preferred vendor list in the Sticky section and choose a reliable vendor with good reviews on PS.
- Study the colored stones thread in the Sticky section to learn about durability and unique features of stones.

 

[Rothschild55]

Ennui - thank you for the information about goldsmiths - I will ask some friends if they know of some reputable smiths in town

DianeM - I hadn't considered that some designers wouldn't utilize a client's stones. great information-

Acinom - Wow! Thank you so much for the indepth information! I feel a lot more confident about approaching a designer. I love your aesthetic - There is always some detail: stone, milgrain, setting, etc., that I love about your rings. My favorites are your amethyst by BE, blue-green tourmaline from Gene and bypass ring from David Klass! I am really looking forward to seeing your Superpower ring completed

DK - I can't wait to see your new Aquamarine stone (6 ct) to be cut. - the Aquamarine ring you just had made is lovely

I am learning so much from this group and truly appreciate everyone's input and generosity in sharing information! What a great community

 

[minousbijoux]

1. The appearance and size of your stone is the starting point.
2. Look for inspiration rings
3. Write down your requirements (preferably based on the inspiration ring or rings), including budget, everyday wear or not (this also depends on the stone), what alterations would you want compared to the inspiration ring.
4. Look for vendors that can make the style you are looking for and ask for quotes. It is advicable to look for vendors that made jewelry in the style you want before.
5. Choose a vendor and discuss the details. Please note that some vendors are willing to have a lot of back and forth during this process and are willing to make what you like. While others stick to their own style. Never put yourself in the chair of the designer unless you are a designer!!! Choose a vendor only if you trust his/her aesthetic eye.
6. Establish the design (some will use a work order others will use mail or a personal meeting to finetine the details (ringsize, material used, design, sidestones used etc)
7. Vendors who make handforged jewelry like Victor Canera and Leon Mege will start the process and you will see it when it's ready. I know that Leon sends a photo of the layout with your main stone and side stones during the process.
CAD/CAST vendors like David Klass, BE, CvB etc will now make a computer drawing with the exact measurement but usually without melee or milgrain shown (some vendors like Marc Williams make a handmade impression instead of a exact drawing). Please note that the quality of the drawing can depend on the software used and certain details may appear bulkier than in real life.
8. You approve the computer drawing or have the vendor apply some alterations.
9. Some vendors will show you a wax model, allowing you to see the ring in 3D wax. In this stage alterations are still possible, but try to avoid it as a lot of work has been done already.
10. The rough cast is made
11. Finishing touch... Some vendors will allow you to determine in this stage whether you want milgrain or engraving applied.
12. The stone is set and you will receive a vendor photo of the piece.
13. You collect the ring or it is shipped to you. Choose a secure and insured way of shipping and the possibility to track the package.

This is a great primer, Acinom, and will really help people like me who are just thinking about custom work.

 

[lilmosun]

Need to bookmark this in case I ever have the courage to try. I have a hard enough time matching stones with already designed settings but so admire the many custom rings here.