Modern Halo spinel ring or Antique Russian FCD ring?

[chrono]

Given that the two projects are of approximately similar costs, which would you go for?

Project 1:
The "infamous" 4 carat lavender blue to purple oval spinel which measures close to 10 x 8 mm. I could set this one the traditional North/South way but have been toying with an East/West design. The design will be a modification and simplification of the Leon Mege yellow FCD ring shown below, without the "collar" and only a single row of pave. I am unsure whether to keep it a split shank or to modify it into a single row of pave.

 

[chrono]

The stone in question shown both NS and EW.

 

[chrono]

Project 2:
This one is simpler on paper as it has no melees whatsoever but the metal work requires a soft touch, where every nuance of curvature makes a huge difference as to the flow and how "alive" the ring design will feel. As of this point, I am unsure if I will add the buttercup flower petals around the FCD to better bring out their colours. The design will be a combination of the two below.

 

[chrono]

The FCDs in question are shown below. I do not have the correct number of FCDs to match either design nor are they all rounds which presents another level of challenge. Strangely enough, they might also be a tad too large for both designs.
A purplish pink oval FCD measuring 4 x 3 mm
An orangish yellow pear FCD measuring 6 x 4 mm
Two very small blush (almost colourless) round FCDs measuring possibly 3 mm?

 

[VapidLapid]

Well they are both very nice so it is a tough choice. I would say if the spinel then definitely east west, lose the collar keep the two rows of split. Do you have already a genius goldsmith who can put the other design together for you?

 

[SB621]

Chrono, I just emailed you but I will sum up.

Pros and Cons for Halo Ring:
-I think the expense for halos rings will continue to rise. I might knock this off the list to just get it done before the cost of a good halo is through the room. I would look into quotes from ERD, JbEG and HM for this one to keep it around your budget.

Pros and Cons for Victoria Ring:
-I do think recreating the buttercups will be expensive and hard to CAST. I would also have trouble paying the same amount for this ring where no diamonds are involved! I think SK would do a gorgeous rendition of this however, and he (when called) can be great to work with on budget where micropave is not involved.

I would honestly be sorely tempted to do the Victorian ring as that project calls to me, however due to how expensive halos and micro pave have increased over the last 3 years I would probably get that one done first.

 

[chrono]

Well they are both very nice so it is a tough choice. I would say if the spinel then definitely east west, lose the collar keep the two rows of split. Do you have already a genius goldsmith who can put the other design together for you?

I am leaning towards the spinel set EW but every time I see the antique design and think of those little FCDs, my mind waffles. I did get quotes from 3 benches for the second design, where I am confident of 2 who can pull it off, but the price is very high for what is essentially an all metal design. I am unwilling to spend that much for it.

 

[chrono]

Pros and Cons for Halo Ring:
-I think the expense for halos rings will continue to rise. I might knock this off the list to just get it done before the cost of a good halo is through the room. I would look into quotes from ERD, JbEG and HM for this one to keep it around your budget.

Pros and Cons for Victoria Ring:
-I do think recreating the buttercups will be expensive and hard to CAST. I would also have trouble paying the same amount for this ring where no diamonds are involved! I think SK would do a gorgeous rendition of this however, and he (when called) can be great to work with on budget where micropave is not involved.

I would honestly be sorely tempted to do the Victorian ring as that project calls to me, however due to how expensive halos and micro pave have increased over the last 3 years I would probably get that one done first.

Thanks for your response, SB. It pains me to see that halo settings have nearly doubled in price. Why on earth are they so darned expensive these days? As I am the cheapo type when it comes to settings, CAD/cast is good enough for me. Is JbEG cast or hand forged? I know that HM is hand forged. Is IDJ not advisable for something like this?

If I remove the buttercups, I think Project 2 will be easier to fabricate, pricing will come down significantly and my selection of benches will open up significantly. I may have to eliminate the buttercups anyway since adding that for a 6 x 4 mm stone is going to make the ring huge and I have 4 stones to be used altogether which needs to fit on a size 4.5 finger.

I agree that the Victorian design calls out to me more but pricing is my issue at the moment (the design is ridiculously expensive and halo pricing is also at an all time high). I am loathe to spend $$$ on settings.

 

[peacechick]

I would vote for the halo project as the other project seems not totally formed yet? Perhaps if you give the ideas more time to marinate, you would have new inspirations, or new stones would come along to join the ensemble. I also wonder about using those blush stones with the brighter yellow and pink-- I think they would come off as lackluster, which would be a pity as they're FCDs

 

[chrono]

I would vote for the halo project as the other project seems not totally formed yet? Perhaps if you give the ideas more time to marinate, you would have new inspirations, or new stones would come along to join the ensemble. I also wonder about using those blush stones with the brighter yellow and pink-- I think they would come off as lackluster, which would be a pity as they're FCDs

Actually, neither projects are fully formed yet in my mind but they are at a stage where they can be pushed into a final design if needed. Both designs have been marinating for more than a year with little to no further progress and I am doubtful of adding more FCDs into the mix. Those little buggers are $$$$$. The blush pinks are merely accent stones to be used in the leaf so they are of little consequence to me other than my not needing to add other diamond melees and I have no wish to use colourless diamonds in this particular design. The star of the show is the pink and yellow only.

 

[JulieN]

Gorgeous, both of them.

 

[SB621]

Pros and Cons for Halo Ring:
-I think the expense for halos rings will continue to rise. I might knock this off the list to just get it done before the cost of a good halo is through the room. I would look into quotes from ERD, JbEG and HM for this one to keep it around your budget.

Pros and Cons for Victoria Ring:
-I do think recreating the buttercups will be expensive and hard to CAST. I would also have trouble paying the same amount for this ring where no diamonds are involved! I think SK would do a gorgeous rendition of this however, and he (when called) can be great to work with on budget where micropave is not involved.

I would honestly be sorely tempted to do the Victorian ring as that project calls to me, however due to how expensive halos and micro pave have increased over the last 3 years I would probably get that one done first.

Thanks for your response, SB. It pains me to see that halo settings have nearly doubled in price. Why on earth are they so darned expensive these days? As I am the cheapo type when it comes to settings, CAD/cast is good enough for me. Is JbEG cast or hand forged? I know that HM is hand forged. Is IDJ not advisable for something like this?

If I remove the buttercups, I think Project 2 will be easier to fabricate, pricing will come down significantly and my selection of benches will open up significantly. I may have to eliminate the buttercups anyway since adding that for a 6 x 4 mm stone is going to make the ring huge and I have 4 stones to be used altogether which needs to fit on a size 4.5 finger.

I agree that the Victorian design calls out to me more but pricing is my issue at the moment (the design is ridiculously expensive and halo pricing is also at an all time high). I am loathe to spend $$$ on settings.

Argh and I meant **Roof not room!

I think CAST is fine for both of these projects though hand forged would probably be better for the victorian if you can swing it. If they are going to charge you XX.XX for the ring CAST and hand forged isn't that much more I would probably splurge. The micropave in hand forged will probably double your budget

I believe JbEG is cast and their halo's run between 2-3k pending metal type. I think they are on parr with WF, with ERD being at the top of my list for CAD/ CAST halo vendors. I think IDJ does an OK job. Being that this is not an ering I would recommend getting a quote from them. I think their pave is lacking in a lot of ways compared to ERD or JbEG however if you are on a budget and this isn't a project you want to spend a fortune on I would get a quote from them as they do a decent job. Their pave isn't bad, just not nearly as elegant and refined as some of the other vendors that I have seen first hand.

And yes it does hurt that settings are now sooo expensive. I remember on of my first custom projects was just over 2k and now that is probably extremely cheap for custom...and that was just 4 or 5 years ago

 

[NKOTB]

Well, I'm being totally selfish here, but I'd like to see my holy grail stone set! Then I'd get to see more pictures!!

 

[T L]

Spinel!!

 

[JewelPhenom]

Spinel for no reason other than I love the color.

 

[JLW05]

I vote for the spinel. IDJ is just OK IMHO. Also, if you are planning on contacting IDJ in the very near future, they are on closed for vacation for the next two or so weeks although they might be answering e-mail inquiries.

 

[chrono]

JulieN,
What, no vote for either one?

SB,
No worries, I understood what you meant. I do think anything hand forged, no matter the design is going to cost close to 2x the cast version so I can just toss that idea out right now.

NKOTB, TL and JewelP,
Looks like the votes are swayed in your favour too. All right, I'll go get quotes on this this week. At the very least, at the completion of this project, you'll get far better glamour shots from the jeweller than I can every hope to get.

JLW05,
Your input on IDJ is also helpful and sealed the deal for me on who I should contact. The heads up on their vacation schedule is much appreciated as well.

So, it looks like I could potentially get 4 quotes for the spinel project: WF, ERD, JbEG and HM. Does anyone own items from at least 2 out of the 4 vendors and is able to comment on the quality of the diamond melees? Although I might be budget conscious, I am still particular about the finish, flow and cut of the diamonds used. I'd rather to pay a few hundred more if that's what it takes, but not more than $1K. This spinel deserves a setting worthy of its beauty.

 

[pinkjewel]

Well, it looks like you've made your decision, but I voted for the Art Nouveau ring. We all know I love FCDs , and your intense pink is gorgeous!! I'd love to see this used in a unique piece. My second reason (and I guess this is purely selfish) is I also have the same ring (top one) in my inspiration folder and would love to see something similar created. I guess I buck the popular vote as I like to see the unique and unusual pieces of jewelry created. I don't know who you contacted with this design in mind, but if I was going to try to recreate something similar, I was going to contact Xidni on Etsy. I don't know how much custom (if any) he does, but his designs are geared towards Art Nouveau and his detail work looks amazing! I thought he'd be the perfect artist to talk with about this type of project. I know whichever ring you decide to make will be gorgeous!

 

[chrono]

PinkJewel,
Thanks for chiming in with your opinion. I love the FCDs and like you, this is a strong reason why I am excited about the antique design. I take it you have not dealt with Xidni from Etsy yet? Has anyone?

 

[pinkjewel]

No, I haven't bought anything from him yet- although I have been tempted!! I do remember someone posting about a dragonfly pendant they purchased from him and it was beautiful! Very detailed!! That's originally how I discovered his shop on Etsy.

 

[Ashleigh]

So, it looks like I could potentially get 4 quotes for the spinel project: WF, ERD, JbEG and HM. Does anyone own items from at least 2 out of the 4 vendors and is able to comment on the quality of the diamond melees? Although I might be budget conscious, I am still particular about the finish, flow and cut of the diamonds used. I'd rather to pay a few hundred more if that's what it takes, but not more than $1K. This spinel deserves a setting worthy of its beauty.

Looking forward to seeing your halo.

 

[packrat]

I hope you do the spinel!

 

[Rosebloom]

JulieN,
What, no vote for either one?

SB,
No worries, I understood what you meant. I do think anything hand forged, no matter the design is going to cost close to 2x the cast version so I can just toss that idea out right now.

NKOTB, TL and JewelP,
Looks like the votes are swayed in your favour too. All right, I'll go get quotes on this this week. At the very least, at the completion of this project, you'll get far better glamour shots from the jeweller than I can every hope to get.

JLW05,
Your input on IDJ is also helpful and sealed the deal for me on who I should contact. The heads up on their vacation schedule is much appreciated as well.

So, it looks like I could potentially get 4 quotes for the spinel project: WF, ERD, JbEG and HM. Does anyone own items from at least 2 out of the 4 vendors and is able to comment on the quality of the diamond melees? Although I might be budget conscious, I am still particular about the finish, flow and cut of the diamonds used. I'd rather to pay a few hundred more if that's what it takes, but not more than $1K. This spinel deserves a setting worthy of its beauty.

Holy cannoli that spinel is incredible!!!! I've been enchanted by your FCD idea since you first posted, but really, you must set that spinel!

Usually I'm good with all the acronyms but I'm blanking - who's HM? And are you hoping to keep the entire setting under $1k? That could be a tall order. If you find a place that can accommodate that budget please do share. (Also, I'm pretty sure WF isn't setting colored stones that they didn't source anymore).

 

[chrono]

My budget for both settings are $3K apiece and am willing to pay more for a quality piece but not more than additional $1K. Of course anything under $3K is preferred. HM refers to Hannah Maytal. Whiteflash will set outside stones on a case by case basis and has emailed me that my stone falls into their exception category. They have done excellent work for me at very competitive prices so I'd like to give them a fair chance.

 

[alice87]

Since second design (both rings) looks so much Russian made, i would just find a russian jeweler. It would be much easier because some if them may carry this design ir even order it at the factory. Russian rings are typically on a smaller side with thinner bands, but solid. Quality is good. The design is very simple and very common. 3k for such ring if it is made without diamonds sounds exorbitant to me.

 

[minousbijoux]

Miss Chrono: I wish I could help, but I know that whatever you choose it will be beautiful and hopefully, the other will not be far behind. The one thing I do have an opinion on is the buttercup leaves. I know this would be changing the design a bit, but I would lose the buttercup leaves for something more delicate - would it be changing the design too much to have smaller tendrils, or delicate leaves? This is probably blasphemy in the design world, but I find the design to be light, spacious and ephemeral; when the buttercups (or whatever you call them) are added, it ruins the affect for me as I find them heavy and inconsistent with the rest of the ring. Does that make sense?

 

[MollyMalone]

I'm another who's in love with that spinel, the color is swoon-worthy!

(and I'll cast a vote for keeping the split shank; I like the way a split shank setting flows into, or "embraces", an oval stone)

 

[blingymo]

I just saw this thread [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/antique-demantoid-garnet-ring.190530/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/antique-demantoid-garnet-ring.190530/[/URL] and then your thread. There is a site linked in - maybe it would be less to buy something from him and have it reset with your stones? The ring this poster bought is so similar to the Russian rings you posted.

ETA: Now that I am perusing the site, I see your inspiration ring!

 

[peacechick]

I think the point though is to showcase Chrono's gorgeous FCDs, so it has to be custom designed around that lovely pear and oval. I doubt anyone can just find an antique setting to fit those stones, so it has to be a OOAK. But I think it will be a very satisfying project in the end

 

[FrekeChild]

For anyone interested, Maytal Hannah's website:

http://maytalhannah.com/